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Sagebrush posted:If you've only hit neutral instead of second once in your riding career, good for you. Also NDB except that you sound like an idiot when you're just across the intersection and about to hammer on and instead you go vvvrRRRRRRRROOoooOOoooooOmmmmMmmMmMmmmmmmm
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Nov 8, 2016 15:53
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Only time I've got a false neutral on the Uly was when it was actually the belt had broken and fallen off 30 meters up the road.
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Nov 8, 2016 17:43
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I checked my valve clearance on an 08 sv650 (first time doing this on anything) and found one exhaust valve significantly too tight. The rest of the valves were exactly in spec, but at the tightest possible end of the range however. So if the intake valve range was 0.004-0.008 they were all exactly 0.004, and the exhaust range was 0.008-0.012 they were all 0.008 (save for one exhaust valve which was 0.004 which I need to change). My question is there any reason I should move the shims towards the middle of the range for any good reason? I don't mind the additional work but I do also understand "in spec is in spec" as well. I just don't know if there is any advantage in this. Mostly because I have no real idea the consequence of a slightly looser valve on its operation to be honest. Also the shim I do have to replace was annoyingly marked "172" which doesn't appear to be a shim size sold for any Suzuki and doesn't apply to their shim chart. I measured it with calipers which put it at 176 mm though. Part of the reason I'm asking the previous question is while I can get 1 shim for ~$10 shipped, I can get a whole box of every shim size for $60 shipped. I'm happy to save $50 but I do worry I won't get it "just right" with one replacement shim and if there is benefit to getting a whole box of them then that may be the better route
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Nov 8, 2016 18:33
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When adjusting the valves you should always adjust them as close to the loosest end of the spec range as possible while still being within spec. The valve clearances will usually gradually tighten over time, checking the clearances to make sure they haven't gone tighter is why we do regular valve checks, so it's always best to adjust them to the loosest end of the spec when you check them. A hair too large clearance (a few thousandths) will just mean the valve doesn't open quite as far as it's supposed to and slightly reduce the volumetric efficiency of your engine. A too tight clearance will result in the valve not closing tightly - this is bad because the way valves get cooled down is by snugging tightly against the valve seat when closed, thereby transferring some of their heat into the metal of the head by contact; if they are no longer making firm contact, they don't transfer enough heat and will start to burn and melt and then you have valves with holes in them that you have to replace. 
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Nov 8, 2016 20:08
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penus penus penus posted:I checked my valve clearance on an 08 sv650 (first time doing this on anything) and found one exhaust valve significantly too tight. The rest of the valves were exactly in spec, but at the tightest possible end of the range however. So if the intake valve range was 0.004-0.008 they were all exactly 0.004, and the exhaust range was 0.008-0.012 they were all 0.008 (save for one exhaust valve which was 0.004 which I need to change). HCC answered your tightness question and you should follow his advice. I've found that stock shims are often non-standard sizes. I found a couple 268s in my bike when I did it the first time and everything I find aftermarket is in increments of 5. Also, a micrometer is a better measuring tool for shims than a caliper. Unless it's a really high quality caliper, there's too much tolerance in the mechanism, enough to be off by couple hundredths of a mm. If you can swing the cost, buy the whole box. SVs are common enough on here that you could just post up a list of what you have and sell them for a couple bucks apiece. On my bike's owners forum, we keep a pool of all the loose shims that everyone has and trade them pretty frequently. Shims are valuable trading stock. There are also probably a few other bikes that use the same diameter shims, so you could help out more than just SV owners.
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Nov 8, 2016 20:39
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HotCanadianChick posted:When adjusting the valves you should always adjust them as close to the loosest end of the spec range as possible while still being within spec. The valve clearances will usually gradually tighten over time, checking the clearances to make sure they haven't gone tighter is why we do regular valve checks, so it's always best to adjust them to the loosest end of the spec when you check them. Cool thanks. Guess I'll change all of them but I dont mind since every valve is evidently on edge of being a problem then! Also thanks Henry, didnt cross my mind thats a good idea penus penus penus fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 20:41
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clutchpuck posted:Only time I've got a false neutral on the Uly was when it was actually the belt had broken and fallen off 30 meters up the road. No, I was talking about the situation where you don't kick up to second quite hard enough and end up in neutral instead. The opposite of a false neutral. It happened to me a lot when I started riding until I figured out how to adjust the shifter angle. HotCanadianChick posted:When adjusting the valves you should always adjust them as close to the loosest end of the spec range as possible while still being within spec. The valve clearances will usually gradually tighten over time, checking the clearances to make sure they haven't gone tighter is why we do regular valve checks, so it's always best to adjust them to the loosest end of the spec when you check them. Yeah, it's definitely better to be too loose than too tight. Especially if you have a bike with iffy cooling, or anything air-cooled. It might sound like a herd of sewing machines, but a tappy engine is a happy engine!
