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Effective-Disorder
Nov 13, 2013

WrenP-Complete posted:

I'm concerned you may be right...

Too late, it's already taken over here.



Welp, I guess we're going to evolve into a species of internet-using amphibians who seldom leave their bathtubs.

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Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

ledge
Jun 10, 2003


:vince:

bEatmstrJ
Jun 30, 2004

Look upon my bathroom joists, ye females, and despair.

Thats just straight dedication right there.

Fuckface the Hedgehog
Jun 12, 2007


No Structural Integrity was harmed in the making of this gif.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


bEatmstrJ posted:

Don't worry, I'm definitely getting an engineer. At this point my speculation into how it could be fixed is only for my own amusement and trying to guess at what will really be recommended based on my limited understanding of structural engineering.

I talked to one local engineer who basically said, without looking at it, that new shorter joists would be needed to be run the full length. He wants $500 to come over and do plans, but since he already told me what he's going to do I want to talk to some other people who might have different approaches. I suspect there is more than one way to engineer out of this. I talked to another engineer in Florida for a while and sent him many pictures and he was pretty certain he could engineer a solution that wouldn't require replacement, but once he found out I was in CA he said it wouldn't matter cause his plans wouldn't be accepted in my state, which I personally think is silly since engineering doesn't change from state to state (even though code does).

I figure my worst case scenario is new beams get installed and I'm back with no sunken tub. My 2nd worst case scenario is shorter beams get installed and I get my sunken tub but its a very invasive process. The best possibility is someone retrofits my existing beams to work in place.

I'm going to try to pick the brains of the project managers that come over and see what I can learn from them and hopefully get some additional leads on engineers, cause they aren't terribly easy to find, or at least I don't know how to find them around here.

Engineering licenses are state by state, and while many have reciprocity, California is extra special thanks to earthquakes.

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

mon dieu!


Evilreaver posted:

Man, I missed KS's allegedly sweet avatar :saddowns: did anyone 'archive it before the evidence was erased'?

Sorry i dont usually get so irked i actually spend money on dumbassitude so i forgot to take a picture

*Historical recreation based on a true story*


If you do something i feel is unsafe I will report you to the authorities, Its not creepy because I AM THE LAW.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005


10/10 :perfect:

Negative Entropy
Nov 30, 2009

bEatmstrJ
I'm going to ask the obvious question here: Can your renovation lose the bathtub and you still be happy?

xwing
Jul 2, 2007
red leader standing by

brugroffil posted:

Engineering licenses are state by state, and while many have reciprocity, California is extra special thanks to earthquakes.

This. California and Florida that I know of have stricter reciprocity rules. CA has special earthquake exams and Florida has hurricane requirements. I've heard Hawaii just adopted Miami-Dade and Florida's product approval guidelines and doesn't know what is going on. My understanding also is that Los Angeles has it's own special snowflake requirement above and beyond the CA ones.

My advice... get off Yelp and Craigslist. Find your local Builders Association. You can likely call them up and get a list of contractors that you'll be way more satisfied with. If a contractor doesn't care about pissing others off they won't be a part of an association. Chances are if they can't be bothered with you they're probably annoying their subs which doesn't go well if you're in an association together to promote local construction.

And yes, there's going to be more than one way to engineer out of this problem.

Beet Wagon
Oct 19, 2015





WrenP-Complete posted:

And this moss wall!


This is one of those things that I look at and go "Holy poo poo that's dope I'm doing that in my bathroom" but then I remember that I live in a normal middle-class home on a cul-de-sac and not a Tom Cruise science fiction movie and if I made one of my walls out of moss I would never be able to make the rest of my house look future-ey enough to match it.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


xwing posted:

This. California and Florida that I know of have stricter reciprocity rules. CA has special earthquake exams and Florida has hurricane requirements. I've heard Hawaii just adopted Miami-Dade and Florida's product approval guidelines and doesn't know what is going on. My understanding also is that Los Angeles has it's own special snowflake requirement above and beyond the CA ones.

