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I'm not completely sure, but I don't think any of the weight reduction stuff is legal in STR. But honestly, if you want to win STR go buy an S2000.
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Mar 27, 2017 22:53
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TrueChaos posted:I'm not completely sure, but I don't think any of the weight reduction stuff is legal in STR. But honestly, if you want to win STR go buy an S2000. Not much about my car is legal for STR to be honest  . As soon as i cut my floors to put in the underfloor bracing (to make the car comfortable on the highway) i think i should be put with the windshieldless CSP cars. A 1.8 car with a torsen is also not legal, and the NB Steering wheel i installed.But Motherfuck aspie autocross classing rules, my car is STR because it makes sense to me. (and judging by placing nearly last in class, i dont feel too bad about the cheating). Ill worry about legality when i get enough seat time for people to start complaining Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 23:44
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Why are you obsessed with frame braces?
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Mar 28, 2017 00:32
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TurboDrizzle posted:Not much about my car is legal for STR to be honest
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Mar 28, 2017 00:42
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destructo posted:I think you mean DP, not CSP. Underfloor bracing is a complete and utter waste of time. I'm not really sure what you're trying to accomplish but if you want to stiffen the chassis, buy door bars. It won't make you any faster but it'll save you a bunch of time not destroying your car. Phone posted:Why are you obsessed with frame braces? It makes the car much better as a freeway cruiser, which is what the car did for over half a decade. This race car idea is really only a month or two old, so the parts i bought do not make any kind of sense. (Thats why im coming to the pro goons in the miata thread) Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 01:04
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How about buying a beater LS400 or something? I mean, I know it won't compare to blowing hundreds of dollars on hundreds of pounds of metal that you're going to Also, the solution to having a comfortable Miata is to buy good shocks. Or having a second car that's a couch on wheels.
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Mar 28, 2017 01:06
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If that's the goal, buy door bars from HD and shim your door bushings.
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Mar 28, 2017 01:10
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It WAS my goal but isnt any longer: Miata was only car for years and years, now it isnt. Your advice that "A miata on coilovers isnt the best daily" is noted. I've got a 2015 Honda fit now so the miata is freed for full time autocross duty. As is your other advice, the rear sway bar is going in the trash. As for my 245/45/15 dream that everyone says is impossible, a challenger has appeared: I have seen this guys car at "Miatas at the gap" this past summer and while i didnt check the exact specs, he does have tires i'd call "loving wide" on stock fenders. I have no problem going with 205/50 or 225, but i thought that extra meat was worth looking into. Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 01:16
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You're running the BP05; running 15x10s with 245s is a waste of time. You're chasing after the dumbest edge case garbage. There are whole seconds on the table and you're looking at stuff that is worth tenths at best. If you want, I can continue yelling at you. Otherwise, this is firmly in your aunt asking you for a computer/laptop recommendation territory. Go buy the entire Flyin Miata catalogue, go nuts. Go for a high score and try to incorporate as many Goodwin bits as you can. Challenge mode: Rev9. Phone fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 01:19
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Phone posted:If you want, I can continue yelling at you. Otherwise, this is firmly in your aunt asking you for a computer/laptop recommendation territory. Go buy the entire Flyin Miata catalogue, go nuts. Go for a high score and try to incorporate as many Goodwin bits as you can. Challenge mode: Rev9. Im right there with you mate. Once again: I am under no impression that my mods are good or make the car faster or better at autocross i have for years bought dumb poo poo for this car thats why i posted in this thread in the first place. I felt i needed tire advice because while im happy with my lines, i spent the whole time off the throttle becuase as soon as i got on the gas the car spun out of control. Phone posted:Coast city. If your advice is "Dont spend money you just suck at driving" thats also fine, i'll just keep attending events and placing last. Phone posted:You turned down free advice for a free mod once before. "Disconnect and/or remove the rear sway bar"? I said you were right and that i would do that. Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 01:28
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You turned down free advice for a free mod once before. E: yeah, but people in the flesh who have a vested interest in having you be viable competition told you that before some random internet rear end in a top hat. I'll type up something longer when I get back from the bakery. Phone fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 01:33
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my ND is extremely comfy but my other car is a motorcycle so i pretty much treat the miata like a goldwing
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Mar 28, 2017 01:44
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Neither compound being offered in 245 is a competitive autocross tire. Running 275 Hoosiers and playing with any decently prepped CSP field will mean you'll still be sitting at the back with a lighter wallet. If you actually want to be competitive with your list of mods for cheap, go remove all the poo poo that isn't compliant and go play in E-Street. You'll be down at least 10-15hp from the 99 Sports, but it's the least bad option you have at this point.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:00
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Say I wanted to do something stupid and take my completely stock NB (except for stereo and speakers) and go racing. Would I just need a cage and helmet? No cage possible? Obviously not thinking wheel-to-wheel or drag racing.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:40
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For track days I believe you will need a roll bar like a hard dog, but otherwise I would just upgrade brake pads, fluid, tires and just make sure everything is well maintained and you have fresh fluids. Autocross you don't really need to do anything to prep, people bring automatic Mazda 3's and rental cars, so a stock miata even in bad shape will be better than that. I did autocross in my bone stock '97 NA that was completely made of rust - 212k miles and a salvage title. I just slapped some direzza star specs and nothing else and won my class. I even matched or bested the times of several other miatas with wide slick tires and hosed up fenders. It's all about practice and skill, everyone wasting their money on chassis bracing, tires way too wide for the power of the car/etc should just spend more time behind the wheel way before blowing cash on auto-x mods. I think I'm done with autocross for now though, I did it a bunch and I never got very much seat time, just mostly old guys talking for hours, so I hope to do a track day this year.
