|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:What you're actually holding is a protective sheath, and it looks like that orange and black wire goes into it. From what I dug up, that wire should be grounded to the battery's negative post. Thanks for the replies!! No, I'm an idiot but I can at least do positive and negative right. I've tried the grounding to the post via trapping it under the clamp and I got the all electronics ceased working result so I think I'm gonna look at the fuses tomorrow.
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 04:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 09:46 |
|
|
If everything quit working, check the underhood fuse box. There's some really beefy fuses in there that kill pretty much everything if they blow, but that wire isn't thick enough to carry any substantial amount of current. What happens if you leave that wire disconnected, anything come back to life? Also, did everything die when you tried to start it? If so, a battery clamp is just loose. If everything went to poo poo after hooking that up, but you still had stuff like interior lights, uh..... Unfortunately that's the extent of my knowledge, I've never owned a Focus. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 04:42
|
|
|
I have a 2002 Lexus IS300 sedan with about 135k miles on it. I've had it maintained well, and it usually runs great, smoothly, no problems. But I just got back from a 2 week vacation and I'm encountering a problem after it's sat for 2 weeks. It started up no problem. It drove fine for 10 minutes or so, but when I would stop at a light or idle the whole car shakes and the engine sounds like it's misfiring or not receiving enough fuel or something like that. It sounds like it's a hotrod oddly enough. The check engine light eventually came on, along with the TRAC OFF light for some reason. When it starts doing this I seem to lose about 50% breaking power as well. It was mid 60s when we left and it's mid 30s now. I think it's because it was sitting for two weeks, but what exactly to do now I leave up to you guys suggestions. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 14:53
|
|
|
Which battery brand to avoid, again? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 15:27
|
|
|
yamdankee posted:I have a 2002 Lexus IS300 sedan with about 135k miles on it. I've had it maintained well, and it usually runs great, smoothly, no problems. But I just got back from a 2 week vacation and I'm encountering a problem after it's sat for 2 weeks. It started up no problem. It drove fine for 10 minutes or so, but when I would stop at a light or idle the whole car shakes and the engine sounds like it's misfiring or not receiving enough fuel or something like that. It sounds like it's a hotrod oddly enough. The check engine light eventually came on, along with the TRAC OFF light for some reason. When it starts doing this I seem to lose about 50% breaking power as well. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/59164-help-poss-coil-pack-failure/ quote:I've got a v reg is200 and it has been faultless up until starting it yesterday lunchtime and feeling that the car felt very rough so drove about a mile before the engine management light started flashing at me, decided to head straight to lexus and after another mile the TRC OFF light started flashing at me. got to lexus cardiff and thanks to it being good friday all the techs were down the pub, spoke to one of them on the phone and he suggested it was either water ingress or a coil pack on it's way out. thinking it was a nice day to sit by the roadside with the mrs waiting for the aa we headed off on our 75 mile journey to see the family anyway. lights stayed on and the car felt really sluggish but still went on, i think this has ruled out water as it should have dried out by now. picked up a new coil pack today came to change it so systematically removed one coil pack plug at a time to try and ascertain which was playing up but each time i took one off the car would start then die after a second or so!! need to get back to work in cornwall on monday so my chances of getting a garage to check the codes or getting an obd cable are slim to none at the minute! does anyone have any idea how to find out where the problem is or does anyone have the cable i need and live in south wales!!! all help would be apreciated!!! If you can follow his semi-literate writings, it suggests coil pack is the problem.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 15:43
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Which battery brand to avoid, again? Thanks. Just make sure you get one of the big-names. Or a store brand at a big-name parts store like Autozone. 90% of all the brands out there are made by the same ~3 companies and rebranded. You have to go searching for the poo poo ones. I've actually had a low-tier store brand from O'Reilly in the Corvette since 2008. It hasn't skipped a beat, somehow. Already replaced the OE battery in the 2012 Jeep, though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 16:56
|
|
|
Duralast gold is Johnson controls and recommend them. The Exide ones are usually pretty bad.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 17:51
|
|
|
