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an skeleton posted:I moved to a new state about 4 months ago. Right before I left, I sold my car to someone (an ex-coworker who sent me 2 payments spaced about a month apart). I signed the title etc. and he promised to go file the paperwork. Everything I had read online re: my state's procedures lead me to believe that things were kosher and that it was his responsibility from that point on. If you signed the title over, it's his car. The notices are coming to you still because he's never filed for a new one or registered it. As long as you have your money, it's not your problem. I guess you could save the letters for record-keeping's sake, but I don't see any liability on you at this point. IANAL and all that.
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Feb 7, 2017 15:08
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You always want to complete a title transfer notification form to the state. Technically you're the owner in the states eyes. You'd have a defense by filing a form saying you sold it, but this is why it's best to go with the buyer to the DMV in person and get it done.
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Feb 7, 2017 15:22
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My friend is pulling the heads off his 2001 Chevrolet Impala (white). It's a V6 engine and we've had a bitch of a time with everything to do with the exhaust system. When he puts it all back together, will it hurt anything to leave off those stupid little shrouds that go over the exhaust manifolds?
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Feb 7, 2017 19:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I thought I remembered reading something about JCP/Firestone doing buyouts on the lifetimes now? Or something about having to buy the new battery and get reimbursed? The JCP buyout is for ones that were originally sold via JCP - Firestone bought their service centers and eventually forced a buyout / refund on those. The actual Firestone ones are supposedly still covered, but it's heavily dependent on which store you go to and who there you're talking to (since I'd wager a lot of their workforce is now younger than said warranty). The one nearest me has been the easiest to deal with by far. Amusingly enough, the fact that they both want me to keep going through Firestone (instead of buying a Costco battery) is pretty much the one thing my (divorced) parents still agree on. It was sold to them as a lifetime battery, they're still alive, the truck's still alive, so it still applies! big crush on Chad OMG posted:You always want to complete a title transfer notification form to the state. Technically you're the owner in the states eyes. You'd have a defense by filing a form saying you sold it, but this is why it's best to go with the buyer to the DMV in person and get it done. This is how I plan on completing any future used-car transactions I ever go through. I nearly got burned on buying the Ranger, and multiple times both buying/selling I've had the MVD not accept a notarized title for the most trivial of reasons. At least in AZ they allow third-party companies to provide MVD services for an additional fee. Most of them are open far later than the MVD, with nearly nonexistent lines, and the $20 fee on top of everything else is worth it just to get it done.
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Feb 7, 2017 19:25
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an skeleton posted:
If you competed the notice of transfer online I believe you should be fine, liability-wise (it's usually supposed to be done within X days tho, and I'm no lawyer etc). What I have always done is have the buyer fill in his address and name on the pink slip tear-off transfer slip ("hey man can you put your info down, it'll be faster lol"), then I go home and immediately fill out the DMVs online transfer notice. I keep the original slip with buyer's handwriting on it clipped to the bill of sale, a printed copy of the online transfer confirmation # and any other old paperwork on the car. Luckily I haven't had a deadbeat like you yet, but I figure that should keep me pretty well covered. If I were you I'd just toss all the mail you're getting in a box somewhere, and wait for him to call you someday needing some of it after he finally gets pulled over. Some people are really intent on learning the hard way, nothing you can do with them.
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Feb 7, 2017 20:57
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Many states call what you're calling the "notice of transfer" the "release of liability" form. You're good.
