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Volcott posted:Oh, anyone happen to know how large the windows 10 ISO is, off the top of their heads? Not positive on this, but my installer usb is ~3.3GB
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Nov 25, 2016 22:26
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Alright then, thanks.
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Nov 25, 2016 22:43
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Hi PC-Building Thread. Between a new job and the Black Friday Weekend sales, want to get a new computer. In USA, intent is a budget-y ($550-700 range) gaming setup running poo poo on low-medium quality. Waiting to hear back from a friend on a separate monitor deal, assume nothing overly large/fancy for resolution. Bumbled in PCPartPicker for 30 minutes while staring at the recommended guidelines in the OPs, came up with this and wanted it looked over/vetted/improved-on by people who actually know what they're talking about : PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($104.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($68.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 4GB GAMING X Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($27.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($58.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.58 @ OutletPC) Total: $645.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 17:05 EST-0500
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Nov 25, 2016 23:10
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I'm close to pulling the trigger on this and wanted some thoughts before doing so. I've a few concerns and questions: I've never had to install a 3rd party cooler before. Will I need to purchase Artic Silver as well? I've also heard that the 212 in particular is huge. It seems like i'd be fine with this case and mobo but I wanted a second opinion. I've also no experience at all with this case. My last couple builds have been with Corsair cases. Are they well designed for cable management and the like? This motherboard apparently supports up to DDR4-3400 which is super expensive. However, DDR4-3200 seems reasonable in price. Is there enough of a performance increase in choosing 3200 over 2400? I've been seeing conflicting things online. Windows 10 Home because I looked at the Win 10 Pro features and I think my only experience with them involve seeing the word "Bitlocker" once or twice. Aside from the 850 Evo I'll be bringing along a couple other HDDs so space in that regard shouldn't be an issue. Details below: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.18 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.78 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($148.38 @ Amazon) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($68.47 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.18 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.58 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($98.56 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (Already owned) Total: $718.13 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 17:03 EST-0500 What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? $750ish is my max (not counting the parts I've already bought, obviously.) I'd, of course, not mind if I could cut some corners somewhere and still be okay. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? I'm currently gaming on a 1080p monitor but that is next in line to be upgraded (to 1440p, probably) some time after this is done. My goal is to be able to play graphics intensive games at their higher settings for as long as possible. Sankis fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 25, 2016 23:12
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Archenteron posted:Hi PC-Building Thread. Between a new job and the Black Friday Weekend sales, want to get a new computer. In USA, intent is a budget-y ($550-700 range) gaming setup running poo poo on low-medium quality. Waiting to hear back from a friend on a separate monitor deal, assume nothing overly large/fancy for resolution. Bumbled in PCPartPicker for 30 minutes while staring at the recommended guidelines in the OPs, came up with this and wanted it looked over/vetted/improved-on by people who actually know what they're talking about : The only red flag I see is the storage.  Get an SSD!
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Nov 25, 2016 23:31
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Any black friday deals for graphics cards stand out? Also monitors. I suppose i could use something bigger than 1280x1040. Thinking of moving up from an HD 5850. It runs what i need it to, but its still getting old and clunky.
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Nov 25, 2016 23:36
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Frijolero posted:The only red flag I see is the storage. Actually planned on getting one the subsequent paycheck. Still want the HDD for all my music, and an acceptible sized SSD would be another 120-150 that I won't have. That plan seem OK?
