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fyallm posted:The house was built in the 40's and the studs aren't center to where we want the mirror. And we couldn't find all the studs. If the mirror is wide enough, you don't need them on center. Is there just one hanger like that? You can string a wire across 2 hangers, then nail into at least 2 studs and slide it around on the wire until you get it where you want.
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Dec 8, 2016 01:42
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fyallm posted:I am trying to find a Toggle Bolt with a C-Hook and the only place i am finding them is loving Alibaba.... I have toggle bolts that are currently holding up a big loving mirror but right now the little hooks are just barely hanging onto the bolt head, and I really want a hook to hold it in place... Make your own. You should be able to force open an eyebolt enough to make it serve as a hook. Take the toggle bolt assembly to the hardware store and see if they can't match the machine screw to an equivalent diameter & pitch, machine-threaded eyebolt. When they do, get a nut, thread it on first all they way up to the eyebolt, and then slip a washer on to act as a backstop, before threading on the wings.
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Dec 8, 2016 04:12
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How do I remove this light cover? It isn't completely flush with the ceiling but only moves slightly from side to side in any direction if I pull on it. The plastic in the center appears to be part of the cover and doesn't move at all if I push on it. 
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Dec 8, 2016 20:58
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Have you tried just pulling it off(straight down)? A lot of those have spring arms on them that just press against the inside of the fixture.
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Dec 8, 2016 21:02
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I figure those red arrows might indicate something about where to apply gentle force.
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Dec 8, 2016 21:07
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Yeah, I've tried pulling fairly hard and am a little nervous about breaking anything by pulling harder. It seems to be the most attached at the side with the arrows. These fixtures (we have several throughout the house) are new, so it's possible the mechanism could just be sticky because it's new. Only one of the fixtures still has the red arrows, I suspect they were an installation guide and weren't removed from this one by accident.
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Dec 8, 2016 21:09
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legendof posted:How do I remove this light cover? It isn't completely flush with the ceiling but only moves slightly from side to side in any direction if I pull on it. The plastic in the center appears to be part of the cover and doesn't move at all if I push on it. I believe you may have this Feit panel that was sold at Costco (and may still be). Unfortunately Feit's site sucks and I can't find the manual for that product. This manual is for a slightly bigger version of a similar product, and impplies that it slides on/off. Edit: Somebody put an [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7AYGXVbBu8]install video up for that Costco product on youtube[/url]. Of course, the guy can't video himself sliding it on, but he at least shows what's under there, if that is indeed the product you have. BeastOfExmoor fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Dec 8, 2016 |
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Dec 8, 2016 21:31
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Oh that's exactly it. Thanks very much, that gives me what I need.
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Dec 8, 2016 21:47
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I'm helping a friend build stairs like this for a front entry but with wood instead of metal. Disregard the railing; the plan is to use angle iron brackets at the tread/side rail connections, but we're wondering how to support the treads in the middle as we're shooting for a 48" width (may drop that down to 40" if it's too arduous or expensive to support 48"). Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated- thanks.
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Dec 9, 2016 04:10
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Put a third stringer in or use very thick treads, as they did in that picture.
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Dec 9, 2016 06:11
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Bad Munki posted:Put a third stringer in or use very thick treads, as they did in that picture. Thanks, thick treads could work if we can find something within the budget, but 3" thick slabs of redwood might be pricey. Trying to avoid a 3rd stringer.
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Dec 9, 2016 06:24
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I suppose maybe you could run some angle iron across and build a tread over it to conceal the metal structure, effectively faking the slabs. That's probably the case on the picture anyhow. No clue what the specs would need to be, you'd probably need an engineer to sign off on something out of the ordinary like that in order to pass inspection/meet code.
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Dec 9, 2016 07:12
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Bad Munki posted:I suppose maybe you could run some angle iron across and build a tread over it to conceal the metal structure, effectively faking the slabs. That's probably the case on the picture anyhow. No clue what the specs would need to be, you'd probably need an engineer to sign off on something out of the ordinary like that in order to pass inspection/meet code. Yeah this all might be more trouble than it's worth. Fat treads + running angle iron across + welding... I have a feeling when we start pricing this out it's going to be unfeasible, especially compared to cutting standard stringers out of 2x12s and being done with it. Appreciate the feedback, it's helpful.