My advice... get off Yelp and Craigslist. Find your local Builders Association. You can likely call them up and get a list of contractors that you'll be way more satisfied with. If a contractor doesn't care about pissing others off they won't be a part of an association. Chances are if they can't be bothered with you they're probably annoying their subs which doesn't go well if you're in an association together to promote local construction.

And yes, there's going to be more than one way to engineer out of this problem.

You can try Angie's List too since it's free now.

Dirt Road Junglist
Oct 8, 2010

We will be cruel
And through our cruelty
They will know who we are
I wouldn't bother writing the beam manufacturers. They won't want to take on the liability of telling you to do something that might go wrong. You'll either get ghosted or get some boilerplate about them not being to help without a contract or some other CYA poo poo.

Burt Sexual
Jan 26, 2006

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Switchblade Switcharoo

brugroffil posted:

You can try Angie's List too since it's free now.

I didn't know that! What's the biz model now? Ads?

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Burt Sexual posted:

I didn't know that! What's the biz model now? Ads?

Free basic membership, premium upgrades for warranties or something. They were hemorrhaging their userbase over the past few years and brought in a new guy to try out something different.

Neutrino
Mar 8, 2006

Fallen Rib

Burt Sexual posted:

That's actually not a bad idea, but they'll say tear our the floor. 😟

It's better to tear out the floor, you will just have to remove the wall you put in and the sink but you will have to put in new floor joists next to the ones you hosed up. There is no point in trying to hack a half-assed solution at this point. The biggest problem is not that maybe it will fail but if your insurance gets wind of this they will drop you like a bathtub falling through a compromised floor.

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012


Better than anyone knew to hope for.


Beet Wagon posted:

This is one of those things that I look at and go "Holy poo poo that's dope I'm doing that in my bathroom" but then I remember that I live in a normal middle-class home on a cul-de-sac and not a Tom Cruise science fiction movie and if I made one of my walls out of moss I would never be able to make the rest of my house look future-ey enough to match it.

I don't know, I think they probably can be in different styles. I believe in you.


Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Effective-Disorder posted:

I just reread and rethought on this. This most likely will not solve your problem for the same reasons the scarf joint sister project won't. With all of the parts in between, there is no way to be sure of it without knowing anything about how these parts are intended to interact. Like I said, they did the math, knowing all that they know, when they published that technical bulletin, and as follows, they can only account for the cases outlined there.

Also bathtub, incase you forgot. Bathtub right on top of the pivot point for the whole mess. Not good.

I apologize if I led you to some kind of hopeful idea about things by showing you that document, but my point was that your situation is way out of the scope considered there, and you'll definitely need someone who knows what they're doing to figure out a solution. And, even though your stalker was a total nutcase about it, he did have a point about inspections and permits. Those parts come with a stamp on them because someone did all the leg work on calculations for you. If you change those parts, that stamp doesn't mean gently caress all for insurance, permitting, etc. You could be setting yourself up for a serious financial issue down the road.

Ok sure thing Poindexter. Add glue to the screws and I'd bet a structural engineer other than Groverwould sign off on it no worries. Or you can bolt steel in the same way.



Ahaha. Thread delivers once again.:tipshat:

Effective-Disorder
Nov 13, 2013

Mr. Mambold posted:

Ok sure thing Poindexter. Add glue to the screws and I'd bet a structural engineer other than Groverwould sign off on it no worries. Or you can bolt steel in the same way.

I'm sure there's probably a solution that involves that. There are likely to be a lot of solutions, I wasn't throwing shade at you. All I'm saying is you can't take anything for granted with these hosed up joists, and a structural engineer is needed anyway.

I heart bacon
Nov 18, 2007

:burger: It's burgin' time! :burger:



:five:

brugroffil posted:

Engineering licenses are state by state, and while many have reciprocity, California is extra special thanks to earthquakes being California.

