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Anyone able to help me with creating a usb bootable Windows 10 thing? I'm following the tenforums tutorial on making a bootable usb Windows 10 installation but I'm stuck on step 5 and have no clue if I'm supposed to make it UEFI or legacy bios (I have no clue what it means to choose either). I'm doing the 2nd option of creating a Windows 10 bootable usb install through the rufus.exe, since Windows' Media creation Tool won't recognize any usb I plug in. https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2376-usb-flash-drive-create-install-windows-10-a.html quote:5. Do step 6 (UEFI) or step 7 (Legacy BIOS) below depending on if you want to create a bootable USB with or without UEFI support. Agrajag fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 03:16
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Time for a general upgrade due to a game running poorly. I'm not an idiot, but solutions that don't require me to think or figure something out are best. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Xcom 2. Which is a game that runs like poorly optimized dogshit and needs all the help it can possibly get, and just upgrading everything is the plan to give it that help. There is also an Oculus Rift in the house that isn't really getting used, so being able to plug that in would be a bonus but not that big of a deal. I believe a USB 3.0 outlet needs to be near the graphics card to work with the oculus cable. What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. Don't worry about it. I've got no burning need to spend money for the sake of spending it though. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? 1980x1080? I don't know, I have one of these. Anything else? I would really like it to be as close to silent as possible. Specifically, I want to be able to take a nap in that room. I also suspect heat is a general issue in that room, and I live in a desert. This is what I've got now: Operating System Windows 10 Home 64-bit CPU Intel Core i7 920 @ 2.67GHz 51 °C Bloomfield 45nm Technology RAM 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 539MHz (6-6-6-18) Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. EX58-UD5 (Socket 1366) 43 °C Graphics G276HL (1920x1080@60Hz) 3072MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 / HD 7900 Series (Sapphire/PCPartner) 57 °C Storage 894GB SanDisk SDSSDHII960G ATA Device (SSD) 36 °C Optical Drives HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GH22NS30 ATA Device Audio Creative Audigy Audio Processor (WDM) I literally copy and pasted the example PC from the front page of PC Parts Picker, assuming it should be a general upgrade without me needing to think about it. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($96.99 @ Jet) Motherboard: *MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: *Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg) Storage: *Sandisk SSD PLUS 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($112.97 @ Jet) Storage: *Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($399.99 @ B&H) Case: *Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.49 @ Jet) Power Supply: *SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1297.29 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-16 21:15 EST-0500 Then I took out Then I took out the water cooling thing and replaced it with a fan. A water cooler seemed like a recipe for having to think and do stuff like check water levels or worry about it all evaporating and cooking or some other such headache. Is that accurate? Would the water cooler be quieter and not involve maintenance? I'm not reusing my old case because I don't like it. Smaller is better, but there is plenty of room. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($80.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: *MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($399.99 @ B&H) Case: *Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($97.49 @ Jet) Power Supply: *SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1003.34 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-16 21:53 EST-0500 Cyclomatic fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 04:17
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Reusing the SSD is fine, but DDR3 and DDR4 ram/slots are not intercompatible. You'll have to get a board that supports your ram type.
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Jan 17, 2017 04:27
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Agrajag posted:Anyone able to help me with creating a usb bootable Windows 10 thing? I'm following the tenforums tutorial on making a bootable usb Windows 10 installation but I'm stuck on step 5 and have no clue if I'm supposed to make it UEFI or legacy bios (I have no clue what it means to choose either). If you're installing it on a Z270, that uses a UEFI BIOS. Even my Z68 uses a UEFI BIOS, so they've been around for a while. Legacy is for even older systems or OEMs who cheaped out on motherboards.
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Jan 17, 2017 07:06
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sixteenstraws posted:It's been almost 6 years to the day since I built my last pc and I really need an upgrade. This seems fine (I'd probably go for 2x8gb sticks if the price isn't too prohibitive). The aib 480's are generally able to keep to 75-80c but I don't know how much of that applies to australia heat. You'll probably be ok as long as you let the fan run at fairly high rpm (which it should do by default).
