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Not particularly a question so much as I need an opinion on feasibility. I'm looking into stereo options for my RX7 and nothing is really going to blend in with the rest of the interior of the car. One option I'm tossing around at the moment that to me seems somewhat doable is gutting out the cassette deck and putting in something with bluetooth capability and ideally usb support in its place. Something like this sort of fits the bill, it has pin out capability for buttons that I can tie in to the cassette deck's switches and covers the basic features. Although I'd honestly like to get bluetooth phone capability covered at the same time. https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Module-Player-decoder-display/dp/B00KW0GASE The big issues I see from the very small amount of research I've done is that Mazda has very little documentation for how the whole system works and its going to be difficult getting the audio to switch from the radio to whatever is in the cassette deck on demand. It's probably not going to be a problem if its audio level based and would be less of an issue if I don't go for something with any phone functions and I could get away with just putting a switch into a button, but with a phone function I'm going to need something to cut audio from the radio and let me know somebody is calling. F1DriverQuidenBerg fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 07:26
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If it was revving higher (you'd notice it on the tachometer - aka RPM gauge), but not moving faster, then..... that transmission may be done.  You get an audible alert (3 chimes) when the reduced power light comes on, the same chime you get when the low fuel warning comes on. A "slipping" transmission is the engine revving higher with no corresponding increase in speed (in fact you may even slow down). Slipping creates a ton of heat, which destroys both the fluid and the clutch packs in the transmission. The code you mentioned for the solenoid.. that solenoid helps control hydraulic pressure inside the transmission. Basically, if the pressure isn't right, you get a lot of weird poo poo, the most obvious symptom is a slipping transmission. The transmission just being worn out would slip as well (since the clutches in it will be worn out), but with the miles you suggested you have, I really doubt it's worn out unless it's seen a lot of abuse.I mean... I like my Ion, and I've put nearly 100k on it myself, but if I was looking at replacing the transmission, I'd probably be replacing the car unless I got a transmission really cheap. And yours is a bit of a unicorn, in that the only transmission that will directly replace the one you have is from a 03-04 Ion Sedan. The automatic from the 02-03 Vue may work, but the gearing is likely different (which may or may not piss off the computer that handles the transmission). 05-07 Ions (sedan and coupe) could use a transmission from late model Cavaliers, Grand Ams, Aleros, Cobalts, etc, basically anything with the Ecotec engine family and the GM 4T45E transaxle (which is a whole lot of poo poo), so long as the gearing is similar. Yours also requires a specific fluid that I can almost guarantee Jiffy Lube didn't use if you ever had them flush it or do a transmission fluid change. There are third party fluids out that claim to be compatible, but Jiffy Lube likely fed it some flavor of Dexron (which most GM automatics will happily work with, but your transmission isn't a GM transmission). The proper fluid for yours is basically the same fluid that many Toyotas and some Nissans use. GM claims the fluid is "lifetime" (which translates into "will it get out of warranty without it being changed? y/n"). Jiffy Lube and pretty much every other quick lube place will use a universal fluid of some type that never really plays nice with all transmissions. Some places may use one fluid for domestics and one for imports, which usually works okay until you get a "domestic" with an "import" transmission.  For what it's worth, the reduced power light looks like the check engine light, except it's a little smaller and has an arrow pointing down in the middle. It should light up briefly when you turn the key on without starting the car. It's basically to the right of the oil pressure warning light, except the oil light is within the tachometer face. If you were looking at the tach, you would definitely notice it. I've had it light up once on my car, when I hosed up installing the throttle body and created a huge vacuum leak. tl;dr I'd guess it got the wrong fluid at some point and is finally showing how unhappy it is, or the solenoid is hosed. Hopefully just the solenoid or maybe even an intermittent connection in the harness/plugs tl;dr2 if you know the rest of the car is in great shape, it's worth fixing - the rest of the car is solid, its main Achilles heels are the automatic in the 03-04 coupes and the timing chain tensioner on 03-05 models. But if the rest of the car is rough, I'd probably ditch it randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 07:43
