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Verge posted:Is abs really a big deal? I'm not making GBS threads on abs and I know in some bikes it's ridiculously good and in others it's a very basic panic safety but is it really that much of an advantage for someone that really knows how to ride well in the first place? Yes. Because it helps you in those times when you make a mistake or there's unexpected slipperiness and your riding ability doesn't do poo poo to help you. Like helmets and seatbelts.
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Dec 25, 2016 20:33
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ABS is more lifesaving on a bike than it is on a car, I would think. And all cars have it.
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Dec 25, 2016 20:34
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:ABS is more lifesaving on a bike than it is on a car, I would think. And all cars have it. More wallet and dignity saving for sure. Cars dont fall over so if you lock up you still have options and a good driver can mostly do without.
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Dec 25, 2016 20:38
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ABS would have saved my rear end in my crash. My next daily rider WILL have ABS. Yes, it's that important. Edit: And I'm the guy that doesn't like ABS in his racecars. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Dec 25, 2016 |
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Dec 25, 2016 20:57
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I want all of my bikes to have TC/ABS. ABS is enough of a benefit I'm retrofitting it to the CBX.
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Dec 25, 2016 21:17
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Wow OK. Ty. Did not expect that unanimity
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Dec 25, 2016 21:22
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ABS saved me from plowing into an SUV that rear ended someone right in front of me, on the highway, two days ago. Instead of totalling my car, I stopped about 1.5 ft off their bumper. For bikes, I'll have it if I can have it. At least one of my offs would have been saved by abs. Or, you know, have a supermoto and don't stress about locking up. (I'd still like to have it)
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Dec 25, 2016 22:19
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Z3n posted:ABS is enough of a benefit I'm retrofitting it to the CBX.
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Dec 25, 2016 23:02
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Coydog posted:ABS saved me from plowing into an SUV that rear ended someone right in front of me, on the highway, two days ago. Instead of totalling my car, I stopped about 1.5 ft off their bumper. For bikes, I'll have it if I can have it. At least one of my offs would have been saved by abs. How does having a sumo help?
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Dec 25, 2016 23:58
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:How are you doing this? What parts are you using? Ninja 650 ABS units are completely isolated from the rest of the system, so with some stares at a wiring harness and knocking up some reluctor rings, it should be functional. More details in my project thread a few pages back.
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Dec 26, 2016 01:28
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Guys, I have many noob questions. 1. What is this, from the tool bag?  2. And this (single wire going to the engine, spark plug wire?):  3. This is what the passenger pegs are fastened with; do I need to bend out the arms of the pin and push it back through the hole, or is it possible to just hammer it in from the rounded side of the pin?  4. How problematic is chain rust like this:  5. How do I gauge the amount of acceptable tread (aside from riding and sliding)? Is there some minimum distance that the nobs should extend out?(For example that yellow line?)   6. Finally, I am looking to replace a front left turn signal assembly because the PO busted it up (plastic is broken at the stem) and it's askew:  I got a OEM replacement, but the electrical connector is lost in a maze of cavling and other stuff that sits behind the headlight / under the dashboard or whatever it's called in a bike. I'm going to try to take off the headlight cowl, but is there any guidelines in terms of what to start wrenching on first? Just try to take off the most superficial stuff first to see how far in you can get and go from there?
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Dec 26, 2016 03:02
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1. Fuse puller 2. Without knowing the specific engine, given the wire gauge and plug location it's probably the oil pressure or O2 sensor. 3. Bend the arms of the pin straight and pull it out. 4. Chain's hosed, replace it.
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Dec 26, 2016 03:11
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Verge posted:How does having a sumo help? Squishy suspension pluy gentle geometry plus light weight plus huge bars means that when you lock it feels like it happens in slow-motion (compared to most bikes) and the stay-upright-despite-your-retarded-rear end factor of the bike is significantly stronger. They're genuinely harder to crash in a general sense.
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Dec 26, 2016 05:26
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carcinofuck posted:
Those are towards the end of their life but they have more tread on them than my crf250l. You will need a new tire but not immediately. What kind of riding do you intend on doing, because the answer to this will or should guide your tire purchases. My left blinker is also broken but lucky for me my bars are bent so it just sits until I get around to fixing it. If the blinker is a pain in the nuts, post about it so I can just duct tape the poo poo out of it instead.
