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As for chain = high horsepower, the Diavel uses a belt so I think that's a pretty weak reason. Maybe it's a very expensive belt, though.
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Mar 7, 2017 19:13
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It's not like it's impossible to make a strong drive belt, it's just a lot more expensive. Motorcycle drive belts on modern street bikes making 100+hp are a product of advanced polymer engineering. We've been able to make chains that could withstand that sort of power for like a hundred years.
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Mar 7, 2017 19:24
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What is that embedded in the sipe on the right, underneath the cut?
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Mar 7, 2017 19:27
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Jazzzzz posted:What is that embedded in the sipe on the right, underneath the cut? It's the weird hole thing that appears on your bog-standard Pilot Road 3 tire. I have no idea as to its purpose.  I'm phone posting, else I'd get you a photo of the stock tread.
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Mar 7, 2017 19:39
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According to michelin's marketingspeak they're like little reservoirs that can contain some water directed into them by the sipes so not all of it has to be directed outwards away from the contact patch.
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Mar 7, 2017 21:26
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If I ever get an electric bike, I'd not like one with a chain. The noise and oily splatter would be out of place. The Zero SR has a tiny belt, about as narrow as a fan belt, reinforced with carbon something or other and costs $70. Add the silence and smoothness and it is the only way to go, for that particular application at least.
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Mar 7, 2017 22:05
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Ola posted:If I ever get an electric bike, I'd not like one with a chain. The noise and oily splatter would be out of place. The Zero SR has a tiny belt, about as narrow as a fan belt, reinforced with carbon something or other and costs $70. Add the silence and smoothness and it is the only way to go, for that particular application at least. Unless you want to run it in the woods or the MX track?
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Mar 7, 2017 23:05
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builds character posted:Unless you want to run it in the woods or the MX track? The SR is a street bike, so my "for that application at least" caveat should place the blame on the stupid rider, not the snapped belt, in those particular scenarios.
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Mar 7, 2017 23:15
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Ola posted:The SR is a street bike, so my "for that application at least" caveat should place the blame on the stupid rider, not the snapped belt, in those particular scenarios. Gotcha. In that case, I agree. I just also know that they're making an MX bike and I think one of the best applications for electronic bikes in the future will be as woods bikes for a number of reasons including that it's already acceptable to to go riding for a few hours in the woods and then truck your bike back home. I don't know whether those bikes have chains or not though.
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Mar 8, 2017 00:34
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builds character posted:Gotcha. In that case, I agree. I just also know that they're making an MX bike and I think one of the best applications for electronic bikes in the future will be as woods bikes for a number of reasons including that it's already acceptable to to go riding for a few hours in the woods and then truck your bike back home. I don't know whether those bikes have chains or not though. The dual sport at least has a belt too. It's not much of a dual sport, 50/50 tires, bit more suspension travel. Questionable model range and no proper fast charging are Zeros main obstacles to success in my opinion.
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Mar 8, 2017 07:43
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I'll probably be wanting to change my fuel lines soon. Is there any problem with putting a longer than stock line between the tank and (carb-filling) fuel pump to enable me to move the tank far enough back to set it on the rear subframe, so I can do under-tank maintenance jobs without having to completely drain and disconnect it in future? Assuming I put a proper guard on it and coil it so it doesn't end up touching the engine or anything.
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Mar 9, 2017 08:00
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'll probably be wanting to change my fuel lines soon. Is there any problem with putting a longer than stock line between the tank and (carb-filling) fuel pump to enable me to move the tank far enough back to set it on the rear subframe, so I can do under-tank maintenance jobs without having to completely drain and disconnect it in future? Just get a quick-release fuel line instead?
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Mar 9, 2017 08:15
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I didn't know that was a thing! Looks very convenient.
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Mar 9, 2017 09:48
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Is moto oil for wet clutches a thing I need to be using? I don't have any problems with the Mobil1 10w-40 High Mileage I use in the rest of my fleet, but the buddy who bought my EX500 said he's getting smoother transmission action after changing to a moto specific oil.
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Mar 9, 2017 11:20
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As long as the oil has the correct additives for motorcycle uses (bottle will have a picture of a motorbike on it somewhere usually) it's fine. Yes though, cars and motorcycles have different oil requirements because of the bikes wet clutch.
