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Applebees Appetizer posted:Looks good, how much you end up paying for it? Yeah I've used universal ones in the past, they work half decent for a few weeks before the nylon edge ribbing starts disintegrating in the sun and turning to powder. Hopefully I can find a good tint person in the area for relatively cheap. I'm wary of doing the trans, might have to schlep over to my mom's and do just a partial drain/fill initially before getting a full service w/ filter, just so the fresh detergents get introduced a bit more gradually.
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Apr 21, 2017 17:43
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Chat thread cross post:Enourmo posted:Oh lol Unless they're all delivered white and the department sprays em?
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Apr 25, 2017 17:22
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You can tell just by the condition of the interior. If it's nice it was a detective car, if it's worn it was a cruiser. Does it have real back seats or plastic? That's a tell tale sign too. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 17:36
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Interior is stained but not particularly worn down. Real backseats; I was under the impression they would swap the real seats back in when they auctioned the car off. No signs of a removed barricade between front and rear, either. I'm noticing the car doesn't seem to get as hot in the sun as the Mazda did; maybe just a lower ratio of exterior glass to cabin volume and/or exposed dash area. Either way, my window shades are out for delivery, so step 1 of heat rejection is almost complete. Also did my first full tank, got about 19 mpg on ethanol-free gas. Incidentally, I can finally use ethanol-free (read: non-93-octane) gas; bye-bye turbo babying.
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Apr 25, 2017 20:25
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Enourmo posted:Interior is stained but not particularly worn down. Real backseats; I was under the impression they would swap the real seats back in when they auctioned the car off. No signs of a removed barricade between front and rear, either. Standard rear seat on P71s is black vinyl. Matching fabric was optional. Here's another tell: do the rear doors open from the inside, and is there a lock knob? Do the power windows work from the rear door switches? I had to go get door actuator and lock rods from another Panther, and plug the window switch harness connector back in.
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Apr 25, 2017 21:44
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Does it have bucket seats or split bench? If it's split bench definitely not a cruiser.
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Apr 26, 2017 00:11
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So my '88 Town Car has AM radio, and tape, but not FM radio (it just seeks forever and plays static). Does anyone know which of the two antennas is the one that works for FM? The power stick antenna deploys itself when I turn the car on, and retracts when I turn the car off, but doesn't respond to the "ANTENNA" toggle switch on the dashboard (is it supposed to?) I have no idea what the boomerang antenna on the trunk is supposed to be for. Haynes manual doesn't have a wiring diagram for my year.
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Apr 26, 2017 00:17
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Does it have bucket seats or split bench? If it's split bench definitely not a cruiser. Darchangel posted:Standard rear seat on P71s is black vinyl. Matching fabric was optional. Here's another tell: do the rear doors open from the inside, and is there a lock knob? Do the power windows work from the rear door switches? Cloth seats all around, split bench front, rear inner door handles work, only the standard child lock, rear windows work from rear switches. Guess that settles it, not a cruiser. Weird about the paint though, but at least it matches the new vent shades; phone was dead when I put em on so no pics til later.
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Apr 26, 2017 00:26
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I'm having a weird issue with my ABS on my 03, it will randomly stop working and show the abs and parking brake idiot lights then those will randomly go off and everything is fine again. I took it in to a local independent shop who I trust but they couldn't replicate the issue and it wasn't throwing any codes, so now it's like some kind of loving scooby doo mystery. I figure it has to be either a janky wheel sensor or the power control module. How would I go about diagnosing this? Anyone else have something similar happen?
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Apr 26, 2017 04:00
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I would start by cleaning off all the sensors and then see what happens.
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Apr 26, 2017 04:21
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Enourmo posted:Cloth seats all around, split bench front, rear inner door handles work, only the standard child lock, rear windows work from rear switches. Yeah, sounds like a detective car. Probably just happened to be a white one that someone decided would be better not-white. Seat Safety Switch posted:So my '88 Town Car has AM radio, and tape, but not FM radio (it just seeks forever and plays static). Does anyone know which of the two antennas is the one that works for FM? FM usually doesn't take much of an antenna. Check the connection at the back of the radio. The boomerang antennas were usually TV. No idea how the antenna toggle is supposed to work.
