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Obsoletely Fabulous posted:We literally just fixed that issue on our tub two weeks ago. It was leaking from the drain pipe only when a full tub was draining. We figured it was due to the weight of the water above putting enough pressure in to the drain to cause the leak. not the weight of your FAT rear end and ankles, HUH???
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Jan 31, 2017 03:02
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Samizdata posted:Hey, now, the Peralta is STILL afloat. Never underestimate the power of people to crash into anything no matter the surroundings or sight lines. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Atlantus Worked fine until some jerk didn't moor her right. She floated even after she was supposed to sink! Also: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_canoe The concrete canoe races go strong to this day. Sadly, the average weight of the canoes seems to only be around 200lbs, any tough off the street could lift that and steal your motorcycle. This however  Perfectly safe. Suspect Bucket fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 03:23
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Crotch Fruit posted:You *might still regret this, in my experience the base of Cree LED bulbs where the transformer is located gets ridiculously hot, I think they are supposed to put out about the same amount of heat as whatever bulb they are the equivalent of. I will say when I put a 100W Cree in my single bulb kitchen fixture the bulb overheated like 2 or 3 times within months. The strange part is I am still using the very same bulb and it hasn't overheated in a very, very long time, it probably roasted shut and shorted out it's overheat protection thus leaving me with a bright fire hazard. Nah. LED bulbs are more efficient, that's why we use them. A 100W equivalent LED bulb might use 14W of power. A 100W incandescent probably turns at least 98W into heat, with the rest being emitted as light. A 14W LED bulb might turn 12.5W into heat, in comparison. So, the original incandescent is getting MUCH hotter. But incandescents dont care if they get hot (they work by heating a filament, remember). So a fixture rated for 100W bulbs is basically OK with turning into a tiny oven with poor ventilation, because the lightbulb will be fine. But LEDs are sensitive to heat, and will degrade if they are overheated (cheap LED bulbs probably do). Lighting LEDs are mounted on aluminum circuit boards that can be connected to larger heat sinks, just to keep the LEDs cool. However, some enclosed fixtures are so awful at dissipating heat that even the efficient LEDs will heat them. But if an incandescent were installed in that same fixture, the whole thing would be much, much hotter.
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Jan 31, 2017 03:39
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Incandescents radiate a shedload of energy as infrared light. LEDs don’t, so even if though they are more efficient, a greater proportion of their wasted energy ends up heating the bulb directly.
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Jan 31, 2017 03:56
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Platystemon posted:Incandescents radiate a shedload of energy as infrared light. LEDs don’t, so even if though they are more efficient, a greater proportion of their wasted energy ends up heating the bulb directly. Yep. I have some Philips 65w equivalent LED floods in inset can lights. They have heatsinks and venting around the edge of the lamp so it doesn't bake the LEDs. The other LEDs (60w equiv) all have heatsinks around the base of the light. I was worried about the floods, but they've all been going strong for almost 2 years. All said and done, I'm probably using about 12 of the floods, and 24 normals for ceiling fixtures and table lamps. The LEDs paid for themselves after about 12 months. (I probably shaved about $10-15 off my monthly bill)
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Jan 31, 2017 04:18
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Platystemon posted:Incandescents radiate a shedload of energy as infrared light. LEDs don’t, so even if though they are more efficient, a greater proportion of their wasted energy ends up heating the bulb directly. Uh, no not really. When the LED bulb gets hot, it emits IR too. It's a blackbody radiator when it's hot, just like the incandescent. But LED bulbs have a lot more thermal mass (since they have alumninum heatsinks and circuit assemblies), so they'll stay hot for longer after being turned off than an incandescent. That thermal mass is in contact with the metal of the bulb too, so that can heat up as well. Incandescent bulbs get insanely hot when they are on, but cool off quickly because thin glass doesnt have a huge thermal mass, nor does a thin filament.
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Jan 31, 2017 06:21
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Slanderer posted:Uh, no not really. When the LED bulb gets hot, it emits IR too. It's a blackbody radiator when it's hot, just like the incandescent. But LED bulbs have a lot more thermal mass (since they have alumninum heatsinks and circuit assemblies), so they'll stay hot for longer after being turned off than an incandescent. That thermal mass is in contact with the metal of the bulb too, so that can heat up as well. Incandescent bulbs get insanely hot when they are on, but cool off quickly because thin glass doesnt have a huge thermal mass, nor does a thin filament. Of course LED lamps obey the laws of physics and emit blackbody radiation, but that’s not how they produce visible light. If your LED bulb gets to 400 K, it will break. If your incandescent bulb doesn’t reach 2700 K, it is already broken. Thermal mass has nothing to do with it.