I get filthy at work, and would like to keep my (new to me) car from getting too filthy. Seat covers and floor mats seem easy enough to find. But does there exist a cover of some sort that can protect the arm rest on the driver door? Searching for an arm rest cover just brings up protection for the center console arm rest. For an '07 Outback, if it matters. It's not the end of the world if I just have to worry about cleaning that one arm rest, but I'm curious and obviously a cover of some sort would help me out. Also, any input/experience on seat covers and floor mats/pans are welcome. Also, I should probably get some winter tires. There are summer tires on there now, and we just got our first flurry of snow in my part of New York. All my previous cars have had all seasons. Are Blizzaks an AI approved winter tire? Rotten Cookies fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Nov 21, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:07
|
|
|
Find someone with a sewing machine to mutilate a pillowcase for you?  It'd be a very easy modification to make.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:25
|
|
|
There are a billion things you can use to keep it clean. Even the Armor-All cleaning wipes (not the shine ones) work well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:35
|
|
|
Sorry, I don't think I came off the right way in that post that this is more out of curiosity if anything like that is made. I know that it's gonna come down to me just givin' the car a wipedown, I'm just wondering.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:41
|
|
|
Rotten Cookies posted:Also, I should probably get some winter tires. There are summer tires on there now, and we just got our first flurry of snow in my part of New York. All my previous cars have had all seasons. Are Blizzaks an AI approved winter tire? Not emptyquoting because I'm curious too. I'm sure that most brands are fine, but are there any to definitely avoid?
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 21:42
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm paranoid after my timing chain failure at 50,000mi (I'm at 60 now)but I swear I'm hearing some clickity-clackity from the right side of my 3.5l ecoboost F150 engine. It seems to occur when I've got the pedal about 1/3 way depressed and held and seems to possibly be related to boost (when cold). Also, it seems to hesitate and studder when I do this. Christobevii3 posted:See if your f150 has a tab for transmission separator plate with dealer I heard it again and I'm pretty sure that if it's not the cam chain again, then it's probably something to do with the cam phaser. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow for an oil change and diagnosis. I have a coupon, but also I'm super busy with Thanksgiving cooking and don't have time to figure this poo poo out. Don't judge me for not changing my own oil. Besides, they were the last ones to touch my engine so I'm not gonna add any doubt that it's their fault if there's another cam chain problem. EDIT: OH GOD PLEASE NO! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pNqZA7z8X0&t=184s Mine's not that bad. It's only a light clickity-clackity noise right off boost when it's cold. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Nov 21, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
Rotten Cookies posted:Are Blizzaks an AI approved winter tire? "Winter tire" can mean different things in different places from what I understand. I am assuming that you are talking about tires specialized for grip on snow and ice? I dunno if there's an AI hivemind when it comes to winter tires. I've researched the Swedish market enough to make an informed purchase for this winter. FWIW, winter tires is Serious Business in these parts, subject of heated debates and strong opinions. Every year there's like three or four fairly extensive tire tests carried out by car magazines and the like. Among the studless tires I keep seeing top performance scores for Nokian Hakkapeliita R2, Pirelli Ice Zero FR, Michelin X-Ice X13 , Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice2 and Continental Conti Viking Contact 6, which leads me to believe that you won't go far wrong with any of those. I can find a description of a test from 2015 that featured bridgestone blizzak ws70 among the other usual suspects. Unfortunately the test results are behind a paywall, but if you wanna shell out 30 SEK (a bit over $3US) you could enlighten us all with what is says. I'd be glad to translate if google should prove unhelpful. Linky: http://www.vibilagare.se/test/dack/dacktest-2015-friktionsdack My guess is that bridgestone's winter tires are most likely fine, probably way better than your average all-seasons, but perhaps not the best money can buy on snow and ice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 22:24
|
|
|
Anecdote is not data. However, I used Blizzak WS-60 and WS-70 in Vermont over five years, and they worked great on my awd BMWs. My Dad used Hakkapelitas for a number of years on the Suburban, and those are great. My stance is that unless you're doing some sort of extreme driving, any of the top brands will have a good winter tire. Since I'm now outside of Philly, I put on all seasons instead of summers, and plan to not drive in substantial snow, which we don't really get down here. The first two winters I had the Blizzaks from my time in Vermont, but they get pretty greasy above 45* or so, and that's more of a PA problem than a VT problem.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 22:58