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Apr 26, 2017 04:38
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Huggable Bear King posted:I'm having a weird issue with my ABS on my 03, it will randomly stop working and show the abs and parking brake idiot lights then those will randomly go off and everything is fine again. I took it in to a local independent shop who I trust but they couldn't replicate the issue and it wasn't throwing any codes, so now it's like some kind of loving scooby doo mystery. I figure it has to be either a janky wheel sensor or the power control module. How would I go about diagnosing this? Anyone else have something similar happen? My wife's 03 Grand Marquis also has this issue so uh lemme know when you figure it out lol
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Apr 26, 2017 05:07
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Mine is doing that too, I'm a couple trips away from just yanking the ABS fuse.
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Apr 26, 2017 05:32
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Does it have bucket seats or split bench? If it's split bench definitely not a cruiser. Not always the case. My '11 P71 is a weirdo, split bench but definitely a cruiser because I pulled the barricade out myself after I bought it. I'm pretty sure since it's 6 years old but only has 100k on the clock that it was probably a school resource officer's car, only real interior wear is on the driver's seat.
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Apr 26, 2017 05:33
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Enourmo posted:Mine is doing that too, I'm a couple trips away from just yanking the ABS fuse. There's a way to get the fault code from the ABS, I think. O'Reilly's Auto had a ODB2 reader that could also read the manufacturer-specific stuff, at least on the '96 Grand Marquis I took them to pull codes. In tat case, it was showinf a bad LF sensor, but the sensor checked out (how to check was online - it's just a VR sensor, IIRC, so readable with a multimeter,) and the wiring was OK to the module, so likely a bad module.
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Apr 30, 2017 02:03
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The bosch one we have has the adaptors, but its honestly a crapshoot if the piece of poo poo will even connect to the vehicle. I have the most luck with gm followed by toyota. I've gotten a single ford to work. Paperclips are far easier and simpler.
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Apr 30, 2017 05:06
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One of my projects I've been looking into is upgrading the rearview mirror in the country squire to another Ford offering from almost the same period. The mirror the Country Squire comes with is just a standard flip-style mirror, and it has some strange corrosion going on that won't clean off. This is what I'm going to replace it with:  This was offered on '94 Thunderbirds and Cougars, as well as an upgrade on some other Ford models, I don't know when they changed to these from the ones that had a rotary style intensity switch, but I think it'll still match. And I'm sick of flipping that tab! The problem is that it's a Gentex 3-pin cable, and all I could find online is a 7-pin! It looks like I can dremel off the extra pins and it'll fit right in, though!  I'm hoping I'll be able to figure the pinout easy enough, it's just +12V (Headlight On), GND, and I believe a third lockout signal so the dimmer doesn't dim when the car is in reverse, but I'll probably skip that since I won't be using that mirror reversing anyways.  I also picked up a fuse tap -> USB for the Dashcam, so I'll be installing that when I do the mirror wiring. I did this already on the '87 Wagon, so that'll be easy! 
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May 31, 2017 22:19
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Neat! I think I may need that. I need to go to the wrecking yard and acquire an F150 overhead console module. I have a CV overhead console, but the module is just a compass. They only used it in civvie models that already had a temp display in the dash with the auto air, but since I have a P71, I want it in the overhead console. The F150 console is different, but appears to have the same module case. I just need to wire in the sensor. I tried to use a Town Car module, but they get data from the car's diagnostic bus, which apparently won't work with the CV. Pity; the TC console I have has Homelink as well. Apparently I can just dig a standalone Homelink out of any Ford, or any vehicle that has it really, since all they need is power and mounting. I can get one of the sun visor mounted ones. I'm going to need change my sun visors if I put in the overhead console anyway. But first, I really should do the timing chain guides, I think. The idle is hinting quite a bit now, but not enough to trigger a check engine light.
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May 31, 2017 22:38
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Anything, in particular, to look out for on 3rd generation towncars? [08-11?] Found a 09 low mileage [20k miles] and a 11 [40k miles] and eyeballing them booth for a possible purchase to replace my 98 continental as a daily driver. Kicking myself for missing out on a 2011 low mileage L series which seems to be pretty rare since most of those seem to be in the 200k+ mile wage these days.