Original bathroom was already pretty awesome, aside from the tile.

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?
Howdy!

I lurk a lot over here in DIY, and was super curious about your predicament.

Before we get started, I am a mechanical and electrical (not civil/structural/architectural) engineer, and I do not have a PE license. Therefore:

:siren: DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE VERY BASIC AND GENERALIZED ENGINEERING CALCULATIONS AND PROBABLY WRONG SOLUTIONS TO MAKE ANY SORT OF DECISION ON YOUR GROVERBATH :siren:

Anywho. Exactly how badly did you gently caress up?

Engineered I-beams are made using dimensional lumber as the flange sections, with some thin particle board as webbing. These individual components suck at compressive loading in the directions they're sitting in, but they have been engineered in a very important cross-sectional configuration so that the sum of the parts come out much better for use as joists.

Your funny picture shows the name "TJI 230" as your floor joist. Here's its cross-sectional dimensions:



Let's go for broke and assume a 16" OAH.

I had to google the density conversion for like, normal softwood density, because engineers are very bad at basic math:



Using this cool I-beam cross-section calculator because engineers are very bad at basic math:



Okay so there's your normal cross-sectional wondercalcs. With these random numbers you can calculate a bunch of stuff like how many Clevelands you can fit in the bathtub on top of them.

With cutting off the top dimensional lumber piece to plop in your awesome black mold infinity tub flush with the floor despite every picture I see of them having a raised floor, you have effectively made all 14' of your engineered I beam an inverted engineered T beam. Generally speaking, the remaining top flange is now useless for compressive loads (see infinity tub).

Here's that good poo poo:



Note you reduced your second moment of area to 40% of its original value ahahahaha

With a 1000 lbf load on one beam in the center, before cutting:



After cutting:



So you doubled your deflection, and increased the stress on each beam by about 2.3x. This "hosed factor" scales for whatever load you want to put on it! Honestly I thought it'd be much worse. At any rate, hopefully the safety factor on those beams is was more than 2!

Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Apr 7, 2017

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches
oof engineering calculations please :frogon:

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012

I'm a therapist and researcher/data scientist, I took physics in college but don't remember it. Can someone please explain what second moment means? And sheer vs compression sounds familiar but I also don't remember that part. Equations are fine! I figure if I don't know, other people don't either, that's why I'm asking itt rather than googling.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

I don't think I've ever seen engineering icing on a dogpile before.

Neutrino
Mar 8, 2006

Fallen Rib

WrenP-Complete posted:

I'm a therapist and researcher/data scientist, I took physics in college but don't remember it. Can someone please explain what second moment means?

I graduated with a BSCE in Structural Engineering. The first moment is when you say "Oh poo poo! The second moment is when you break your spine.

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012

Neutrino posted:

I graduated with a BSCE in Structural Engineering. The first moment is when you say "Oh poo poo! The second moment is when you break your spine.

Great, I wrote that down. Thank you. :v:

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


WrenP-Complete posted:

I'm a therapist and researcher/data scientist, I took physics in college but don't remember it. Can someone please explain what second moment means? And sheer vs compression sounds familiar but I also don't remember that part. Equations are fine! I figure if I don't know, other people don't either, that's why I'm asking itt rather than googling.

This diagram using bones actually seems like a pretty good explanation



When you load a beam, it's going to deflect some amount. The top of the beam will be in compression while the bottom is in tension.

I forget what the more abstract definition of second moment is, but it's symbol is "I" and it's critical for lots of beam calculations. Higher means stiffer/more resistant to bending.

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?

WrenP-Complete posted:

I'm a therapist and researcher/data scientist, I took physics in college but don't remember it. Can someone please explain what second moment means? And sheer vs compression sounds familiar but I also don't remember that part. Equations are fine! I figure if I don't know, other people don't either, that's why I'm asking itt rather than googling.

