|
Nidhg00670000 posted:Could you run some forward and down headers, maybe? A set of flipped shorties should work fine.
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 04:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 11:03 |
|
|
mariooncrack posted:Please tell me you'll be selling some of this soon. psst http://fruitbutter.kitchen/
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 04:56
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 04:58
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:Huh. Like I said, Never done exhaust stuff much before. I fully agree with Tomarse, those flex pipes is almost certainly what I would use to easily rig up some temporary exhaust, I would probably trust that more than what I'd be able to weld literally in the field. It's the go-to repair method when we're 24h lemons-ish racing and the flex pipe decides to leave early or a bit of pipe needs replacing. Just avoid those thin U-bolt clamps, the flex pipe is a spiral that locks into itself and the force of those clamps can pop it apart so it starts to unravel. Those wider ones with a slotted tube or a band work. It's often difficult to get to seal perfectly if you were to care about that, unless you apply a liberal amount of exhaust-grade monkey feces (gun gum or whatever) to fill out the grooves in it for a couple of turns. Not sure if it's the best idea right up at the manifold though. Clamps tend to move around or slip off easily there (due to heat expansion or whatever), but I could see that hackishly solved by drilling a hole through the clamp + flex pipe + whatever it slips over and stick a bolt or maybe just some baling wire through it. Also that flex tube doesn't have a super-tight minimum bending radius, so if you need to make really tight bends snaking around the engine bay it might not do. Just go to some auto parts store and get a feel for it though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 08:13
|
|
|
HandlingByJebus posted:Dave! Beautiful. So what will we build 14's statue out of?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 16:27
|
|
|
joat mon posted:Beautiful. chrome and cigarette butts with a Jackson Pollock smattering of hot sauce
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 16:47
|
|
|
Hey Dave, saw this and thought of u.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 16:49
|
|
|
We interrupt this program to give you a word from our sponsor http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3796226 Many thanks to Chicken and Metal for the linkage, though truth be told I actually vastly prefer selling thru SA-Mart because it doesn't eat the service fees that Etsy does. Plus, as many folks can attest, I love to send my goons free goodies. WE NOW RETURN YOU TO EXHAUST(ing your colon after too much hot sauce) CHAT
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 18:09
|
|
|
also if you are showing this thread to a friend without playing Ennio Morricone's "The Ecstasy of Gold" on a loop I don't know what's wrong with you
JacquelineDempsey fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jan 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 19:16
|
|
|
JacquelineDempsey posted:I love to send my goons free goodies. The butter is loving great but the true treasure was the extras. Unrelated: 14" -- there's a padded envelope en route to you. Inside is a small congratulations and the payment of a debt I owed you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 21:08
|
|
|
JacquelineDempsey posted:We interrupt this program to give you a word from our sponsor I am totally getting jar of that!  ionn posted:I fully agree with Tomarse, those flex pipes is almost certainly what I would use to easily rig up some temporary exhaust, I would probably trust that more than what I'd be able to weld literally in the field. It's the go-to repair method when we're 24h lemons-ish racing and the flex pipe decides to leave early or a bit of pipe needs replacing. Just avoid those thin U-bolt clamps, the flex pipe is a spiral that locks into itself and the force of those clamps can pop it apart so it starts to unravel. Those wider ones with a slotted tube or a band work. It's often difficult to get to seal perfectly if you were to care about that, unless you apply a liberal amount of exhaust-grade monkey feces (gun gum or whatever) to fill out the grooves in it for a couple of turns. So, what it sounds like I need is, a 2 U bends, some lengths of this, and a muffler? What I'm thinking: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-12597hkr https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-49075 And will these kinds of clamps work? Or do I need to go thicker? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-as212 Cause what I'm thinking is that I'll go 180 out of the manifolds, flex down under the engine, Y into 1 pipe, and then muffler out behind the cab. The only issue is that theres not a lot of places to add hangers, besides what remains of the original transmission crossmember and the frame rails themselves. You can see where the old exhaust was, so I think that's roughly where I'll go with the new one. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 22:06
|
|
|
I just noticed the divco in the background. Paging moocow
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 22:30
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:And will these kinds of clamps work? Or do I need to go thicker? I think I would add a couple lengths of straight pipe of matching size in case you need to join two flexy bits together (they would need a bit of pipe in between them), or want a more sturdy straight section somewhere. As for hangers, just go with steel straps or baling wire around the frame rails. If you need to go somewhere in between the rails, use that to make an "exhaust crossmember" where you need it. For the side exhaust, just hang it off the bed. Compensate for any flimsy / long hangers by just having more of them in slightly different directions. Hose clamps, while generally not strong enough to join up bits of pipe, are very useful making hangers. The fewer fucks that are given, the more glorious it will look. Never used something quite like those clamps on flex pipe, but my guess is they are wide enough to do the trick. I've used plenty of these, they work fine. Proper bolts mean you can screw them really drat tight: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Avgassystem/Avgassystem-ovrigt/Skarvror-2000018900/ This is the kind that does not work well: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Avgassystem/Avgassystem-ovrigt/Rorklammer-2-st-2000017824/ I think anything that is wider than a couple turns of the flex pipe won't tear it apart, but I could see the sharp edges possibly being an issue if it bends and moves around right at the joint. Those big clamps I've used are flared out at the ends which may or may not make a difference. If in doubt, you can take a couple inches of leftover exhaust pipe, cut a slot along the length of it, apply violence at the ends to flare it out (your choice of exact method), slip it over the flex pipe and use whatever clamps you have on the outside it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 22:58
