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In all seriousness, an lq4 is probably more than enough power and torque to get that thing moving way faster than sims would ever want to take the truck. Maybe look at something like the holley high ram intake, a bigger aftermarket throttle body to keep it cable operated and a cam that helps it make more torque down low. My vote is 4bt swap.
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Jan 11, 2017 07:52
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PT6.
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Jan 11, 2017 08:34
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Perkins AD 6-354 
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Jan 11, 2017 14:29
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ExplodingSims posted:A. I have a relevant story. My dad used to work for UPS when he was going to college in the '70s, and he confirmed that they used trucks FOR-EVER there. He said they still had trucks from the '50s when he was there. I'm pretty sure the only reason they aren't still running 50s trucks is emissions and economy. The newer trucks have anti-idle built in, and even the older trucks (which seem to be early to mid 90s now) monitor WAY TOO MUCH poo poo. Take off your seatbelt before you hit the engine stop button? You get bitched out. Hit the start button without your seatbelt on? You get bitched out. Use reverse more than a couple of minutes for the entire route combined, you got bitched out. Hit the start button without the cargo door being fully closed (which was a bitch to get to latch), get bitched out. Try to hit the start engine button without using the clicker first, get bitched out (each driver had a keyfob-like device that would unlock the bulkhead door, and also enable the starter). Deviate from the trace (route), you get bitched out, even though a good chunk of the poo poo in the truck was time-critical (overnight, 2 day, etc - stuff that was supposed to be delivered by 10am - he always ran that stuff first). The computer would often try to send you back and forth across major roads instead of letting you run the entire neighborhood, which would add a lot of time to the route - the driver I rode with knew it was faster to knock out the entire subdivision before trying to get across a busy road into the neighboring subdivision. He said he got bitched out constantly over that, but also said he rarely failed to deliver everything in the truck, while most drivers would come back with a lot more than he did. Thank gently caress the helper seatbelt wasn't monitored on the truck I was on - I was usually already out of the seat with a package in my hands, holding on to the (outside) oh poo poo handle, before the truck stopped, but the driver would hit the stop button a few hundred feet before he had to stop and just let the engine compression stop it. The one time he took lunch with me in the truck, every minute or so the truck would lurch slightly. Thought it was my imagination, asked him about it, he said "oh, yeah, this thing has so many miles that it's way down on compression.. thanks for noticing *yanks parking brake and puts truck in reverse instead of 2nd*". He was also very safety conscious, and would always make sure I had my seat belt fastened before he really got moving. I got really good at the double handed seatbelt bit, since the jump seat seatbelts are terrible for fat people. There were a few times where he'd tell me "get your belt on!", and I'd respond "I'm working on it, just go!". But he also knocked it into neutral not once, but twice, while I was walking in front of the truck. The first time was a serious OH gently caress moment since it almost hit me, and almost hit a car - I had to bang on the truck and yell TRUCK'S ROLLING!. He ran out of the cargo area and jumped on the brake. I know I shouldn't have been walking in front of it, but OTOH he was supposed to be using the parking brake. The second time I just pounded on the side and yelled STOP TRYING TO KILL ME! and again... he jumped on the brake. The one I was in was definitely a turbo diesel (Navistar V8 by the tag, assuming turbo by the whistling and screeching from the intake when he stood on it), it seems so weird that they've started moving to a gasoline fleet. Those trucks ride a lot better than I expected though. You won't mistake them for a passenger car of any kind (unless it's something from Oregon Trail being dragged by horses shortly before you die of dysentery), but they aren't that much worse than my stepdad's F-150. The turning radius on them is seriously amazing too, he could do a 3 point u-turn in the same space that my Saturn used. Leperflesh posted:Yeah when I was unloading (I think around... 1996? 