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Cooked Auto posted:I've got the inverse in this case. My White Scar pot has some slight separation to it but both my Ceramic White are just lumpy messes that requires some heavy stirring to even get usable. Ceramite White has amazing coverage but it's a much thicker paint. You need to thin the pot pretty often to keep it form getting lumpy and lovely. White Scar is really thin comparatively. Citadel's Retributor Armour is an amazing gold, unfortunately my Liberator Gold has changed color in the pot and is now a weird copper color.
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Dec 15, 2016 21:39
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SRM posted:Ceramite White has amazing coverage but it's a much thicker paint. You need to thin the pot pretty often to keep it form getting lumpy and lovely. White Scar is really thin comparatively. Yeah I guess that makes sense and something I'll have to keep in mind for the future. Even if I probably just end up using Ulthulan Grey in its stead.
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Dec 15, 2016 21:52
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SRM posted:
All their new warm tone metallics (white tops) do this for some reason. The binder separates and you get a super liquidy orange colour floating on the top. Needs to be shaken waaaay more than you expect, often.
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Dec 16, 2016 00:03
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Cooked Auto posted:Yeah I guess that makes sense and something I'll have to keep in mind for the future. Even if I probably just end up using Ulthulan Grey in its stead. Give P3 Morrow white a go. Pretty nice.
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Dec 16, 2016 00:04
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Is there a good example of a cartoony cel shaded look for this cockpit shape? I was blocking in a color and I'll probably do a near-white of it but I want to see if there's a more stylish shape I can use. A white stripe coming down the side looks p boring.  It's also interesting to see how much blocking the light can remove from the highlights. Had to do it in the previous pic to show where I made my cockpit highlight.  Also I kinda want to make this  Into this  Is there a good way to give a flat surface an interesting chrome/NMM look or would I have to resort to RMM here? I might have to draw on other inspiration since the Arwing only looks interesting due to its shape, but maybe I can make a blue and grey work with a large ship like that??
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Dec 16, 2016 05:09
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With the wings folded in front, I always see the u-wing as buck's starfighter. Some yellow and red stripes would look nice
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Dec 16, 2016 06:59
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Does anyone have the new Thousand Sons paints and Privateer Trollblood paints to compare to each other?
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Dec 16, 2016 17:07
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Dr. Phildo posted:With the wings folded in front, I always see the u-wing as buck's starfighter. Some yellow and red stripes would look nice Yeah, the concept art literally ripped off Buck's fighter and this isn't much different. It probably would look alright with some military stripes but that just isn't my style. It would look too plain and boring so I wanted to see if there's a way to give it a chrome look. It has flat horizontal plating so I couldn't do any sky-earth chrome or anything like that.
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Dec 16, 2016 17:35
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SRM posted:How's the coverage? The stock Abaddon Black has the worst coverage of any black I've ever used, and I've switched to P3 for my black. glad this wasn't just me, thought I was doing something wrong with Abaddon Black
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Dec 16, 2016 17:52
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The standard Abaddon Black is a loving disgrace. It's a liquorice looking glaze of poo poo with all the coverage of a thing that has absolutely no coverage.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:06
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Moola posted:glad this wasn't just me, thought I was doing something wrong with Abaddon Black You were; buying it! Ohohohoho!   (But seriously, in a way I'm glad GW changed all their paints since I quit 40k, since it meant I could start fresh when I got back into things. Their rebranded Coat d'Arms paints were actually pretty good!)
