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I keep getting told to get real boots (in this thread and elsewhere), then I google hiking boots for biking and see the 17 quintillion threads on that topic on various websites, then I see read various descriptions of injuries with accompanying pictures, then I want to keep these boots, then I wear them and see how inconvenient it will be. Rinse, repeat.
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Nov 30, 2016 22:38
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Keket posted:Bought new boots, being an idiot didn't break them in properly and went for a long hike. fine all the way heading out, coming back it started to feel like someone was taking a steak knife to the back of my ankle. You bought the wrong boots mate. I mean you'll break em in and they will eventually stop cutting you up, but eventually you need to find the pair that you can do 10 mile ruck with pack and not even have the slightest irritation. For me its Belleville 340 boots. They make a non-flight variant that is cheaper and the same exact thing but its not fireproofed or flame retardant. I don't mind paying 140 bucks for a pair because they last about 2 years before they need resoled. It took me about 4 years of buying boots every year to find the ones that work.
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Nov 30, 2016 22:44
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I may have missed you explaining this before, but why not just get a small tail bag to put proper hiking boots in and change shoes when you get to where you're going?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:40
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Deeters posted:I may have missed you explaining this before, but why not just get a small tail bag to put proper hiking boots in and change shoes when you get to where you're going? Yeah, I asked this to and I'd love an answer.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:48
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A bag big enough to fit these boots? That I can then somehow secure for while I'm away? That sounds like a lot of extra stuff. I dislike stuff. The more stuff and the bigger it is, the more I dislike it. And now you want me to carry around--and worry about the theft of--5 lbs of single purpose boot? (I know, then I shouldn't have gotten a motorcycle.)
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Nov 30, 2016 23:59
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If it's too much of a hassle to be safe, maybe you should stick to public transit or something.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:21
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carcinofuck posted:A bag big enough to fit these boots? That I can then somehow secure for while I'm away? You can secure your tank bag to the bike and secure your tank bag so it can't be opened. I mean you'll have to carry keys to padlocks, and that might, like, impinge upon your freedom, but it still seems better than risking never walking again after your accident. 
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Dec 1, 2016 00:31
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Endbuster posted:You bought the wrong boots mate. I mean you'll break em in and they will eventually stop cutting you up, but eventually you need to find the pair that you can do 10 mile ruck with pack and not even have the slightest irritation. For me its Belleville 340 boots. They make a non-flight variant that is cheaper and the same exact thing but its not fireproofed or flame retardant. I don't mind paying 140 bucks for a pair because they last about 2 years before they need resoled. Oh no i broke them in once i'd cleaned the blood out and they're now comfortible enough to walk around without socks in. They where just a bitch to get past the initial break in bit (and not wearing thick doubled-up socks during that time), this is like almost a decade ago anyway.
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Dec 1, 2016 01:22
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carcinofuck posted:A bag big enough to fit these boots? That I can then somehow secure for while I'm away? Well, are you planning on carrying your helmet and jacket and whatever other gear around with you? And your bike itself is pretty easy to steal if you're parked at a random trailhead. I've seen locking sacks that you can stuff all that into and leave with the bike. This one was just one of the first I found. I always liked the idea of going hiking from the bike but have never figured out a good way to do it without having big locking saddlebags. Alternatively, get a Goldwing and have plenty of storage space.
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Dec 1, 2016 03:12
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Endbuster posted:For me its Belleville 340 boots. They make a non-flight variant that is cheaper and the same exact thing but its not fireproofed or flame retardant. I don't mind paying 140 bucks for a pair because they last about 2 years before they need resoled. You mean for hiking, right Cause I also used to wear combat boots while motorcycling but then I was like, oh wait, these things fold over at the ankle and if I crash and get dragged along the road under 400lbs of motorcycle I want to be able to walk afterwards. HenryJLittlefinger posted:You should post that in one of the fashion threads in YLLS if you're so confident. lol have you seen what they wear in ylls
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Dec 1, 2016 03:26
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Sagebrush posted:You mean for hiking, right Ofc for hiking, or doing whatever. For getting hektik wear actual riding/mx/what-have-you. But he WAS talking about hiking. Oh yeah when I was instructing MSF for Army I made it a point to tell them that they'd still break their ankles in a combat boot, even if it did meet regulation for motorcycling.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:09
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Sagebrush posted:
Some drop crotch motorcycle pants would be fabulous, now that you mention it.
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Dec 1, 2016 06:09
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Chichevache posted:Yes, the same video that is literally just a few posts above yours. Without commenting on their styling, let me just say please do not wear them with a suit. High Protein posted:Just wear MX boots 24/7. 
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Dec 1, 2016 06:30
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builds character posted:Without commenting on their styling, let me just say please do not wear them with a suit.  like I'd ever wear a suit.And if I did: like I'd ever wear it on my motorcycle.
