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My car currently is at 15% oil life with an A1 code (change oil and rotate tires). I may trade it in next week for a new car. Do I get the service done? ($50-ish)
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Oct 21, 2016 04:00
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| # ? May 17, 2024 13:06 |
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Tire guy : are they summer tires or all seasons? Trade in guy: no.
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Oct 21, 2016 04:27
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Tire guy : are they summer tires or all seasons? Summers. I don't expect there to be much snow on the ground and it's a 2800 mile round trip through Kansas, Missouri & Tennessee with in-and-around driving in Alabama for a month.
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Oct 21, 2016 04:30
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Summer tires turn into hockey pucks around freezing. I probably wouldn't do it.
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Oct 21, 2016 04:34
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Summer tires turn into hockey pucks around freezing. I probably wouldn't do it. Would I be ok driving Blizzaks on a dry highway at 45-60F? Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Oct 21, 2016 |
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Oct 21, 2016 04:45
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Buca di Bepis posted:Would I be ok driving Blizzaks on a dry highway at 45-60F? Low end of the scale, yeah but 60 would be pushing it. Not going to catastrophically fail but wear increases with temperature, and you're going to take a lot of life off of them on a long trip in warm weather.
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Oct 21, 2016 05:27
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Winter tires give you poor grip on hot pavement, and actually perform better at lower temps. Still, relatively poor grip (compared to what is possible with more optimized tires) in the hot and dry is still plenty of friction for safe transportation unless you drive like a maniac. The real issue imo is wear, which will be unnecessarily high if you roll on a much too soft compound. Bad economy but plenty safe I'd say.
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Oct 21, 2016 05:33
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I'd run the summers down to AL and around there, then have tirerack ship winters to either a shop there just before you leave, or a shop along your return route. They can ship to any approved installer. E: I mean honestly it will be fine, a couple thousand miles will wear them more than it should but it won't murder them completely. But with how easy it is to ship tires to a trustworthy shop and have them installed anywhere, anytime, why not plan it intelligently?
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Oct 21, 2016 14:37
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Buying batteries from Costco - do they take the old one for recycling? My battery has gone from "fine, car starts in 1-2 cranks" to "weak crank into clicking" to "battery is uncomfortably warm to the touch and only holding 10.5 volts after charging overnight" in a matter of two days. Pulled it out of the car and left it sitting outside the garage just in case it decides to fail spectacularly.
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Oct 21, 2016 16:48
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Geoj posted:Buying batteries from Costco - do they take the old one for recycling? I'd be kind of surprised if they didn't, but have you considered just calling them and asking?
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Oct 21, 2016 17:00
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Geoj posted:Buying batteries from Costco - do they take the old one for recycling? Also is your car a red color?
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Oct 21, 2016 17:13
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Round my way, if you left a battery outside like that, it'd disappear on its own.
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Oct 21, 2016 17:14
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Michael Scott posted:Also is your car a red color? Not sure how the car it came out of matters, but its a black 2002 Ford Focus.
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Oct 21, 2016 17:41
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Most parts stores will charge you a core charge unless you bring them the old one, and most scrapyards will give you 3 to 12 dollars for the battery depending on how much it weighs, what lead scrap prices are like at that moment, and how much they want to gently caress you over.
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Oct 21, 2016 21:07
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PREFACE: I know jack poo poo about cars. BACKSTORY: A couple months ago my car (2002 Honda Accord) started having an issue where it would crank and crank and crank and not turn over. If I let it sit for a while, and try again after 5-10 minutes, usually it would start after a few attempts. This didn't happen every time I would go to start my car, just the first time. I should mention I don't drive this car every day, only on the weekends and not every weekend. Of course I put off getting it checked out because I'm an idiot. Then a month ago I got in my car and turned the key and it was completely dead. Obviously a dead battery. I called AAA for a jump start, and the guy came out with the jump-starter-machine, and when he hooked it up, the car would crank and crank and crank and not turn over. The guy said he couldn't really wait the ~30 minutes I told him it sometimes takes when this happens, so he left. The next day, I had a friend come over with another jump-start-machine, and when he hooked it up the car started right away. So I took it to a mechanic friend of mine, who checked the car out and said the starter looked fine, the problem probably stemmed from the fact that my battery had been dying for a while and then finally died. So I got a new battery, and everything was fine for a while. Then last week I went out to try my car again, and the same issue started happening. Crank and crank and crank and no turnover. Some investigation of the manual and internet leads me to believe that my immobilizer is the problem. Sure enough, when I turn the key and crank the engine, the immobilizer light on the dash does not come on. Tried it with two different keys. And when I went to try again the next day, the immobilizer light on the dash DID come on, and the car started right up. QUESTION: So given the above, I'm pretty sure the immobilizer is the issue. Could the issue have been caused by having the dying battery for a month (or however long it was dying for?) And is there anything I can do to try and fix it, or is this a "just take it to the dealer" problem? I'm hoping the problem is just a loose cable or something, but it's probably not. Also, I've seen online that there's a brake pedal code you can put in to bypass the immobilizer. Any ideas if this would work for me? And how do I get the right code? As I said, this problem doesn't occur every time I go to start my car, so if I could just use the code for the ~1 in 5 times when the car won't start, that would be good for me in the short term. OldSenileGuy fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Oct 21, 2016 |