|
|
|
I mean "cold, dry weather with little to moderate snow" for winter tires and "very cold weather, moderate to deep snow" for snow tires. I suppose that it does have to be stated since they are regional terms that are often used interchangeably
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 23:40
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:I mean "cold, dry weather with little to moderate snow" for winter tires and "very cold weather, moderate to deep snow" for snow tires. It doesn't matter greatly if there's a lot of snow or a little, if there's just enough on the road to prevent your rubber from making good contact with the pavement, you're left with very little friction if your tires don't have the tread and rubber compound needed to grip the snow rather than the road surface. My opinion is that if you can reasonably expect to ever need to drive on any amount of snow or ice at any pace even beginning to approach the legal speed limit, you should probably have tires on that can handle those conditions well. And even if snow might be an obvious signal to slow way down, ice can take you by surprise. It also makes sense to me to use tires that will perform the best when conditions are the worst, even if you sacrifice grip when conditions are better - it will probably be enough anyways. Then again my opinion is probably formed by my driving style, paranoia for the safety of my family and by my environment. Most drivers in this world seem to make do just fine without ever changing between summer and winter sets after all. I just figure that if you're gonna go through the hassle of owning two sets of wheels and doing the bi-annual swap, why not go for summer tires that are optimized for warm, wet roads and a winter set that can handle snow well? It's not like a set of real snow tires are terrible on dry roads as long as the temperature is low enough. They're not all that expensive either.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 00:33
|
|
|
Invalido posted:It doesn't matter greatly if there's a lot of snow or a little, if there's just enough on the road to prevent your rubber from making good contact with the pavement, you're left with very little friction if your tires don't have the tread and rubber compound needed to grip the snow rather than the road surface. While mostly true, there is a difference between them. Snow tires historically have a lower speed rating and generally have a higher level of NVH, making them undesirable if your primary use of the car is to go at highway speeds on dry, salted roads. No matter what, the most important thing is the temp rating, but the choice between snow and winter is more of a comfort one based on how you drive and where you live
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 01:25
|
|
|
Question- I bought a new car, a Toyota hybrid. At the very end of the sales there was a huge discussion of an extended warranty package (7 year and like 80k miles) for about $1500. This was an extension that pretty much covered everything. The big push of the argument was about how complicated the cars are, how many parts there are, how some basic work like a heater fix took like 20 hours (NOT KIDDING - I hope that I misheard that) to replace. I declined the coverage but was informed I had 24 hours if I change my mind. Do you guys think I did the right thing?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 03:50
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:Question- I bought a new car, a Toyota hybrid. At the very end of the sales there was a huge discussion of an extended warranty package (7 year and like 80k miles) for about $1500. Why pay $1500 dollars now for repairs you may never make?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 03:51
|
|
|
Big ticket items that are traditionally expensive, like emissions, are covered by standard warranties from manufacturers anyway. And you're good for the next 5? years on the battery, as it's an emissions item. Save the $1500 and budget it for future nickle and dime stuff ten years from now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
That's sort of what I figured - stash away some money each year as a car breakdown fund. The traction battery as well as charge controller and inverters are covered for 8 year 100k miles. Unfortunately the big 750V, three-phase MGs are under drivetrain which is a slightly shorter warranty.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 04:08
|
|
|
I just bought a 2010 Malibu LS base model. The car is fine and I just want to update the stereo. Is there a place online where I can buy an overall upgrade on the speakers without putting much thought into it?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 04:28
|
|
|
dead gay son posted:I just bought a 2010 Malibu LS base model. The car is fine and I just want to update the stereo. Is there a place online where I can buy an overall upgrade on the speakers without putting much thought into it? Crutchfield
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 04:46
|
|
|