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If the solenoid is shot the quote I got was for a few hundred. If the engine mount is shot that'll be a few hundred more. I already had the transmission break on me once. If there were a local mechanic I could count on that'd feel reasonable. But the local GM dealership kept missing things with the car even before the current problem so I'm not confident in them. And a local mechanic that my dad swears by missed the problem(s) too. I still haven't replaced the shocks yet which will be a few hundred more... I need to renew the registration in two weeks as it is so I think it's time to sell the car, donate it, or trade it in. Edit: Is there a good way to sell a car where you know there are problems and don't know how expensive the fixes will be? Edit 2: I found a site that said just list all the problems and let the person know up front HERE IS EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW. So I wrote about 1,200 words about how it was driven, maintained, accident history, the current problems, minor annoyances, and how much the parts should cost for the important things and the nice to get this fixed things. RandomPauI fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 08:37
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:The only button is for the bleed/relief valve like in this photo - which, incidentally, doesn't release fuel when pressed even on my dad's running engine. That's another thing that confused me... maybe it's the wrong shrader valve fitting; even if the gauge is busted shouldn't the bleed valve work? I had this happen to me on my el cheapo harbor freight gauge and when I looked in the fitting on the gauge I discovered that the part to depress the pin in the Schrader valve had fallen out and disappeared. Nothing to depress the pin = no flow to the gauge.
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Oct 7, 2016 13:50
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ionn posted:It's water! And unless you have pure water in your radiator (which you shouldn't) and it leaks (which it if so would do way more of when driving than when parked), it can really only be AC condensation. If you were to leave a glass of water out overnight, would it in any way change appearance to seem non-fresh? A few months ago, I went to the garage to see a big giant puddle of liquid under my car. Right under where the right headlight was. Was I apparently leaking headlight fluid?! Turns out my neighbor had a pipe leak and it was water dripping onto my car from the garage ceiling
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Oct 7, 2016 15:05
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Mak0rz posted:Okay, I'll take note of it if I see it again, thanks! Checked again this morning: same size puddle, same color, and appeared just inches in front of where a passenger would put their feet. Definitely A/C water and now I feel dumb for worrying about it! 
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Oct 7, 2016 16:09
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You being that observant and worrying about anything leaking out of your car makes you better informed and more intelligent than approximately 99% of drivers, so don't feel too bad about it. Most people will just drive it till the wheels fall off or it stops moving, disregarding any and all leaks, horrible noises, shaking, smells, and warning lamps, then bitch about how it cost them $3k to have it fixed when it would have been a $100 repair if they hadn't just kept beating on it.The Royal Nonesuch posted:This is a stupid question because I feel especially dumb asking it: RENIX right? Check your ballast resistor, it's on the driver fender somewhere in the engine compartment, big white ceramic bar. Try just hooking the two wires together instead of through the resistor. If it's not that, who knows, I'm useless at RENIX as can be seen from me taking days to diagnose my own no-start.
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Oct 7, 2016 16:36
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Anyone ever shipped large car parts like a bumper? What service did you use?
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Oct 7, 2016 16:59
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SimonCat posted:Anyone ever shipped large car parts like a bumper? What service did you use?
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Oct 7, 2016 17:50
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The shiny coating on fasteners is Zinc, right? I should grind that off before welding, right (or just hold my breath)?
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Oct 7, 2016 17:52
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Safety Dance posted:The shiny coating on fasteners is Zinc, right? I should grind that off before welding, right (or just hold my breath)? It's usually the goldish color, IIRC. Yes, definitely grind before welding.
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Oct 7, 2016 18:13
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Larrymer posted:It's usually the goldish color, IIRC. Yes, definitely grind before welding. What about the regular silver colored fasteners you find at a hardware store?