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Jun 20, 2017 15:42
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I don't know if they still had air ride suspension that late, but if so be wary of that on any Towncar. Both the airbags and the lovely plastic air lines running to them from the pump module can get brittle and crack with age; it's a common enough issue that coil spring conversion kits are easily had. If you have a Continental you might be familiar already, just a heads up.
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Jun 20, 2017 17:09
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Darchangel posted:Neat! I think I may need that. I was looking into a similar upgrade on the Squire; the highest-end packages had a "Tripminder" computer which had stuff like instant mpg and a two line date readout. Allegedly the wiring harness plug is hidden deep inside the dashboard, I just need to go in and make sure it's there before I go out and get one. If not, I'd have to start hooking up wires from the speedometer and other places, so I don't think I'd go that far. I wish I had done it when I was doing the wiring stuff below:  So I finally got around to doing the wiring for the mirror and the dashcam! We finally had a nice overcast day here, and it wasn't horribly humid out so I took to digging into the car and getting that mirrror wired up. I took a dremel and cut down the Gentex mirror cable to three pins, wired up the power to a fusetap with a spade connector in-between (more about this later) and the ground to a spade connector as well. I put some PEX over it to tidy it up and tested it out, it worked great! It was easy enough, pin 1 was power and pin 2 was ground. Didn't even need the pin 3 reverse override.  What I ended up doing was wiring it up into the top headliner trim, across the driver's side, down through the A-pillar, up into the dashboard, then straight down past the headlight switchgear, and right over to the fusebox. This is some crude paint-work, but I didn't have any time to get a better shot of the car for this post:    ^ This was by far the scariest piece of trim to remove. Those clips were in there SOLID and I was wedging taped up prybars between headliner and painted metal trim trying to pull it out!  Going up into the dashboard from under the A-pillar  I made a miraculous discovery when I was fudging around with fuse-taps looking for circuits. It turns out on mine (and this may apply to other CVs as well) the supposed "Unused" fuse position in the fusebox was actually powered AND switched! So that gave me another idea that I haven't tried out yet. I picked up an accessory box, and I plan to wire up the mirror and the dashcam to it once I wire up a cable for it. I can just take the spade connectors I wired up for the power and pop-em right on here!  Another neat discovery was that this car actually has a grounding terminal full of spade connectors, so I just hooked up the dashcam and mirror grounds right to it!  There were a few hiccups in the process, though...   Looks like the glue that held some of this stuff together isn't holding up well after all these years! But check it out, after putting the taps in, I decided that the best way to do it was to hook up the mirror to a 5A circuit that was only handling the instrument cluster illumination (and only powered up when the headlight/parking lights come on, and the dashcam to that neat empty fuse spot! Once I get the box in, though, I'll use that empty fuse position. The mirror has a light sensor on both sides, so if it's always on, it will only dim when it sees no light on the front so it can stay on in the day! Check it out: https://gfycat.com/MagnificentVariableGentoopenguin Luxrage fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 20:16
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Yeah, Ford has some hella-grippy panel clips. A lot of GM fuse blocks had, maybe still have, extra recessed male terminals that were extremely handy for adding stuff. My CV is a cop car, so it's got an entire sub-harness under the glovebox with additional fused battery and accessory feeds, and power feeds to the trunk, too, from the big fusebox under the hood. Came in handy for the modest amp I'm using.
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Jun 21, 2017 23:11
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That's kick-rear end that you've got all those hookups. I know I could definitely could have used trunk power in my old cars. Those 12V air pumps and tire fillers always sucked to use when you had to feed them from the cig lighter in the middle of the car! I was reading on another crown vic forum that the 10-pin plug for the TripMinder computer is tucked inside the dashboard under the autolamp sensor on LX crown vics, and maybe some other ones as well, so I think I will be able to get a tripminder installed after all. One finally showed up on ebay so I jumped on it today. I am going to have to take the dashboard cover off of the car anyways, as I discovered today that I took my employee parking pass off of my mirror when doing the wiring, put it on the bare metal dashboard, and installed the dash-pad back on top of it! I'm also getting the cable ready to install that breakout power box for the mirror and the dashcam. So far it seems like the wiring is all working during my drive today, so that's a plus!