7?) we had to scan items ourselves as we put them on the exit belt. And it was indeed 1200 per hour. Unloading could be dangerous, you had to pull down those walls of poo poo, usually some jerk would put a very heavy box right on top, and in order to get the rollers in the trailer to be remotely useful they'd tilt the whole trailer back a few degrees, so those walls wanted really badly to crush you. I started in 2003 or 2004 (I have my employee ID in my car, actually - I could scan it if you guys want to see terrible 90s haircuts). The unload belt had a bunch of lasers on it by then. And.... hahahahahahahahaha, walls never, ever made it when I worked there. You had to work up a "unlock door, jump the gently caress out of the way without hurting yourself" strategy. If they'd actually bothered to put up the netting, only a few dozen packages would try to kill you as the door opened. Otherwise the door would jam, you'd have to reach under it to dislodge poo poo, you would get pummeled with boxes, it'd jam again, repeat rinse etc. I tried to build decent walls; I'd always wind up helping the guy in the next truck once I was done, who was literal OCD about his walls being perfect. He got up in my face and shoved me out of the trailer when I questioned why it had to be perfectly perfect. But union, etc, so nothing came of it. Also Dell boxes made really good step stools. They were always the strongest boxes, probably because they use a 3x3x3 box loaded with styrofoam for a monitor. For some reason all of the unloads I did had roll-up doors on the trailers, while all the loads I did were drop floors with swing doors (so the truck would have to pull them out a bit to close the doors). The trucks would hook up to the trailer while I was still loading, and I got knocked on my rear end plenty of times by the jolt (there were always plenty of boxes marked FRAGILE to cushion my fall). the only warning you had about a truck hooking up is you'd hear a diesel engine for a couple of seconds before a mini-earthquake happened. There were a couple of times where the tractor hooked up, then immediately pulled the trailer away from the dock so the driver could close the doors. I taught those drivers a lot of new words, and since being on the ground was a fireable offense for me, I wouldn't budge until the driver got it back to the dock.  Breakfast Feud posted:What's the word on Mercedes inline 5 diesels? I've googled a few recently for a potential diesel swap in the very far future and they seem pretty affordable but I don't know if they have the HP you'd wan't. Depends, does a 0-60 time measured in months count?
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Jan 11, 2017 14:35
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Speaking of 0-60 times, whatever you get, double check its governed speed and the top gear ratio of the trans you will be using plus your rearend ratio and tire size against your desired cruising and max speeds. 2 stroke diesels generally don't turn as fast as 4 stroke ones (from what I have seen) and the bigger the motor the lower its governor is going to be. Looking for a new motor for my truck, literally every loving gearhead I talk to starts spewing a huge list of engines I have already considered and discarded as options because they would limit me to like 35mph flat out, and I usually just stop listening because the suggestions come faster than I can say why they won't work. If you don't mind changing out the rearend to a taller ratio, it opens your options up considerably. I do mind on mine because it has 3 differentials that cost several thousand each to regear, but you only have one to mess with and there are plenty of excellent cheap rear diff options for a truck that size, so if you are up for it, it could be the right choice if it makes an engine you are considering work out. Unless you are going to change out the steering column or do weird poo poo to move it over, or do flipped exhaust manifolds, I think you are probably going to be limited to inline motors. That being said, flipped manifolds on an LQ4 with a big turbo would be pretty cool 
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Jan 11, 2017 15:46
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Cop Porn Popper posted:In all seriousness, an lq4 is probably more than enough power and torque to get that thing moving way faster than sims would ever want to take the truck. Maybe look at something like the holley high ram intake, a bigger aftermarket throttle body to keep it cable operated and a cam that helps it make more torque down low. I'm sure someone makes an "RV cam" for the LS. 
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Jan 11, 2017 16:55
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Diesels suck and V8s rule.
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Jan 11, 2017 19:27
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Ormy posted:Diesels suck and V8s rule. why not have both. Unless its a 3208. gently caress that guy.
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Jan 11, 2017 19:59
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Listening to that list of requirements a big gas I4/6 sounds best for not having to redesign the entire trukk around it. Lose the diesel premium for a low-mileage-per-year vehicle and the engines get a shitload simpler too. I have no engine recommendations though, I'll leave that to people who've actually used them.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:01
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Ormy posted:Diesels suck While quite a lot of diesels DO suck, some diesels are incapable of natural aspiration - they require a blower to work.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:11
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Atlas 4.2L I6 Oddball GM motor for an oddball truck! Just give it better gearing to play with than a 4L60E. That engine would've been a world better with a 6L80E behind it.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:Atlas 4.2L I6 As a matter of fact instead of the dumb van you should have bought a trail blazer for $500. I forgot that they have the good stuff.
