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Cars can lose oil depending on driving style, too. For instance, my 88 Delta 88 wouldn't burn a single drop of oil between 3-5k changes, unless I took it above 85. At those speeds, I think it would overwhelm the PCV system, and nearly all of the oil would be gone in three hours. Of course, since it had a GM 3800 V6, I could just fill it with more oil after running dry and be good for another 5k without maintenance of any kind  Conversely, both of my ACVW-equipped vehicles don't burn a single drop when running the engine, even at "high" speeds (70+ for hours on end), but will lose 1/4 to 1/2-quart monthly just sitting there.
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Oct 31, 2016 05:42
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Raluek posted:What are your plans? I still think you should make a thread. I want it to be a daily/summer driver. The 283 is locked up but we're going to pull the heads to see just how bad. Otherwise it's going to sit for the winter while we plan out body repairs. There are some holes in the floor, the driver's floor pan is punched in as if someone tried to jack it up from the floor and worst of all the windshield frame is completely rotten. I'll probably post in the chat thread with intermittent updates until we get closer to completion. Raluek posted:E: Oh yeah, forgot you had inherited it. That's a pretty steep price for a car, don't you think? Yeah, but I'll spare AI the gloomy details. All I want to say is I'm sure my aunt would have been happy to see the car back on the road.
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Oct 31, 2016 07:00
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Javid posted:Does Denmark not have bulk bins at hardware stores? Finding generic nuts and washers in the appropriate threading and size would be nigh-trivial at a hardware store here. (Unless the lug nut threads are something fuckity) They do, but it's expensive and a bit out of my way, and I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't carry M12x1.5 and only M12x1.75. spankmeister posted:Well, Danish hardware stores are useless because their language is incomprehensible: Pjat med dig, det er et fuldstændigt logisk sprog. Well played.
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Oct 31, 2016 09:16
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon v6, manual transmission. For the last half year, I've had this problem where the car jerks back during acceleration. It seems to happen when it moves from second gear to third. I seemed to happen immediately after I had my car looked at, when I had my spark plugs replaced. Can't imagine why spark plugs would have anything to do with this, I'm thinking this is transmission related. I think this might have been a major 100K mile checkup I had, so maybe it included a change of transmission fluid? Not sure if I had that fluid replaced or not. What should I expect with an issue like this? Minor fix, like trans fluid, or major? I want to get a new car, but I don't expect to be able to be in a place to buy one until at least next summer.
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Oct 31, 2016 16:19
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My car has piddled oil for the entire decade I've owned it, despite changing every seal and gasket that's accessible without pulling the engine out. It reliably drops around a quart every 2500-3000 miles with changes every 5000. I'm pretty sure chasing the leak(s) further would quickly exceed the cost of many years of that extra quart per change interval so I just watch it and don't worry otherwise. The tidbit about little bits escaping the oil rings and getting burned is new to me but explains a lot, too; I imagine a 3.8l v6 has a lot of room to make a little dribble of oil disappear.
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Oct 31, 2016 19:41
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bolind posted:Well played.
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Oct 31, 2016 19:49
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Bought a new Interstate battery for my (2002 Black Zetec MTX) Focus at Costco and the terminals are loose as poo poo...to the point of misfiring bad once I got on the highway this morning. Managed to finally track down a set of terminal shims at AAP and even with those in place I'm still getting random misfires if I give the car more than 50% throttle. Did they sell me the wrong battery? This is the fourth the car has had and I never had an issue with the terminals not fitting the posts on the previous three. Terminals are as tight as they can get and (prior to installing the shims) turn around the posts with minimal effort. e: good point, hadn't thought of that. VVV Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 20:35
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Geoj posted:Bought a new Interstate battery for my (2002 Black Zetec MTX) Focus at Costco and the terminals are loose as poo poo...to the point of misfiring bad once I got on the highway this morning. Managed to finally track down a set of terminal shims at AAP and even with those in place I'm still getting random misfires if I give the car more than 50% throttle. First, how stable is the wiring to the terminals? If you live in corrosion country (tm), make sure you check where the neg ground attaches to the chassis. A really quick hack to see if this is what's going on would be to ground your battery to a nice shiny bit of the engine with jumper cables, and give it a good punch. Obviously, this isn't ideal, but it's pretty telling where the problem lies. Javid posted:My car has piddled oil for the entire decade I've owned it, despite changing every seal and gasket that's accessible without pulling the engine out. A dry spot on the driveway means I'm down at least one vehicle. My 2000 9-5 Aero is the biggest leaking bastard I've owned (after my godawful Ford 4.0 pushrod), but I still lack maybe a cup of oil after 5,000+ miles correcting for OCD refills. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 20:36
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Revol posted:I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon v6, manual transmission. For the last half year, I've had this problem where the car jerks back during acceleration. It seems to happen when it moves from second gear to third. I seemed to happen immediately after I had my car looked at, when I had my spark plugs replaced. Can't imagine why spark plugs would have anything to do with this, I'm thinking this is transmission related. I think this might have been a major 100K mile checkup I had, so maybe it included a change of transmission fluid? Not sure if I had that fluid replaced or not. I don't see how it could be the trans since it's a manual transmission. If it's low on oil or has the wrong oil, it will make noise and be hard to get into gear when you shift, but I don't see how it could be jerky. Manuals are really simple things, so I'd look at engine stuff (did something get unplugged when they were working on the spark plugs?) and engine mounts (maybe the whole engine/trans flops around when you accelerate?)