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Jan 31, 2017 06:51
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I'm confused by the thermal mass comment, too, in respect to life of bulbs.
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Jan 31, 2017 06:55
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Platystemon posted:Of course LED lamps obey the laws of physics and emit blackbody radiation, but that’s not how they produce visible light. Yes, I have a physics degree. I know how LEDs work. I think you missed the original point, which was that Crotch Fruit said Crotch Fruit posted:in my experience the base of Cree LED bulbs where the transformer is located gets ridiculously hot The bases of normal incandescent bulbs get much, much hotter. Except you don't touch them while they're on, and they cool off faster once turned off because they have less thermal mass for the same surface area compared to an LED bulb. So if I turned off my ceiling lights and went to switch out the bulbs, in the time it takes me to drag over a chair to stand on to reach the lights, incandescent bulbs might have cooled off, but LED bulbs will still be hot. A lot of the emitted IR of an incandescent will go into self-heating the glass (and the glass), but that has a large surface area so it gets cooled off quickly LED bulbs won't heat up their plastic or glass envelope as much, and most of it is confined to the bulbs base, which is where is radiates from (while less surface area then the glass of an incandescent bulb). But regardless of the % of power that goes into self-heating (depending on the type of incandescent bulb), LED bulbs can give the appearance of heating up more because they remain hotter for longer after they are turned off That's the only point i'm trying to make lol Slanderer fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 07:46
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I thought we were concerned about burning the electronics in the lamp, not the flesh in our hands.
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Jan 31, 2017 08:02
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I like having fleshy hands. I would prefer to not become a skellington, even if it would make changing bulbs easier.
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Jan 31, 2017 08:34
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Motronic posted:Yes, a bad solder joint or broken pipe. There is deflection in your floor when you have water weight on it. This could potentially be enough to make a poor connection leak. Obsoletely Fabulous posted:We literally just fixed that issue on our tub two weeks ago. It was leaking from the drain pipe only when a full tub was draining. We figured it was due to the weight of the water above putting enough pressure in to the drain to cause the leak. THE EXTRA WEIGHT! Imagine the mysterysolved ghost but happy because you've saved me elaborate reenactments. I've narrowed it down to two but will have to get it leaking again to figure out which one. Hopefully it's just a patch job and I don't have to replace the whole thing. And now some actual content, my neighbors' dubious decks.  
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Jan 31, 2017 08:43
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Leperflesh posted:https://www.earthled.com/collections/led-light-bulbs-suitable-for-enclosed-fixtures-fully-enclosed-fixture-rated-led-light-bulbs An LED will get hot enough to kill itself, but it's not going to start a fire. Hopefully. E:F;B I think.
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Jan 31, 2017 12:14
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I had lights in the walls in my previous house. They got so loving hot that I only put something in front of them once: a piece of luggage right before I was leaving for a holiday. Burnt a hole in maybe 2 minutes, it was crazy. Never happened again, I was totally paranoid about putting anything in front of them after that. Then again, it's not really paranoia if it's true, right? I eventually replaced all of them with LEDs that were actually safe to touch.
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Jan 31, 2017 13:09
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Crotch Fruit posted:You *might still regret this, in my experience the base of Cree LED bulbs where the transformer is located gets ridiculously hot, I think they are supposed to put out about the same amount of heat as whatever bulb they are the equivalent of. I will say when I put a 100W Cree in my single bulb kitchen fixture the bulb overheated like 2 or 3 times within months. The strange part is I am still using the very same bulb and it hasn't overheated in a very, very long time, it probably roasted shut and shorted out it's overheat protection thus leaving me with a bright fire hazard. I've found that those ceiling mounted nipple lamps are the worst for this. One of them is basically guaranteed to burn out if you fill both sockets with LED bulbs. The remaining bulbs have been going on and on though. I would like more light than there is currently, so eventually I'm just going to replace the fixtures with ballasts and put some LED tubes in.
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Jan 31, 2017 15:09
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I've retrofitted the commercial building where I work with a ton of LED lights over the last 5 years and heat seems to be the biggest problem. Some bulbs have tiny fans in the base that fail and when those go the light promptly dies. Tons of problems with MR16 bulbs whining and when we change them out it always appears heat damaged. All the fixtures where I have problems are cans or down-lights in an enclosure. The open racks of lights with PAR30s where there's tons of airflow have almost no problems. Though, I also have a batch of 60 Philips LEDs in my elevators that have held up great for about 5 years straight, some of the first lamps we switched out. They must have accidentally "overbuilt" an early model.