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:
I would be tempted to forget the Y joint and just buy 2 of these (or similar cheapest muffler you can find) https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-630805/overview/ Mount them where the old exhaust is in that picture (on both sides). Flex pipe straight into them out of your U bend. Its going to be loud as gently caress on the highway anyway and I assume you will be wearing ear protectors or earplugs too so keep it really simple.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 23:32
|
|
|
I am tempted to do that, as I've already got the cheapest muffler on my list, but the only thing is on that side is where the rubber fuel hose currently sits, and I rather not have this truck go the route of the Jeep. But yes, that would be the simplest solution.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 23:40
|
|
|
If two separate exhausts and mufflers make things simpler, you could have both exit the same side.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 23:58
|
|
|
Wouldn't running two pipes to the same side end up being more involved that using a Y?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 03:27
|
|
|
You can also skip buying a Y-pipe by getting a 2-input 1-output muffler like this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-700359/
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 05:29
|
|
|
Personally I like the idea of 10' of flexypipe.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 08:50
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Personally I like the idea of 10' of flexypipe. Surely you mean 14'
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 09:57
|
|
|
14" tailpipe
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 10:04
|
|
|
ionn posted:I think I would add a couple lengths of straight pipe of matching size in case you need to join two flexy bits together (they would need a bit of pipe in between them), or want a more sturdy straight section somewhere. As for hangers, just go with steel straps or baling wire around the frame rails. If you need to go somewhere in between the rails, use that to make an "exhaust crossmember" where you need it. For the side exhaust, just hang it off the bed. Compensate for any flimsy / long hangers by just having more of them in slightly different directions. Hose clamps, while generally not strong enough to join up bits of pipe, are very useful making hangers. The fewer fucks that are given, the more glorious it will look. How much larger did you go with the flex stuff? On Summit I've been going with 2.5" for all the hard stuff and the flex stuff comes in the same diameter. Now, this stuff says it's slip on, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-49075, so I'm assuming it should be slightly larger than the hard stuff. The only other option is going up to 2.75, and that seems too big. And since, that'll more or less get the exhaust settled, it's on to the brakes! So, somewhat contrary to what Dan said earlier, the new cylinders I ordered aren't wrong, just different... They're the same size as the existing ones, but they're a different style, Namely, that they don't have the jumper tube that goes inside the drum to connect them.  (If you can see it there, the cylinder is under a dust cover thingy, and has that little 1/4" tube to connect it to the cylinder on the other side of the drum.) The new cylinders do not have that connection point on it. But otherwise they're the same. So will it work if I just mount the new ones, 90* out, and tee into the main line? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-499-0201 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kys-100-43580090/overview/ I think the main line that feeds the rears is 3/8, so after the tee would I want to step down to 1/4" or remain 3/8"?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 02:33
|
|
|
I'm thinking with flex tubing, you should be able to apply some rotational force to the end to make it uncoil a tiny bit and thus expand a tiny bit. Maybe get some from a local shop and play around a bit before ordering?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 21:02
|
|
|
I'd email summit and ask. I'm sure they'd rather you order the right stuff first than have to send back open-package goods.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 21:23
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I just noticed the divco in the background. Paging moocow That's an old UPS package car, not a Divco.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 21:26
|
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:How much larger did you go with the flex stuff? On Summit I've been going with 2.5" for all the hard stuff and the flex stuff comes in the same diameter. IIRC, the size stated for the flex stuff was "whatever size exhaust pipe it will fit over" (i.e. flex pipe inside diameter), but that was when I bought it sized in millimeters in a specific store chain on a different continent. As you say, best ask them. Red_October_7000 posted:I'm thinking with flex tubing, you should be able to apply some rotational force to the end to make it uncoil a tiny bit and thus expand a tiny bit. Maybe get some from a local shop and play around a bit before ordering? Not really, it's pretty stiff in that regard. Maybe it can open up a tiny amount (would guess 1-2mm) but not nearly enough to "change sizes".