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Dec 9, 2016 07:59
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Safety Dance posted:24cm circumference seems awfully small for a drill press drive belt. Could you take a picture? It's a tiny little thing. Zippo for scale: 
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Dec 9, 2016 16:09
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:It's a tiny little thing. Zippo for scale: Wow that's impressively small. Here's a hundred-pack for ten bucks: https://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k623/=15e7dhf From what you've said, you want a 76mm diameter O ring. McMaster sells them in a bunch of different widths. I don't know if you can get them at the hardware store, but it's worth asking.
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Dec 9, 2016 16:28
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I want to make acrylic doors for an Ikea Kallax unit. I know the internal dimensions of the cubes in one of these units is 13x13x15 inch, with 13x13 being the size of the front opening. Using pivot hinges, how do I determine exactly how big (by 1/16s of an inch) the panels I use should be? Or is there another kind of hinge I should consider? I just didn't want to drill holes in acrylic, but I'm willing to if there's a better door hinge option for clear doors.
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Dec 9, 2016 22:50
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Is it safe to bypass the wattage regulator in a ceiling fan if doing so makes the lights work again? Asking for a friend.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:26
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I just bought an awesome wood picnic table at a flea market a few weeks ago. It's painted yellow and has a big bright Austrian beer logo on the top. The issue is the yellow paint and giant beer logo on the top are starting to chip and flake away. How best to maintain its current appearance & save the logo without it degrading any more? I want to be able to use this outside and maybe even leave it outside throughout the summer. I'm not against it being glossy but I don't want it to have a very visibly thick gloss. What kind of sealer/lacquer? Polycrylic? Polyurethane? Sandable? Spray on or brush on? How many coats? I'm lost.
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Dec 10, 2016 08:25
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signalnoise posted:I want to make acrylic doors for an Ikea Kallax unit. I know the internal dimensions of the cubes in one of these units is 13x13x15 inch, with 13x13 being the size of the front opening. Using pivot hinges, how do I determine exactly how big (by 1/16s of an inch) the panels I use should be? The Kallax is basically cardboard with a few strategic particleboard edges. All of the IKEA cabinet door kits in that line include wraparound internal panels that both reinforce the walls for hinge screws and serve as door stops. Screwing things into IKEA furniture in ways they didn't intend is a futile endeavor. Your best bet is probably to modify one of their door kits. I know that glass doors were available for the previous iteration of the kallax, the expedit.
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Dec 10, 2016 19:03
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eddiewalker posted:The Kallax is basically cardboard with a few strategic particleboard edges. All of the IKEA cabinet door kits in that line include wraparound internal panels that both reinforce the walls for hinge screws and serve as door stops. That's a good point, I'll just make some stabilizers for a sheet of acrylic as an insert instead
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Dec 10, 2016 21:24
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plasticbugs posted:I just bought an awesome wood picnic table at a flea market a few weeks ago. It's painted yellow and has a big bright Austrian beer logo on the top. The issue is the yellow paint and giant beer logo on the top are starting to chip and flake away. How best to maintain its current appearance & save the logo without it degrading any more? I want to be able to use this outside and maybe even leave it outside throughout the summer. We do have a woodworking thread here in DIY. They might know.
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Dec 10, 2016 22:44
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Oh dear God my house is cold. I rent, so I can't do anything major, but how can I seal up the doors? The windows are single pane, and painted shut. Any tips on how to insulate them some?