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Jan 31, 2017 15:33
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In my master bathroom, we have 2 separate 3-light fixtures over our long counter. The fixtures have open ended glass shades on them. Would those be okay to fill up with LED bulbs? My fiance constantly says the bathroom is too dark.
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Jan 31, 2017 15:42
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10 Beers posted:In my master bathroom, we have 2 separate 3-light fixtures over our long counter. The fixtures have open ended glass shades on them. Would those be okay to fill up with LED bulbs? My fiance constantly says the bathroom is too dark. Yeah, go for it. The problems people are talking about in this thread are basically entirely for situations where there's multiple bulbs in an enclosed space with no airflow, so heat can't dissipate. You won't have that problem. Incidentally, I hate can lights. The vast majority of residential can light installations I've seen are set up so that if you decide you want to look at the half of the room the lights are installed in, you get a spotlight effect burned into your retinas. Give me lights with actual proper diffusers, please.
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Jan 31, 2017 16:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Incidentally, I hate can lights. The vast majority of residential can light installations I've seen are set up so that if you decide you want to look at the half of the room the lights are installed in, you get a spotlight effect burned into your retinas. Give me lights with actual proper diffusers, please. My mother-in-law had her kitchen redone a few years ago, and they replaced the two tube fluorescent fixture in the center of the kitchen with a bunch of can lights around the perimeter. My father-in-law told her repeatedly that the can lights weren't going to produce enough diffused light in the kitchen, but she insisted that they would. A few weeks after the kitchen was done, they had another fluorescent fixture put in the middle of the kitchen.
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Jan 31, 2017 18:37
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My last house had a single light at the center of the kitchen ceiling, it looked well-lit but no matter where you stood you cast a shadow directly over what you were working on.
Alereon fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 18:59
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Why did they put extremely bright office-building style fluorescents in kitchens between the 70's and 80's ?? Whyyyy? My friend is living in a late 70's house and all the bathrooms and kitchen have them and they are absolutely awful. Also a commercial style suspended ceiling in the kitchen to match the lighting fixture.
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Jan 31, 2017 19:12
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Baronjutter posted:Why did they put extremely bright office-building style fluorescents in kitchens between the 70's and 80's ?? Whyyyy? My friend is living in a late 70's house and all the bathrooms and kitchen have them and they are absolutely awful. Also a commercial style suspended ceiling in the kitchen to match the lighting fixture. My apartment has this exact kitchen situation and we hate it. It's a 4-unit single-story brick apartment building built in....the 70s.
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Jan 31, 2017 19:30
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there wolf posted:And now some actual content, my neighbors' dubious decks. For only 20 dollars a day we will throw your child off our deck, killing them
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Jan 31, 2017 19:31
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I just also wanted to chime in to remind everyone that if you need to buy LEDs for ceiling fans, try to make sure the ones you get are dimmable. I didn't realize that modern ceiling fans generally have a wattage limiter in them. I put non-dimmable bulbs in one, and they'd constantly shut on and off (presumable from some sort of internal protection circuit). It was a pain until I finally figure out what caused it.
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Jan 31, 2017 19:59
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Does anyone have a copy of the zipline thread before he edited out all his posts? I never got to read it in all its glory.
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Jan 31, 2017 20:51
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Alereon posted:My last house had a single light at the center of the kitchen ceiling, it looked well-lit but no matter were you stood you cast a shadow directly over what you were working on. This is my office right now. A rectangular room with two lights centered on the short axis about five feet from the walls on the long axis. I upgraded them from a pair of lovely incandescent globes to LED domes, but shadows are still a bitch. Track lighting is probably going to go up soon to make up for it, but I'm likely to be moving things around soon so I want to get that handled first.
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Jan 31, 2017 23:24
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xergm posted:I just also wanted to chime in to remind everyone that if you need to buy LEDs for ceiling fans, try to make sure the ones you get are dimmable. I love you so much right now for solving the mystery of the CFLs that make scary noises and die in the living room fan. At least, I think I do. Gonna get some dimmable LEDs tomorrow and test it out.