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Mar 28, 2017 04:05
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Voltage posted:For track days I believe you will need a roll bar like a hard dog, but otherwise I would just upgrade brake pads, fluid, tires and just make sure everything is well maintained and you have fresh fluids. I would check with your local track but my friend did everything listed above to his '99 and took it to the track without issue. Voltage posted:I did autocross in my bone stock '97 NA that was completely made of rust - 212k miles and a salvage title. I just slapped some direzza star specs and nothing else and won my class. I even matched or bested the times of several other miatas with wide slick tires and hosed up fenders. It's all about practice and skill, everyone wasting their money on chassis bracing, tires way too wide for the power of the car/etc should just spend more time behind the wheel way before blowing cash on auto-x mods. From my understanding, autocross is the easiest way to get into racing since you more or less just need a car that runs but you also get the least amount of seat time for your money.
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Mar 28, 2017 04:24
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Speaking of frame braces, are they still useless if you are a giant mouth-breathing idiot and damaged your car with a jack? Asking for a friend. I'd also appreciate any tips on getting baked-on plastic off the exhaust. That really was the previous owner.
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Mar 28, 2017 08:10
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Alright, I lied. I went to the bakery and found out that it was closed, so I took out the recycling and decided to zone out listening to podcasts. You sound like you have an incredibly itchy internet shopping finger, which is fine; however, you're really wanting to spend money on some really dumb stuff. The problem arises when you start off with "I know that I don't know poo poo" and then attempt to justify whatever shiny mod caught your eye with "well I thought it'd be a good idea". It isn't to knock you down a peg or anything, quite the opposite. I have no problems regurgitating years of go-fast Miata advice because it's both Fun and Good. That said, I do have problems with advice being met with "well I thought"; like... cool story bro, I think of lots of things, too. Do you know where blindly spending money or trying to shortcut things gets you? Spending $1000 on a suspension because the $2000 suspension can't be that good... only to buy the $2000 suspension a year down the line. Spending $3000 on a $2000 suspension is kind of dumb. What else is dumb is wasting a shitload of time. You have a bug up your rear end about getting 245s as if they're some magical bullet that's going to be dramatically and significantly different... and I could use those words to describe what going to 245s is going to do for you, but we're probably not on the same page so the definitions probably don't line up. I'm going to start with the assumption that you want to do this correctly. This is what doing it correctly looks like: http://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/rover-turbo-how-build-reliable-turbo-track-car-spm-s1-nasa-st3-4-a-92020/page2/#post1398969 To continue on with the assumption that you're going to do this correctly, let's check out the price list: - 15x10 6ULs: $200 per, $800 total - Carbon Miata flares, $600 - 245s of your choosing, $150ish each, $600 total $2000 to put 245s on your NA. Beautiful looking 15x10s with tires that are significantly wider than the bicycle tire sized 185s that came on the car 20 years ago. And now you have a rolling resistance and aero penalty. Oh, let's add the under chassis bracing because you're doing highway driving on your new 245s, $429. So you're well over $2400 at this point.... for what? Naturally aspirated people with VVT swaps making 30whp+ more than you are probably going to stick with 225s because it is possible to have too much of a good thing. So you want to go autocrossing and you want to go faster? Disconnecting the rear sway bar: free. A set of 205/50R15 RE-71Rs to be mounted on the 15x8s that you already own: $116 a pop ($464 total). I just saved you $2000. You know what $2000 buys you? An MS3 is about a grand, toss in a set of spare wheels and you're up to ~$1800ish. A set of Xidas is $2000 or so, more if you opt for all of the upgrades (you only really need the helper springs). A junkyard VVT longblock runs anywhere from $600 to $1000, this one becomes a bit of a rabbit hole because a full swap winds up costing around $3k or so if you do everything properly. However, point being: all of this poo poo will pay dividends compared to putting 245s on your BP05 horse and cart. This is also flying in the face of the fact that the most effective way to become competitive is to just do as many events as you can and work on your skills as a driver. An Evo school is a $200 or $300 (can't remember) weekend where you will find a significant amount of time out there. Even if you were climbing up through your local club's ranks and you were looking for tenths, Evo school is still an incredibly value for your money. Also, get this... you get to spend a weekend inside your car driving it versus outside of it with a sawzall and 3lb sledgehammer.