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Dec 11, 2016 02:51
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QuarkMartial posted:Oh dear God my house is cold. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-62-in-x-84-in-Clear-Plastic-Indoor-Window-Kit-2120-EP/100353672 Plus something at the bottom of the doors to block drafts coming in. Rolled up towel is fine, or you can buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/Frost-DS2-Window-Draft-3-Feet/dp/B000RUMZHE
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Dec 11, 2016 03:06
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Looking for some advice on how to seal this up. My house is split level, so the front door opens on a landing and you can go up or down a half flight. Underneath the landing is accessible space. It is clean and dry but it is not sealed to the exterior. The foundation wall is concrete block, then sill plate and joists then the floor above. However, there is no sheathing behind the joists, and you can see clear to the brick exterior. If I reach my hand up, I can feel where the sheathing starts just above. So, the blocks are hollow and unfilled, letting cool air into the space. The exposed brick let's a ton of cold air in and it also acts as an access point into the house for pests. How should I go about sealing this up, both for insulation and pest control purposes? Pics: https://goo.gl/photos/npAxvmEhuNQ969zy9 https://goo.gl/photos/FXmQ5WujMYMX4RpV7 https://goo.gl/photos/TJ94ZrWzsVqca7KA8 The lumps are waste concrete the builder dropped there. They just make working on it harder, but don't seal anything up.
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Dec 11, 2016 20:44
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emocrat posted:Looking for some advice on how to seal this up. My house is split level, so the front door opens on a landing and you can go up or down a half flight. Underneath the landing is accessible space. It is clean and dry but it is not sealed to the exterior. The foundation wall is concrete block, then sill plate and joists then the floor above. However, there is no sheathing behind the joists, and you can see clear to the brick exterior. If I reach my hand up, I can feel where the sheathing starts just above. I'd just get some fiberglass insulation batts and stuff them up in there, I think that's the common thing to do to seal up between the sill and joists. You could also take an engineers sledge and a cold chisel, and bust free the concrete and tack the paper backed insulation in place
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Dec 11, 2016 20:54
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So I'm mounting my tv in my condo and i need to drill 4 holes in the wall for the left/right side of the top/bottom brackets of the mount. Cool? cool. Well the top holes drilled just fine, but the bottom ones wont. Idk if I just got really unlucky and am hitting some nails/metal in the wooden studs on the bottom holes (my magnets arent going crazy in those locations though) or if I am really bad at drilling and just didnt set up the drill correctly. Any and all help appreciated!
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Dec 11, 2016 22:58
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Is your unit possibly at or partially below ground level? Maybe you hit a block wall? How far in were you when the drilling stopped working? And what, exactly, is not working? Like it won't proceed, or the bit binds up, or you couldn't operate your drill on account of the gajillion volts of electricity coursing through your body?
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Dec 11, 2016 23:09
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Bad Munki posted:Is your unit possibly at or partially below ground level? Maybe you hit a block wall? How far in were you when the drilling stopped working? And what, exactly, is not working? Like it won't proceed, or the bit binds up, or you couldn't operate your drill on account of the gajillion volts of electricity coursing through your body? it won't proceed, I think? certainly i didnt get shocked lol. im above ground level for sure, there's a restaurant underneath me
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Dec 11, 2016 23:14
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Can you get a thin screw driver in there to tap on whatever you're hitting to decide if it's metal or stone or wood?
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Dec 11, 2016 23:24
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I just drilled some holes above the workable top holes and moved the mount up instead. I think it worked out well, im pretty sure i was hitting some sort of metal casing.
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Dec 12, 2016 01:14
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pseudonordic posted:Is it safe to bypass the wattage regulator in a ceiling fan if doing so makes the lights work again? Like a dimmer switch? If you have a single circuit running to your fan and non-dimmable lights then yes, replace with a regular switch and use the fan speed pull cord to control it instead.
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Dec 12, 2016 01:32
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OSU_Matthew posted:I'd just get some fiberglass insulation batts and stuff them up in there, I think that's the common thing to do to seal up between the sill and joists. My problem with just using fiberglass is that it wont do anything to seal it from pests. We have had a few mice and this a prime entry point. We've also seen a few ants there, although I poisoned those fuckers pretty good.
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Dec 12, 2016 01:46
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We have a sectional from Ashley Furniture that has two recliners. One of them is super hard to put the feet part down. It does not have a lever, you just click it down with your legs. The other one is pretty easy and they have had a pretty similar amount of use. Anything I can do to lighten it up?