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Nov 25, 2016 23:59
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I'm going to doublecheck this stuff on Cyber Monday, but how's this look? I need a case, but I'm not sure what to get. I figure the stock cooler will be okay since the 6100 doesn't overclock. The end budget is $750, I'll need to check whether that's before or after rebates. The main thing I see is if the prices drop lower, maybe upgrading either to an i5 6500 or GTX 1060, but I'm not sure which would make more of a difference. Or maybe the monitor is no good, I'm not sure. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($104.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($42.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ B&H) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($139.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ My Choice Software) Monitor: Asus VC239H 23.0" 60Hz Monitor ($90.98 @ Newegg) Total: $714.68 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 18:03 EST-0500 E: VeryLargeRadish in the Monitor thread said maybe this monitor instead? http://pcpartpicker.com/product/vLh9TW/asus-monitor-vn248hp $99, so that's not much of a difference. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 00:03
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Sankis posted:I'm close to pulling the trigger on this and wanted some thoughts before doing so. I've a few concerns and questions: You will get thermal paste with the cooler. You can use Arctic Silver if you want though. quote:I've also heard that the 212 in particular is huge. It seems like i'd be fine with this case and mobo but I wanted a second opinion. R5 is a big case. It'll fit. quote:I've also no experience at all with this case. My last couple builds have been with Corsair cases. Are they well designed for cable management and the like? They are easy to build in and they have cable tie points everywhere. And velcro straps. quote:This motherboard apparently supports up to DDR4-3400 which is super expensive. However, DDR4-3200 seems reasonable in price. Is there enough of a performance increase in choosing 3200 over 2400? I've been seeing conflicting things online. No idea. I always just bought whatever was cheap. quote:Windows 10 Home because I looked at the Win 10 Pro features and I think my only experience with them involve seeing the word "Bitlocker" once or twice. If you are not a sysadmin, go home.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:06
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So an interesting situation. I put my current rig together in 2010 and its definitely showing its age, despite a few video card upgrades over the last couple years to try to keep it current. I recently got a pretty nice recognition bonus at work and am looking to use it to put together a new computer, with the proviso that everything needs to come from Amazon. I've got essentially $1400 I can use, but I"m not afraid of putting in $100 or so of after-bonus money. I'm looking at picking up the following build and wanted some expert goon opinions. Use is primarily gaming, though I tend to not play the latest and greatest games, instead waiting a couple years to pick them up on sale. I've got a pair of 1920x1080 monitors, and I don't game above that resolution. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($307.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($87.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($258.05 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($420.81 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair 750D Airflow Edition ATX Full Tower Case ($138.68 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.24 @ Amazon) Total: $1343.75 (Actual price for all these components on Amazon: ~$1470. Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 17:58 EST-0500
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Nov 26, 2016 00:08
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bgreman posted:So an interesting situation. I put my current rig together in 2010 and its definitely showing its age, despite a few video card upgrades over the last couple years to try to keep it current. I recently got a pretty nice recognition bonus at work and am looking to use it to put together a new computer, with the proviso that everything needs to come from Amazon. I've got essentially $1400 I can use, but I"m not afraid of putting in $100 or so of after-bonus money. I'm looking at picking up the following build and wanted some expert goon opinions. Check the last page, that specific video card is $409 today on Newegg and comes with a free game.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:17
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Malloc Voidstar posted:What's the current state of SLI? Would it be reasonable for me to buy another 980 Ti ($300) for SLI or wait and hope the 1080 Ti is ~$600? It won't be $600. The rumors are that the 1080Ti will be closer to $999, which makes no sense seeing as the Titan XP is $200 more, and if you're willing to pay $1000 for a graphics card, you're probably willing to pay $1200.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:18
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Jesus graphics cards are expensive these days. Back when AGP was the poo poo and 3DFX was king, I don't remember the card costing more than everything else in my computer combined.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:22
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Fuzz posted:Check the last page, that specific video card is $409 today on Newegg and comes with a free game. It's actually $409 on Amazon as well right now, though I don't see a free game code. Unfortunately, I basically have $1400 in Amazon gift cards to use for this.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:28
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It's usually hard to recommend SLI, but if you're looking to pair a 980ti to another for $299 I'd be tempted. You'll beat a 1080 in any title that supports and scales with SLI well, though only you know if what you'll play needs that.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:32
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bgreman posted:It's actually $409 on Amazon as well right now, though I don't see a free game code. Unfortunately, I basically have $1400 in Amazon gift cards to use for this. If you're referring to the Watch Dogs 2 code, if it's anything like the WD2 code for the 850 EVO, you don't see that you qualify for it until the final checkout page - it mentions it under the box where you choose your payment method.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:32
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Archenteron posted:Actually planned on getting one the subsequent paycheck. Still want the HDD for all my music, and an acceptible sized SSD would be another 120-150 that I won't have. That plan seem OK? You are pretty drastically overestimating SSD prices. It's like $60-80 for a 250 gig SSD, and you can still keep the HDD for your music, just use them alongside one another.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:36
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Cat Army 
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Fuzz posted:Check the last page, that specific video card is $409 today on Newegg and comes with a free game. Hey, that was the card I was looking at a couple days ago. I've used EVGA vid cards in the past and not had a problem with them, they're one of the best companies, aren't they? So far I've got this: CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($409.99 @ Newegg) Plus that 1TB EVO from yesterday's deal. Total: $824.96 ($1075 with SSD) Now I guess I just need to figure out a power supply, a case, and maybe a cooler/fan for the CPU. Any comments or suggestions on those or what I've got? As far as cases go, I don't really need anything fancy. Just a competent gaming computer that'll last 3-5 years on a budget of ~$1200 (sans monitor/peripherals) Man, I feel so outdated in my knowledge. Once I get this stuff figured out I can mosey on over to the monitor thread to be overwhelmed there instead. 