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Mar 28, 2017 08:23
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Cat Hatter posted:Speaking of frame braces, are they still useless if you are a giant mouth-breathing idiot and damaged your car with a jack? Asking for a friend. What up "that looks strong enough" buddy  
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Mar 28, 2017 12:18
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It been years since I looked at any class rules, but if it's legal for any class you want to race in I found stiffer motor mounts and bushings to make highway driving surprisingly more comfortable. I thought they'd be very edge case for cutting tenths out of lap times, but they made the whole thing feel better. (The old ones also were 20 years old so maybe replacing them with OEM replacements would be just as good) You can get a complete set for like 300 dollars plus another 100 for an alignment and it gives you an excuse to spend hours and hours working on your car. I think people might have overlooked the obvious of how old are your tires? After a couple years you've lost a good amount of traction just from aging.
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Mar 28, 2017 12:24
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Cat Hatter posted:Speaking of frame braces, are they still useless if you are a giant mouth-breathing idiot and damaged your car with a jack? Asking for a friend. Ouch. This is why i put an old hockey puck on my jacks. Never go metal to metal if you can avoid it.
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Mar 28, 2017 13:09
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Phone posted:Alright, I lied. I went to the bakery and found out that it was closed, so I took out the recycling and decided to zone out listening to podcasts. Thanks for the effortpost Phone, I'm unsarcastically glad that i had to switch to another account and you're no longer the only member of my ignore list I was never going to go so far as fender flares, but you've identified my "spend money to go faster" disease and i'll take your advice and dial that back. 205 width tires will be fine for now plus some seat time. 3-4 seconds on a sub-50 second course is just.... daunting.Cat Hatter posted:Speaking of frame braces, are they still useless if you are a giant mouth-breathing idiot and damaged your car with a jack? Asking for a friend.  nopenopenopenope. That's horrifying. I dont care how much of a waste frame rail braces were, the ability to jack up in the middle makes them worth their weight in stainless steel. Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 13:19
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craig588 posted:It been years since I looked at any class rules, but if it's legal for any class you want to race in I found stiffer motor mounts and bushings to make highway driving surprisingly more comfortable. I thought they'd be very edge case for cutting tenths out of lap times, but they made the whole thing feel better. (The old ones also were 20 years old so maybe replacing them with OEM replacements would be just as good) You can get a complete set for like 300 dollars plus another 100 for an alignment and it gives you an excuse to spend hours and hours working on your car. This is going to be the first thing I do to the NA I'm picking up - Any good place to buy a full set up rubber bushings? Or are poly good enough?
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Mar 28, 2017 18:33
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Phone posted:I'm going to start with the assumption that you want to do this correctly. This is what doing it correctly looks like: http://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/rover-turbo-how-build-reliable-turbo-track-car-spm-s1-nasa-st3-4-a-92020/page2/#post1398969
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Mar 28, 2017 21:23
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Voltage posted:This is going to be the first thing I do to the NA I'm picking up - It's been over 3, maybe even 4 years since I've raced, but I think I used this kit http://949racing.com/energy-suspension-bushings-miata.aspx and bought the competition engine mounts from Mazda because they had some sort of sale going on if you confirmed you were actually using parts for racing they ended up being much cheaper than any of the Miata shops. Depending on how track focused you want to get there also are these http://949racing.com/Supermiata-motor-mount.aspx
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Mar 28, 2017 21:39
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BlackMK4 posted:I had somehow not realized that a turbo car on the track was as big of a deal as it is with respect to losing turbos off manifolds, CHRA coming apart, and that kind of poo poo. Making stuff reliable on track for 20-30 minutes is hard.
