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Thanks guys. I looked up some guides on using paper clips and hairpins. Not being one for finesse, I ended up using a long flat head and forcing the lock after multiple failed attempts at picking it.
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Feb 27, 2017 18:33
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Anyone in here ever owned a Kawi ZX7R? I made the mistake of buying one off of CL then finding out that these bikes are pretty notorious for having electrical gremlins. The bike will crank and crank all day long, but never makes an attempt to turn over. I've been troubleshooting the infamous "grey wire issue" and while I've seen some improvements in the voltage running through the wire. I haven't been able to get the bike to turn over. I've done pretty much all I can think of as far as troubleshooting is concerned. I'm waiting for a new ignition assembly to come in the mail. I'm hoping a new ignition will fix the issue as the current one is old and tired. However, if that doesn't solve my problems I'm pretty much out of ideas. The only next step I see is building a new wiring harness for the bike / replacing all of the major electrical components. I have a pretty large hardon for 90's sportbikes but at this point I'm pretty much into the bike for what I've paid for it trying to troubleshoot issues. I'm finding it pretty hard to dump money into a bike that I know I won't get my money out of at the end of the day. I've been posting on the only somewhat active zx7r forum I can find but haven't received much help. At this point I'm debating buying a new bike and pushing this one off of a cliff. I've owned the bike since oct 2016 and I've only been able to put ~200 miles on the thing.
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Feb 28, 2017 06:10
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Diametunim posted:Anyone in here ever owned a Kawi ZX7R? I made the mistake of buying one off of CL then finding out that these bikes are pretty notorious for having electrical gremlins. The bike will crank and crank all day long, but never makes an attempt to turn over. I've been troubleshooting the infamous "grey wire issue" and while I've seen some improvements in the voltage running through the wire. I haven't been able to get the bike to turn over. I've done pretty much all I can think of as far as troubleshooting is concerned. I'm waiting for a new ignition assembly to come in the mail. I'm hoping a new ignition will fix the issue as the current one is old and tired. However, if that doesn't solve my problems I'm pretty much out of ideas. The only next step I see is building a new wiring harness for the bike / replacing all of the major electrical components. Lets put 'er in reverse here chief. Have you got any kind of spark at all? When did it stop running and what did it do when that happened? If you've got no spark, and you're referring to the grey wire that goes from positive feed to the ecu, try sticking a 100 ohm resistor in there and see if it changes anything. Also make sure the positive and earth terminals on the coils are around the right way, on some kwakkas of that era black is positive and blue is earth for no reason that makes sense and the bike will still spark with them hooked up backwards but not in a way that will let the engine run. By 'ignition' I'm assuming cdi; they do fail occasionally so worth a crack, as well as the crank angle sensor which also occasionally fail. If you have spark, you're a dummy who has the ignition leads around the wrong way or there is something seriously wrong with the carbs or engine hardware itself. Edited for clarity. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Feb 28, 2017 |
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Feb 28, 2017 06:35
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What slavvy said, but also if you do end up going nuts and making your own harness, I think this is helpful (maybe posted by someone here previously) albeit a little nuts. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
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Feb 28, 2017 16:38
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My skid plate bolts keep shearing off at the heads. Originally I thought it was from my tool tube, but it's still happening. Think some rubber washers would fix this? To be fair, with all the rough riding it does take a lot of strain, but both KTM and Home Depot nuts have broken.
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Mar 2, 2017 23:24
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use stronger bolts and break poo poo else where
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Mar 3, 2017 00:40
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After I parked my bike the engine or... something kept making noise: a dr dr dr sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33hWMwSD-bg&feature=youtu.be You can sorta hear it with some clarity at 1min mark. I righted the bike from parked lean and the noise went away. It was kinda disconcerting. Also engine seemed hotter than normal. Any idea wtf? Bike is Brutale 800.
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Mar 3, 2017 03:45
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I couldn't hear jack poo poo even with everything turned right up, either I'm deaf or your video is super quiet.
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Mar 3, 2017 04:42
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Yeah, it seems very quiet :/. I will try to get a better one if it happens again. Hopefully it's just the headers or something.
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Mar 3, 2017 04:48
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I heard it at the 1:00 mark. It's definitely something hot that is cooling down, like your exhaust
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Mar 3, 2017 14:21
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I've noticed some of my links are a bit sticky in the chain on the SV650, so I think that's a good enough reason to do a chain job. Are there any chain/sprocket brands I should avoid? I know D.I.D. for chains and that's about it. I don't need anything fancy, this is a "track bike" but for now it's my daily rider. Still saving my pennies for track gear. Any problems with this kit with a 15/45 setup? There are a couple other 525 kits as well. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Mar 3, 2017 |
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Mar 3, 2017 15:31
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Did, Regina and RK tend to be good inexpensive brands for chain. JT and sunstar sprockets are usually cheap and good as well. Avoid the house brand chain and sprockets from places like Rocky Mountain atv. They are no name Chinese brands.