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Jan 11, 2017 20:21
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Remember that atlases have a fucky weird bellhousing not the usual gm V8 one or 60 degree v6 one. You can use a Colorado bellhousing from an nv3550 equipped truck to get to a bolt pattern you can probably use cheap adapter plates to go to that sm420 or an nv4500 though, not sure. I don't think an nv3550 or ax15 is a good idea on a truck this big with a good engine or I would say slam a Colorado trans and an atlas 4200 in there.
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Jan 11, 2017 21:01
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Fill the bed with Lead-acid batteries, install 2 giant DC motors where the diff is, throttle is just a blade switch.
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Jan 11, 2017 21:21
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Stubby Bob's less stubby brother
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Jan 11, 2017 22:28
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So this thread caught a lot of attention from all over the forums, and I want to brag about putting 14"'s sauce in my mouth Sadly, they're out of this limited-run hot sauce but I promise their other products are even better than pickled quail eggs
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Jan 11, 2017 22:32
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kastein posted:Speaking of 0-60 times, whatever you get, double check its governed speed and the top gear ratio of the trans you will be using plus your rearend ratio and tire size against your desired cruising and max speeds. 2 stroke diesels generally don't turn as fast as 4 stroke ones (from what I have seen) and the bigger the motor the lower its governor is going to be. Looking for a new motor for my truck, literally every loving gearhead I talk to starts spewing a huge list of engines I have already considered and discarded as options because they would limit me to like 35mph flat out, and I usually just stop listening because the suggestions come faster than I can say why they won't work. This is why I need like a "Babys First Diesel" book or website or something to help find the right one if I do go that way. I mean, It does sound like a diesel would be the way to go for what I want, but I know nothing about them. As for the other parts, I will be upgrading it to power steering at some point, so that box will be going away eventually, which frees up some space for going to a V8. And I was planning on upgrading to the transmission/driveshaft/rear end to something a little more friendly for higher HP and highway speed driving. (Preferably keeping it manual) I mean, I'm not looking to go 0-60 in seconds or anything, but it would be nice to be able to at least keep up with traffic. Also, I feel like this goes without saying, but the engine going in has to make more HP than the 235 that came out did. (More than 150  )I do still like what I've heard about the L18, assuming it would fit. Although as pointed out aftermarket parts are $$$$$$$$. LQ4 sounds pretty decent from what I've read as well. I guess another option would be the LQ9  At least I know that the LQ's will fit
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Jan 11, 2017 22:33
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Galler posted:Stubby Bob's less stubby brother long richard?
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Jan 11, 2017 22:39
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Powershift posted:long richard? You might even call it... 14 INCH DICK.
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Jan 11, 2017 23:59
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These are basically the modern equivalent of your truck. The gas versions use an lq4 and get around on the freeway just fine.
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Jan 12, 2017 00:02
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Something is wrong with you if you don't like the sound of a 2 stroke Detroit. The 6.2 and 6.5 diesels would both keep it in the family but their power kinda sucks, although it would probably still be an upgrade compared to the original flat head. Everyone puts 5.9 Cummins into every drat thing so please don't go that route. Other engines I would love to have would be an International DT466 (i-6)or T444 (v-8), both are ridiculously reliable, make decent power, and were use in medium trucks so should be available everywhere. I believe the most common DT is the 466 variant but they also make a smaller and larger sizes, I believe 360-570cu in.