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Nov 26, 2016 00:42
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Archenteron posted:Actually planned on getting one the subsequent paycheck. Still want the HDD for all my music, and an acceptible sized SSD would be another 120-150 that I won't have. That plan seem OK? Buy the SSD first then buy the data drive next month or whatever. Less overall hassle and you get a quicker setup and install of everything, and a speedy new system feel on your speedy new system.
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Nov 26, 2016 00:46
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Verviticus posted:keeping in mind that i already have a GTX 970 and 850 EVO hanging out in a much older computer that i would transfer to this one, how do these parts look last check to make sure theres nothing obivously wrong with this before i order it
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Nov 26, 2016 01:13
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Verviticus posted:last check to make sure theres nothing obivously wrong with this before i order it Other than potentially saving some money going with the 6600K, it seems fine to me. And the PSU isn't overkill - any reason you decided against the Corsair RMx 550W?
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Nov 26, 2016 01:19
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So about two months ago you guys helped me get this build for my wife, and so far it has been amazing. She loves it. Thank you for your help!Neo_Crimson posted:I made some adjustments, and managed to shave down about $200. Now I want something similar for myself, but I think I can use some parts from my old computer. So I'm thinking of buying these: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($190.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($102.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($249.00 @ B&H) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.58 @ OutletPC) Total: $628.46 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 19:08 EST-0500 And I already own. Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Power Supply: XFX XTR Series P1-650B-BEFX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Monitor: BenQ GL2460HM Black 24" TN 2ms (GTG) LCD/LED Monitor, 250 cd/m2 DCR 12,000,000:1 (1000:1), Built-in Speakers, VESA Mountable, HDMI DVI Case: A big case that I'm sure is fine. I have three questions: 1. Any new releases/pricing/sales happen in the last two months that would change this build? 2. Are all the parts that I currently own compatible with the new parts? 3. Should I wait because something amazing is on the horizon?
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Nov 26, 2016 01:29
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Other than potentially saving some money going with the 6600K, it seems fine to me. And the PSU isn't overkill - any reason you decided against the Corsair RMx 550W? NCIX doesnt seem to really have them in vancouver and its also ~$50 more - is it that much better than a seasonic of the same wattage? thank you for taking a look Verviticus fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 02:15
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Kubrick posted:I have three questions: 2. Yes. Although you should make super totally sure that your existing ram is DDR4, because no system more than a couple years old has DDR4 in it. Is that power supply several years old? If it's 5+ years old and out of warranty the standard advice would be to replace it just to be safe, since if it dies it could potentially damage other parts in the system. 3. Nah
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Nov 26, 2016 02:28
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WanderingKid posted:Jesus graphics cards are expensive these days. Back when AGP was the poo poo and 3DFX was king, I don't remember the card costing more than everything else in my computer combined. Graphics cards were a lot less powerful and important back in the day, relative to the CPU. If you build a Skylake processor/1070 computer now, the GPU die is almost 4x the size the CPU. A 1070 is 314mm^2, a desktop Skylake is about 80mm^2 not counting the integrated GPU, and 122mm^2 with. Back in the day, they were closer to 1:1. In short, GPUs have gotten relatively more expensive because a GPU with twice as much stuff on it is roughly twice as powerful, so scaling up is always an option. The same isn't true of CPUs.
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Nov 26, 2016 02:42
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6600k feels slower than a 4.2 2500k. Jeez
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Nov 26, 2016 03:16
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I can never remember if microphone questions go in here. Is the zalman still the go-to for cheap add on microphones if I already have decent headphones? Mine finally died after 3-4 years.
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Nov 26, 2016 03:18
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Verviticus posted:NCIX doesnt seem to really have them in vancouver and its also ~$50 more - is it that much better than a seasonic of the same wattage? Other than the Corsair being fully modular and having a ten year warranty versus the Seasonic being semi-modular and having a five or seven year warranty (not sure which), I'd say they're comparable in other respects.
