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You could also call that a Cascadian Cream Ale.
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Feb 7, 2017 22:11
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robotsinmyhead posted:My MWIPA is kind of a joke / twist on the NEIPA thing, only instead of Wheat/Flour to get some haze going, I'm using Corn (cause midwest) in the form of Corn Masa. It's about 21% of the grist by weight, so there's a lot in there and I'm hoping for something interesting. Eh. Two Hearted is an east-coast style IPA. NEIPA is a phenomenon and stylistically different. Trying to force geography-based styles ala Cascadian is hogwash.
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Feb 7, 2017 23:52
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Australian brewing goons https://goo.gl/forms/0R4xDi2xGcmQ7Wt12 Get in on this if you're chasing some Yeast Bay stock. I have teed up a bulk buy with a supplier in Melbourne to do an order in April. We have already hit minimum order volume between four of us so everything else is just cheapening it all. I'm organising it all through AHB but feel free to leave (SA) after your username if you're not on AHB so I know you're a goon. Timeline is closed for orders on the 26th, payment timeline im unsure yet but will be based on Clever brewing' requirements!
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Feb 9, 2017 13:39
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Don't miss out on the Dark Franconian Lager. That is hands down my favorite lager yeast.
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Feb 9, 2017 14:27
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rockcity posted:Don't miss out on the Dark Franconian Lager. That is hands down my favorite lager yeast. I have three vials of it on my 14 vial order  3 of hessian pils as well. I love Franco Dark. I did a Baltic Porter with it that was incredible, I'll be doing my go-to recipe for my smoked foreign extra on it sometime soon too
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Feb 10, 2017 09:35
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Seems like I'm putting too much faith in Brewer's Friend. My beer from last Saturday is done fermenting and stable at 1.010. BF Calculated it at 1.017, so it's much dryer than I had anticipated - BF however doesn't have a fermentable for Corn Masa, so I just used Flaked Corn. . Also due to my mistake, my FWH turned into a 60min addition, and, when calculating IBU from Whirlpool additions, it ended up at 115IBU. Taking away the residual sweetness from the higher calculated FG, this is turning from a juicy NEIPA clone to a more traditional IPA in character. I don't know how much faith I put in IBU calculations, especially with whirlpools, but we'll find out soon enough.
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Feb 11, 2017 16:35
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robotsinmyhead posted:Seems like I'm putting too much faith in Brewer's Friend. My beer from last Saturday is done fermenting and stable at 1.010. BF Calculated it at 1.017, so it's much dryer than I had anticipated - BF however doesn't have a fermentable for Corn Masa, so I just used Flaked Corn. . Also due to my mistake, my FWH turned into a 60min addition, and, when calculating IBU from Whirlpool additions, it ended up at 115IBU. Whirlpool hops are sort of difficult to calculate. The temperature is slowly dropping and there is progressively less isomerization as it gets cooler. I only count the time it spends over about 175-180 toward the IBU and it seems to come out pretty close. However if you are using a lot of high IBU whirlpool hops a small difference can mean like 50 IBU... It takes some trial and error with a given recipe.
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Feb 11, 2017 21:17
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I don't have the room or budget to keg, so I just bottle right now. We have a kegerator at work though, and I would love to brew up a batch to throw in there. Would it be feasible to lug an empty home, clean/sanitize it, throw a batch straight in there from my fermentor, and force carb it back at the office?
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Feb 12, 2017 01:23
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JohnnySmitch posted:I don't have the room or budget to keg, so I just bottle right now. We have a kegerator at work though, and I would love to brew up a batch to throw in there. Would it be feasible to lug an empty home, clean/sanitize it, throw a batch straight in there from my fermentor, and force carb it back at the office? Yes, that's certainly feasible, but you won't have any pressure until you connect it to the CO2. You could also prime with sugar in a keg too if you have the time to spend.
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Feb 12, 2017 01:36
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You could get one of those keg chargers that uses the little paintball gun CO2 cartridges.
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Feb 12, 2017 01:55
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Der Penguingott posted:Whirlpool hops are sort of difficult to calculate. The temperature is slowly dropping and there is progressively less isomerization as it gets cooler. I only count the time it spends over about 175-180 toward the IBU and it seems to come out pretty close. However if you are using a lot of high IBU whirlpool hops a small difference can mean like 50 IBU... It takes some trial and error with a given recipe. I've been reading up on how whirlpool affect IBU, but the 'science' isn't really settled so there's lots of conflicting information. I ended up doing 4oz of Apollo and Amarillo a couple minutes after shutting the gas off. I didn't check the temp, but I'm guessing it was in the 190F range. If I do this again, I will definitely wait to add this until I'm under 180.