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Jan 17, 2017 10:16
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Cyclomatic posted:Time for a general upgrade due to a game running poorly. I'm not an idiot, but solutions that don't require me to think or figure something out are best. You'll need to get new RAM for a Z170 motherboard, but it's a worthwhile upgrade over ancient DDR3 RAM. Some games, notably Fallout 4, show significant FPS gains when comparing different RAM speeds. DDR4 3000 is the sweet spot right now since prices begin to rise steadily from that point for faster modules. Just be sure to enable the faster RAM speed in your UEFI after your system is up and running, otherwise it stays at the default speed. If you want silence stick with the air cooler. Large air coolers like that one give performance close to large liquid coolers but are vastly more quiet. Water coolers shouldn't require any maintenance and rarely leak, but if they do then obviously your system is likely finished. As for heat, there isn't much you can do about that if you're dead set on building a desktop. A gaming laptop would be the only way to get less heat output, but you're paying far more money for the same overall performance while sacrificing the ability to upgrade or replace many components. Also check reviews for the Seasonic power supply in regards to how silently it operates. I know other units like the EVGA G2 550 and the Corsair RMx 550 only spin up their fans at very high loads, so they may be worth considering for a quiet build if the Seasonic needs to use its fan more often.
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Jan 17, 2017 16:45
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Sashimi posted:The GTX 1070 is overkill for your current monitor, you'd want to upgrade to a 144hz@1080p or a 1440p monitor to avoid bottlenecking your card. If you think you'll get a lot of use out of the Oculus Rift however, then the 1070 is probably worth it. If you're sticking with your current monitor, a Radeon RX480 8GB costs far less and is better suited to 60hz@1080p while still being usable for a Rift. If I get the upgraded monitor, and the use the existing monitor as a second monitor for stuff like browsing the internet without needing to tab out of a game, would that cause any issues?
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Jan 17, 2017 17:11
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Cyclomatic posted:Great post.
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Jan 17, 2017 17:50
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Hi there. I live in Germany and will use the of for some gaming and mostly video editing and transcoding. I only need the parts I have listed here. I'm not sure about the mainboard and ram. I would like to keep the audio chip the same but don't need anything extra apart from that. If you would recommend anything else for these two let me know. I think I will find the parts cheaper somewhere else. I'm on my phone at the moment. I will compare prices when I get home. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor (€264.94 @ Amazon Deutschland) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€33.46 @ Amazon Deutschland) Motherboard: MSI Z270 GAMING M3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€175.36 @ Amazon Deutschland) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (€120.99 @ Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€165.46 @ Amazon Deutschland) Total: €760.21 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-17 18:37 CET+0100
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Jan 17, 2017 18:47
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I haven't bought the processor for the machine I'm building yet. I've been planning on the 6600K, and I'm aware that the 7600K is not much of an upgrade, but since I'm starting from scratch, is there any reason I'd want to go for the 7600K? Also, it'd be nice to see some motherboards released soon with more USB-C ports. Let's get that standard rockin'. Nut Bunnies fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 18:56
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Nut Bunnies posted:I haven't bought the processor for the machine I'm building yet. I've been planning on the 6600K, and I'm aware that the 7600K is not much of an upgrade, but since I'm starting from scratch, is there any reason I'd want to go for the 7600K? 7600 means Z270 motherboard which are newer and more likely to have USB-C ports, I reckon. Mine has a single one
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Jan 17, 2017 19:50
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I got a Z170 that can do Kaby Lake after a BIOS update. Mine has a USB 3.1 Type-A and one Type-C, which is what most of the boards shown off at CES have. Feel like some of the USB 3 ports on those things can safely be made 3.1 and/or Type C now, but then again they have PS/2 ports so...