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Oct 31, 2016 22:20
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West SAAB Story posted:A really quick hack to see if this is what's going on would be to ground your battery to a nice shiny bit of the engine with jumper cables, and give it a good punch. Obviously, this isn't ideal, but it's pretty telling where the problem lies. Only problem here is it seems to start and idle just fine, it only really exhibits the symptoms at higher speeds (say, above 40 MPH.) It was fine on surface streets until I turned onto a 50 MPH highway and gave it gas to accelerate, then it starting misfiring. With the shims in place it accelerates more or less smoothly with occasional/random dips in power.
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Oct 31, 2016 22:28
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Geoj posted:Only problem here is it seems to start and idle just fine, it only really exhibits the symptoms at higher speeds (say, above 40 MPH.) It was fine on surface streets until I turned onto a 50 MPH highway and gave it gas to accelerate, then it starting misfiring. With the shims in place it accelerates more or less smoothly with occasional/random dips in power. Do you have a way to track your alt's power at the same time?
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Oct 31, 2016 22:30
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West SAAB Story posted:Do you have a way to track your alt's power at the same time? Yeah, I have an ELM327 reader. Go figure - drive home from work it didn't give me any trouble. The joys of owning a car that's nearly old enough to drive. e: think I fixed it. Ran Torque during about 30 minutes of mixed driving, was only getting ~13v out of the charging system even at highway speed. Reshimmed the battery terminals - cut the caps up and flattened part of one out, bent it to fit around the post and drove the terminal over the post with the lead between the two - and now they're firm after tightening everything back down. Also cleaned up the battery > chassis ground point and applied a liberal dose of dielectric gel to everything. Engine pulls hard throughout the powerband and the charging system held steady at >13.5v. Geoj fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 23:22
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Skunkrocker posted:I have a 97 GMC Jimmy with what I believe is a 4L60-E automatic transmission. The transmission issues I've been having lately have been bizarre. First, it was roughly vibrating everything at random times. I asked my father about it and he said it was probably low on fluid. So I added some, but that didn't fix the issue right away. Eventually it smoothed itself out and everything was fine, until I drove the truck almost non stop for several hours on a road trip. By the time I got to where I was going, the transmission felt like it wouldn't go into overdrive, but would shift between the rest of the gears. I took it to my father's place and siphoned out some of the fluid and replaced it with the Lucas ATF additive. Well, now when it's in drive it locks into third gear. I can still manually shift between first, second, and third, and I still have reverse, but no overdrive at all. I'm not sure what is going on. Is this a common issue? What should I do? Update on this, if I try to start out in drive it locks in third, but if I manually shift from first I can get the transmission to shift into overdrive but only when I'm on the freeway. I read online that it might be a solenoid issue, but running the codes only gave me P1870 Transmission Slipping so I think the solenoids are fine. Do you think if I just replace the fluid and filter I'll be fine?
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Nov 1, 2016 15:13
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I just love piling on oil consumption chat since I have a 2013 Forester that burns over a quart every 1000 miles. Thanks to the class action against Subaru for this year (and others), going in for my oil consumption test this weekend!