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Nov 8, 2016 21:08
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I have a question about hydraulic clutches. If I replace my clutch master with a larger diameter one, I assume the clutch would disengage with less lever pull? This would be something I'd like. However, with the stock lever, the pull is all the way to the bars. With a larger cylinder, would I encounter mechanical resistance before that, once the slave is pushed out as far as I can go? If I squeeze the lever hard, would I break stuff?
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Nov 8, 2016 22:03
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Less lever pull but more effort. What are you trying to accomplish here, or rather what is the issue with your current setup? And no, you won't find mechanical bottom.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:13
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HotCanadianChick posted:When adjusting the valves you should always adjust them as close to the loosest end of the spec range as possible while still being within spec. The valve clearances will usually gradually tighten over time, checking the clearances to make sure they haven't gone tighter is why we do regular valve checks, so it's always best to adjust them to the loosest end of the spec when you check them. Slappy valves are happy valves.
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Nov 8, 2016 23:13
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BlackMK4 posted:Less lever pull but more effort. What are you trying to accomplish here, or rather what is the issue with your current setup? And no, you won't find mechanical bottom. I've never liked the way my clutch grabs. Basically the entire range of the lever is utilized; all the way to the bars to clutch in, almost all the way out to have it grab. I would like to move the entire useful range closer to the bars, like having slack on a cable clutch. I'm thinking about fixing it by fitting some master off another bike. Although I guess I could also fit a smaller diameter slave? Mostly just worried about the wrong ratio physically breaking things. That would mean a smaller range but far from the bars, which I could then adjust closer to the bars by using differently shaped lever. High Protein fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 23:21
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Sagebrush posted:a tappy engine is a happy engine! GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Slappy valves are happy valves. It's a slappy tappy is a happy tappy, YOU GUYS.
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Nov 9, 2016 04:10
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Slide Hammer posted:It's a slappy tappy is a happy tappy, YOU GUYS. I think you'll find it's actually "a sleppy teppy is a heppy cheppie" with the world's heaviest afrikaans accent. High Protein posted:I've never liked the way my clutch grabs. Basically the entire range of the lever is utilized; all the way to the bars to clutch in, almost all the way out to have it grab. I would like to move the entire useful range closer to the bars, like having slack on a cable clutch. My 2c: It makes sense and will have the effect you're looking for. I would find out what master cylinder bore is, then find a master with a very small increase in diameter. But realtalk it might have a faulty MC/SC/Misadjusted quadraconfabulator. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Nov 9, 2016 |
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Nov 9, 2016 08:29
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Slavvy posted:I think you'll find it's actually "a sleppy teppy is a heppy cheppie" with the world's heaviest afrikaans accent. In Sharlto Copley's accent this is perfect.
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Nov 9, 2016 08:32
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My bike wouldn't start this morning, would just run the starter over and over without ever starting. The dash would reset constantly whilst turning the starter and the parking light would dim. The battery sits at ~12.2v but while cranking the starter it goes as low as ~3v. The battery is beyond saving, right?
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Nov 10, 2016 18:11
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It's dead, Jim.
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Nov 10, 2016 18:17
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Chichevache posted:In Sharlto Copley's accent this is perfect. It's been said to me many times by two entirely separate south african head mechanics.
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Nov 10, 2016 19:10
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How low a loan can you realistically get for a used motorcycle? I'm looking at something in the 3k range, but want to keep my savings up. Is there a lender out there that will give me that small a loan on a used bike? I have excellent credit if that matters.
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Nov 10, 2016 22:13
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Network42 posted:How low a loan can you realistically get for a used motorcycle? I'm looking at something in the 3k range, but want to keep my savings up. Is there a lender out there that will give me that small a loan on a used bike? I have excellent credit if that matters. a secured personal loan with the bike as the security or just an unsecured personal loan is probably what you are looking for
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Nov 10, 2016 22:24
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Not to be a dick, but you shouldn't be taking a loan out for a $3000 used motorcycle. If you can't comfortably pay cash for a $3000 toy, don't buy it. You won't get a decent interest rate on any loan you could take out for that amount. If three grand is going to make a big enough dent in your savings account that you don't want to take said dent, that bike isn't worth it. Don't forget, you're also going to be looking at another $300-500 or more in riding gear, plus insurance costs, plus incidentals on top of the cost of the bike.
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Nov 11, 2016 00:28
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I took out a $6k loan on a 2 year term at 5.25%, interest will be ~$380 when it's done. I'd say that's kinda worth it to have the piece of mind to keep that money in your savings in case something comes up. I don't know how low you can go but a $4k loan with that rate and term length is about $200. Even if you took out more than you wanted, just pay the rest back towards the loan. Obviously YMMV, got mine at a local credit union.