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Oct 7, 2016 18:15
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SCA Enthusiast posted:I had this happen to me on my el cheapo harbor freight gauge and when I looked in the fitting on the gauge I discovered that the part to depress the pin in the Schrader valve had fallen out and disappeared. Nothing to depress the pin = no flow to the gauge. I'm thinking something like this. I might try the loaner from AutoZone today and see if it chooches. kastein posted:RENIX right? Check your ballast resistor, it's on the driver fender somewhere in the engine compartment, big white ceramic bar. Try just hooking the two wires together instead of through the resistor. Yeah, I jumpered that and tried a different fuel pump relay with no luck. Fuel will pour out the line if I disconnect it and try to start, but it might not be enough pressure (31psi) - it doesn't seem as strong a spray as last time I did that. There's spark coming off the coil according to my tester so I know it's not the CPS. I also replaced the NSS because I had a new spare. edit: just unhooked the fuel line at the fuel filter and cranked, now I'm getting no fuel at all. Looks like it's time to order a new pump. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 18:26
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Safety Dance posted:What about the regular silver colored fasteners you find at a hardware store? They they bright silver or dull silver/gray? If its the latter they're probably galvanized.
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Oct 7, 2016 19:42
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What is on bright silver hardware, in that case? It can't just be really polished steel, can it?
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Oct 7, 2016 19:53
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A bright almost blueish looking fastener is usually electrogalvanized with zinc. Dull grey is hot-dip galvanized with zinc, it's the same poo poo just thicker and globbier. Gold colored is usually zinc chromate. Do not weld on that till you clean it off, zinc fumes are nowhere near as bad as chromate fumes. Some bolts (AN type aircraft/military, and some import stuff, and some older american stuff) is cadplate, which you really don't want to gently caress with at all. TBH, just wear a proper respirator while welding and use a fume extractor. The more I read about the stuff in welding fumes, the more I come to the conclusion that they're all really bad for you, it's just a matter of how horrible they are. Most welding wire has manganese in it IIRC, which when you inhale enough of it, will give you manganism. Manganism is often misdiagnosed as Parkinsons due to similar symptoms, but don't worry, it's every bit as incurable.
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Oct 7, 2016 20:31
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Safety Dance posted:What is on bright silver hardware, in that case? It can't just be really polished steel, can it? If it says "bright finish" on it and doesn't list any metals other than steel, then it is (probably) just polished steel. If you're worried, buy one and mark it up with a screwdriver or hacksaw or something -- it should be bright all the way through.
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Oct 7, 2016 20:54
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SimonCat posted:Anyone ever shipped large car parts like a bumper? What service did you use? I bought a chromed bumper off Amazon last week. It came wrapped in plastic and a cardboard box. Prime.
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Oct 7, 2016 21:06
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I bought a chromed bumper off Amazon last week. It came wrapped in plastic and a cardboard box. Prime. I've got a bumper to ship, UPS wants $80 to wrap it and $160 to send if from Iowa to Wisconsin. Given that it's only worth about $100, it's hard to get a buyer, so I'm looking for a cheaper option.
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Oct 7, 2016 21:37
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RandomPauI posted:If the solenoid is shot the quote I got was for a few hundred. If the engine mount is shot that'll be a few hundred more. I already had the transmission break on me once. If there were a local mechanic I could count on that'd feel reasonable. But the local GM dealership kept missing things with the car even before the current problem so I'm not confident in them. And a local mechanic that my dad swears by missed the problem(s) too. I still haven't replaced the shocks yet which will be a few hundred more... A few hundred really isn't bad to get in and replace the solenoid, since the transmission has to come apart a bit. I can see why you'd want to sell it, justifying getting caught up on maintenance and repairs on an older car can be difficult. If you do go through with selling it, expect to get lowballed to hell when you disclose everything (but I'm the kind of person who would disclose everything too). If you have Carmax in your area, take it by for an appraisal - they're usually pretty fair in their offers, and you don't have to buy a car from them to get their offer.
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Oct 8, 2016 00:42
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SimonCat posted:I've got a bumper to ship, UPS wants $80 to wrap it and $160 to send if from Iowa to Wisconsin. Given that it's only worth about $100, it's hard to get a buyer, so I'm looking for a cheaper option. Meet them in Dubuque?