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Dec 16, 2016 18:16
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lmao
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Dec 16, 2016 18:37
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I started painting again after a big gap of a few years not doing anything at all, and I found that my GW/Coat d'Arme paints from the 90s were still good, my reaper and vallejo were still good, and a ton of my GW paints are dead. Anything in a screwtop and a bunch of stuff in their older flip-tops. I need to do some sort of bulk buy from Reaper/elsewhere to replace them. For now I'm just operating on a limited palette.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:42
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Ashcans posted:I started painting again after a big gap of a few years not doing anything at all, and I found that my GW/Coat d'Arme paints from the 90s were still good, my reaper and vallejo were still good, and a ton of my GW paints are dead. Anything in a screwtop and a bunch of stuff in their older flip-tops. I need to do some sort of bulk buy from Reaper/elsewhere to replace them. Yeah this is a pretty common theme with gw paints
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Dec 16, 2016 19:09
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:The standard Abaddon Black is a loving disgrace. It's a liquorice looking glaze of poo poo with all the coverage of a thing that has absolutely no coverage. It's kind of fitting that Abbadon Black is the worst black paint, though
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Dec 16, 2016 19:16
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w00tmonger posted:Yeah this is a pretty common theme with gw paints It would probably be less of an issue if they added rubber stoppers to the caps (Testors does this with their larger thinner bottles). With some clever design they could even keep their wacky reasoning for the plastic flip tops (no need to pour out! Just shake and open!).
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Dec 16, 2016 19:19
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What irritates me is that they had a totally acceptable design in their original hex flip-tops. The soft plastic on the lid worked pretty well to create a seal, and while you could get some dried paint build up in the rim, they very rarely dried out. I have a bunch of those pushing 20 years that are still fine. Then when they switched I guess they had to change pots because the other ones were coat d'arms products, but instead of just getting a new version made they switched to using hard plastic for the lids. Which was a total disaster on the screwtops and not great on the flip-tops - I lost a bunch of those hard tops to drying out. The version they have currently is better, but it still doesn't seem as good as the original ones. It just drives me crazy to see people constantly redesigning away from a good product. In the interest of fairness, one of my vallejo paints went kind of weird and chunky, but I remember it being sort of off when I bought it and its the only one that has suffered in a way a good agitation didn't fix.
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Dec 16, 2016 19:42
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Ashcans posted:It just drives me crazy to see people constantly redesigning away from a good product. gw.txt
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Dec 16, 2016 20:25
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I remember being fooled by a cheap ebay lot for a bunch of GW screw top paints back when I was just starting out. Was really excited and my mom had even driven me out to get it from the guy's shop. I only checked the colors when I was at the shop to make sure the entire bundle was there, but then got home to realize my mistake. Guy wouldn't refund me. 
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Dec 16, 2016 20:43
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I think I lucked out in that for the most part, my screw-tops took years to dry out--assuming I didn't use them all up, anyway. None of mine are good any more, of course, but I still have several of them around for painting purposes. They make surprisingly good model mounts with a bit of blu-tac. They're not bad for terrain pieces either, if you can scrape/hide the big-rear end CITADEL COLOUR engraved across three sides.
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Dec 16, 2016 22:05
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Holy loving poo poo Vallejo Metal Colors are uh-mazing!
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Dec 16, 2016 22:47
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Star Man posted:Holy loving poo poo Vallejo Metal Colors are uh-mazing! Yesss, one of us. They're wonderful.
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Dec 16, 2016 23:02
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The liquid colors or the VMC stuff?
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Dec 16, 2016 23:04
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Chill la Chill posted:The liquid colors or the VMC stuff? I assume VMC. When I was looking to paint some Gundams I looked into youtube reviews of it and it was drat good, like close enough to Alclad II that it wasn't worth the extra effort to use a lacquer unless you were super fuckin serious
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Dec 16, 2016 23:09
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Chill la Chill posted:The liquid colors or the VMC stuff? I have both. I've had a pot of silver and old gold Vallejo Liquid Metal and they're pretty good. I finally opened up the pot of Vallejo Metal Color gunmetal grey that I bought in August (finally finished my undergrad today so I have some time to paint minis instead of fine art painting). I'm headed to Hobby Town later today to get the colors for steel and aluminum.