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Oct 21, 2016 21:38
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Usually if the immobilizer is the issue, the light will flash constantly while trying to crank it. Normally it should either be steady or off while cranking (I got rid of my Accord a long time ago, so I don't really remember anymore). Next time it does this, look to see if the check engine light comes on for a couple of seconds when you first turn on the key. If it's not, then for some reason the engine computer isn't getting power (and the immobilizer is built into the engine computer). My guesses as to why the ECU wouldn't be getting power would be the main fuel relay or ignition switch. The main fuel relay's usual failure mode is to prevent the fuel pump from turning on (which gives a crank/no start, but the immobilizer light still does its thing), but ECU power runs through it as well. Hell, if it hasn't been done, I'd swap the main fuel relay anyway. They're Honda's biggest Achilles Heel, and it's something you can do yourself. Go to rockauto.com and search for RY423, that should turn up the relay (about $40). This is an easy to follow guide to get to it. I know that says 98-01, but it should be the same on an 02. The brake pedal code is something you'll need to get from the dealer, and you can only get it in person. You'll need some kind of proof of ownership (title, insurance card with VIN, etc). That won't work if the ECU isn't getting power though, which is why I'm suggesting looking for the check engine light next time it acts up. That light is amber, and under the tach. I think it's next to the maintenance required light.
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Oct 22, 2016 02:14
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If it's not the immobilizer, that starter is probably fuckered. Our 7th gen accord had similar issues, intermittent not cranking over, other times working fine. Went nuts testing battery/alt/fueling before finally just saying gently caress it and installing a new starter. Fixed it. The starter is under the intake manifold and there's some opinion that it fails more often on K series cars because of the excess heat of that area.
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Oct 22, 2016 06:01
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HID lamps: One of my headlights got a fault where it would light, but extinguish after a few minutes. Cycling the switch temporarily re‐lights it. My understanding is that that’s a typical failure mode for bulbs, so I bought a two‐pack and replaced both sides. Now the other side has the same intermittent fault, with a brand new bulb. Did I get a defective bulb, or could this indicate a problem with the ballast?
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Oct 22, 2016 08:45
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Try swapping the bulbs between left and right. If the issue follows the bulb, it's the bulb.
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Oct 22, 2016 10:17
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tater_salad posted:Dielectric grease is to make sliding the boots on and off better and keep them from breaking when you take them off, it also keeps water out a bit.. This is a video made by someone who doesn't understand that connectors are designed to be "self cleaning" when put together and that simply plugging them back in wipes the dielectric grease off the contact points. You want to do this because then the rest of the metal that is not in contact is protected from corrosion that would normally make it's way to the actual point of connection and cause high resistance/open circuits. His application method probably works just fine when you live in a desert. Also, specific dielectric grease is required by most codes (and basic sanity) at the point of aluminum service entrance connection (noalox). You put it right on the bare conductor. Motronic fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Oct 22, 2016 |
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Oct 22, 2016 18:34
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The issue with water getting under the boot is mostly that it will short from the terminal to the metal shell, not really any corrosion.
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Oct 22, 2016 19:24
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Replaced rear calipers on an 04 accord, didn't replace pads and rotors as they are almost new. Bled them as I lost some fluid, but the bite point on the brakes feels lower and squishier. Another bleed?
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Oct 23, 2016 00:20
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Is it the kind of caliper with a handbrake mechanism in it as well? Did you reset the hydraulic and handbrake parts in the correct order? In my experience, some cars need you to push the pedal to get the pistons moved back out first, and if you pull the handbrake lever prior to doing that, it never works out how it should, because you've used up all the pad wear adjustment in the mechanism.
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Oct 23, 2016 00:25
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kastein posted:I'd run the summers down to AL and around there, then have tirerack ship winters to either a shop there just before you leave, or a shop along your return route. They can ship to any approved installer. Thanks for the advice, all. I asked a couple Subaru mechanics about this issue, too, and they didn't think running summer tires would be an issue especially if I'm warming them up with highway driving. I won't be in any kind of rush during the drive so I'll be supremely cautious about any kind of inclement weather. I hope Tirerack isn't too bad about seasonal availability when I put an order in for December.