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Nov 11, 2016 01:53
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CA: street racing is awesome and fun to watch/do, but don't take out loans for 3,000 dollars and make sure to ride your ninjette for at least 10k miles
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Nov 11, 2016 02:09
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PaintVagrant posted:CA: street racing is awesome and fun to watch/do, but don't take out loans for 3,000 dollars and make sure to ride your ninjette for at least 10k miles It's about harm reduction.
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Nov 11, 2016 03:28
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PaintVagrant posted:CA: street racing is awesome and fun to watch/do, but don't take out loans for 3,000 dollars and make sure to ride your ninjette for at least 10k miles You did see that the other newbie, the one who bought a ZX14, already crashed it, right?
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Nov 11, 2016 04:02
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Chichevache posted:You did see that the other newbie, the one who bought a ZX14, already crashed it, right? Yeah he's one upping me at every turn, the son of a bitch
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Nov 11, 2016 05:33
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Chichevache posted:You did see that the other newbie, the one who bought a ZX14, already crashed it, right? I thought it was a low speed/parking tip-over, not an actual crash. Did I miss an update or misread the original post?
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Nov 11, 2016 05:59
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Jazzzzz posted:I thought it was a low speed/parking tip-over, not an actual crash. Did I miss an update or misread the original post? How is having the bike fall over while you're doing walking pace not an actual crash?
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Nov 11, 2016 06:26
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Jazzzzz posted:I thought it was a low speed/parking tip-over, not an actual crash. Did I miss an update or misread the original post? From the way he described it he nearly tore ligaments in his knee while falling over. He didn't pull a Backpanther or an HCC, but he definitely got into a situation he could have avoided with a smaller, more sensible bike.
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Nov 11, 2016 06:32
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Chichevache posted:From the way he described it he nearly tore ligaments in his knee while falling over. He didn't pull a Backpanther or an HCC, but he definitely got into a situation he could have avoided with a smaller, more sensible bike. I don't disagree that it could've been avoided with a smaller bike, but dropping the bike in a parking lot is pretty mild vs. what could've (and still could) happen given he's been riding for < 2 months and went from a Shadow 600 to a ZX-14 Slavvy posted:How is having the bike fall over while you're doing walking pace not an actual crash? To me, parking lot tipovers where you don't actually run into anything don't carry the same weight as target fixating yourself off the side of the road, layer dans at speed, or any of the other myriad Darwin award-level accidents you'd expect from a guy on a ZX-14 that's had his endorsement for a couple of months
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Nov 11, 2016 06:40
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A crash is a crash, but my dividing line between "a crash" and "a bad crash" is when you need a tow truck or an ambulance. If you can get back on and ride it home, it's not that bad. If you get out of it with no injuries, no damage to your gear, and no parts to replace on the bike (just scratches and things you can bend back), then it's an "oopsie"
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Nov 11, 2016 06:46
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Slavvy posted:How is having the bike fall over while you're doing walking pace not an actual crash?
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Nov 11, 2016 14:43
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Motorcycle Question Thread II: When is a crash a crash?
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Nov 11, 2016 22:18
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If a bike crashes in a car park and no one is around to see it, does it count?
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Nov 11, 2016 22:59
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not until you post about it on the internet for other people to make fun of
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Nov 11, 2016 23:12
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Now that the bike is long gone, I can admit to that time that I forgot to put the kickstand down and just hopped off of my SV650. That felt good.
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Nov 12, 2016 03:40
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Frozen Pizza Party posted:Now that the bike is long gone, I can admit to that time that I forgot to put the kickstand down and just hopped off of my SV650. That felt good. When I was in high school, I pulled up in a car at a light behind a ~70ish man on a huge Harley bagger. He came to a stop and just left his feet on the bike and fell over. Me and someone else helped him lift it up and he kept saying "I don't know what happened. I've been riding my whole life, and I just forgot to put my feet down."
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Nov 12, 2016 03:46
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Having ridden a Piaggio MP3 and a bunch of sidecars I can see myself forgetting what I'm on and doing that some day.
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Nov 12, 2016 07:58
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Frozen Pizza Party posted:Now that the bike is long gone, I can admit to that time that I forgot to put the kickstand down and just hopped off of my SV650. That felt good. Nice crash. 
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Nov 12, 2016 09:37
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What's the function of this rubber block on the inside of the side stand? I kind of want to cut it off cause it looks dumb. e: lol that photo looks super weirdly photoshopped. The bike is on the center stand and the sidestand is down, but in midair. It's not touching the ground and is not gigantic.
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Nov 12, 2016 22:33
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Sagebrush posted:What's the function of this rubber block on the inside of the side stand? I kind of want to cut it off cause it looks dumb. Stopper for when you flip up the side stand? Or soak up some vibration while it's up? The two bikes I owned didn't have that.
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Nov 12, 2016 23:03
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