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Dec 1, 2016 06:41
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Chichevache posted:
My friend's wedding may have been a laughable waste of time, but it did give me the memory of a small group of Harley guys riding through a downpour in rented tuxedos. At least that was after the wedding.
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Dec 1, 2016 07:47
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High Protein posted:Just wear MX boots 24/7.
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Dec 1, 2016 20:55
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I think I'm resigned to wearing motorcycle boots, but: I wore the Formas on a ride and it was a pain in the rear end to shift. I then adjusted the height of the shifter which made it marginally better, but if I go any higher than it's real awkward to downshift. Which means the the boot has too much height at the toe. (And also its hards to kind of shift the boot laterally to get over/under the shifter). I'm sure all stiffer shoes will have this problem to some degree, but my question is, are there boots that are better in this particular regard? Edit: I looked it up and I'm not the only one with this problem, particularly with these boots. I'm gonna take the rubber off the shifter and see if it makes a difference. carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Dec 3, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 21:55
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I had the same problem after I adjusted the lever up and just kept riding and it became a non issue for me. You get used to it.
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Dec 4, 2016 00:11
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Yeah, all properly protective boots other than racing boots are gonna make it hard to feel at first. Takes maybe 10 hrs of riding and you're used to it.
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Dec 4, 2016 01:15
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah, all properly protective boots other than racing boots are gonna make it hard to feel at first. Takes maybe 10 hrs of riding and you're used to it. Well I just got back after a 2 hour ride. That means there's only 8 hours left to prove you a liar.
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Dec 4, 2016 01:51
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Bring it I have a pair of pretty cheap MX boots (Fly Maverik). They're way stiff and really not especially great boots at all, especially for a street bike. The bit over the left instep is stiff plastic. It took me a little bit of commuting and one long ride and everything was good. You'll get used to it pretty fast. It turns into muscle memory more so than actual direct feeling in your toe. Naturally, the bulkier the boot, the more numb the shifter feedback, but every dirt/adv boot is going to have the same issue. So regardless, it's something you have to get over, not a boot-specific thing. On the other hand, some shoes don't work on some feet and if your feet don't like em, find a pair they do like before you can't return them. But the issues you've talked about the most are motorcycle boot issues and you won't get away from them.
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Dec 4, 2016 02:40
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Yeah for one I can't quite tell if I'm dragging the back brake a little with my right foot, and the left just feels like it's in a real awkward position sitting under the shifter, with such a drawn out motion to get it out and over to downshift. I guess I'm just wondering that, if it's just a mx boot thing, and I've given up on hiking in em, it might not be better to get a pair that costs 150 instead of 250. Something with a lower toe box. Also wondering about switching to another shifter that's a little less wide at the peg. EDIT: does anyone have Gaerne Balance boots? I don't think they will be more comfortable than the Formas, and they look to have less protection, but they appear about as soft/flexible and a bit sleeker. carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Dec 4, 2016 |
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Dec 4, 2016 03:29
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Move your feet back so the balls are on the pegs where they belong, not your arches/heels = no worrying about dragging your rear brake.
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Dec 4, 2016 04:08
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Jazzzzz posted:Move your feet back so the balls are on the pegs where they belong, not your arches/heels = no worrying about dragging your rear brake.
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Dec 4, 2016 04:45
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carcinofuck posted:Then toes point too far downwards and I have to fight the boots to flex at the ankle so that I can bring the left foot up to downshit. Move the balls of your feet up onto the pegs anyway. If you cannot do this, change the ergos. The balls of your feet need to be on the pegs for a multitude of reasons. This excludes when you are just cruising down the road and feel like being super lazy, but it's specifically not how you are supposed to ride. If you find a pair of riding shoes that is more minimal than the forma lows, provides decent protection, isn't cheap garbage, and costs the same or less than the formas, please let me know. Alternatively, just buy a pair of these every six months and hate your life. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-vice-wp-riding-shoes I had two pair, and they are like wearing cardboard compared to the formas. I thought they were ok, but I'd never owned nice riding shoes before. Other than the Dianese's, of course, which can die in an oil fire.
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Dec 4, 2016 06:08
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You'll get used to them. Just don't use them on a street bike - wear street boots with them. I have two sets of boots. Street boots for street bikes, and sidi crossfire 2s for dirt style bikes. I can't ride my street bikes in the sidis.
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Dec 4, 2016 07:48
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I just ordered the alpinestars toucan boots as a local webshop had a 20% sale. My brother has a pair and I've tried them on. My old boots, tcx infinity non-metal buckle older version, feels so drat flimsy compared to them.
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Dec 4, 2016 10:31
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I really hate how amazing it feels to ride a street bike with a really simple pair of sneakers. Every time I pop on the bike with a pair of sneakers I hate how my boots feel like big thumbs all over again. https://www.cyclegear.com/gear/dainese-tr-course-out-boots I've been using these since Last Fall and they've been great all around boots.