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Mar 3, 2017 16:02
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Bikemaster stuff has been pretty good in my experience.
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Mar 3, 2017 16:26
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I heard it at the 1:00 mark. It's definitely something hot that is cooling down, like your exhaust Cool, thanks!
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Mar 3, 2017 20:05
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Trying to track down an off-idle stumble in my bike. I feel like it's electrical in nature because I've noticed the turn signals and headlight wavering at low (idle) RPM, and the stumble is intermittent, not regular. Battery with the bike off, after sitting for 5 days: 12.70v Battery with the headlight and ignition on: 12.10-12.20v Voltage while cranking: ~10.5v with possible brief excursions to 9.5v Seems not too bad. The weird part: Voltage with the bike on, idle: 13.6v Voltage with the bike on, revved to 3000RPM: 13.0-13.2v Why is the voltage going DOWN as the engine speeds up? What part would be crapped out to cause that? The stator?
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Mar 4, 2017 20:45
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Sagebrush posted:
More sparks/injections per minute = higher electrical load. Once the R/R decides it's time to charge, it'll bring the stator in, it won't necessarily charge every time rpm is above a certain limit. Riding with a voltmeter connected is helpful to learn how your bike charges. But that doesn't explain your problem, if the charging circuit was broken in some way your battery would be flat after a bit of riding and stay flat. When the headlight starts pulsing at low speed, it most often is just an old battery.
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Mar 4, 2017 21:03
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lol no. Rectifier dumping more as your stator rotor is spun faster generating more voltage. Measure the 3 phases on your stator and report back. its probably a rectifier issue. Stator generates around 15-20V at idle, and typically 45-60 above 4,000rpm depending on the bike, FWIW.
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Mar 4, 2017 21:05
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Well I just dropped the battery and cracked the case and now there's acid coming out so looks like I'm getting a new one of those regardless  Will check the stator when I get back though.
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Mar 4, 2017 21:07
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Sagebrush posted:Trying to track down an off-idle stumble in my bike. I feel like it's electrical in nature because I've noticed the turn signals and headlight wavering at low (idle) RPM, and the stumble is intermittent, not regular. Use the tool mentioned in the thread title + the testing flow-chart. Removing the fairings/ body panel is the part that takes the longest time. But, go through the entire flow chart even if you find one error, I had both a iffy stator and regulator. Supradog fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 4, 2017 |
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Mar 4, 2017 21:11
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Supradog posted:Use the tool mentioned in the thread title + the testing flow-chart. Removing the fairings/ body panel is the part that takes the longest time. But, go through the entire flow chart even if you find one error, I had both a iffy stator and regulator. Getting to the RR on a Hawk should be pretty easy
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Mar 4, 2017 21:57
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It's a Honda so the RR should be changed with the oil anyway
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Mar 4, 2017 22:23
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It's a Honda so the RR should be changed with the oil anyway Why would you say this and make me second-guess this CBR600 R/R I have on my SV. I suppose as long as it doesn't spontaneously catch on fire we're good.
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Mar 4, 2017 23:18
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I mean, if it works, by all means run it, but a Honda RR should not be an upgrade or even a lateral move for even the most Italian of bikes
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Mar 4, 2017 23:22
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Coydog posted:My skid plate bolts keep shearing off at the heads. Originally I thought it was from my tool tube, but it's still happening. Think some rubber washers would fix this? EX250 Type R posted:use stronger bolts and break poo poo else where I'm breaking a bolt every other week, so this is something that needs to be fixed. Shimmed the mount points with a washer, to remove side to side movement that probably caused it. Then put neoprene washers under each nut before screwing it in. Fingers crossed...
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Mar 4, 2017 23:46
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Sagebrush posted:Trying to track down an off-idle stumble in my bike. I feel like it's electrical in nature because I've noticed the turn signals and headlight wavering at low (idle) RPM, and the stumble is intermittent, not regular. I'm going to go against the grain here and say carb balancing plus pilot screw settings slightly off. cursedshitbox posted:lol no. Just wanna add to this that CSB is talking AC voltage here. FWIW all the 80's bikes I've had have punched out in the region of 6-8ACV per stator coil (the ones that had three coil wires). Jim Silly-Balls posted:I mean, if it works, by all means run it, but a Honda RR should not be an upgrade or even a lateral move for even the most Italian of bikes A honda RR often is an italian bike RR. Coydog posted:I'm breaking a bolt every other week, so this is something that needs to be fixed. Another tactic is to dremel out the holes a bit wider and use a spacer sleeve so the thread of the bolt isn't taking a pounding directly.
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Mar 5, 2017 00:25
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12.1-2 seems a little low. Dropping to 9.5 also seems low, but you broke the battery so are replacing it anyways - curious to see what's going on there.