I just wanted to take a moment to make a little statement: I can't believe how much more comfortable a ride is going from 15" wheels to 17" wheels. That is all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 04:48
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:Question- I bought a new car, a Toyota hybrid. At the very end of the sales there was a huge discussion of an extended warranty package (7 year and like 80k miles) for about $1500. This was an extension that pretty much covered everything. I can pretty much guarantee that you'd have a huge list of items not covered, and a deductible for even thinking about repairs. FWIW, a coworker has a 2006 Prius with about 250k, which he bought with about 50k. The hybrid battery was replaced by Toyota under warranty around 80k or 90k. The only expensive repair he's had so far was the brake accumulator - from what he told me it was basically an electrically-assisted brake power booster. It was about $2500 at the dealer. He still goes to the dealer for most work, and for some strange reason, they've goodwilled a lot of stuff that dealers don't normally goodwill. Don't know if he's giving his service advisor really good head or what, but even general maintenance has been on par with most independent shops for him. My mom got her car from the same dealer and got absolutely raped on everything she ever took it in for.  He's stayed on top of maintenance though. The only issue it currently has is the touchscreen quit working recently. And yes... heater cores are a complete bitch to replace... on ANY car. But so long as you do regular maintenance (especially fluid changes), the only expensive repair you'll run into on it will be the hybrid battery. And that'll have a pretty long warranty anyway (longer in some states). Sometimes they last 50k, sometimes they last 500k+ (usually at least 150k). And uh... being an industrial electrician (or EE?), I'm pretty sure you could rebuild the hybrid pack yourself when it eventually does fail. It's usually just a handful of cells that fail. 250-300V DC isn't something I'd like to gently caress with without some good gloves and insulated tools, but I'm sure you've got stuff rated for far higher voltages.  Metal Geir Skogul posted:Big ticket items that are traditionally expensive, like emissions, are covered by standard warranties from manufacturers anyway. And you're good for the next 5? years on the battery, as it's an emissions item. Hybrid batteries, at least with Toyota, are covered anywhere from 100-150k depending on the state the car was sold/operated in. And Toyota has often goodwilled at least part of the cost when they fail outside of warranty. The batteries aren't that difficult to rebuild, so long as you're comfortable around higher (DC!) voltages and have good insulated tools. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Nov 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 07:28
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:The big push of the argument was about how complicated the cars are, how many parts there are, how some basic work like a heater fix took like 20 hours (NOT KIDDING - I hope that I misheard that) to replace. What that makes me think: 20 hours is an absolute worst‐case scenario, if that. A good independent shop could probably do it in much less time, so would the dealer, in most cases. As an example, Toyota’s service manual says the gen II Prius bumper needs to be removed to replace the headlights. With small hands and a little practice, it can be done in three minutes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Er0oEHNUfQs Besides, in general, I don’t recommend betting against yourself. Insurance is important for things that are unlikely but catastrophic. Is your house going to burn down in the next year? Probably not, but if it does you likely can’t replace it out of pocket. So get insurance. You probably can afford to repair your car, in the unlikely event something major breaks and in the extended warranty coverage window, especially with the $1500 you save (+interest) as a downpayment.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 08:25
|
|
|
A question that may be stupid: Why do diesels sound different to petrol engines?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 09:43
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:Why do diesels sound different to petrol engines?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 10:07
|
|
|
Invalido posted:A different fuel is injected differently and ignited differently at higher compression. Better answer: http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12036/why-does-a-diesel-sound-like-that Makes sense. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 12:32
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:And yes... heater cores are a complete bitch to replace... on ANY car. I beat alldata/mitchell book time by 1/3 (4hr instead of 6) on my first try with my old jeep (bet I could do it in 3 if I did it again), and the J10's heater core looks like it will take about 35 minutes because it is under the hood like a lot of older ford pickups. On the other hand, I hear volvo 240s are basically built around the heater core.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 14:19
|
|
|