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Feb 7, 2017 21:04
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Anyone else have issues with the fuel gauge on the 2004 Prius? I have one, 230k+ on it so I don't expect everything to be perfect, but the fuel gauge claims that it's empty when there's still 2 or more gallons left. I've tried the reset procedure listed here, and variations on it that start with using trip one instead of odo, etc, but none seem to work. Looking for a way to get it calibrate correctly.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:41
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Literally Esoteric posted:Anyone else have issues with the fuel gauge on the 2004 Prius? Have you driven it to empty and verified those two gallons actually exist, or are you going by the amount it takes when you fill it up? The bladder becomes less flexible when it’s cold, probably also with age, so that it cannot be filled to full rated capacity.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:45
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Has it ever been accurate at E or is this a recent development? Car fuel gauges are notoriously inaccurate across pretty much all makes and models, however you do want to be notified ahead of time that you're getting low on fuel and the majority of the driving public will assume there's still gas in the tank until the gauge hits E. In traditional (non-hybrid) vehicles its not terribly uncommon to have the low fuel light kick on with 2-3 gallons left in the tank so you have a reasonable amount of range left before you actually run out of gas so its possible this is a feature and not a bug.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:48
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Pham Nuwen posted:My friend is pulling the heads off his 2001 Chevrolet Impala (white). It's a V6 engine and we've had a bitch of a time with everything to do with the exhaust system. When he puts it all back together, will it hurt anything to leave off those stupid little shrouds that go over the exhaust manifolds? i wouldn't they do serve a purpose. especially the ones on the back side above the convertor. This is also where you melt the power steering line on the back side if you don't put it together right.
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Feb 8, 2017 00:16
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Preoptopus posted:i wouldn't they do serve a purpose. especially the ones on the back side above the convertor. This is also where you melt the power steering line on the back side if you don't put it together right. drat, well, I'll tell him to put it all back together properly and not slack. Those little shrouds are a real pain in the cock, though.
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Feb 8, 2017 01:01
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Platystemon posted:Have you driven it to empty and verified those two gallons actually exist, or are you going by the amount it takes when you fill it up? Actually this is possible - I've been going by how many it takes to fill it up, not by an empirical fuel remaining measurement. I decided to ignore the gauge and go by MPG about 4 months ago, which resulted in driving it until it stalled, and I of course didn't note how much it then took to refill. I was unaware there was a stretching bladder system in fuel tanks. Geoj posted:Has it ever been accurate at E or is this a recent development? It was pretty accurate 10 years ago. Now when it thinks it's empty I put 8.7 gallons into a "11.9" gallon tank, and I don't want to push it further because of that time it stalled out. Perhaps it's time to drive it to E, put a gallon in a gas can, and drive it until I get a real measurement? It seems asinine to have the system work this way, and even stupider to pay some assumedly ridiculous amount to get a new fuel bladder.
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Feb 8, 2017 01:17
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Literally Esoteric posted:I was unaware there was a stretching bladder system in fuel tanks. I'm pretty sure the bladder was more of a Prius thing, and Toyota did away with it starting in 2010. IIRC it was to help control evaporative emissions - instead of replacing the empty space with fresh air, the bladder just shrunk a bit. There were several lawsuits over it; specifically, the lawsuits were about the bladder failing to allow you to fill them to capacity in cold weather.
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Feb 8, 2017 01:25
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Pham Nuwen posted:drat, well, I'll tell him to put it all back together properly and not slack. Those little shrouds are a real pain in the cock, though. Ive used self tapper screws with some washers if the original fasteners are poo poo.
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Feb 8, 2017 01:47
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:There were several lawsuits over it; specifically, the lawsuits were about the bladder failing to allow you to fill them to capacity in cold weather. This lawsuit is almost as dumb as the ones over the definition of “gigabyte”. “I spent an additional five minutes filling up over several months. Give me money.”
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Feb 8, 2017 01:49
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Literally Esoteric posted:Perhaps it's time to drive it to E, put a gallon in a gas can, and drive it until I get a real measurement? It seems asinine to have the system work this way, and even stupider to pay some assumedly ridiculous amount to get a new fuel bladder. Based on what everyone is saying this is a probably your best bet, with the worn fuel bladder 8.7 gallons is likely your new "full."