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Nov 26, 2016 03:20
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OK so I havnt built a new PC in pretty much 6 years and I have definitely not kept up with whats what so Im kind of winging it here and would appreciate any and all input: CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 ($299.99 @ NCIX) Motherboard: MSi Z170A Gaming M5 ATX ($209.99 @ NCIX) Memory: Corsair Vengeance Lpx 16GB (2x8) DDR4 3200MHz ($147.98 @ NCIX) Power: Corsair CS650M 80+ Gold Certified 650W ($94.98 @ NCIX) Video Card: MSi Radeon RX 480 8GB ($389.99 @ NCIX) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB ($199.99 @ NCIX) Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT ($379.99 @ NCIX) Total: $1722.91 Im like $200 over my budget, and some of this either isnt on sale or has a negligible one but I took it due to availability (a big problem when you live in  apparently). I could make that up if video cards were actually on sale.  e: I can shave some money off going for a cheaper mobo (http://www.ncix.com/detail/msi-z170a-sli-plus-atx-66-126208.htm?promoid=1243 $139.99) and dropping to a 250GB SSD (Im not sure what I would use it for other than Windows and a tiny number of games). Would this be fine? Furnaceface fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 04:04
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Furnaceface posted:OK so I havnt built a new PC in pretty much 6 years and I have definitely not kept up with whats what so Im kind of winging it here and would appreciate any and all input: So, I couldn't select just NCIX as a merchant without creating a PCPP account, but here is a sans-monitor barebones skeleton that comes in just under budget (about $50-100) and that you can add to as you want. Your alternate motherboard is fine to replace the one I used, but I would leave the PSU alone here -- it's not much more than your original choice, and it is better. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($134.99 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.97 @ NCIX) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg Canada) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card ($185.64 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.98 @ DirectCanada) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ NCIX) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($117.98 @ DirectCanada) Total: $1018.53 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-25 23:09 EST-0500 Upgrade paths: (1) Better processor. I selected a very basic i3 for now, but the Z170 chipset of your motherboard will allow you to use k-series (unlocked) CPUs like the i5-6600k. These let you overclock the processor and eke out another year+ of performance from the CPU before it needs replacing. The i3 will probably be okay (not amazing, though) for gaming for the foreseeable future -- at least long enough for the next generation of Intel chips to come out. So you could move this to an 6600k now (don't forget to buy a CPU cooler, since the k-series chips don't include one!), or you could wait for Kaby Lake and upgrade then. The i3 might be resellable for a decent amount of what you originally paid for it, reducing the cost of the upgrade. (2) GPU: the 1050 Ti will perform fine (again, not amazing) at 1080p. But the monitor you've selected is 1440. If you only want to run medium graphics and don't need a constant 60fps, the 1060 6GB is probably the right step up. If you have your heart set on high/ultra, and good framerates to boot, you should move to the 1070 series. Sorry I can't do more for you. Hopefully this gives you a framework to decide where you can save money and where you should be spending to achieve your desired performance. Edit to add: I don't think there are any significant differences between brands of GPU, RAM, and motherboard for your purposes. You should be able to get away with whatever is least expensive that still has the same base identifier (e.g. 1060, Z170, DDR4-3000+). Grundulum fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 05:23
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Khablam posted:Buy the SSD first then buy the data drive next month or whatever. Less overall hassle and you get a quicker setup and install of everything, and a speedy new system feel on your speedy new system. This^ Installing your OS on the SSD will make the whole process so much better. You can keep everything on an external or in an old PC in the meantime. I've used a measly 120GB SSD for about 3 years now. 
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Nov 26, 2016 05:32
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Actually that does help, thank you. I only used NCIX for everything because I have an account there (also TigerDirect but theyve been bad lately for prices/stock), but they have price matching so its not a total loss. With regards to the monitor, there is a lower resolution version thats cheaper that fits my need just fine since, as you properly guessed, Im not upset playing on medium settings. I think I can tinker to get it a bit lower going off that though so I do appreciate it. e: Thanks to you I got this thing low enough to buy Win10 as well 
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Nov 26, 2016 05:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm going to doublecheck this stuff on Cyber Monday, but how's this look? I need a case, but I'm not sure what to get. I figure the stock cooler will be okay since the 6100 doesn't overclock. The end budget is $750, I'll need to check whether that's before or after rebates. The main thing I see is if the prices drop lower, maybe upgrading either to an i5 6500 or GTX 1060, but I'm not sure which would make more of a difference. Or maybe the monitor is no good, I'm not sure. Since you have a Z170 Motherboard you can pick up DDR4-3000 ram for $7 more, which has been shown to have a not-insignificant performance increase. Some argument could be made for going to 16 gigs as well. Also, I don't know about the goodness of Rosewill PSUs, but thread favorites EVGA SuperNOVA and RM550x offer a better warranty/price ratio for only $15/25 more. I'm waiting to see if there aren't better deals on the 1050ti in a few months, so I can't really speak to the (in)sufficiency of the CPU or GPU, though I'd go with a 6600k if you do decide to upgrade the CPU.