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Dec 12, 2016 01:53
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Rubiks Pubes posted:We have a sectional from Ashley Furniture that has two recliners. One of them is super hard to put the feet part down. It does not have a lever, you just click it down with your legs. The other one is pretty easy and they have had a pretty similar amount of use. Anything I can do to lighten it up? My guess is that there's something in the mechanism that's getting in the way. See if maybe you can get a look inside?
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Dec 12, 2016 02:03
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emocrat posted:My problem with just using fiberglass is that it wont do anything to seal it from pests. We have had a few mice and this a prime entry point. We've also seen a few ants there, although I poisoned those fuckers pretty good. Anything you put there mice will probably chew through if they're that desperate anyways. Maybe pick up a 6-8" roll of aluminum flashing, and cut out/caulk in squares to cover the exterior gap first? Lotta work with presumably little benefit. I think you gotta find their exact entry point and plug that up to be successful. You can try spray foam, but it's expensive, and tough to work with on large vertical gaps like that. It just doesn't stick very well and will just fall off and puddle if you're not extremely careful. Plus, mice will still chew right through there. I don't think you'll need an exterior vapor barrier for such small areas, but maybe? Dont want to trap moisture against the joists. I just tacked fiberglass batting up in mine, as per the energy efficiency inspector's recommendations. Plan A: Adopt a cat
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Dec 12, 2016 02:22
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Rubiks Pubes posted:We have a sectional from Ashley Furniture that has two recliners. One of them is super hard to put the feet part down. It does not have a lever, you just click it down with your legs. The other one is pretty easy and they have had a pretty similar amount of use. Anything I can do to lighten it up? Do you have kids or dogs that might have climbed up on the foot rest while it was up? They're not made for more weight than your legs, really, so they can get bent out of whack if they're loaded up too much.
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Dec 12, 2016 02:25
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I have never had problems with mice. My landlady when I lived in a small mixed-use building said the person in the apartment behind me complained about mice, she retorted saying that the tenant kept the place a mess and we never had any issues with mice. The landlady also ran a restaurant downstairs and had exterminators out weekly. We also have two cats, one of which is a giant 18 lb one-eyed bruiser of a Turkish Van. In short, adopt a cat.
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Dec 12, 2016 02:28
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emocrat posted:Looking for some advice on how to seal this up. My house is split level, so the front door opens on a landing and you can go up or down a half flight. Underneath the landing is accessible space. It is clean and dry but it is not sealed to the exterior. The foundation wall is concrete block, then sill plate and joists then the floor above. However, there is no sheathing behind the joists, and you can see clear to the brick exterior. If I reach my hand up, I can feel where the sheathing starts just above. I'd fill most of the space with fiberglass insulation, and then shoot in a few cans of "large gap" foam-in-a-can insulation. Shoot some foam into the cracks between the brick facade and sheathing. Anything you can to create an air seal and vapor barrier. an skeleton posted:So I'm mounting my tv in my condo and i need to drill 4 holes in the wall for the left/right side of the top/bottom brackets of the mount. Cool? cool. It's possible you were hitting nail safety plates. They're put on a stud (between the stud and drywall) where wiring passes through a stud. It's to prevent you from piercing the wiring when you nail into a stud. goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Dec 12, 2016 |
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Dec 12, 2016 04:05
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OSU_Matthew posted:Anything you put there mice will probably chew through if they're that desperate anyways. Maybe pick up a 6-8" roll of aluminum flashing, and cut out/caulk in squares to cover the exterior gap first? Lotta work with presumably little benefit. I think you gotta find their exact entry point and plug that up to be successful. I like the idea of flashing, I may try that. I am totally up for a disproportionate amount of labor. I like doing it, learning stuff and I take the approach of, this is my forever home, I want to do things the best I can for it regardless of the effort involved. OSU_Matthew posted:Plan A: Adopt a cat I have a cat and shes loving useless. I am actively counting down the days till I no longer have a cat.
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Dec 12, 2016 14:48
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pseudonordic posted:Is it safe to bypass the wattage regulator in a ceiling fan if doing so makes the lights work again? the thing that prevents you from using more than X watts by design? no, not really. If it's actually broken, and you can't put in the designed number of watts then replace the regulator.
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Dec 12, 2016 16:43
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