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Feb 1, 2017 05:46
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xergm posted:I just also wanted to chime in to remind everyone that if you need to buy LEDs for ceiling fans, try to make sure the ones you get are dimmable. My ceiling fans are fully-enclosed luminaries and designed for a specially-sold ultra-compact CFL. It's really annoying. I replaced the fixture with a R7S and put a linear LED bulb in it, seems to be holding up so far.
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Feb 1, 2017 13:34
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xergm posted:I just also wanted to chime in to remind everyone that if you need to buy LEDs for ceiling fans, try to make sure the ones you get are dimmable. Huh. I tried putting candelabra cfls in the ceiling fan in the kitchen of this apartment and they wouldn't work right. Guess I know why now.
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Feb 1, 2017 15:04
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 If fifteen million pounds of concrete isn’t safe from communists, what hope does four hundred have?
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Feb 1, 2017 18:21
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I think there's a thunderbirds episode about that. They're like moving the empire state building on huge rails to make room for a bigger building, and it falls over. I remember as a kid thinking the entire concept was rather far fetched.
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Feb 1, 2017 18:26
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Platystemon posted:
That's cool, but they should have kept it on the rails and used it like a gate that they could open and close at will.
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Feb 1, 2017 18:38
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`Nemesis posted:Huh. I tried putting candelabra cfls in the ceiling fan in the kitchen of this apartment and they wouldn't work right. Guess I know why now. Does it have a dimmer? ~Coxy posted:My ceiling fans are fully-enclosed luminaries and designed for a specially-sold ultra-compact CFL. It's really annoying. The ceiling fan in my family room only takes 40W bulbs and the space under the glass is freaking tiny, limiting to only candelabra bulbs. I wanted to switch to CFLs to cheat on the brightness, but regular CFLs were too big to fit under the glass. Eventually I found these micro mini CFLs from Sylvania that fit, after I bent around on the brackets the sockets were mounted to. That was awhile ago, before there were too many candelabra LED bulbs. None have burnt out in awhile, so I haven't had the opportunity to check to see if newer LED bulbs would fit. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Feb 1, 2017 |
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Feb 1, 2017 19:22
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I found mini candelabra LED bulbs that work fine in my ceiling fans in every room. They're not as bright as I would like, but that's partially because the glass around them is a translucent brown/yellow fancy color thing. I supplement it with various other lights including some Hue BR-30's in track lighting, or stand up lamps of the sort that reflect off the ceiling in other rooms. Works well enough.
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Feb 1, 2017 20:35
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If you have a fixture that takes bulbs with weird bases, you can probably buy a pack of screw-base adapters for $.10 each on Amazon that let you use a more normal size.
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Feb 1, 2017 20:58
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Alereon posted:If you have a fixture that takes bulbs with weird bases, you can probably buy a pack of screw-base adapters for $.10 each on Amazon that let you use a more normal size. I had to do that. Bought candelabra LEDs for the ceiling fan in the bedroom (they were on clearance), and then realized the stupid thing takes the size E17 (or A15 bulb) between normal (E26) and candelabra (E12), basically only used in ceiling fans and appliances. Adapters were super cheap.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:19
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Darchangel posted:I had to do that. Bought candelabra LEDs for the ceiling fan in the bedroom (they were on clearance), and then realized the stupid thing takes the size E17 (or A15 bulb) between normal (E26) and candelabra (E12), basically only used in ceiling fans and appliances. Adapters were super cheap.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:39
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Millennium Tower update, "The 58-story tower's shine faded on May 10, 2016, when Agabian attended a homeowners association meeting and was informed that the building had sunk 16 inches into the earth and tilted over 15 inches at its tip and 2 inches at the base" https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-02-01/who-will-pay-for-san-francisco-s-tilting-sinking-millennium-tower 
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Feb 2, 2017 03:21
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Lime Tonics posted:Millennium Tower update, I wish I could remember where I saw it, but there was some news report on this where one in one of the units, the owner placed a bearing on the floor and it took this crazy voyage of discovery through his apartment.
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Feb 2, 2017 03:28
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flosofl posted:I wish I could remember where I saw it, but there was some news report on this where one in one of the units, the owner placed a bearing on the floor and it took this crazy voyage of discovery through his apartment. Yes, the guy with the lovely engineered hardwood floor that was just as likely to be not flat due to poor installation as the building settling. Hardly convincing. Now this: http://www.esa.int/Our_Activities/Observing_the_Earth/Copernicus/Sentinel-1/Satellites_confirm_sinking_of_San_Francisco_tower Yes. I'm very convinced by things like that. Not some SF loonie who let the media into his home and rolled his balls on the floor.
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