Whoops my bad. So the whole "you should only orient cinderblocks in X way" comes from the fact that an objects deflection and stress from a given force is not only based on the amount of the object and the distance from where the object is fixed, but also its shape. "Second moment of area" or "area moment of inertia" and using the resulting value in a stress calculation is a great way of quantifying the susceptibility of a particular shape to resist forces in a particular direction. Once you calculate the second moment of area of a shape in a particular direction, you can compare the strength of that shape versus other shapes.

In the above post I punched numbers in to get the resistance to loads from a normal I beam and from his makeshift T beam. By eliminating the I beam (a super strong shape) and making it a T beam, he lowered those four beams' resistance to gravity loads to 40% of what they used to be.

Compression loads are loads due to pushing against something. Tension is pulling. When you put a load on some object you put stress on that object. Shear is a particular form of failure of that object due to the stress induced. I'm wrong on this shear is another form of loading per bone diagram.

Hope that clears some stuff up!

Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Apr 7, 2017

Snowy
Oct 6, 2010

A man whose blood
Is very snow-broth;
One who never feels
The wanton stings and
Motions of the sense



That's a pretty sweet masturbation diagram

bradzilla
Oct 15, 2004


:eyepop:

Adiabatic posted:

Howdy!

I lurk a lot over here in DIY, and was super curious about your predicament.

Before we get started, I am a mechanical and electrical (not civil/structural/architectural) engineer, and I do not have a PE license. Therefore:

:siren: DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE VERY BASIC AND GENERALIZED ENGINEERING CALCULATIONS AND PROBABLY WRONG SOLUTIONS TO MAKE ANY SORT OF DECISION ON YOUR GROVERBATH :siren:

Anywho. Exactly how badly did you gently caress up?

Engineered I-beams are made using dimensional lumber as the flange sections, with some thin particle board as webbing. These individual components suck at compressive loading in the directions they're sitting in, but they have been engineered in a very important cross-sectional configuration so that the sum of the parts come out much better for use as joists.

Your funny picture shows the name "TJI 230" as your floor joist. Here's its cross-sectional dimensions:



Let's go for broke and assume a 16" OAH.

I had to google the density conversion for like, normal softwood density, because engineers are very bad at basic math:



Using this cool I-beam cross-section calculator because engineers are very bad at basic math:



Okay so there's your normal cross-sectional wondercalcs. With these random numbers you can calculate a bunch of stuff like how many Clevelands you can fit in the bathtub on top of them.

With cutting off the top dimensional lumber piece to plop in your awesome black mold infinity tub flush with the floor despite every picture I see of them having a raised floor, you have effectively made all 14' of your engineered I beam an inverted engineered T beam. Generally speaking, the remaining top flange is now useless for compressive loads (see infinity tub).

Here's that good poo poo:



Note you reduced your second moment of area to 40% of its original value ahahahaha

With a 1000 lbf load on one beam in the center, before cutting:



After cutting:



So you doubled your deflection, and increased the stress on each beam by about 2.3x. This "hosed factor" scales for whatever load you want to put on it! Honestly I thought it'd be much worse. At any rate, hopefully the safety factor on those beams is was more than 2!

:eyepop::eyepop::eyepop:

Harold Fjord
Jan 3, 2004

Adiabatic posted:

Compression loads are loads due to pushing against something. Tension is pulling. When you put a load on some object you put stress on that object. Shear is a particular form of failure of that object due to the stress induced. I'm wrong on this shear is another form of loading per bone diagram.

I don't think you are wrong. The diagram merely shows the direction shearing forces would come from and how they relate to one another. Specifically, a slight offset that causes strain rather than rotation. You could theoretically shear at all kinds of angles, I believe.


Definition of noun:a strain in the structure of a substance produced by pressure, when its layers are laterally shifted in relation to each other.
Definition of verb:break off or cause to break off, owing to a structural strain.

Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Apr 7, 2017

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?