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Mar 9, 2017 11:58
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Beach Bum posted:Is moto oil for wet clutches a thing I need to be using? I don't have any problems with the Mobil1 10w-40 High Mileage I use in the rest of my fleet, but the buddy who bought my EX500 said he's getting smoother transmission action after changing to a moto specific oil. Oil is a huge can of worms that people will go berserk over. As shimrod said, any motorcycle oil will be fine. You don't want the stuff with magical car additives because it screws up your clutch. All that said, on my G650X, I switched from dino to motul 300v and the clutch was smoother (as much as it can be, they're pretty clunky). It's expensive and green and smells different and includes esters made of tiny magical elves and it's entirely possible that despite my best efforts to the contrary the smoothness is entirely psychosomatic. It was certainly unnecessary, but I kept buying it anyway for the smoothness factor.
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Mar 9, 2017 14:02
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Shell RotellaT 5w-40 in aaaaallllll the bikes Except the 690, that one got swiss unicorn blood
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Mar 9, 2017 16:04
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When selecting an oil that isn't a motorcycle-specific oil, the thing you want to watch out for is a circle-shaped seal on the back of the carton, where all the information is. This is the API Service seal. The circle is divided into three parts: an upper section, a smaller circle in the middle, and a lower section. When you are selecting an oil for your motorcycle, you want the section on the bottom to be blank. Definitely avoid oil which has the words "ENERGY CONSERVING" in this bottom section.
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Mar 9, 2017 20:22
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Sagebrush posted:It's not like it's impossible to make a strong drive belt, it's just a lot more expensive. Motorcycle drive belts on modern street bikes making 100+hp are a product of advanced polymer engineering. We've been able to make chains that could withstand that sort of power for like a hundred years. If you add in the cost of the sprockets you're supposed to replace at the same time as a chain, belts start to look considerably cheaper.
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Mar 9, 2017 23:56
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Jazzzzz posted:Shell RotellaT 5w-40 in aaaaallllll the bikes Rotella in all the trucks, Rotella in all the bikes. Rotella in the two stroke transmissions even. Renaissance Robot posted:I didn't know that was a thing! Looks very convenient. https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/quick_disconnect_couplings/
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Mar 10, 2017 00:05
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clutchpuck posted:If you add in the cost of the sprockets you're supposed to replace at the same time as a chain, belts start to look considerably cheaper. How hard would it be to buy a banged up old chain drive bike and convert it to a belt-drive?
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Mar 10, 2017 00:07
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Probably pretty annoying. Think I saw an sv650 belt drive conversion once on svrider, and it looked like waay too much effort. It probably wouldn't be hard to find a wheel with a belt drive that fits, but converting at the counter shaft to accept a belt would be the annoying part (I'd imagine.)
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Mar 10, 2017 00:55
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Slide Hammer posted:Definitely avoid oil which has the words "ENERGY CONSERVING" in this bottom section.
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Mar 10, 2017 04:05
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its all nice on rice posted:Probably pretty annoying. Think I saw an sv650 belt drive conversion once on svrider, and it looked like waay too much effort. Depending on the suspension design, you may also have to partially disassemble the rear subframe to get the belt on. You can't break and reassemble it, remember.
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Mar 10, 2017 04:41
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There is no situation on this gay earth that makes ditching a chain in favour of a belt a worthwhile excercise. But the opposite can be beneficial in some cases.
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Mar 10, 2017 06:18
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Yeah, that's the main thing... Belts aren't as strong as chains, so they need to be wider to compensate.
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Mar 10, 2017 11:48
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Slavvy posted:There is no situation on this gay earth that makes ditching a chain in favour of a belt a worthwhile excercise. But the opposite can be beneficial in some cases.
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Mar 10, 2017 14:53
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Odette posted:How hard would it be to buy a banged up old chain drive bike and convert it to a belt-drive? Nearly impossible because belt drive pulleys are always wider than a chain, so you'll have clearance issues for sure on the front pulley with the engine case and sprocket cover, and potentially on the rear as well with the swing arm and tire. Only go belt->chain never the other way. Never the other way.
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Mar 10, 2017 15:27
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Have I hosed myself into buying a new fuel pump? I took this guy out of my gas tank the last time I failed to get it running and didn't store it properly because of course I wouldn't. It had a filter on the side that rotted off, you can see the plastic frame and some remnants in the picture. I've looked around bikebandit.com but I cant find just the filter, only the $340 fuel pump in its entirety. The bike itself is an 05 or 06 Kawasaki Ninja 650r. Can I replace this or maybe install another filter somewhere to compensate? I can't figure out how to post a picture so here is a link. http://imgur.com/6ozUXoK Chairon fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 19:19
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Odette posted:How hard would it be to buy a banged up old chain drive bike and convert it to a belt-drive? It's enough of a pain going from belt to chain, and a chain setup has a lot less room for any additional engineering (like belt width) that might be required. Chairon posted:Have I hosed myself into buying a new fuel pump? I took this guy out of my gas tank the last time I failed to get it running and didn't store it properly because of course I wouldn't. It had a filter on the side that rotted off, you can see the plastic frame and some remnants in the picture. I've looked around bikebandit.com but I cant find just the filter, only the $340 fuel pump in its entirety. The bike itself is an 05 or 06 Kawasaki Ninja 650r. Can I replace this or maybe install another filter somewhere to compensate? It looks like what rotted off was your strainer. It keeps big chunks out of the lines to the filter, which itself filters the finer particles. Go to your Kawi dealer and ask, they'll have a good answer for you. I refuse to believe you need a new pump because your strainer disintegrated; that's a "replace it with your filter" item. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Mar 10, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2017 20:29
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Could also probably just eBay another pump for cheap.