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Oct 8, 2016 02:57
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Taking a quick temperature here: What is the general attitude around here regarding restomod projects that would use essentially only the body of the car and replace nearly everything else on an older muscle car? Should I bother posting a project thread or not? I checked the tracking thread but they all seemed to be period correct restorations and/or just engine swaps which is not really what I am starting.
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Oct 8, 2016 05:26
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I dunno it sure sounds to me like you're doing Insane stuff of the Automotive variety. I mean, if you're like stuffing a PT Cruiser under a GTO Judge body or something dumb like that then gtfo, but I'd read that thread from the sound of it. We are not the Corvette forums where putting on more aggressive tires than is period-correct is considered sacrilegious. 
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Oct 8, 2016 05:31
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Sounds like I'm in the right place then. I'll try to get better photos and post a thread tomorrow. In a nutshell I have (some of) a 66 Chevelle that I want to be able to drive comfortably and ultimately run in the Silver State Classic Challenge at increasingly unwise speeds.
BitBasher fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Oct 8, 2016 |
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Oct 8, 2016 05:35
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BitBasher posted:Taking a quick temperature here: What is the general attitude around here regarding restomod projects that would use essentially only the body of the car and replace nearly everything else on an older muscle car? Should I bother posting a project thread or not? I checked the tracking thread but they all seemed to be period correct restorations and/or just engine swaps which is not really what I am starting. Restomod projects are pretty badass in my book. 
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Oct 8, 2016 06:01
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BitBasher posted:Taking a quick temperature here: What is the general attitude around here regarding restomod projects that would use essentially only the body of the car and replace nearly everything else on an older muscle car? Should I bother posting a project thread or not? I checked the tracking thread but they all seemed to be period correct restorations and/or just engine swaps which is not really what I am starting.
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Oct 8, 2016 06:39
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BitBasher posted:Sounds like I'm in the right place then. I'll try to get better photos and post a thread tomorrow. In a nutshell I have (some of) a 66 Chevelle that I want to be able to drive comfortably and ultimately run in the Silver State Classic Challenge at increasingly unwise speeds. [Desire to know more intensifies]
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Oct 8, 2016 08:42
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I loving hate scrivets. It seems like if they are even a bit worn you are hosed. And they are a massive pain to remove without unscrewing first. Maybe superglue something to the rivets that are hosed?
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Oct 8, 2016 08:56
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kastein posted:Given that it's off something carbureted and USDM, it's almost certainly an SAE thread. M6 is about 1/4". I'd guess 1/4-20 if it's coarse thread, 1/4-28 if it's fine thread. You really should measure the thread pitch and diameter if you have a chance though. It could also be #12, #14 (very uncommon these days but still available), or a number of other sizes. Thanks for your help. Unfortunately I'm an idiot. It was close to M8. I realised this after making a trip to grab the nuts. I found an M8 with a flogged out thread that fit nicely. I swapped out the carburettor today anyway.
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Oct 8, 2016 10:03
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Restomod projects are pretty badass in my book. Same. Also pretty common and well accepted on the Corvette forums, since so many of them were basically modified while new.
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Oct 8, 2016 18:07
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Thanks for the replies people, thread is up!
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Oct 8, 2016 21:05
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Chevy Tahoe Lower speeds like under 30 mph everything is normal. Higher speeds, turning to the right, car pulls left and wants to stay straight. ABS light freaks out. Brake getting stuck? Why only at higher speeds? Is it a wheel bearing or steering mechanism issue? Dumb question: Is it safe to drive to a mechanic?
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Oct 9, 2016 01:09
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Could be a speed sensor, wheel bearing causing drag, hung brake caliper slide pin, etc. Probably ok to drive under 40mph but leave a lot of extra distance between cars for stopping. When my wheel speed sensors went out it took like 3 seconds before it to give me brakes and give up on abs. Had to clean my pants after.
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Oct 9, 2016 01:46
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FogHelmut posted:Dumb question: Is it safe to drive to a mechanic? 