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Feb 12, 2017 14:49
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Toebone posted:You could get one of those keg chargers that uses the little paintball gun CO2 cartridges. Food grade CO2, please. Don't want industrial oil residue in your beer! Related: I got one of these for Christmas last year and I'm still in love with it. http://www.growlerwerks.com/products/ukeg-64-pressurized-growler really only makes sense if you're low on space, get it as a gift, or just really enjoy since a real keg system isn't much more expensive
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Feb 12, 2017 15:02
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Toebone posted:You could get one of those keg chargers that uses the little paintball gun CO2 cartridges. I take kegs to football games (I have season tickets) and I use these CO2 charges to push the beer at at the tailgate. But that's because I don't want to lug a 5# tank regulator and hoses around. You do pay for the connivance. If you do the math 5# of CO2 in 16 g increments is well over $200. in fairness, 5#s if CO2 in 16 g increments would be enough for me to push out beer at home games for the next five years. To answer the question/suggestion I would think that would work OK as long as your moving between Home and Office directly. Gas in keg head space compresses at volume. So a full key with little head space is only going to accommodate so much CO2. And that CO2 is immediately going to start dissolving in unsaturated beer. Jostling the beer around (in the car) will accelerate that. I think you'd be OK to charge and drive. You really only need enough pressure to keep the lid sealed.
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Feb 13, 2017 14:58
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Did my first batch doing a full volume boil over the weekend and am excited to see how it turns out! Thanks for all of the great advice in this thread. I also rigged up a thermometer and little enclosure for my bottles to condition in, temp ranges have been 69.8-72 degrees, which is hopefully warm enough and prevents the lack of carbonation I've been experiencing in my last couple of brews. Also came up with this recipe (my first I've created on my own) based off of some similar beers that I've made and liked and just wanting to try some new hops. Does this look totally awful or like a bad idea? Going for a classic American Pale Ale: code:
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Feb 13, 2017 18:50
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I'd just do the Chinook at 60 minutes, and move the Williamette and Centennial to later in the boil, or at flameout. Putting everything in that early will make for a very bitter beer, way more than you'd typically want in a pale ale. Also, if you have somewhere you can buy grain, look into getting some crystal malt for steeping - it'll add a bit of complexity and body that you won't get just from extract.
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Feb 13, 2017 19:23
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Toebone posted:I'd just do the Chinook at 60 minutes, and move the Williamette and Centennial to later in the boil, or at flameout. Putting everything in that early will make for a very bitter beer, way more than you'd typically want in a pale ale. Also, if you have somewhere you can buy grain, look into getting some crystal malt for steeping - it'll add a bit of complexity and body that you won't get just from extract. Thanks for the tip! The hops timing was my main concern as I didnt want it to be overly bitter but am still trying to learn how to balance bitterness vs aroma and mouthfeel. I forgot to add in my steeping grains. I'd like to do about 3/4 pound of 2-row or Briess Caramel.
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Feb 13, 2017 19:29
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Thanks for the tip! The hops timing was my main concern as I didnt want it to be overly bitter but am still trying to learn how to balance bitterness vs aroma and mouthfeel. I forgot to add in my steeping grains. I'd like to do about 3/4 pound of 2-row or Briess Caramel. It's worth punching your recipes into a calculator to get an idea of how the hops will affect your IBU, if nothing else. Despite my recent problems with IBU calculations (mostly with Whirlpools), it's a quick and dirty way to get a ballpark estimate of your IBU and balance. I ran that up as-written and it was 88+ IBU for a fairly light beer - that profile is gonna be REALLY bitter. I think for a long time, the prescribed wisdom was 60min addition, 30min addition, 15min addition, and anymore with my Pale/IPA beers I'm doing 60min, 10min (maybe) , whirlpool, dryhop. In my opinion, that gives you the best chance to really taste and smell the hops instead of extracting bitterness. It uses a lot more hops than standard beers, but it's worth it. vvv oh hey that looks much more reasonable. vvv robotsinmyhead fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Feb 13, 2017 |
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Feb 13, 2017 19:54
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Did my first batch doing a full volume boil over the weekend and am excited to see how it turns out! Thanks for all of the great advice in this thread. Are you meaning that you're adding the Centenial after 5 minutes or after 55 minutes? Because when we write up recipes we talk about the time remaining, so @45 is only 15' into the boil, while @15' is 45' into the boil. My guess is that you're adding them as flavor/aroma additions and that will come out just fine. Even without the steeping grains, it should be alright.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:30