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Mar 10, 2017 21:47
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There are rebuild kits available for some pumps.
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Mar 10, 2017 23:32
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clutchpuck posted:It's enough of a pain going from belt to chain, and a chain setup has a lot less room for any additional engineering (like belt width) that might be required. Harley make you buy a whole new $90 fuel line if the o-ring in the quick-disconnect fucks out, which it always does because they decided not to use a viton seal.
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Mar 11, 2017 00:44
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I've been using Rotella T triple protection 15W-40 oil and it's been good but today when I went to buy some at Walmart they didn't have it, and it looked like all the Rotella bottles are different. I picked up Rotella T4 15W-40 and was comparing it to the old oil I have. The Rotella T says API SERVICE CJ-4/SM in the top half of the circle. The T4 says API SERVICE CK-4 in the top half. Is the T4 good to use? I don't know poo poo about oil.
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Mar 11, 2017 01:52
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I took my klr 650 on the freeway for the first time and it seemed to really want to follow the parallel lines in the concrete. Those lines arent kind of wavy so it induces a minor wobble into the bike which wasnt very confidence inspiring. I loosened my grip and body and took some weight off the pegs and that seemed to fight off most of the wobble but it was still there. I already had it checked beforehand and the frame is straight and the wheels are balanced. Its on 50/50 dual purpose tires and im wondering if switching to straight up street tires would help. I'm using the bike to commute so i have no use for dirt tires right now. The other thing I ran into was heavy handlebar vibration at 65+ mph. My hands were numb after 30 minutes, my butt and feet were fine. Are there any good recommended accessories to combat the vibration? Im already on medium thickness gloves with decent palm padding. My last bike was a 600 crotch rocket and im a little alarmed at how not smooth everything is on the KLR on freeway. Its to be expected since they are built for completely different uses, but wow. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 06:29
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I'm not sure how deep the lines you're taking about are but they're generally referred to as "edge traps" and include parallel train tracks, rises in pavement due to fresh asphalt and long divots from road damage. Keep your eyes up and try to cross them as perpendicularly as possible if that make sense. Goose it if you feel your front wheel losing it. Don't ride on them until you stop giving a gently caress and try to see how long you can teeter without losing it like I do now
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Mar 11, 2017 06:42
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Name the tires. release your deathgrip and all will be fine. Its a klr650. its essentially a plated international tractor.. Don't expect it to be a lamborghini tractor. Go stick a 625/640 lc4 between your legs if you want to go to the vibeside.
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Mar 11, 2017 07:30
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the lines Im talking about are apparently from roadway tining. They are supposed to be parallel to the road, but they did a lovely job where i live and they are pretty wavy and way too aggressive. I can even feel them make my car drift a tiny bit. The tires are mefo sport explorer's https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/mefo-explorer-dual-sport-tires Loosening my grp helped with numbess but I cant really loosen any more without taking my hands off completely. Do those foam grip wraps work at all? I understand that the klr is behaving normally and every klr experiences huge vibrations at higher speeds. I have no expectations of turning it into a freeway tourer, I just want to make it more comfortable for my current needs
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Mar 11, 2017 08:05
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I'm surprised to hear the mefos do that. I was expecting much knobbier treads. a knobby will track like gently caress in grooved pavement. ways to cut down vibes. take bicycle innertube, tie off one end and stuff it into your bar ends. fill the tube with sand, seal off the other end and bolt your bark buster/bar cap on. E: I use these. https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/pro-grip-714-dual-sport-grips
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Mar 11, 2017 08:11
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The sand makes sense, weight would probably lessen the amplitude of the vibration. I'm on stock grips with no cushion, how thick or soft are those linked? The bike following the lines is fine most of the time, there are just few stretches on the comutte that are a little worrying
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Mar 11, 2017 08:32
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