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Jan 12, 2017 00:17
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The 444 is the 7.3 powerstroke, and is huge. There's a guy who put one into a 48 by cutting the truck in half and welding a strip in the middle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GowJeGcf_Kk
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Jan 12, 2017 00:24
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We have the 466 in several of our trucks. It's powerful but it's also a pretty large motor, and I would assume you would have to use an (also probably large) international trans? Edit: DT466 Length 45.1" Width 29.3" Height 40.8" 5.9L 24v Cummins Length: 40.0" Width: 24.9" Height: 37.9" If you really want a manual, probably the easiest is a Cummins/manual. It's not really my thing either, but I have to admit it should package well, and will be easy to find and get support forever. ExplodingSims posted:
This is yummy though. What manual trans options are there for these that won't break the bank (or..break)? angryrobots fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 00:53
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So, LQ4 and LQ9 are in the running, and L18 is hanging around in the back like a creepy uncle, but what are thoughts on the 6.6L Duramax? Seems like it makes pretty decent power, and doesn't look like it's much bigger than the 350 that's in there now. Also seems to be a few tales of people making a successful swap.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:25
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If you wanna go diesel, theres a few of us diesel guys here. the short of Gms: 6.2: ok 6.5: not ok. 6.6: ok if you're fine with wiring. the short of fords 6.9/7.3 idi: ok 7.3 psd: ok with wiring. nothing else applies. dodge: 6bt: yes 24v: yes with wiring. isb: wiring required. Lotta isuzus and stuff with diesels are generally fine, but they'll commend a premium in price and parts. Detroit 53 series maybe. no 72/92s. a 8.2 is garbage. Small/large cam cummins are too big. go B or C series. Cats? Leave em in construction equipment IMO. Navistars 444 and 466 are good engines.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:39
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I'd personally just do the easy button LS swap. It'll be cheapest, easiest, reliable, and have plenty of power. Other things would be cool(er) potentially but it would be nice for this truck to not live in a field or shed for the next 20 years.
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Jan 12, 2017 16:01
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Larrymer posted:I'd personally just do the easy button LS swap. It'll be cheapest, easiest, reliable, and have plenty of power. Other things would be cool(er) potentially but it would be nice for this truck to not live in a field or shed for the next 20 years. Kind of what I've been thinking with all the engine talk. Sure there are cooler, more powerful or whatever swaps but LS is cheap/easy/documented?/powerful/reliable. With all the aftermarket support and people putting them in everything I'd go that route. I know if I had a big truck I was putting a engine it would be an LS. Start with a junk yard engine then build it up as needs change or funds become available. Don't know how garbage the fuel economy (if that matters at all) would be moving something this big around. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 16:23
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cursedshitbox posted:If you wanna go diesel, theres a few of us diesel guys here. I am a little surprised you list the 6.2 as OK and the 6.5 as not OK, if anything I always thought the 6.5 was better than the 6.2 in every way. I remember there is an issue with I think the injection pump where it mounted like next to the turbo and the heat fries the electronics so it's recommended to relocate it and attach a heatsink but I have not read of any other issues with the 6.5L. Of course, a Duramax would be better in every possible way, but a lot more expensive and probably come with more emissions poo poo to go wrong if you get one too new.
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Jan 12, 2017 16:26
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ExplodingSims posted:So, LQ4 and LQ9 are in the running, and L18 is hanging around in the back like a creepy uncle, but what are thoughts on the 6.6L Duramax? Duramax's command a high price, and the A1000 is loving expensive. Both need very complicated brains. They're a great combo, no doubt, but I'd stick a 6L gas Truck motor (LQ4) and 4L80E in, and be done with it. I ran that combo in my 2500HD, regularly towing 10K#+, and it was dead nuts reliable (aside from the Crank position sensor going and the exhaust manifold bolts snapping, both of which are either easy to fix in-frame or should be done before the swap). The 6.5 sounds like a bucket of bolts even when new, and have pretty pathetic output.
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Jan 12, 2017 16:35
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I forgot about the little dt360. whoops. Another decent if you can find one. Pillaging schoolbus salvage yards might work out in your favor in that regard. 6.5s tend to bust cranks and blocks with miles on em. and people want lol dollars for a used engine with mediocre output. the 94+ years are electronic and have their own issues. (PMD heatsink you were talking of). they *do* have a turbo, but unless its a 97 or 98, (gm7 or gm8 turbo) they're a wheezy fat kid. I just personally wouldn't put effort into doing an engine swap and go from TBI 350 to a 6.5. a Dmax would own, but you might want to drag kastein out to wire something of that nature. They're also a little larger than a 6.2 but with some creativity it'll probably fit. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jan 12, 2017 |
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Jan 12, 2017 17:30
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Larrymer posted:I'd personally just do the easy button LS swap. It'll be cheapest, easiest, reliable, and have plenty of power. Other things would be cool(er) potentially but it would be nice for this truck to not live in a field or shed for the next 20 years. That sounds pretty reasonable. I think he'll need to be using the truck for a while before he really knows what his best setup will be. The LS may not be ideal, but it's probably good enough for the time being. It makes the truck functional while Sims works on the rest of it. If he thinks some other engine might be better long term after a few years, he can always do another swap at his leisure.