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Mar 28, 2017 21:47
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I am also aware of this 
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Mar 28, 2017 22:47
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Voltage posted:This is going to be the first thing I do to the NA I'm picking up - Poly is a pain in the rear end. Go rubber or go delrin; searching on SADFab+delrin+miataturbo should get you close enough. Mk4Timbo re:turbos: In a hilarious chance of fate situation, a bunch of people, on Miata turbo, went naturally aspirated when Megasquirts were becoming commonplace and people figured out that the 01-05 motor wasn't a complete piece of poo poo. I feel a lot of it was born out of frustration with dealing with a turbo car just completely falling apart at the seams. I know a big development was getting cheap access to inconel studs, but it still winds up being a game of chasing the next failure point. Instead of worrying about all of your hot stuff tearing itself apart or going after heat management, you get real nervous about exploding transmissions on the regular. That said, I've been really itching to try out the EFR kit on a really dumb street car for a year now because turbo Miatas are a hoot in short bursts. Phone fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 28, 2017 22:50
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I really want to turbo mine since it's gonna be a total project car/not DD, and if I blow it up, either 1UZFE V8 or K24 swap. I don't see much point in swapping in an NB motor - seems like power gains would be minimal.
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Mar 29, 2017 02:36
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The Lego are the same, so everything just kind of bolts up. Junkyard VVT + I/H/E (assumption is aftermarket ECU) is a reliable way to make meaningful power gains for not a whole lot of money. Even if you go the boost route, being able to control the intake cam leads to some Good Times.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:27
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Funny you should mention that, ive been offered a free blown 99-00 motor on a "get it out of my yard whatever" deal. Hard to beat that price. Gonna keep the cylinder head and scrap the rest (mostly because i don't have room for it) Really gotta use some of this newfound fiscal self control and not turn this into an engine build. Legos..... just like legos...
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Mar 29, 2017 12:43
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I guess if you can get it cheap enough, why not, easy power. I just acquired a massive garage (thread incoming soon), so I'll have more than enough room to do a bunch of work, and hopefully get a lift installed, so I'm dreaming big now. I've just seen a ton of 1UZ miata swaps, so it is definitely possible if I have the right tools. End goal is something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EsO83qRYEk The sound is my main motivation.
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Mar 29, 2017 14:24
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TurboDrizzle posted:Funny you should mention that, ive been offered a free blown 99-00 motor on a "get it out of my yard whatever" deal. Hard to beat that price. Christ. I'm going to sell my 2000 1.8 with an M45 on it. I was hoping to get at least some money for it. I guess I'll have to trade it for a broken bicycle and some used underwear.
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Mar 30, 2017 03:05
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Phone posted:Mk4Timbo re:turbos: I know I've sort of skirted around this question in a couple of previous replies to you but does the MS3 really make that much of a difference on a VVT motor? Or is there something else in conjunction that unlocks the magic?
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Mar 30, 2017 05:03
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Being able to control the intake cam phasing does some magic... like finding 10 ft-lbs of torque everywhere for spending 5 minutes with a 2D table. The graph in this post is for a BP05 car, but Savington does make mention of what a VVT motor can do. https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=7520420&postcount=43 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Savington/stockmiataAEM.jpg
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Mar 30, 2017 05:18
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^^^ Those are some pretty significant gains on the VVT, drat. Today has been a good day for MX5 parts  Ordered OZ Ultraleggera 15x7 wheels with Federal 595 RS-R 205/50-15, as well as new Ferodo DS2500 pads.
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Mar 30, 2017 13:31
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Saw an RF in the wild. Dang it looked nice.
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Mar 30, 2017 14:31
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Phone posted:Being able to control the intake cam phasing does some magic... like finding 10 ft-lbs of torque everywhere for spending 5 minutes with a 2D table. The graph in this post is for a BP05 car, but Savington does make mention of what a VVT motor can do. https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=7520420&postcount=43 So, just don't let it go below 4500rpm, check. 
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Mar 30, 2017 14:40
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You're still missing out on 10 ft-lbs across the entire range.
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Mar 30, 2017 14:57
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I'm kinda joking, but in all seriousness, I would make the argument that for pure track use variable valve timing of any sort is wasted effort. Spending 5 minutes looking at Miata VVT tables, I'm seeing most going to a fixed value over about 4500-5k RPM at WOT - there's nothing that telling VVT to go to a given advance will do compared to having the cam just degreed there. But I think in terms of pure track use so grains of salt and all that.
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Mar 30, 2017 15:32
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