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Feb 8, 2017 01:50
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Platystemon posted:This lawsuit is almost as dumb as the ones over the definition of “gigabyte”. Eh, the bladders won't take their full capacity once they age a bit, and the computer will be telling you that you can go <x> number of miles when that number is really a much lower number. At least even with the diminished capacity, a Prius still has downright decent range, but you won't be able to trust any "distance to empty" estimate given by the car, which could potentially cause someone to run out of gas in the middle of nowhere.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:23
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Eh, the bladders won't take their full capacity once they age a bit, and the computer will be telling you that you can go <x> number of miles when that number is really a much lower number. Gen 2 Prius doesn’t have a distance to empty readout, and the fuel gauge accurately reflects the tank’s diminished capacity, or at least the point where fuel exhaustion is imminent. If the plaintiffs blindly trust miles driven over the flashing fuel gauge, ADD FUEL text, and warning beep, that’s on them. That article is from 2013, so maybe they were suing over the gen 3 Prius at that point, though. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Feb 8, 2017 |
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Feb 8, 2017 02:30
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I wasn't aware they didn't have a distance to empty function on the gen 2.  The article I linked specifically states 2004-2009, which is gen 2, right?
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Feb 8, 2017 02:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I wasn't aware they didn't have a distance to empty function on the gen 2. 2004–2009 is gen 2, but that part is behind a paywall for me.
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Feb 8, 2017 02:44
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Weird. I was able to view the full article the first time; I'm not able to view it again, even using a different browser. Maybe they make older articles free to view until they see a sudden influx of interest in an article?
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Feb 8, 2017 03:17
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Did you reach it through a search engine? That’s probably it.
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Feb 8, 2017 03:22
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Huh, that's a thing? Yeah, it came up in a Google search. I'm able to read the entire article if I go through the same search. Quoting the relevant part here, now that I can see it again. quote:The Troups are the only remaining plaintiffs in a case that was originally filed in February 2010 on behalf of owners of 2004-2009 Prius models, which were manufactured with a flexible fuel bladder rather than a steel or plastic gas tank. The fuel bladder is made of a flexible resin and is designed to collapse as fuel is pumped to the engine. Title of the article is "Prius Drivers Tell 9th Circ. Warranty Covers Fuel Tank Flaw", and now that I have the name of the article, it's the first link that comes up on Google when searching that exact phrase.
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Feb 8, 2017 03:31
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What brake pads would be comparable to the stock ones found on an 08 Cayman? I need to replace my rotors/pads this spring. I used to have EBC Reds on my Audi TT, but I'm not sure how they compare to what's on the Porsche.
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Feb 8, 2017 16:47
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I just bought a great used car with terrible, lovely, awful rims. Anyone know if there's a better place to try to unload those than craigslist or ebay? This is in the bay area.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I wasn't aware they didn't have a distance to empty function on the gen 2.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:47
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ought ten posted:I just bought a great used car with terrible, lovely, awful rims. Anyone know if there's a better place to try to unload those than craigslist or ebay? This is in the bay area. Find the local used tire place and see if they'll give you $20 for them? I've sold a lot of poo poo on Craigslist but remember that the cheaper the poo poo you're selling, the more idiots you're going to get who want to trade for meth.
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Feb 8, 2017 21:58
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The Wonder Weapon posted:What brake pads would be comparable to the stock ones found on an 08 Cayman? I need to replace my rotors/pads this spring. I used to have EBC Reds on my Audi TT, but I'm not sure how they compare to what's on the Porsche. Just use a good brand like TRW, Bosch, or Brembo. e: you do need to check if you have ceramic discs, because those require different pads. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Feb 9, 2017 |
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Feb 9, 2017 09:13
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spankmeister posted:Just use a good brand like TRW, Bosch, or Brembo. Four-piston aluminum monobloc calipers with cross-drilled inner-vented brake discs Front: 298 mm x 24 mm (11.73 in. x 0.94 in.) Rear: 299 mm x 20 mm (11.78 in. x 0.79 in.) Doesn't look ceramic. I didn't realize the front and rear discs were different; I'll have to keep that in mind when ordering. Thanks. e: lol Brembos are $4k a set? It's a Cayman, not a 911 Turbo. The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Feb 9, 2017 |
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Feb 9, 2017 16:09
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I work from home and 1) I want a car that is fun to drive, 2) I don't drive often, and 3) when I need to drive, it absolutely must work. With that in mind I'd like to get a nice car, but I want to make sure it doesn't get hosed up just sitting around. So the question is - If you have a nice car that sits in your driveway, what kind of maintenance should you do based on time rather than miles, and what should I look out for if I leave my car sitting in the driveway for like a month?