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Jhet posted:Are you meaning that you're adding the Centenial after 5 minutes or after 55 minutes? Because when we write up recipes we talk about the time remaining, so @45 is only 15' into the boil, while @15' is 45' into the boil. My guess is that you're adding them as flavor/aroma additions and that will come out just fine. Even without the steeping grains, it should be alright. My mistake, yeah I meant to say with remaining time in boil. So my corrected recipe would look like this: code:robotsinmyhead posted:It's worth punching your recipes into a calculator to get an idea of how the hops will affect your IBU, if nothing else. Despite my recent problems with IBU calculations (mostly with Whirlpools), it's a quick and dirty way to get a ballpark estimate of your IBU and balance. I ran that up as-written and it was 88+ IBU for a fairly light beer - that profile is gonna be REALLY bitter. Holy hell brewing calculators are amazing and so much fun! I just signed up to brewers friend and it's really cool! I typed in my recipe and came up with the following info: Original Gravity - 1.052 Final Gravity - 1.014 Alcohol % - 5.07% IBU - 51.49 SRM - 7.29 This thing makes brewing even more fun. Going to head to NorthernBrewer this afternoon to pick everything up, but now I want to experiment and try and come up with some more new recipes.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:32
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I have spent so many hours noodling around with recipes in brewers friend.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:23
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I have spent LaserWash fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Feb 13, 2017 |
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Feb 13, 2017 22:38
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Anyone made a cream ale? I just listed to a podcast talking about them and I think I might give one a go. I have a friend coming to town in a month and a half and his favorite beer style is Kolsch, so I think I might do a fairly traditional cream ale grain bill and ferment it with a Kolsch yeast. I was thinking something like this. 4 lbs pale malt 4 lbs pilsner 1 lb flaked corn .5 lb corn sugar .25 oz Nugget at 60 min 1 oz Liberty at 5 min WY2656 Kolsch Yeast Probably do a 2 week primary at like 60 degrees and raise it up a bit to do a rest and clean up the ferment, then cold crash and keg to age it a bit until before my friend comes into town.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:52
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I've done a couple of cream ales. It's a pretty good style for warm-weather drinking, for sure. My grist was very similar to yours, although I did not include corn sugar in addition to flaked corn. I actually like it a little better with flaked rice, but corn is more correct if you're brewing to style. I also used Cascade for hopping, to about 22 IBU (way too high for style, but I liked it), and White Labs' Cream Ale Blend, WLP080. In short, it's really tasty in the right weather, and your recipe is very good for the style. I did mine off style and preferred it that way, but it's homebrew and I don't care.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:00
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Jo3sh posted:I've done a couple of cream ales. It's a pretty good style for warm-weather drinking, for sure. My grist was very similar to yours, although I did not include corn sugar in addition to flaked corn. I actually like it a little better with flaked rice, but corn is more correct if you're brewing to style. I also used Cascade for hopping, to about 22 IBU (way too high for style, but I liked it), and White Labs' Cream Ale Blend, WLP080. Yeah, mine is calculated at 18 IBU, so not far off from yours. Beersmith has it listed as 15-20, so I don't think you were exactly way out or anything and you're not the first person I've heard of using cascade. I thought about doing cascade too actually because I have it on hand, but I think I want to limit the more obvious hop character because this friend tends to not like hops very much.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:10
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Feb 14, 2017 21:04
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My MWIPA/NEIPA beer is done and it's kinda killer. It's definitely over-bittered due to my calculation problems, but it's juicy as hell. Got some foaming issues ATM since I redid my keg lines and my balance doesn't seem quite right, otherwise I'd take a pic. Cloudy and slightly orange from the Melanoiden. Very pretty.
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Feb 14, 2017 21:23
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robotsinmyhead posted:My MWIPA/NEIPA beer is done and it's kinda killer. It's definitely over-bittered due to my calculation problems, but it's juicy as hell. Got some foaming issues ATM since I redid my keg lines and my balance doesn't seem quite right, otherwise I'd take a pic. Cloudy and slightly orange from the Melanoiden. Very pretty. Post the recipe por favor.
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Feb 14, 2017 22:14
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FERMENTABLES: 6.5 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (68.4%) 2 lb - Flaked Corn (21.1%) -- (I USED CORN MASA INSTEAD OF FLAKED CORN. THERE IS NO FERMENTABLE FOR THIS IN BF AND IT PRODUCES SOME INACCURACIES) 1 lb - German - Melanoidin (10.5%) Calculated at ~98IBU, 5.8%ABV HOPS: 1 oz - Super Pride, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil for 55 min -- (THIS WAS SUPPOSED TO BE FWH, NOT 60MIN) 1 oz - Amarillo, Type: Pellet, Use: Whirlpool for 0 min at 180F, IBU: 23.42 2.65 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, Use: Whirlpool for 0 min at 180F -- (THIS APOLLO WAS NOT THE 17%+, IT WAS AROUND 12% - finished the bag, hence the weird amount) 0.5 oz - Super Pride, Use: Whirlpool for 0min at 180F 2 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days 1 oz - Amarillo, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.6, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days London Ale WLP013 -- Mistakes: Forgot my mash pH acid adjustment, only had gypsum for salt addition. hosed up the fwh. miscalculated the IBU (was aiming for 55ish). Input a low value for efficiency and got way higher than expected.