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Nov 1, 2016 16:17
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:The PO of my truck spray painted a bunch of the interior trim black, I'd like to get it back to the factory gray underneath. Can someone recommend a stripping compound that would work well for this application? The trim along the door opening is worth trying to clean off (since it's part of an MJ specific panel) but the little panel in the front corner under the dash I am 99% sure is the same as a 96- XJ one so go pillage a junkyard, pay $5, and put your new panel in. Basically, the only MJ specific interior panels are the big center console bucket in front of the armrest portion (the XJ has the handbrake in the middle of it, down that neat slot that's blocked off in an MJ one), the center console has different plastic at the back bottom due to the different floor, as well as the B pillar trim, the door opening trim at the bottom that goes toward the back/B pillar, and anything on the back of the cab. The dash, the rest of the center console, and those two little kick panel pieces below the dash on each A pillar are the same as an XJ and there's absolutely no point in trying to restore them when they made several million donors.
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Nov 1, 2016 16:39
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Raluek posted:I don't see how it could be the trans since it's a manual transmission. If it's low on oil or has the wrong oil, it will make noise and be hard to get into gear when you shift, but I don't see how it could be jerky. Manuals are really simple things, so I'd look at engine stuff (did something get unplugged when they were working on the spark plugs?) and engine mounts (maybe the whole engine/trans flops around when you accelerate?) Ugh, I'm an idiot. I meant to say it was auto trans.
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Nov 1, 2016 17:10
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My 2001 Integra (B18B1, non vtec) has been throwing a random misfire code (P0300) plus the misfire codes for each cylinder (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304). I haven't noticed any problems that I can hear or feel either idling or under load. From a quick search, the cause of this can be... literally any of the things involved in combustion. We can probably rule out spark, I just replaced the plugs and wires and the coil was replaced a few years ago. I also threw on new fuel and air filters but that didn't help either. I'll do my best to check for vacuum leaks, is there anything else I can test relatively easily before I have to pay someone to look at it?
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Nov 1, 2016 20:01
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heat posted:My 2001 Integra (B18B1, non vtec) has been throwing a random misfire code (P0300) plus the misfire codes for each cylinder (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304). I haven't noticed any problems that I can hear or feel either idling or under load. From a quick search, the cause of this can be... literally any of the things involved in combustion. We can probably rule out spark, I just replaced the plugs and wires and the coil was replaced a few years ago. I also threw on new fuel and air filters but that didn't help either. I'll do my best to check for vacuum leaks, is there anything else I can test relatively easily before I have to pay someone to look at it? Did the misfire code start just after you did all that work?
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Nov 1, 2016 21:41
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I have a 2014 Infiniti and the dealer recommends flushing the coolant and transmission at 30,000 miles. This sounds unnecessary to me absent evidence of a problem, but what's the general thinking on that sort of preventative maintenance?
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Nov 2, 2016 01:00
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Manual or automatic transmission, what climate do you live in, and what do you use the car for?
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Nov 2, 2016 01:11
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The Door Frame posted:Manual or automatic transmission, what climate do you live in, and what do you use the car for? Virginia so no real extremes on climate. On the coast where its flat. Commuting, so some stop and go traffic. About 10k miles a year. It's a Q50s AWD.
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Nov 2, 2016 01:15
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Virginia so no real extremes on climate. On the coast where its flat. Commuting, so some stop and go traffic. About 10k miles a year. It's a Q50s AWD. I'm assuming automatic trans then? Changing the fluid couldn't hurt, the ATF breaks down relatively quickly and becomes less able to lubricate the gears, so it needs to be changed regularly. I don't exactly know what a "flush" entails, but it's good to at least change it if it's the manufacturer's scheduled maintenance interval. Coolant is less important if you aren't feeling like paying for the service, it can be largely ignored as long as there is enough coolant in the system. Old coolant can leave deposits in the system and those can impact performance and life expectancy of certain parts, so flushes are beneficial, but not strictly necessary
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Nov 2, 2016 02:00
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The Door Frame posted:Coolant is less important if you aren't feeling like paying for the service, it can be largely ignored as long as there is enough coolant in the system. Old coolant can leave deposits in the system and those can impact performance and life expectancy of certain parts, so flushes are beneficial, but not strictly necessary General PSA: this does not apply for anyone reading this who drives a GM vehicle with dexcool. Change it regularly, and probably go ahead and flush it all the way out with distilled water and replace with standard green antifreeze.