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Jan 12, 2017 17:39
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The 6.2 is a wholly underrated engine. Wasn't huge output, but they just loving go. My dads old 1/2 ton had almost a million km on the odo before the frame rusted out around it, and she still ran fine. Had a few small issues, but nothing major.
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Jan 12, 2017 17:48
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Deteriorata posted:That sounds pretty reasonable. I think he'll need to be using the truck for a while before he really knows what his best setup will be. The LS may not be ideal, but it's probably good enough for the time being. It makes the truck functional while Sims works on the rest of it. If he thinks some other engine might be better long term after a few years, he can always do another swap at his leisure. That's my middle name. One of my first posts in this thread: Larrymer posted:Oh I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap. But buying everything this truck needs to be road worthy up front may be a little more hard to swallow vs. a one time shipping cost. Multiple plane tickets, getting parts that you don't even know you need yet in a town you're not from? Too many unknowns for me. Of course, it's been much more entertaining doing things differently than I would.
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Jan 12, 2017 17:55
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Larrymer posted:I'm automotive sanity, don't mind me. Stitecin posted:This thread has been so fun to read that no one is considering whether the project is the goon in the well. Why keep digging when every effort is going to be undone and most new parts will be replace with better parts at a later date? What's up un-fun buddy?  
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Jan 12, 2017 19:15
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Larrymer posted:Automotive Sanity Stitecin posted:Automotive Sanity *Points at thread title*  Anyways, yeah the LQ4 probably will be the engine of choice. Seems reasonable, I know it fits, not terribly expensive, etc, etc. But, the others aren't ruled out yet. First of all I need to get the truck back so I can see what will fit, and I probably will be driving it around with the L05 in it for a while, just to have it and get used to it before I go full resto-mod on it. But at least I've got some idea of what to be looking for now. cursedshitbox posted:I forgot about the little dt360. whoops. Another decent if you can find one. Pillaging schoolbus salvage yards might work out in your favor in that regard. I do like the Dmax option, looks like its got pretty good HP and torque, and it doesn't look like it's super huge, (At least compared to some of the other suggestions) and I'm not really afraid of dealing with wiring. As long as I've got a decent wiring diagram it's just running new wires to make them fit in their new body. I mean, after all, I deal with this stuff on a daily basis:  But hey, this is still a while out til I get super serious about trying to find something. So maybe I'll be able to get my hands on a cheap truck by then!
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Jan 13, 2017 01:41
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Yeah... unless you're made of money, or have a goooood friend in the JY business, a DMax is going to be crazy $. I'm seeing prices around $5000 for the engine, $1000 for the trans with wiring and TCM. Add another at least $700+ for completely gutting the harness and remaking it. LQ4 and 4L80E.
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Jan 13, 2017 03:36
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ExplodingSims posted:I mean, after all, I deal with this stuff on a daily basis: Oh my sweet summer child... 
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Jan 13, 2017 04:10
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All this engine swap talk and no rotary? I mean that engine bay looks long enough for a four rotor motor to go in there. Then you have room for turbos and booost.
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Jan 13, 2017 04:21
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clam ache posted:All this engine swap talk and no rotary? I mean that engine bay looks long enough for a four rotor motor to go in there. Then you have room for turbos and booost. Worked for Mazda in the 1970s when they put a rotary in a Holden Kingswood https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Roadpacer_AP
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Jan 13, 2017 04:32
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You Am I posted:Worked* for Mazda in the 1970s when they put a rotary in a Holden Kingswood *for a very limited given value of "worked". And surely a better example would be the Parkway, the triple-rotor powered bus.
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Jan 13, 2017 06:15
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