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Nov 26, 2016 06:10
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EDIT: Wrong thread. Disregard.
BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 06:22
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So, a few years ago I built this PC with the help of a friend (I am pretty ignorant when it comes to hardware). Recently I started to have some weird issues that may or may not relate to a hardware problem (I'm still trying to figure it out), but either way it got me thinking about the possibility of upgrading. As mentioned, however, I am fairly ignorant about this stuff and have a hard time figuring out when it's worthwhile to upgrade which parts. Games are the only thing I really do that puts much stress on the PC, and at this point I haven't really had too many issues running anything (the aforementioned issue excluded, since I don't think this is the right thread to ask about that in), so maybe it's not worth upgrading at all yet. But given that there are a lot of sales right now, I thought it was still an opportune time to ask. Anyway, here's the screenshot I took in Speccy: And I'm in Canada, if it matters, although I'm not really worried about picking out specific parts right now, just whether upgrading seems worthwhile. Thanks in advance to anyone who can give advice.
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Nov 26, 2016 06:56
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Viscardus posted:So, a few years ago I built this PC with the help of a friend (I am pretty ignorant when it comes to hardware). Recently I started to have some weird issues that may or may not relate to a hardware problem (I'm still trying to figure it out), but either way it got me thinking about the possibility of upgrading. As mentioned, however, I am fairly ignorant about this stuff and have a hard time figuring out when it's worthwhile to upgrade which parts. Games are the only thing I really do that puts much stress on the PC, and at this point I haven't really had too many issues running anything (the aforementioned issue excluded, since I don't think this is the right thread to ask about that in), so maybe it's not worth upgrading at all yet. But given that there are a lot of sales right now, I thought it was still an opportune time to ask. Anyway, here's the screenshot I took in Speccy: Buy a 2x8GB DDR3 kit while they're still similarly priced with DDR4 (~$20 more expensive since the stock is wearing thin on DDR3), a new PSU if yours is off-warranty or close to it, and depending on your budget or future monitor resolution, a 1060 or 1070. That's pretty much it. ...maybe a newer SSD, too. A 256-512GB Samsung or Sandisk X400. EDIT: It'd also help to know how much you've overclocked your 2500K, if any. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 07:04
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I know SA-Mart would be the obvious place to ask, but since many of you are building new rigs it can't hurt to ask here... anyone have any DDR3 RAM they won't have any use for anymore? Was hoping to maybe swap out my existing DIMMs for some 2133Hz at the same 16 gigs or maybe more... could go pick some up new for $90, but I figure an awesome goon might have some (that isn't burnt out) they no longer need and would be willing to sell for cheap.BIG HEADLINE posted:EDIT: It'd also help to know how much you've overclocked your 2500K, if any. He hasn't. At all. That right there would be a HUGE performance boost, get a decent cooler and jack that sucker up to 4.4+ Edit: I lied, my mobo doesn't support 2400. Fuzz fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 09:20
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Just ordered all the stuff other than the video card, I'll get that at a later date. Thanks again.
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Nov 26, 2016 09:32
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Hello PC builders. I'm looking to build my first gaming PC and I've been staring at this thread and PCPartPicker for the past few days figuring out how to come up with something below $1k, with the lower the better. I live in Hawaii so I've been trying to limit my purchases to things with low/free shipping so usually this means ordering from NewEgg or Amazon so far. Was wondering if there was anything else I could do to shave more off the total price tag or if there was anything critical I might be missing. Already have a 1920x1080 monitor. Was wondering if the 1050Ti would be a better value than the 1060? EDIT: Redid this while sticking to Amazon because it turns out that no matter how many discounts I might get from Newegg, I'll still pay more overall because they charge me for shipping on every single item PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($191.91 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.53 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($77.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($84.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Dual Video Card ($154.99 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($47.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($17.75 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Total: $901.12 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-26 09:18 EST-0500 VStraken fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 10:11
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Am I going to have any issues putting a 1060 onto a 6 year old ASUS M4A87TD EVO with a Phenom II x955? PCPart picker says no but I would like to hear it from another source 
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Nov 26, 2016 10:50
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