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Dec 26, 2016 11:49
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Verge posted:How does having a sumo help? Sumos are way more tolerant of being outside of their normal balance and grip envelope. They also tend to push back less when they do get outside of it. Where a sport bike will snap back upright and toss you over the bars when you lock the rear and let it go, a sumo will sort of lazily come back, with the suspension absorbing 95% of the force that goes to throwing you off the bike on a sport bike. Hence the greater need for abs on a non-sumo. Please note that front tire lock ups are still bad news on any type of bike except maybe a trike?
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Dec 26, 2016 18:49
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Front tire lockups and massive tank slappers is how I learned to love the rear brake... and covet ABS.
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Dec 26, 2016 19:11
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Hello friends, I have a 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. I recently took it for the recommended 3800 mile service and noticed when riding it back home that it was idling much higher than before. The weather was cold (for where I live anyway, maybe 40 degrees), but I think I would have noticed the difference on the ride to the dealer that morning. Usually my bike will idle higher on start-up when the engine is cold and then go down; now it doesn't really seem to reduce even after the engine should be warm. I called the shop and they claim they didn't adjust anything that should have affected the idle. I checked and it's idling around 1600 rpm, and the manual says it should be 1250-1350. Should I just make an idle adjustment myself using the adjustment screw near the engine? Or what might they have screwed up that would cause this? It's really noticeable when pulling in the clutch.
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Dec 26, 2016 20:28
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mentalcontempt posted:Hello friends, I have a 2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S. I recently took it for the recommended 3800 mile service and noticed when riding it back home that it was idling much higher than before. The weather was cold (for where I live anyway, maybe 40 degrees), but I think I would have noticed the difference on the ride to the dealer that morning. Usually my bike will idle higher on start-up when the engine is cold and then go down; now it doesn't really seem to reduce even after the engine should be warm. I will fiddle with my idle adjustment knobs at stoplights, though I have carbed bikes. If they did a valve service that might account for it.
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Dec 26, 2016 20:55
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If they did a valve service and it's idling high as a result, they skipped the "sync throttle bodies and set idle" step.
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Dec 27, 2016 01:38
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carcinofuck posted:
Can I get people to confirm this chain needs outright replacement now? What happens if I don't? Gets crustier and reduces efficiency? Do I need anything aside from a chain breaker too? Any recommendations for one of those? carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Dec 27, 2016 |
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Dec 27, 2016 03:15
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carcinofuck posted:Can I get people to confirm this chain needs outright replacement now? What happens if I don't? Gets crustier and reduces efficiency? 1. do the links bend smoothly? yes: run it no: replace 2. is there significant wear on the rollers: yes: replace it no: run it. One way to test worn rollers:  I've seen worse rust on a dd chain. If its an O/X ring chain its likely fine internally. cheap piece of poo poo? YMMV. Chain breaker? whatever lovely cheap one Hf/Cyclegear has and a grinder for destroying old rivets.
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Dec 27, 2016 03:57
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carcinofuck posted:Can I get people to confirm this chain needs outright replacement now? What happens if I don't? Gets crustier and reduces efficiency? Although if the chain looks like that the sprockets are probably due for replacement too, anyway.
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Dec 27, 2016 04:08
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Replace chain and sprockets together.
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Dec 27, 2016 05:04
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carcinofuck posted:Can I get people to confirm this chain needs outright replacement now? What happens if I don't? Gets crustier and reduces efficiency? Honestly, I don't know what set up that bike has but stock gearing sucks anyways, so if you are going to replace things, go with a 13t front sprocket and a 42t rear sprocket. It will make the bike much more responsive. This also works with the stock chain length as well. Oil up the chain and clean it up a bit and if there are no kinks then it should be fine, otherwise you will need a 520 x 106 link chain. 13t front sprockets are pretty easy to find but when I bought mine the rear was a little harder to located. I ended up with the wrong one the first time around but the 42t rear that I have now is: Sunstar - 2-356542
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Dec 27, 2016 18:24
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Charging question: I want to set up a relay to a distribution block on my bike. From there, I want to run 2-3 USB ports for phone, gps, battery pack, GoPro charger, etc. Is there a recommended USB block to wire directly in to the distribution block or should I do a 12-v cigar lighter port and get a car charger? Also, should I have a few different current options, or find whichever device draws the most and have all the ports at that rating? I don't intend to run more than the GPS (Garmin Nuvi) and either my phone or a battery charger simultaneously. Should I put an inline fuse on the USB charger? TIA HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Dec 27, 2016 |
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Dec 27, 2016 21:06
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I'd run a fuzeblock and wire everything into that.