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Nov 2, 2016 02:18
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Enourmo posted:General PSA: this does not apply for anyone reading this who drives a GM vehicle with dexcool. Change it regularly, and probably go ahead and flush it all the way out with distilled water and replace with standard green antifreeze. This. Dexcool turns into PURE CAR ACID if ignored long enough. We're talking the face melting poo poo for your car (even though it is generally a sludge). Do a complete flush and replace with green, or replace it every few months- either way, do it. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Nov 2, 2016 |
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Nov 2, 2016 02:22
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Enourmo posted:General PSA: this does not apply for anyone reading this who drives a GM vehicle with dexcool. Change it regularly, and probably go ahead and flush it all the way out with distilled water and replace with standard green antifreeze. Hahaha, I was typing this into google and it autocompleted "gm dex" to "gm dex cool lawsuit" This was the first result: quote:The lawsuits were filed on behalf of owners of General Motors vehicles, which were factory-filled with “Dex-Cool” coolant. In summary, the lawsuits alleged that Dex-Cool degraded certain vehicles’ intake manifold gaskets and other engine sealability components, and that in certain other vehicles, Dex-Cool formed a rusty sludge, clogging the vehicles’ cooling systems and causing vehicles to overheat. According to what actual information I can find on the stuff, it reacts negatively with air, aluminum, coolant additives, and certain kinds of plastic to form what has been described as "pudding" that eats through the aluminum and plastic parts of the cooling system. Great stuff
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Nov 2, 2016 02:35
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Oddly enough, my mom had a Suburban that succumbed to dexcool system murder in five years. But her Trailblazer went with it for twelve+. It did get a radiator replaced but that's not exactly uncommon in a vehicle of that age. For pretty much any other vehicle, I'd skip the coolant flush until whatever the owners manual says. Probably 5yr/100k. Transmission I'd go either way on, depending on the manufacturer recommendation. I'd probably push it to 50k if it's one of those lifetime fills, or do it earlier if it is easy.
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Nov 2, 2016 03:05
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I have been thinking about changing my car but have ultimately decided to keep it. It is a 2002 Toyota/Lexus Altezza Gita/IS300 which has done around 160k km and I've owned it since 2009. It drives well, has never let me down and I've spent a total of $1200 (NZD) in repairs in the time I've owned it. The only major annoyances I have with it are the bad mileage and tendency to wear the front inside tyres. Question 1: I've always had it serviced at the dealer and have always pretty much done the things they recommend at the time. However given its age are there other things that I should look at doing? I'm thinking things like the suspension bushings which I'm pretty sure have never been done. I want it to stay reliable and drive well for another few years at least. Question 2: I probably am paying too much getting it serviced at the dealer. How do I find a good mechanic? I've always thought the dealer premium was worth it as they should be experts on that type of car. However it seems insane to be taking a 14 year old car to a dealer for servicing.
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Nov 2, 2016 03:50
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The Door Frame posted:I'm assuming automatic trans then? Changing the fluid couldn't hurt, the ATF breaks down relatively quickly and becomes less able to lubricate the gears, so it needs to be changed regularly. I don't exactly know what a "flush" entails, but it's good to at least change it if it's the manufacturer's scheduled maintenance interval. Thanks. And yeah sorry for not answering transmission type the first time, but auto with paddle shifters that I hardly ever bother with.
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Nov 2, 2016 04:08
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I have a 2004 F150 SuperCrew FX4 with 171k. On Sunday the front differential exploded, leaving me stranded on the interstate. Had it towed to a shop and the estimate for repair is around $1500, which is to replace the differential and both front axles with used parts. I'm having difficulty deciding what to do with it at this point. KBB says the private party value is $5661 in fair condition. It's not my daily driver so I'm leaning toward selling it. However, I don't have another truck and I'm wondering how long it will be before I decide I really need a truck. My DD is a Jeep Wrangler, and my thought is that I can get a small utility trailer and just use the Jeep to tow it when I need to haul things. I never tow anything, I only use the truck bed for loads of firewood, occasional lumber purchases from home depot, or the odd piece of furniture here and there. A trailer would save me on maintenance, insurance, registration, etc that I normally spend on the truck. On top of that, it's the third time this truck has left me stranded for various reasons and I'm pretty frustrated with it. Over the course of my ownership on it, it has cost me a total $3645 in repairs (excluding this one), which I guess isn't terrible when spread out over 7 years. My jeep has another year of payments, and I don't really want to have two car payments, so a new truck isn't an option for me yet. Selling the truck for $4500 would allow me to buy a used trailer and pay off the Jeep in one shot. With that high of mileage, I worry that I would put $1500 into repairs only to have the transmission or engine blow on me right afterwards. On the other hand, I can pay $1500 to get a working truck back, which is less than what I would spend on another truck, old or new. When I told the mechanic my hesitation to repair based on past experience and the value, he expressed interest in purchasing the truck from me. He told me that the cost to him to repair it would be $1100 so he would be making $400 off of me if I decide to repair it. He didn't make me an offer yet but said he would be open to negotiations. Is it rude to ask for $4500, based on the KBB value? I figure he would probably low ball me and then we meet in the middle somewhere, which I'm comfortable with. Or should I just suck it up and fix the stupid thing? I asked about getting a solid axle installed instead but the costs would end up being similar and leave me without 4wd.