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Dec 5, 2016 18:14
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Do winter-suitable leathers exist or is it all textile? Colorado is plenty dry enough to ride almost every day of the winter but there are many sub freezing days. Windbreaker under mesh kinda works but I'm planning on real gear next paycheck or so. I really don't know where to begin except adventure gear people wear while riding through mountain passes.
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Dec 5, 2016 18:57
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It just throw a snowmobile jacket over my leather one. It's pretty poofy but works great. Cool magnetic zipper cover, too!
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Dec 5, 2016 19:45
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What about boots pants and gloves?
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Dec 5, 2016 22:24
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Anyone have a rough idea of how many liters of storage I'd need in a tail bag to store a jacket, pants, boots, and gloves? 20L enough?
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Dec 5, 2016 22:49
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MomJeans420 posted:Anyone have a rough idea of how many liters of storage I'd need in a tail bag to store a jacket, pants, boots, and gloves? 20L enough? Leather or textile? Shorty boots or full or MX? What kind of back protector in the jacket? 20L probably not enough. That's like a regular backpack, right? Get saddlebags. Stuff your gloves in your helmet.
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Dec 5, 2016 23:08
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Textile jacket but I may upgrade to leather soon, A* KR-1i back protector, regular sized boots. The problem is I have a 2007 Daytona 675 so my options for bags and luggage are extremely limited from what I can tell. Most of the bags you'll find are for the newer models. I did find someone that makes a pair of saddle bags for the bike, but they were $550 (and I can't find them right now). I don't commute to my own office, but to other people's offices, so I can't really just bring all my poo poo inside with me (and I need to be wearing a suit). I could always run a long locking cable through my jacket and part of the bike I guess, or do a tail bag plus a tank bag. I'm not super worried about leaving gear in a bag that's not locked for most of the places I visit (parking garages in high rise buildings), but maybe that's stupid.
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Dec 5, 2016 23:48
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Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:I really hate how amazing it feels to ride a street bike with a really simple pair of sneakers. Every time I pop on the bike with a pair of sneakers I hate how my boots feel like big thumbs all over again.
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Dec 6, 2016 00:20
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MomJeans420 posted:Textile jacket but I may upgrade to leather soon, A* KR-1i back protector, regular sized boots. The problem is I have a 2007 Daytona 675 so my options for bags and luggage are extremely limited from what I can tell. Most of the bags you'll find are for the newer models. I did find someone that makes a pair of saddle bags for the bike, but they were $550 (and I can't find them right now). I don't commute to my own office, but to other people's offices, so I can't really just bring all my poo poo inside with me (and I need to be wearing a suit). I could always run a long locking cable through my jacket and part of the bike I guess, or do a tail bag plus a tank bag. I'm not super worried about leaving gear in a bag that's not locked for most of the places I visit (parking garages in high rise buildings), but maybe that's stupid. If it's not hard shell luggage, whoever wants your poo poo can just cut the bag and take it out. I wouldn't leave it on the bike. You'll need 35-40L of storage for all of that stuff depending on how well it packs down. Bump that higher if you add pants.
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Dec 6, 2016 01:48
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Space Whale posted:What about boots pants and gloves? I've never really cared about cold feet, so I just use my six year old A-Stars Scout WPs and thick socks. For gloves I just have a pair of crappy Sedici Massimo gloves (employee pricing was too good to pass up. I'll just warranty them out when I feel like it) but also have Oxford heated grips.
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Dec 6, 2016 02:03
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its all nice on rice posted:I've never really cared about cold feet, so I just use my six year old A-Stars Scout WPs and thick socks. For gloves I just have a pair of crappy Sedici Massimo gloves (employee pricing was too good to pass up. I'll just warranty them out when I feel like it) but also have Oxford heated grips. I've had fingats/toes go numb riding in the mid 30s when foggy and misty with just tourmasters for boots and that weird crab claw overglove over some latigo RR gauntlet gloves. If it was below freezing that could lead to frostbike* and that's a no. Winter daydreams of a sumo are the worst  *I caught the typo but left it
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Dec 6, 2016 03:33
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Electric gear is honestly the best way to go when getting into lower numbers. The tops of my hands are a bit cold after riding with the grips, but they're noticeably warmer overall than if I didn't have the heat. Electric insoles or (better) socks and either heated liners or gloves are great in cold weather. Battery powered has come a long long way, but I but directly plugged into the bike is still the best. Almost all manufacturers make a battery tender adapter for their gear, too.
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Dec 6, 2016 03:55
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Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:I really hate how amazing it feels to ride a street bike with a really simple pair of sneakers. Every time I pop on the bike with a pair of sneakers I hate how my boots feel like big thumbs all over again. I'm the complete opposite. I can't stand it. Hurts my toes/toes knuckle thing when I shift.
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Dec 6, 2016 05:03
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