Nevvy Z posted:

I don't think you are wrong. The diagram merely shows the direction shearing forces would come from and how they relate to one another. Specifically, a slight offset that causes strain rather than rotation. You could theoretically shear at all kinds of angles, I believe.


Definition of noun:a strain in the structure of a substance produced by pressure, when its layers are laterally shifted in relation to each other.
Definition of verb:break off or cause to break off, owing to a structural strain.

I just looked it up and you're right, it's both apparently.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_stress

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shearing_%28physics%29

got any sevens
Feb 9, 2013

by Cyrano4747
The first warning sign should've been when he couldn't even remove the cabinet to give to the craigslist guy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIDL0R0mQfo

socketwrencher posted:

bEatmstrJ posted:

That being said, my last home had an extensive bathroom remodel without any permits and there were no issues when it was sold.


You might consider rethinking your takeaway from this anecdote.



Holy poo poo :grovertoot:

got any sevens fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Apr 7, 2017

Yawgmoth
Sep 10, 2003

This post is cursed!
I am learning so much from this thread! Most importantly, I have learned that if I ever own a home I should not touch a drat thing re: remodeling unless I talk to at least one coworker (most of my coworkers are architects/engineers).

JB50
Feb 13, 2008

Yawgmoth posted:

I am learning so much from this thread! Most importantly, I have learned that if I ever own a home I should not touch a drat thing re: remodeling unless I talk to at least one coworker (most of my coworkers are architects/engineers).

Or if youre going to do anything bigger than hanging a paper towel holder hire a professional.

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?
You can totally do it yourself, just be sure to research the poo poo out of your local codes. There's quick reference books online and they cost like $15 for each discipline. It's important to take a positive attitude with building code because you bet your rear end it's there for a very practical and important reason. I personally find it fun to figure out why, but that bit's not necessary as long as you follow them to the letter.

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

Adiabatic posted:

You can totally do it yourself, just be sure to research the poo poo out of your local codes. There's quick reference books online and they cost like $15 for each discipline. It's important to take a positive attitude with building code because you bet your rear end it's there for a very practical and important reason. I personally find it fun to figure out why, but that bit's not necessary as long as you follow them to the letter.

what the lurking mod says, just dont gently caress with electrical, or plumbing unless you have researched the poo poo out of what you are doing and maybe ask for help from a pro or at least one to bounce your grand vision off of.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Adiabatic posted:

Compression loads are loads due to pushing against something. Tension is pulling. When you put a load on some object you put stress on that object. Shear is a particular form of failure of that object due to the stress induced. I'm wrong on this shear is another form of loading per bone diagram.

Hope that clears some stuff up!

I'd like to add, when thinking about how any this beam is loaded, the upper part of the beam is in compression, and the lower part is in tension (in this case, load being in the same direction as gravity).

That's the point of I-beams whether steel or engineered wood, the upper and lower flanges are holding the forces involved. Maximum strength with minimal material.

e: for clarity you pedants. :p

angryrobots fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Apr 7, 2017

xwing
Jul 2, 2007
red leader standing by

angryrobots posted:

I'd like to add, when thinking about how any beam is loaded, the upper part of the beam is in compression, and the lower part is in tension (in this case, load being in the same direction as gravity).

Not always true... over a load bearing wall in the middle of a house a beam would be in in tension at the top. Your statement is true for the simplest uniform loading supported at two ends. A cantilever is another case it wouldn't have the loading you describe. That's why beams are usually symmetrical in the y-axis because it works the same in both directions.

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sandoz
Jan 29, 2009


brugroffil posted:


I forget what the more abstract definition of second moment is, but it's symbol is "I" and it's critical for lots of beam calculations. Higher means stiffer/more resistant to bending.

You can think of second moment of area as a measure of how far from the centroid (or any arbitrary axis I guess?) most of the area is. It's basically directly proportional to a given shape's resistance to bending along a certain axis, and it is the mathematical basis for why an I-beam is stronger than a solid bar of the same cross-sectional area.

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