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Jan 17, 2017 20:26
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Nut Bunnies posted:I got a Z170 that can do Kaby Lake after a BIOS update. Mine has a USB 3.1 Type-A and one Type-C, which is what most of the boards shown off at CES have. Feel like some of the USB 3 ports on those things can safely be made 3.1 and/or Type C now, but then again they have PS/2 ports so... On a similar topic, does this tutorial for BIOS update still work even when the ASUS BIOS files are now .cap instead of .rom? The BIOS update would be for the ASUS TUF Z270 Mark 2. http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/1572-how-to-flash-bios-on-asus-board
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Jan 17, 2017 20:50
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The monitor megathread made my brain bleed.Cyclomatic posted:
All I know is that the monitor linked above won't take full advantage of the graphics card linked. Apparently I'd want a "a 144hz@1080p or a 1440p" monitor to use the card properly, but not sure how to translate that into the search columns at PC Part Picker. Anyone able to suggest a solid monitor as large as the above linked one, but does the thingy in the previous sentence?
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Jan 18, 2017 03:39
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Sashimi posted:If you want silence stick with the air cooler. Large air coolers like that one give performance close to large liquid coolers but are vastly more quiet. Water coolers shouldn't require any maintenance and rarely leak, but if they do then obviously your system is likely finished. Great post but I'm going to disagree with this paragraph. I have 2 AIO liquid coolers in my machine, a 240mm radiator for the CPU (6600k overclocked to 4.7ghz) and a 120mm radiator for my video card (an overclocked gtx 1080 founders edition) and it's sooooooo much quieter than it was with air cooling (I replaced the stock cooler on the 1080 founders edition and a 212 evo for the CPU) Also if in the extremely unlikely event of a leak, they both have a 6 year warranty that will cover anything that's damaged by the leak. Edit: At idle it's only a little bit quieter than it was with air but under load it's a night and day difference. Plus now my CPU is around 50c under load and my GPU never cracks 35c under load. The CPU was around 80c with air cooling and the GPU was approaching 90c. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 03:55
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It looks like the dba of the CPU cooler I was looking at is 26, but the GTX 1070 has a dba of 40. Is there a good/easy way to lower graphics card dba?
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Jan 18, 2017 04:33
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Cyclomatic posted:It looks like the dba of the CPU cooler I was looking at is 26, but the GTX 1070 has a dba of 40. Is there a good/easy way to lower graphics card dba? mess around with the fan curve in precision x
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Jan 18, 2017 04:34
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sixteenstraws posted:It's been almost 6 years to the day since I built my last pc and I really need an upgrade. I didn't see anyone comment on the B250 motherboard - I think we're still recommending Z series, with H as fallback, and to avoid Q and B series since they're the budget boards.
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Jan 18, 2017 09:56
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Yeah, the B and Q-Series are geared towards managed environments. The H and Z-series should only be realistically considered for a personal desktop. Yes, there are 'gaming-sounding' motherboards with the B and Q-series chipsets, but they're not recommended. The B-series is the lowest tier, too.
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Jan 18, 2017 10:23
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Cyclomatic posted:The monitor megathread made my brain bleed. You may want to step back a bit and understand the specifics of what previous posters have told you. Your current monitor displays a resolution of 1920 x 1080. It can also only show up to a maximum of 60 frames per second. The 1070 card you're getting (combined with the other hardware you're getting) can theoretically push 100+ frames per second on modern and well optimized games. Since your current monitor can only display up to 60 frames per second, this is kind of a waste. The suggestions were as follows: - Get a monitor that has a 1920 x 1080 resolution, but can show up to 144 frames per second (144Hz). This solves that problem above since you can make use and see all the frames the 1070 card is pushing. - Get a monitor with a 2560 x 1440 resolution. Since this resolution is quite a bit larger, the 1070 will have to work harder. This solves the problem above because at this resolution, the 1070 can theoretically push about 60+ frames per second. Not to complicate things further but you can also choose monitors with 60Hz or 144Hz refresh rates. But with a 1070, 2560 x 1440 @ 60Hz is fine. Resolution comparisons so you know the scale: http://imgur.com/a/hjwAX A 3rd recommendation is to buy a less powerful and cheaper video card like the 1060 or the RX 480, which are more suited to push frames at 60 fps @ 1920 x 1080. There's also poo poo like screen tearing, g-sync, freesync etc to go over but I don't wanna overcomplicate this post. Basically, people are trying to save you money by letting you know that the 1070 is overkill for the monitor that you currently have. You can still go ahead with the parts purchase and use your same monitor. EDIT: Oh, and as for actual recommendations, I don't have any for 24" 1080p 144Hz displays because most of the monitors with those specs are lovely TN panels. For 27" 1440p, it's the Acer Predator XB271HU for > 144Hz. The monitor thread would be better for recommendations. Constellation I fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 18:37