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Oct 9, 2016 03:49
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FogHelmut posted:Chevy Tahoe Abs sensor is freaking out because sensor/ bearing is freaking out. It's better to replace the bearing as well. They come with a new sensor . It also sucks big time having to replace a sensor twice when the wheel bearing fails x miles later.
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Oct 9, 2016 06:01
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Safety Dance posted:What is on bright silver hardware, in that case? It can't just be really polished steel, can it? TooMuchAbstraction posted:If it says "bright finish" on it and doesn't list any metals other than steel, then it is (probably) just polished steel. If you're worried, buy one and mark it up with a screwdriver or hacksaw or something -- it should be bright all the way through. If by 'hardware' you mean nuts/bolts I really doubt it will just be polished steel. If it was then it would have rust on it by the time you bought it! Unless the USA differs from the UK, BZP is the standard for cheap fasteners. BZP is Bright Zinc Plating and is more often shiny silver coloured than gold. You can't always see a colour difference by cutting stuff but you can easily prove that something is coated rather than just normal steel - get a bolt and cut it in half and maul its thread a bit with a pair of grips. then leave it in outside in the rain for a few days and you will start to see rust on the bit you have cut and mauled where you have destroyed the coating or exposed an un-coated bit If it is A2 Stainless or better the head of the bolt will very likely be marked to tell you this. Ken has covered everything else you need to know! You wont die from welding to a few bolts, but you should try to avoid breathing in the fumes.
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Oct 9, 2016 13:27
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Out driving last night and we saw a 40s or 50s car on a trailer. My wife has mentioned several times before that she wants an old car like that after we buy a house and she asked about their reliability and what happens when they break down. I'm sure it depends on the specific year/model, but how tough is it to find parts for older cars like that?
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Oct 9, 2016 15:53
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I suspect it's easier now than thirty years ago - but yes, it really depends on the model. I can still walk into nearly any parts store and find nearly any direct replacement part for my C10. The few I can't, I can probably find a slightly newer year version. Outside of that I have multiple parts houses that specialize in it, so there's pretty much nothing that's truly NLA. This is helped by the fact that much of the running gear was used (or compatible with) trucks as new as 1987. On the Opel GT we had, parts stores might have had points and filters but that was about it. That community pretty much only still exists thanks to one dedicated parts house. The older and more unique you get, the harder it will be. But it will depend on your desire to maintain full originality or make selected upgrades as needed. There aren't any cars you can't keep on the road, but some will certainly be down for longer with larger parts bills.
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Oct 9, 2016 16:26
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There are almost certainly still manufacturers for almost everything. However, it can get expensive for certain things. Generally we're talking about a low-volume business, and these guys want to keep their doors open so they have to charge appropriately. I've got a '66 Corvette that's pretty easy to keep on the road, but if you want to keep things original/correct that's going to drive the cost up. If you're willing to fudge a little bit for function/fiscal responsibility, it's not so bad. My engine is made up of parts that are 75% interchangeable with almost everything Chevy built from the 50s to the 90s. If I need a new distributor, for example, I can buy the correct one for $441 or I can spend $99. I can buy the correct bolts (ie the right marks on the bolt head) for about $3 + absurd shipping costs (easy profit and they don't have to advertise the real cost of almost $5 per bolt) or I can get some generic stuff at any store. Tire prices run roughly double if I want modern radials that have the right "look" or if I actually buy correct (original mold) bias-ply vs just putting regular tires on. Though, finding decent tires in the proper size is getting more difficult every year...and there's exactly nothing on the market to replace the original spare. There's definitely a range of costs, depending on what direction you want to go. But it doesn't have to be a rich guy-only hobby.
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Oct 9, 2016 16:54
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SimonCat posted:I've got a bumper to ship, UPS wants $80 to wrap it and $160 to send if from Iowa to Wisconsin. Given that it's only worth about $100, it's hard to get a buyer, so I'm looking for a cheaper option. I've shipped a couple of fenders on Greyhound. They go bus-staion-to-bus staion for drop off/pick up. It was pretty cheap.
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Oct 9, 2016 16:56
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