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Nov 2, 2016 06:44
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West SAAB Story posted:This. Dexcool turns into PURE CAR ACID if ignored long enough. We're talking the face melting poo poo for your car (even though it is generally a sludge). Do a complete flush and replace with green, or replace it every few months- either way, do it. Good lord, this. I finally drained the original Dexcool out of my car when it had a bit over 100k. I poured it into some plastic gallon milk jugs.... and it melted them after a couple of days. The coolant LOOKED fresh, but it smelled horrific (like coolant that was 20+ years old) and irritated the poo poo out of my hands. Thankfully there's no coolant passages in the intake manifold on my engine, otherwise I probably would have had to replace it around the same time. I'm kinda shocked that the radiator has made it this far too (155k), though I've started getting a whiff of coolant when I get out of the car.  Somehow the radiator has outlasted the fan and ac condenser.. for now.Red_Fred posted:Question 2: I probably am paying too much getting it serviced at the dealer. How do I find a good mechanic? I've always thought the dealer premium was worth it as they should be experts on that type of car. However it seems insane to be taking a 14 year old car to a dealer for servicing. Yelp, or whatever the most popular user reviews site is in NZ. Alternatively, ask locally about shops that specialize in Toyotas - in my own experience, shops that specialize in one or two makes are generally owned and operated by former dealer mechanics anyway. heat posted:My 2001 Integra (B18B1, non vtec) has been throwing a random misfire code (P0300) plus the misfire codes for each cylinder (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304). I haven't noticed any problems that I can hear or feel either idling or under load. From a quick search, the cause of this can be... literally any of the things involved in combustion. We can probably rule out spark, I just replaced the plugs and wires and the coil was replaced a few years ago. I also threw on new fuel and air filters but that didn't help either. I'll do my best to check for vacuum leaks, is there anything else I can test relatively easily before I have to pay someone to look at it? Check your plug wires to make sure they're connected properly, and make sure all of the wires are tight. If this happened right after the new plugs, you got the wires mixed up. Beyond that, the ignitor would be my first suspect. It's basically a tiny ignition control module inside the distributor. It's pretty easy to test with a digital multimeter. The coil would be my next suspect, especially if you didn't use an OEM Honda coil.
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Nov 2, 2016 07:05
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PabloBOOM posted:I just love piling on oil consumption chat since I have a 2013 Forester that burns over a quart every 1000 miles. Thanks to the class action against Subaru for this year (and others), going in for my oil consumption test this weekend! My car burns a quart every 100 miles, what do I win?
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Nov 2, 2016 11:45
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Olympic Mathlete posted:My car burns a quart every 100 miles, what do I win? Probably cancer from all the toxins
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Nov 2, 2016 13:08
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Red_Fred posted:The only major annoyances I have with it are the bad mileage and tendency to wear the front inside tyres. You may want to look at getting a 4 wheel alignment done, that may solve your tire problems. As for maintenance items it's hard to recommend what needs to be done without knowing what's been done already. For example I'd assume you've had your timing belt done by now but you may be driving on borrowed time if you haven't. Other than that replacing every fluid that hasn't been done in a while isn't a bad idea and same goes for a fuel filter. Suspension bushings on the other hand I wouldn't bother with unless you know you have bad ones, it's a pretty labor intensive job and you probably wouldn't feel the difference unless they were properly dead. Assuming the dealer isn't stiffing you though you're probably doing pretty well for maintenance. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Nov 2, 2016 |
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Nov 2, 2016 13:59
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totalnewbie posted:Did the misfire code start just after you did all that work? Both, the code showed up, I changed plugs and wires and cleared it, showed up again, replaced filters and cleared it, showed up again. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Check your plug wires to make sure they're connected properly, and make sure all of the wires are tight. If this happened right after the new plugs, you got the wires mixed up. Now I realize I forgot exactly which part was replaced, it was one of the few repairs I didn't do myself, but looking at the price difference between OEM and aftermarket coils and ignitors I'm going to say it definitely wasn't OEM. I found the test in the shop manual so I'll do that today.