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Hi everyone, Great advice in here. Appreciate it all. What country are you in? United States What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? I want to build a new system for the VIVE. The only game I'm playing right now is Overwatch. I built my current system 6 years ago, and still works like a champ, but it won't handle VR. What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. I'd like the system budget to stay close to $1,000. I will need a new license of Win10 and this budget does not include a monitor or peripherals. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? I just use the Adobe suite for Photoshop, Lightroom, and Premiere. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? As my main goal is to have a good VR experience on the VIVE. I'd like to get a good value, not necessarily max out everything, if it's a marginal improvement. Here's what I put together: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($188.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.10 @ NCIX US) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($102.99 @ Newegg) Storage: *Kingston SSDNow UV400 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($67.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: *Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: *PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card ($246.39 @ SuperBiiz) Case: *Deepcool DUKASE V2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: *Rosewill Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($129.77 @ OutletPC) Total: $1065.98 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-18 13:46 EST-0500 Any idea if I can reuse my case? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129061
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Jan 18, 2017 19:59
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Any recommendations on a cheapo SSD that is somewhat reliable that I can toss into my old pc? Also, need a cheapo air cooler for my i7 2600k. Im planning on keeping my old pc as a backup once I get around to assembling my new pc, probably this weekend.
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Jan 18, 2017 20:08
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Agrajag posted:Any recommendations on a cheapo SSD that is somewhat reliable that I can toss into my old pc? Also, need a cheapo air cooler for my i7 2600k. Im planning on keeping my old pc as a backup once I get around to assembling my new pc, probably this weekend. Cheapo air cooler also happens to be the best one, cooler master 212 evo.
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Jan 18, 2017 20:22
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GutBomb posted:. . . CPU (6600k overclocked to 4.7ghz) and a 120mm radiator for my video card (an overclocked gtx 1080 founders edition . . . (I replaced the stock cooler on the 1080 founders edition . . . Ofc you're going to seer lower noise with water cooling when oc'ing these parts, and lower temps, that's kinda what water cooling is for. If you're not oc'ing or getting a vacum cleaner for a video card, air will be just fine and only noticeable at full load. Jack Forge fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 21:22
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Constellation I posted:You may want to step back a bit and understand the specifics of what previous posters have told you. That helps clarify things. I get that it may be overkill, but my understanding is that while the card has a lot of power, and you pay for it, that card isn't deep into diminishing returns per dollar spent. I also plan to play a very poorly optimized game, and nuking the requirements from orbit feels reasonable to me so long as the nukes are reasonably priced for the size of the crater they make. I also understand that card will benefit the Oculus if not the monitor. I'd rather overspend semi-efficiently than come up short because I was trying to pinch pennies. Is that card unreasonable for that line of thinking? I am also under the impression that monitors last a long time, so buying a nicer monitor should last me for awhile. Or is that wrong thinking?
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Jan 18, 2017 21:44
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Cyclomatic posted:That helps clarify things. Nah, that's like, 99% on the money.
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Jan 18, 2017 21:51
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Oh wow I didn't know m.2 SSD's were so cheap. Should I get this for my OS and use my Samsung 850 EVO 500gb for something else? Storage: Intel 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($87.29 @ Jet) Total: $87.29 I assume the manual for the motherboard will tell me which m.2 slot thingie I'm supposed to stick the m.2 SSD into? The spec say one of the m.2 slots deactivates the SATA_1 port. Motherboard: Asus TUF Z270 MARK 2 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.00 @ B&H) Total: $149.00 note: i've never used, seen, or touched a m.2 SSD before. Also the longer I faff about before putting my new pc together the more reasons I find to look at and buy random poo poo to put into it. 