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Dec 27, 2016 23:27
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Thanks. I bought a 13t that I haven't put on yet but I was planning on leaving the rear alone. If I go up on the rear as well won't I end up with a lower top speed on the highway? I like that I can maintain 70+ mph even though it's not fun. (Whereas as I understand it the bike is overgeared enough that just a drop in the front won't significantly affect the top speed.) Also I was told by the dudes in the facebook group that I just need to take off the 4x 10mm bolts for the entire headlight assembly to get a good shot at the connector for the turn signal. e: I got the lower end super muddy on Christmas; do I need to be careful about not hosing down any specific part of it? carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 00:41
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Only thing I'd be careful about is not using high pressure spray, like from a pressure washer. Hose on jet spray is fine though.
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Dec 28, 2016 00:47
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Z3n posted:I'd run a fuzeblock and wire everything into that. I found an ATO fuse block at O'Reilly that I'll probably get. Standard relays seem to be 30A. If I understand right, there should be a 30A fuse where power comes into the block from the relay, and every other point on the block should have a fuse matching the draw of the device wired to that point?
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Dec 28, 2016 00:54
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I found an ATO fuse block at O'Reilly that I'll probably get. Standard relays seem to be 30A. If I understand right, there should be a 30A fuse where power comes into the block from the relay, and every other point on the block should have a fuse matching the draw of the device wired to that point? That's correct, yeah.
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Dec 28, 2016 03:17
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Z3n posted:That's correct, yeah. Thanks. I just now realized that Fuzeblock is a trade name. Looks tits. I kinda want a project though.
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Dec 28, 2016 03:23
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Thanks. I just now realized that Fuzeblock is a trade name. Looks tits. I kinda want a project though. Here's some good instructions if I haven't linked them before for a project: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
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Dec 28, 2016 03:58
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Z3n posted:Here's some good instructions if I haven't linked them before for a project: Thanks. That's actually the first one I read a couple years back. Basically what I'm planning on doing, but I'm still trying to figure out bow a distribution block with fuse slots works in that schematic.
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Dec 28, 2016 06:30
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You can also fuse on the accessory leads themselves, rather than at the block 
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Dec 28, 2016 16:53
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carcinofuck posted:I bought a 13t that I haven't put on yet but I was planning on leaving the rear alone. If I go up on the rear as well won't I end up with a lower top speed on the highway? I like that I can maintain 70+ mph even though it's not fun. (Whereas as I understand it the bike is overgeared enough that just a drop in the front won't significantly affect the top speed.) You might surprise yourself by having the same or higher top speed by going up in the rear. For highway, bikes like these can hit their aerodynamic maximum well before the engine/gearbox maximum. YMMV but this is what I experienced going from 13/42 to 13/45 on the WR250x.
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Dec 28, 2016 17:27
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Coydog posted:You might surprise yourself by having the same or higher top speed by going up in the rear. For highway, bikes like these can hit their aerodynamic maximum well before the engine/gearbox maximum. YMMV but this is what I experienced going from 13/42 to 13/45 on the WR250x. I take it most of these things have to be done by putting the bike on a stand, any recommendations for a cheap stand? Like, not a 100 bucks?
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Dec 28, 2016 18:25
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It isn't a highway top speed bike anyways. With 13/42 I can take it on the highway, but I don't. I did about 2 hours on the interstate on mine once and 45 minutes here and there but that is not what it is made for and losing 2-3mph off the top where its lovely to ride anyways doesn't make much of a difference. I think I top out in the lower 70s but i've never calibrated the speedometer.
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Dec 29, 2016 00:35
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carcinofuck posted:I take it most of these things have to be done by putting the bike on a stand, any recommendations for a cheap stand? Like, not a 100 bucks? For a 250cc dirt bike? Milk or beer crate on its side is traditional.
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Dec 29, 2016 11:06
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ammo box works nicely too. 
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Dec 29, 2016 17:41
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I screwed together a stand for the Ulysses out of scrap 2x4. Hasn't fallen on and severed a limb yet!
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Dec 29, 2016 17:46
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