kastein posted:I beat alldata/mitchell book time by 1/3 (4hr instead of 6) on my first try with my old jeep (bet I could do it in 3 if I did it again), and the J10's heater core looks like it will take about 35 minutes because it is under the hood like a lot of older ford pickups. The old Ford ranger took like ten minutes if you went slow. Any new Ford takes multiple whisky shots and 6+ hours.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 15:47
|
|
|
kastein posted:On the other hand, I hear volvo 240s are basically built around the heater core. I think replacing it only gets truly horrible if you have luxury extravagances like air conditioning and cruise control, things a good socialist Swedish worker would never dream of having in their car. It may be that Volvo engineered it on purpose to be more difficult to maintain and repair the bourgeois capitalist version.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 16:40
|
|
|
clam ache posted:Its a very easy job on the escape. but the way the noise changes when you switch directions makes me also think wheel bearing. Had to do the same thing to my wifes escape. The wheel bearings are cheap but you need a press to change them. Most shops will charge a case of beer if you just bring them the hubs and bearings. And your already in there to do the axle and will have to retorque the axle nut. Thanks! It was the wheel bearing 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 17:02
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I heard it again and I'm pretty sure that if it's not the cam chain again, then it's probably something to do with the cam phaser. Dealership fixed it this morning. They said the valve cover was loose (and the plastics around the engine) from when they fixed my timing chain. $60 and I got a tire rotation and oil change. On the upside they fixed my stuck caliper for free.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 17:05
|
|
|
Yeah I've worked live around 800V and 4160V. I still treat the 250V battery bank with great respect. I have class 00 gloves that are good live to I think 500Vac. Replacing individual cells or cleaning corroded busbars is very do-able. I'd just be concerned about making sure replacement cells were matched/balanced. The motors and inverters are up to 750V permanent magnet three-phase and I'm assuming there's a volts/hertz relationship with both the output from and regenerative input to the inverter. I wish the car had displays for voltage, current, and frequency at the MGs. And bearing vibration... I'd also like to see if at some point I can disconnect the inverter to the motor and megger all the phases of the motor to the motor case. Just as long as I don't screw up and blow out all the cars electronics. Get a feel for the condition of the stator windings. Just to recap two things are on my mind: - Busbar corrosion - Motor/generator life (stator, rotor, and bearings) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Nov 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2016 01:39
|
|
|
Being paranoid... This replacement bolt washer combo is suitable for the OEM flange bolt right? Throttle body mount
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2016 02:11
|
|
|
That will be fine but you might curse yourself for not being able to fit a drat socket on it past the bumps in the casting. The small head is likely there for a reason.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2016 02:52
|
|
|
Don't those bolts need to have the same or stronger rating? Like this pattern of bumps on the head?
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2016 03:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 09:46 |
|
|
Three-Phase posted:Yeah I've worked live around 800V and 4160V. I still treat the 250V battery bank with great respect. I have class 00 gloves that are good live to I think 500Vac. Replacing individual cells or cleaning corroded busbars is very do-able. I'd just be concerned about making sure replacement cells were matched/balanced. Motor/gen life can be helped by doing CVT fluid changes. Toyota claims lifetime fluid for the Prius (or did at one point), but I've also seen horror stories about the CVT failing if you don't change the fluid. I would assume it gets a bit acidic as it ages and could start eating the insulation on the windings, and a lot of people have had the fluid analyzed by labs - consensus seems to be to change it every 50k. From my limited understanding, it's very rare for the motor/gen set to fail, but it does happen. It seems to be cheaper to just replace the entire unit with a junkyard unit instead of rebuilding/rewinding. There's also plenty of companies out there that will rebuild the HV battery pack with matched cells, you just send them your original back as the core. I believe most of the electronics run on 12V. The car won't even power up without the 12V battery connected, though the motor/gen also acts as a starter for the engine, so the 12V battery is tiny. The electronics are advanced enough to detect an issue with the stator, and will throw a code for "high voltage leak" (usually) before you notice any drivability issues. That's pretty much everything I know about them though, and all of my knowledge is gleaned from several friends who own them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2016 03:29
|
|