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Jan 18, 2017 21:58
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The 850 EVO and 600p are somewhat comparable; the former is better at random accesses because it has a better controller and the latter is better at sequential accesses (especially reads) because it has PCIe, broadly speaking. I would not bother switching unless you're buying one for more capacity anyway and just trying to decide which to get. There are much more capable NVMe SSDs than the 600p like the 960 EVO, but they cost more too. SATA port deactivation with M.2 SSDs *usually* only happens with SATA models, not NVMe. I would make sure that it says both slots provide a PCIe connection and that neither is sharing PCIe lanes with something else, if you're going to install an NVMe model.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:19
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Eletriarnation posted:The 850 EVO and 600p are somewhat comparable; the former is better at random accesses because it has a better controller and the latter is better at sequential accesses (especially reads) because it has PCIe, broadly speaking. I would not bother switching unless you're buying one for more capacity anyway and just trying to decide which to get. There are much more capable NVMe SSDs than the 600p like the 960 EVO, but they cost more too. Oh I already am using the Samsung 850 EVO and will be tossing it into my new pc. Reason I asked about the 600p was because of the Linus vid jsut now, heh. Figured hell if it's so cheap why the hell not make use of the m.2 slots on the mobo, but if you say there's no reason to do that I guess I won't. Oh poo poo totally forgot Big Headline's response telling me that using NVME won't deactivate the SATA port. Agrajag fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:24
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The 600p is a decent upgrade over a SATA SSD in certain workloads, but they have issues with throttling and inconsistent speeds when you fill the write buffer. It was enough for Anandtech to not recommend it for the average user over a SATA SSD, with it actually being a downgrade in certain ways. So it isn't really worth the extra hassle.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:26
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nvm
Agrajag fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:31
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Note that if you like the 850 EVO and just want a different form factor, I'm pretty sure it has an M.2 (still SATA, but are you using all your ports?) model.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:37
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Eletriarnation posted:Note that if you like the 850 EVO and just want a different form factor, I'm pretty sure it has an M.2 (still SATA, but are you using all your ports?) model. What do you mean by using all my ports? Honestly just wanted to give m.2 a try. I guess since it is a new feature on the mobo I got for my pc build and have zero experience with it, and since some other brands seem to be rather cheap. The Samsung 850 EVO m.2 seems to be double the price of other brands though. However you guys seem to be saying there is no real benefit so I probably won't get one, probably. Although.... what about this one? Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($132.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $132.99 Agrajag fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:42
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All the ones that are "regular SSD name + M.2" are just SATA SSDs that using the M.2 physical form factor (confusing as it is). They perform identically to their SATA counterparts, but are a bit more compact at the cost of a M.2 port that you could use for an actually faster NVMe M.2 SSD (such as a 960 EVO/PRO).
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Jan 18, 2017 23:23
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Synthbuttrange posted:Thank you OP for making me aware of the Dell outlet store for AUS$900 (US$670?) down $700 from the store price. If anyone was curious, ordered Monday, box arrived Wednesday. Looks pretty neat. Only surprises were that I was expecting a full sized psu that I could replace eventually. but it's a custom dell one, rated at 250w. It'll definitely make reusing the case later a little tricky. Stuff that will need to be replaced when I upgrade: Memory PSU Motherboard Case seems likely. Still, that wont be for years and this is a pretty drat good deal.
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Jan 18, 2017 23:47
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BurritoJustice posted:All the ones that are "regular SSD name + M.2" are just SATA SSDs that using the M.2 physical form factor (confusing as it is). They perform identically to their SATA counterparts, but are a bit more compact at the cost of a M.2 port that you could use for an actually faster NVMe M.2 SSD (such as a 960 EVO/PRO). Is Samsung the only company making real NVMe M.2 SSD's?