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Nov 2, 2016 15:45
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spankmeister posted:Probably cancer from all the toxins Hmm, I was expecting better in all honesty.
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Nov 2, 2016 15:53
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My '03 CRV is getting long in the tooth so I preordered a new Impreza and will lease that for 3 years and then buy a used '18 or '19 Crosstrek. Seems reasonable? Apparently the '17 Impreza is 95% new, whatever that means, and with it being built in the US for the first time it seems like the chances of issues is higher than normal. So I hope to avoid fully shouldering that risk myself and then get a deal on what is hopefully a turbo later. I haven't bought a car since... well.. '03 so I have a hard time judging these things.
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Nov 2, 2016 19:20
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So the mechanic and I couldn't get anywhere on a price agreement, he offered me $1k for the truck and stuck with it. So gently caress that. Now I'm looking at doing the repair just to get it home and probably selling it from there.
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Nov 2, 2016 21:33
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heat posted:Both, the code showed up, I changed plugs and wires and cleared it, showed up again, replaced filters and cleared it, showed up again. That's almost certainly the coil and/or ignitor then. Obviously you want to test them first before throwing money at it. Cripes... I didn't realize how expensive the parts had gotten. You can find the OEM stuff on eBay for a reasonable price if you go used, but I'm really kicking myself for how little I sold my (new in box, OEM) extra coil and ignitor for now. I think the original ignitor is made by NEC, looks like part # 30130-P75-006. $200 online, with one on ebay for $182.  Wells is about $50 and is usually okay, Delphi seems to be about the same price on Rockauto and is the OEM for *cough* GM. I haven't priced the OEM coil, but I assume it's equally hilariously expensive.If you have a Pick n Pull or other self service junkyard, you might try to find a complete distributor and save some money. I'm pretty sure any distributor from a 3rd generation non-VTEC Integra will work (94-01); the remans carry the same part number for that year range, anyway. It's only 3 bolts to remove it. Also, how long has it been since the timing belt was done? My old roommate had a 93 (I think) Integra (same engine) that had one cam a tooth off after the timing belt was done. It somehow drove fine - if anything, it ran better in terms of power, it had no problem burying the speedometer and then some with only an intake and header on it - but failed (sniffer) emissions laughably bad, and was throwing misfire codes. Drunk Beekeeper posted:So the mechanic and I couldn't get anywhere on a price agreement, he offered me $1k for the truck and stuck with it. So gently caress that. Now I'm looking at doing the repair just to get it home and probably selling it from there. For what it's worth, my stepdad has an 01 2WD F-150 (XLT Lariat, 5.4), and he constantly gets offers for $4k+ for it. He has a lot less miles (around 120k), but it's definitely showing its age (both body and interior, and it's on its 2nd transmission now). Detail the hell out of it and you should be able to get a good price for it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 05:47
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I'm a happy owner of a 2009 Ford Focus I picked up new in April of 2009. It's currently got a little over 90,000 miles and has never given me any mechanical issues other than wear and tear. I know it was one of the most reliable cars in that time period. I hope to keep it for a while longer, but periodically check on new model compacts just to keep up in case something catastrophic happens and I need to pick up something new. I'm seeing that the current gen Focus' (and Fiesta's for that matter) are being ranked as the least reliable models as of late. What has caused Ford's compacts to go downhill in such a short period of time? Is it the terrible automatic dual-clutch transmissions I keep hearing about? Who is currently building the best non-premium compacts these days (that still get good gas mileage)?
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Nov 3, 2016 19:15
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Could be related to Ford's terrible, terrible, terrible infotainment system. And Japanese companies will always be good at small cars because that's basically their entire domestic market.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:54
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