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Mar 5, 2017 04:10
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Coydog posted:I'm breaking a bolt every other week Have you replaced them all at once? Maybe you're going in a loop, bad bolt breaks, weakens others before replacement, weakened bolt breaks...
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Mar 5, 2017 18:57
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After some thought, usually the left one goes first, or is just the only one that goes. On this side the shield mount sits about 2mm off of the bike mount point. Since the heads always pop off, I'm beginning to suspect the vibration of the engine was jackhammering this non flush part against the nut. For this reason, I hope by shimming the components snug with that washer will fix it. Although them breaking in a loop is also viable, and likely part of it. The left bolt breaks every other week, the right one soldiers on for quite a while on it's own. Slavvy posted:Another tactic is to dremel out the holes a bit wider and use a spacer sleeve so the thread of the bolt isn't taking a pounding directly. Good tactic. I'll remember that if this doesn't work.
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Mar 5, 2017 19:47
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What are the advantages of chain over belt drive and vice versa?
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Mar 7, 2017 06:39
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Chain is more direct (metal links) and is used to handle the highest horsepower applications. It's rare, but belts can snap, especially when the front wheel kicks up a rock into the belt's teeth and that gets fed into the rear pulley. But you don't have to adjust belts, because they have an automatic tensioner pulley. You have to oil and adjust chains as the metal "stretches" (the rollers wear down, creating more space in between the links). Shaft drive has a torque drive problem where, while accelerating, the bike has a mild tendency to want to lean over to the right or left (I forget which one it is). Same phenomenon as propeller-driven aircraft. It's not very pronounced, but you notice it if you're in the middle of a turn, leaned over, then twist the throttle. Shaft drive is the most maintenance-free of all, though.
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Mar 7, 2017 07:42
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A chain is also easier to install or swap because you don't have to remove the wheel to do it (you break and reassemble the chain instead).
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Mar 7, 2017 07:46
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I so wish my vstrom had a shaft drive. I hate maintaining chains. Aren't they super expensive though if something goes wrong?
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Mar 7, 2017 08:28
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I mean, if it works, by all means run it, but a Honda RR should not be an upgrade or even a lateral move for even the most Italian of bikes lol, ironically the CBR600 R/R was a drop-in replacement (and serious upgrade) to the original on late-90s Ducatis. Let that one sink in.
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Mar 7, 2017 08:34
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Slide Hammer posted:Chain is more direct (metal links) and is used to handle the highest horsepower applications. It's rare, but belts can snap, especially when the front wheel kicks up a rock into the belt's teeth and that gets fed into the rear pulley. But you don't have to adjust belts, because they have an automatic tensioner pulley. You have to oil and adjust chains as the metal "stretches" (the rollers wear down, creating more space in between the links). The lean will depend on the side of the bike the shaft is on. Guzzi get around it by having a reverser gear in there so the torque reaction of the inline crank is opposite that of the shaft, but transverse engines are out of luck. Doesn't shaft drive increase wear on the gearbox too?
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Mar 7, 2017 08:36
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What about chains makes them most suitable for high power applications?
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Mar 7, 2017 09:14
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They're stronger than belts and better at withstanding shocks, I believe. Like, if you get a rock stuck between your belt and the pulley you can snap it. If you get a rock stuck in your chain and sprocket you're more likely to either lock the wheel or shatter the rock.
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Mar 7, 2017 09:23
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Is rocks flying up there that common?? Never something I even considered happening.
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Mar 7, 2017 12:21
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Schroeder91 posted:Is rocks flying up there that common?? Never something I even considered happening. For what it's worth, Zero Motorcycles uses belt drives on all their motorcycles, but do offer a chain drive option on their supermoto/dual-sport model. A Zero rep told me they found that the belt drives don't handle off-road abuse like jumping and dirt/rocks nearly as well as a chain driven setup. Also, while a flying rock from the street would need some serious bad luck, I can see some super small pebbles and other junk in mud getting caught up in a belt drive if you hit a pretty deep/soft mud pit. Speaking of bad luck, I managed to roll over something yesterday and found these weird cuts in my tire. Do you all think it's time to replace the rear? I just want to make sure it doesn't explode and send me down the World's Worst Slip-n-Slide (TM) at 70mph. 
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Mar 7, 2017 14:59
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You also can easily change the gearing on a chain with different sprockets, not so much on a belt / shafty. Are the cuts deeper than the sipes? If not, you're definitely fine. Tire losing pressure? If not, you're probably fine. Modern tires have lots of Kevlar and metal in them as belts so it's probably no big deal.
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Mar 7, 2017 16:36
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:53 |
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Schroeder91 posted:I so wish my vstrom had a shaft drive. I hate maintaining chains. Aren't they super expensive though if something goes wrong? Unless you have a BMW the chances of something going wrong are about the same as your engine blowing up. So very very rare and usually not related to the design at all. Naturally if you got one it would blow up instantly.
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Mar 7, 2017 19:04
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