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Jan 19, 2017 00:04
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Agrajag posted:Is Samsung the only company making real NVMe M.2 SSD's? No. Plextor is making semi-decent ones, Toshiba has two lines out...it's just Samsung's a lot better at marketing theirs to enthusiasts. There's going to be a lot more NVMe/PCIe M.2 SSDs on the market within the next six months. And that Crucial you linked is an SATA M.2 drive. Toshiba's: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820228162 Plextor's: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G4NE3795 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 19, 2017 00:26
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BIG HEADLINE posted:No. Plextor is making semi-decent ones, Toshiba has two lines out...it's just Samsung's a lot better at marketing theirs to enthusiasts. There's going to be a lot more NVMe/PCIe M.2 SSDs on the market within the next six months. Welp, guess I'll wait a few months and check for prices drops on NVMe M.2 SSD's.
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Jan 19, 2017 00:45
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I think I'm ready to pull the trigger. Taking it from the top hopefully one last time to make sure: What country are you in? United States What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Gaming, specifically stomp on the requirements for a badly optimized game (Xcom 2). I've also got 165 hours in Fallout 4 with some really excessive graphics mods installed, and Mass Effect Andromeda is on my radar. What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. Money isn't an issue. I won't get any personal value out of spending money just to spend money though. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? My current monitor won't take full advantage of the card, but I've decided that a new monitor will generally last for awhile and I'll decide on an upgrade after I get the computer sorted out. I also have an Oculus Rift and my understanding is that the Rift will take full advantage of the card even if my current monitor won't. Anything else? I would like the computer to be fairly silent. Specifically I take naps in the room where the computer will be and leaving, and leaving it on while it downloads a game and not hearing it would be ideal. The room it will be in has heat issues in general, so going a little overkill on heal control might not be a bad thing. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($63.88 @ OutletPC) <- Might be overkill? Motherboard: Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($103.22 @ Amazon) <- DDR4-3000 is the point right before diminishing returns per $ spent kick in, and I'm told Fallout 4 benefits from the higher speed. Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($399.99 @ B&H) <- fans are supposedly 34 dba, but that should only be under load, so I won't hear it when doing normal stuff. I can also adjust the noise with precision x. Plus the card is decently strong, so it really shouldn't be under heavy load in general? Case: *Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Jet) <- Literally for no other reason than it was the case listed in the example build I scooped out to make this build. Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC) <- I'm told this fan won't turn on unless it needs to, so if it is just downloading a file, I really shouldn't hear it right? Total: $1089.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-18 21:48 EST-0500 I am re-using my Windows 10 copy, and 894GB SanDisk SDSSDHII960G ATA Device (SSD). I'm not missing anything? Like some sort of fan controller or need to replace a case fan?
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Jan 19, 2017 04:37
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Agrajag posted:What do you mean by using all my ports? SATA ports. Most motherboards have 4-6, so losing the use of one because it got diverted to an M.2 slot with a SATA-protocol drive in it is not a big deal unless you're already at capacity. Cyclomatic posted:I think I'm ready to pull the trigger. Taking it from the top hopefully one last time to make sure: Pretty good overall. You might be able to get a cheaper cooler than that, the Hyper 212 is like half the cost (as long as it fits, but the one you have looks similar not knowing exact measurements). The video card generally *will* be under heavy load when gaming so don't plan on it running silent all the time, but keep in mind also that the sound rating is in open air so depending on the case it may not be nearly as loud from where you're sitting. The power supply fan is really unlikely to be loud enough to hear no matter what you're doing because that's a fairly efficient model and if the whole system's under load then all your other fans, which will be louder, will be going all out too. I would recommend adding a case fan so that you have two, since the case comes with one; while you get diminishing returns with each that you add, testing has shown that up to around 3 or 4 there's typically a noticeable improvement if you position them intelligently. Many fans still give good airflow and are much quieter at lower than the 12V directly provided by the line, so if you're noise sensitive you might get some utility out of a fan controller. However, you might be able to do that on the motherboard if you get 3-pin or 4-pin PWM fans and even if you can't it might be easier to just buy in-line adapters to reduce the voltage to a fixed value. Noctua makes some good ones, the NA-SRC10 and NA-SRC7.
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Jan 19, 2017 05:22
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