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Feb 9, 2017 16:19
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Literally Esoteric posted:Anyone else have issues with the fuel gauge on the 2004 Prius?
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Feb 9, 2017 17:14
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signalnoise posted:So the question is - If you have a nice car that sits in your driveway, what kind of maintenance should you do based on time rather than miles, and what should I look out for if I leave my car sitting in the driveway for like a month? At a bare minimum hook the battery up to a trickle charger and add some fuel stabilizer to your gas tank. Even if you don't have to drive it you might want to at least drive it until the engine comes up to temperature once a week, this will keep all of the engine & transmission seals covered in fresh oil, keep the oil from absorbing too much moisture out of the air (by evaporating it out of the oil) and keep your tires from developing flat spots. If you can't put a trickle charger on the battery this will also keep the battery charged.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:22
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signalnoise posted:I work from home and 1) I want a car that is fun to drive, 2) I don't drive often, and 3) when I need to drive, it absolutely must work. With that in mind I'd like to get a nice car, but I want to make sure it doesn't get hosed up just sitting around. If you are only going to drive once a month, is a car really something you need? Or is it an unnecessary luxury item? My very rough napkin math suggests that renting a car once a month would be cheaper than a car payment plus insurance plus maintenence.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:32
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signalnoise posted:I work from home and 1) I want a car that is fun to drive, 2) I don't drive often, and 3) when I need to drive, it absolutely must work. With that in mind I'd like to get a nice car, but I want to make sure it doesn't get hosed up just sitting around. Get a Tesla, park it on plastic cups that reduce flat spotting?
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Feb 9, 2017 17:32
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Geoj posted:At a bare minimum hook the battery up to a trickle charger and add some fuel stabilizer to your gas tank. Apart from these wise words (note that a solar battery trickle charger may work for you), depending on the weather, your brakes might seize up, so you might want to consider using chocks and leaving it in gear. Of course if you follow CharlieWhiskey's suggestion, you'll avoid all these issues and have a spotless, faultless car every time, plus cash in your pocket.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:35
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signalnoise posted:I work from home and 1) I want a car that is fun to drive, 2) I don't drive often, and 3) when I need to drive, it absolutely must work. With that in mind I'd like to get a nice car, but I want to make sure it doesn't get hosed up just sitting around. Take Lyfts everywhere, use the money you save on random trips to all over the country.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:37
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I will drive at least once a week, I guess I underestimated the idea of not driving much? So maybe a better question is how infrequent is too infrequent?
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Feb 9, 2017 17:42
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signalnoise posted:I will drive at least once a week, I guess I underestimated the idea of not driving much? So maybe a better question is how infrequent is too infrequent? Once a month = flat battery, mildly seized brakes Once every 6 months = gas gone bad, more risk of corrosion, failed seals, interior mould = it all depends on the car and environment assuming that when you do use it, you get it a solid long run
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Feb 9, 2017 18:09
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Fwiw, my car gets driven only weekends when weather/road conditions/health permit me to bike to work, and it's not really driven every weekend either. The worst that's happened to it from disuse thus far is enough rust on the brake rotors that they squeal a bit for the first few decelerations.
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Feb 9, 2017 18:17
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Chiming in for Fiesta if you want a dirt-cheap car that is nice for the price, all depends on what you want to spend. My brakes softly squeal on the first couple accelerations even overnight, guess it's because I live in a humid area and rust forms quickly.
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Feb 9, 2017 18:58
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