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 22:04
|
|
|
What about an under bumper exhaust? Like the Australian Army Mack 6x6 trucks run?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
How long is the Austrialian Army going to beat on those before they come up for sale?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 01:45
|
|
|
Fermented Tinal posted:How long is the Austrialian Army going to beat on those before they come up for sale? I've seen some pretty cool poo poo come through here before, none of that particular model but there are a couple of 6x6s there right now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 01:54
|
|
|
Memento posted:I've seen some pretty cool poo poo come through here before, none of that particular model but there are a couple of 6x6s there right now. drat, that old mercedes fire truck with an air cooled hatz diesel. 166 furious horsepower. 360 screaming ftlbs of torque, powering 12000kg down the road. it's 0-60 is no. it's 1/4 mile is maybe.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 01:59
|
|
|
I read that as "360 screaming fritz of torque" for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 02:01
|
|
|
Powershift posted:drat, that old mercedes fire truck with an air cooled hatz diesel. 166 furious horsepower. 360 screaming ftlbs of torque, powering 12000kg down the road. The Hatz is the engine for the water pump. The truck has a Mercedes diesel, same engine as a UNIMOG, so it's probably pretty slow either way.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 04:05
|
|
|
That old merc truck WILL eventually hit 100kph on the flat. We used to have one in the CFS brigade I was in. loving TERRIFYING above 90 tho... drat thing was using most of the lane and part of the verge to motor down the road and had half a turn of slop in the steering box. Those mogs with the Hiab crane are going for around $20-25K... If the missus wouldnt just walk out on me i'd have another car loan and have one in the driveway!
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 05:25
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:That old merc truck WILL eventually hit 100kph on the flat. We used to have one in the CFS brigade I was in. Holy poo poo, I can imagine. I've had a very well-kept, ultra-low mileage Ford of similar size up to 70 MPH/113KPH once, briefly, basically as part of a shakedown drive, and that was where she tach'd out. Anything over 60 in that got progressively more worrying. Not like other cars would do much to slow something like that down, but bridge abutments don't give a gently caress and it only has lap belts...
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 05:50
|
|
|
MrYenko posted:That's an old UPS package car, not a Divco. I had a huge post about how there's no way that could be a UPS package car, since they get every last mile out of them before crushing them (and I've worked for UPS twice now, so....) This picture proves you're right, though.  I've never seen a former package car in the wild; usually they get moved to intra/interhub duty or airport duty when they hit about 1M miles (on the diesels anyway; no idea on the newer gassers, but the gassers seem to all be automatic, with anti-idle, and Oldsmobile Intrigue or Alero headlamp assemblies), then when they get too unreliable for even that, they strip anything usable and crush the body. The last package car I was in was a 1996 with an odometer stuck around 620k. That was less than a month ago. Navistar diesel (I assume V8) with a Spicer 5 speed (though 1st would barely keep up with someone jogging on the sidewalk before the engine sounded like it wanted to turn itself inside out). That truck was beat enough that the floor had cracks large enough to see the road anytime it hit a bump, and you had to make sure your shoelaces weren't near those cracks while going around turns. They get their money's worth out of them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 11:11
|
|
|
Given the amount of work that seems to have gone into the UPS vans, it seems kind of strange that they don't use them over here (Norway, though I can't remember seeing one in the UK either). I guess the cost of getting them approved wouldn't be worth it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 14:13
|
|
|
They'd pass emissions reqs. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 14:32
|
|
|
I'd imagine it's the size, it's a good foot and a half (45cm for you metric folks) wider than a Ford Transit or Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 16:06
|
|
|
Red_October_7000 posted:I'm thinking with flex tubing, you should be able to apply some rotational force to the end to make it uncoil a tiny bit and thus expand a tiny bit. Maybe get some from a local shop and play around a bit before ordering? Yes, it will, maybe a 1/4 inch change over a 2 inch pipe. I've got some at home and will get some measurements this evening.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 16:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 11:03 |
|
|
Computer viking posted:Given the amount of work that seems to have gone into the UPS vans, it seems kind of strange that they don't use them over here (Norway, though I can't remember seeing one in the UK either). I guess the cost of getting them approved wouldn't be worth it? They use them here in Sweden, at least.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 16:54
|
|