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Dec 16, 2016 23:24
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Two stupid n00b questions. First, I've seen some YouTube videos of people that have transferred Citadel paints to droppers. Have any of you trustworthy and knowledgeable Goons done so and if so, what was the formula you used to thin them out? I grabbed some dropper bottles for shades and thought maybe transferring some of the gunkier pots might be a good move. Second is, my Blick's is having a pretty awesome deal on the Winsor & Newton professional acrylics, and wondering if anyone had thinned some out to use for miniatures and what your process was. Searching brings up people either talking about garbage craft paints or saying that the pigment in professional paints is too large, which having done canvas painting before with professional acrylics sounds like nonsense (definitely true for cheap acrylics though).
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Dec 17, 2016 00:47
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Very stupid question... flame on. So I haven't played since RT/2E/3E but I used to played Blood Angels and Eldar. Played hella competitive and loved the game, but I really liked the metal mans more than anything. I do not want to get back into this, but I would like a painted model (something ForgeWorld) for my desk at work. Sadly, I know getting up to speed to paint one well enough to want it on my desk at work would require spending hundreds on supplies and mans to screw up before I got back into the flow of things. Is there anybody here who charges for paint mans who's good at it? Specifically to paint me up a Sanguinius once FW releases one? Or if the model sucks a FW Eldar Avatar?
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Dec 17, 2016 02:44
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Shadin posted:First, I've seen some YouTube videos of people that have transferred Citadel paints to droppers. Have any of you trustworthy and knowledgeable Goons done so and if so, what was the formula you used to thin them out? I grabbed some dropper bottles for shades and thought maybe transferring some of the gunkier pots might be a good move. I just used some airbrush medium and a small funnel. The funnel you want ideally should be smaller than the opening of the squeeze bottle for air to escape and if the funnel fits too tightly it can stretch the neck so that the tip doesn't lock in securely. Dump over what you can, scoop out more with a brush, add some airbrush medium, shake, transfer, and then use the medium to wash in any remaining in the funnel. You'll lose a fair bit in the process, but I still ended up with a pretty full 1/2 oz bottle.
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Dec 17, 2016 04:10
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darnon posted:I just used some airbrush medium and a small funnel. The funnel you want ideally should be smaller than the opening of the squeeze bottle for air to escape and if the funnel fits too tightly it can stretch the neck so that the tip doesn't lock in securely. Dump over what you can, scoop out more with a brush, add some airbrush medium, shake, transfer, and then use the medium to wash in any remaining in the funnel. You'll lose a fair bit in the process, but I still ended up with a pretty full 1/2 oz bottle. Did you measure a specific amount of it to add to the pots or just kind of wing it? I only have Flow Improver and Slo-Dri on hand but think I can get airbrush medium somewhere locally.
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Dec 17, 2016 04:58
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God drat, drop pods take forever to paint.
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Dec 17, 2016 05:17
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Are there any droppers in particular people recommend? I'm worried cheap ones might not be air tight.
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Dec 17, 2016 08:57
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Chill la Chill posted:Yeah, the concept art literally ripped off Buck's fighter and this isn't much different. It probably would look alright with some military stripes but that just isn't my style. It would look too plain and boring so I wanted to see if there's a way to give it a chrome look. It has flat horizontal plating so I couldn't do any sky-earth chrome or anything like that. Alclad chrome airbrushed on?
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Dec 17, 2016 09:22
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KPC_Mammon posted:Are there any droppers in particular people recommend? I'm worried cheap ones might not be air tight. SKS Bottle and Packaging. I bought their "1/2 Oz Natural Ldpe Dropper Bottles With Streaming Dropper Plug And White Caps" for the bottles, and then the "15 Mm Natural Ldpe Controlled Dropper Tip Plugs." The plugs that come with the bottles aren't made to do individual drops, so you need to switch 'em out. Thirty bucks gets you 48 bottles and a gross of tips. I'll add a bit of distilled water if one seems super thick, but I don't really do too much thinning in the bottle. I usually just thin when I put it in the palette. EDIT: Also, I use address labels to write down what kind of paint is in each bottle.