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Feb 14, 2017 22:47
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Did my first batch doing a full volume boil over the weekend and am excited to see how it turns out! Thanks for all of the great advice in this thread. Alternatively you could do a short grain steep with maybe 8oz of a medium crystal and some (200g/6oz) carapils or add some turbinado to add complexity in the malt? LaserWash posted:I have spent Same tbh
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Feb 15, 2017 04:44
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Quick question: I was culturing some Cooper's yeast from the bottle, and uh... life got in the way and it's basically been in my closet for 3 weeks (~18-20C). Tops are sealed with cling wrap and rubber bands, have been shaking them when I remember to. They still fizz up when shaken. Can I use this to brew with or do I need to start over? FWIW I did 4 bottles worth, which is supposed to be enough for a 21L batch, but I'm only doing 5.
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Feb 15, 2017 08:27
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Quick question: I was culturing some Cooper's yeast from the bottle, and uh... life got in the way and it's basically been in my closet for 3 weeks (~18-20C). Tops are sealed with cling wrap and rubber bands, have been shaking them when I remember to. They still fizz up when shaken. Taste it, should be perfectly safe to do if there is no mold as you basically have unhopped beer in there. I would guess there's a good chance it's sour, but if your cleanliness is golden you might be alright.
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Feb 15, 2017 10:21
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Biomute posted:Taste it, should be perfectly safe to do if there is no mold as you basically have unhopped beer in there. I would guess there's a good chance it's sour, but if your cleanliness is golden you might be alright. Alternatively WLP009? I think is Australian Sparkling Ale and it's actually the Coopers strain iirc, surely a vial of that wouldn't be hard to find if you're stuck in the US  San Francisco Lager also turned out an coopers sparkling clone for a friend recently! No idea why, it was a good base beer and the Lager yeast decided it was going to throw an almost identical character!!
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Feb 15, 2017 12:36
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Fork of Unknown Origins posted:
I bottled this 10 days ago and decided to open one today to make sure they aren't overcarbonated (because I'm extremely impatient) and if a little bit of this sweetness fades like it ought to this is a very good beer. Between my oatmeal stout and this coming out like I had hoped I'm feeling really good about my process. This recipe is definitely getting repeated someday.
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Feb 16, 2017 05:14
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Hello Fellow Beer Goons! Random question time! If I don't want to go the priming sugar route for carbonation of bottled beer, what are my options?
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Feb 17, 2017 21:26
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ASAPI posted:Hello Fellow Beer Goons! The only alternatives I can think of are flat beer, or something like fizz drops: http://www.northernbrewer.com/fermenters-favorites-fizz-drops-8-oz I've used them in the past with mixed results. It overcarbed a saison but was fine for some APAs.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:29
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BaseballPCHiker posted:The only alternatives I can think of are flat beer, or something like fizz drops: Unless he simply means not buying the corn sugar/dextrose that every homebrew store seems to sell. If that is the case, just use sucrose. Otherwise the options are more or less premeasured sugar tablets like fizz drops and kegging. kirtar fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 21:40
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ASAPI posted:Hello Fellow Beer Goons! Priming sugar of a different variety: table sugar, dry malt extract, fruit juice, maple syrup, honey, agave syrup, etc. Anything with a fermentable sugar in it that the remaining yeast can convert to CO2. Otherwise you're going to have to keg.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:45
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You can also do "real ale" bottle fermenting, i.e. bottling just before it finishes so the natural fermentation carbs it. This is very stupid in most cases because until you can consistently brew to a predictable FG, you are rolling some dangerous dice. If you have a friend with a kegging setup and a beer gun you can ask them for help bottling.
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Feb 17, 2017 22:38
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You could do it the way Sierra Nevada does it - they add a calculated amount of fresh wort and yeast at bottling time. I'm sure the calculation is doable, but I have never attempted it. You could ferment in a sealed pressure vessel with a relief valve, so that the beer carbonates itself as it ferments. You'd then have to package under pressure as well to avoid losing carbonation. You could force-carbonate in kegs, which is what I do. I find it quite suitable for my lazy process.
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Feb 17, 2017 23:38
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IPA that I brewed a few weeks ago turned out pretty nicely (Citra hops rock). OG was 1.060 for ~70% efficiency with FG at 1.015. It's not fully carbonated yet since I just bottled it last weekend, but I usually try a bottle ~1 week post bottling.
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Feb 18, 2017 03:28
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