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Oct 23, 2016 00:35
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InitialDave posted:Is it the kind of caliper with a handbrake mechanism in it as well? Did you reset the hydraulic and handbrake parts in the correct order? In my experience, some cars need you to push the pedal to get the pistons moved back out first, and if you pull the handbrake lever prior to doing that, it never works out how it should, because you've used up all the pad wear adjustment in the mechanism. I didn't touch the handbrake at all. Should I now?
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Oct 23, 2016 00:57
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PaintVagrant posted:I didn't touch the handbrake at all. Should I now?
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Oct 23, 2016 01:30
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PaintVagrant posted:I didn't touch the handbrake at all. Should I now? That should have pistons that have to be screwed back in (on the rear), with cables attached to the calipers. No dedicated parking brake components aside from the cable from the parking brake handle to the calipers. I'd bleed them again. Honda says to do it in this order: LF, RF, LR, RR, then do a few hard stops. If it firms up after a few stops, try a few more.
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Oct 23, 2016 01:57
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That should have pistons that have to be screwed back in (on the rear), with cables attached to the calipers. No dedicated parking brake components aside from the cable from the parking brake handle to the calipers. Yeah it's typical Honda rear. I'll bleed them again and report back. This might be the thing that pushes me over the edge into finally buying a mityvac, gently caress manual bleeding blech
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Oct 23, 2016 02:03
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Pressure bleeder is better, but vacuum works. On my corroded bleed screws, my mityvac just pulls air through the threads.
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Oct 23, 2016 02:13
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Mine does that on brand new bleed screws. Someday I'll spring for a legit pressure bleeder.
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Oct 23, 2016 02:15
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Seconding bleeding them again. Had the same thing with fresh pads and rotors on the stang. Bled them, still squishy. Bled them again the second day and they firmed up nice. Manual bleeding takes way too loving long...
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Oct 23, 2016 03:00
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Try swapping the bulbs between left and right. If the issue follows the bulb, it's the bulb. It turned out to be the bulb. That’s what I get for trying to save 70%, even if they had good reviews.
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Oct 23, 2016 03:12
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Quick stupid question about the battery on my car. I have a Ford Kuga (Escape in the US). Two nights ago I had to bum start it as the battery was flat. I drove it 1 hour home after work and put it on charge in the morning but only for a couple of hours as I had to use it again in the afternoon. I went drove for an hour and then had to bump start it again to get home. When I got it home I put it on charge over night. This morning my charger was saying complete. I figure there is either something draining the battery or the battery is dead so I have left it alone on the drive for the day not charging and not using it. I have just been out to check, on Fords you can bring up the test menu and check your voltage. Before cranking the engine its showing 11.5 volts than when it starts up it shows the 14.5. Im going to confirm this in the morning with my ODB sensor thing. Am I right in saying that my battery is dying? Or is it possibly something is draining the battery? Ive had the car 18 months with no issues and I have changed nothing.
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Oct 23, 2016 19:42
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11.5 as "fully charged" means you need a new battery. It should be under warranty if it's only 18 months old.
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Oct 23, 2016 19:49
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Use a cheap multimeter rather than the on-board system, and measure what the voltage drops to when cranking. If it drops a lot, you almost certainly have an unhealthy battery. How old is it?
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Oct 23, 2016 19:49
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11.5 is dead, if true
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Oct 23, 2016 19:50
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6 years old so no warranty. No multimeter available. Figure in the morning i will take it to get tested. Would the odb figure be different from the dash? Am i looking for a big drop when I crank it?
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Oct 23, 2016 19:54
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At that age, I'd be inclined to say dead. My initial thoughts were that the 11.5v reading could be a red herring if it's not accurate, so test it independently, but if the battery's 6 years old, I'm happy enough to revert to looks like a duck, quacks like a duck in terms of suspicion of results.
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Oct 23, 2016 19:58
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Cool. WIll get it tested properly in the morning and throw a new one in if its no good.
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Oct 23, 2016 20:45
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| # ? May 17, 2024 13:06 |
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I have a question about Nissan Xterras, should I avoid getting one? Specifically one with the 4.0, the 6 speed, and about 100k on it. I've been thinking about a medium size truck like SUV and when I saw that you can get the Xterra with a 6 speed, 4x4, and a v6 its been in the back of my mind. Since I've been driving my burban for almost a year now I'm starting to get bored with it, I really like what I can do with it but its a 2x4 automatic and I don't really need to be able to haul 9 people. Most of my commuting is back and forth to the airport and to northern Wisconsin a few times a month which the burban has been great for but as long as I can put my KTM on the hitch or pull a smaller enclosed trailer I'm ok with downsizing. Would it be a mistake? Thanks.
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Oct 23, 2016 21:10
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