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Dec 17, 2016 10:20
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KPC_Mammon posted:Are there any droppers in particular people recommend? I'm worried cheap ones might not be air tight. I ordered these and they seem like great quality, a bit better than the Reaper paints I have: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=44774 Also, do the actual shipping option where they don't charge you the shipping until it ships. The estimated shipping was $10 on my order of 50 bottles, but actual was $6 and they got here in about three days.
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Dec 17, 2016 14:46
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I painted my first miniatures! I followed Sorastro's guide for the Stormtroopers and I'm hooked. I see a lot of room for improvement (I think my paint is too thick and the brushwork is slapdash) but I don't hate my results. One nice thing about Star Wars is the "used space" aesthetic allows for some messiness but I would like to make more consistent looking figures. Not looking to become a pro but if I'm level 1 and some of you all are level 100, I'd like to be level 20 or 30. I'm open to suggestions about how to improve based on what you see here. 
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Dec 17, 2016 20:43
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I painted my first miniatures! I followed Sorastro's guide for the Stormtroopers and I'm hooked. I see a lot of room for improvement (I think my paint is too thick and the brushwork is slapdash) but I don't hate my results. One nice thing about Star Wars is the "used space" aesthetic allows for some messiness but I would like to make more consistent looking figures. Not looking to become a pro but if I'm level 1 and some of you all are level 100, I'd like to be level 20 or 30. I'm open to suggestions about how to improve based on what you see here. Good job! For specifics for improving, I will tell you what not to do: Do not look for shortcuts, especially from using specific tools. You probably already have most of the right tools. Certain things like inks and washes and poo poo like that are cool, but honestly good painting comes from understanding and PRACTICING fundamentals as far as I've seen. Have you looked up Duncan Rhodes' series on beginner painting?
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Dec 17, 2016 20:49
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signalnoise posted:Good job! I haven't but I'm watching some now. They are the Citadel videos where he goes through base, shade, layering, etc., right? e: Also, I am an idiot lefty who almost fell for the April Fool's left-handed brush video. Fidel Castronaut fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Dec 17, 2016 |
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Dec 17, 2016 22:41
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I haven't but I'm watching some now. They are the Citadel videos where he goes through base, shade, layering, etc., right? Yes, those are the videos. They're fantastic work for newbs like me and you. I had a little thing going here for a while where I rushed painting and made everything look like a boiled turd because I didn't even do a decent basecoat, and at the end of it I learned patience. If you want to learn, practice and build up your patience.
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Dec 17, 2016 22:54
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Fidel Castronaut posted:I painted my first miniatures! I followed Sorastro's guide for the Stormtroopers and I'm hooked. I see a lot of room for improvement (I think my paint is too thick and the brushwork is slapdash) but I don't hate my results. One nice thing about Star Wars is the "used space" aesthetic allows for some messiness but I would like to make more consistent looking figures. Not looking to become a pro but if I'm level 1 and some of you all are level 100, I'd like to be level 20 or 30. I'm open to suggestions about how to improve based on what you see here. Yeah, paints too thick. If you thin the paints properly then the brushwork won't really be noticeable, so that's two birds with one stone. Still not a bad start, the scarring looks great. Its just some of the white bits look a little muddy because the paint is thick. Should look fine on the table though, and a good place to build up from. Just thin your paints more, use multiple thin layers, and practice doing it and you should be fine. Fidel Castronaut posted:e: Also, I am an idiot lefty who almost fell for the April Fool's left-handed brush video. hehehehe
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Dec 17, 2016 23:12
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signalnoise posted:Yes, those are the videos. They're fantastic work for newbs like me and you. I had a little thing going here for a while where I rushed painting and made everything look like a boiled turd because I didn't even do a decent basecoat, and at the end of it I learned patience. If you want to learn, practice and build up your patience. You have learned patience when you can leave your almost finished model alone for a week while the gloss coat fully dries and hardens. Took me a while.
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Dec 17, 2016 23:25
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