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Jun 22, 2017 03:21
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So I found out that my car DOES have the plugs available for the tipminder, however, what I thought was one plug, was actually FOUR, and the ebay seller who listed this thing was kind enough to cut the wiring harness for it in half so he could sell the plug on ebay... What I need:  what I have:  SO, after digging the dashboard apart trying to find these plugs, and then accidentally disconnecting the speedometer cable and not 100% being able to reinstall it, I'm guessing I'm going to have to build ANOTHER wiring harness for this cable, just without the available OEM plugs that I'll need to hook it up. I can't seem to find the harness anywhere online, nor do I have the plugs available, but I found pretty much all of them under the dash at various spots (speed sensor for the cruise control box, fuel flow was found in one of the proper tripminder plugs, so I'm just gonna have to buy a bunch of wire and start splicing  What I read from a cougar thread on another forum for all of this is (and some of these colors might be different, but I have the CV plug on mine so I can at least tell what colors go where) Pin 1: EMPTY Pin 2: EMPTY Pin 3: Ignition Power (light blue/black stripe) Pin 4: Dimmer (light blue/red stripe) Pin 5: Power (light green/yellow stripe) Pin 6: Fuel Flow Input (light blue/pink stripe) Pin 7: Ground (black) Pin 8: Speed Input (dark green/white stripe) Pin 9: Ground (black) I have from the clock the Black, light green, and light blue/black stripe. So the rest I will have to dig up from inside the car. I found the Dark Green/White stripe and the light blue/pink stripe under the dash cover. The pink and white I see underneath the car, it's just the pure white one that gives me pause. Fake Edit: Haven't found the empty plug under the dash that has it, I guess, but I will keep looking. I couldn't find any wiring harness kits at any of the local stores, NAPA is closed on Sundays, and I couldn't find any wiretaps available anywhere either. Since I have to get this car back together by the end of daylight, I'm just gonna have to wire it up manually with some good ol splicing, soldering, and crying... 
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Jun 25, 2017 22:57
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Welp, my portable soldering iron is complete rear end and I don't have anywhere to plug in a real one, so I got real good with crimping. I did the wiring for the clock, since that was all in front of me and had lots of workable space, and check it out! At least the clock works, and all the buttons do too, I guess it's not TOO bad! I might have to use scotchlok's on the rest of the wiring since it's all low voltage signal stuff, hopefully that's not a crime in the automotive modding community, but I don't have much space to get at the one in the dash! Check out that two-line display:  
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Jun 26, 2017 01:41
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Scotch-loks are a crime against electronics everywhere. You will regret using them. Get a Weller 125 watt soldering gun (not iron) for doing car stuff in situ. And keep the tip and mounting nuts thereof clean and tight. (Former mobile electronics installer, here)
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Jun 27, 2017 17:35
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Darchangel posted:Scotch-loks are a crime against electronics everywhere. You will regret using them. Get a Weller 125 watt soldering gun (not iron) for doing car stuff in situ. And keep the tip and mounting nuts thereof clean and tight. (Former mobile electronics installer, here) I ended up not using any of them, as a matter of fact, the job ended up being easier than I thought! In the end, I didn't need to splice a single wire in the car itself, so I avoided Scotch-lok hell, and all the soldering I had to do for the Tripminder's wiring harness I was able to do in the house! Here's what ended up happening, a lot of the time spent was me being stupid  I was an idiot, though, for a few reasons, but some of it wasn't entirely my fault. So here's what happened. I read that for all of the panthers offered with the tripminder, they hooked up via a big wiring harness that went into the dash and below it to a whole lot of connectors. I linked it before in the thread, this one: Well, that was true, EXCEPT 89s . I had to dig deep into a few crown vic forums to find that little tidbit out. The tripminder was discontinued in '90, so it was a one year specific wiring setup. I had spent a good hour digging around under the dashboard and wondering why my cabling didn't line up with what everyone was saying they had for it. Now, this gave me a new problem, but also an interesting update: 1). The plugs were no longer under the dashboard, they were all consolidated into one plug underneath the autolamp sensor on the dashboard:  2). The plug was a specific type that was apparently discontinued.  The plus side to having everything right there, was, I didn't have to start splicing and soldering different cables together, I dug through my connectors and found some bullet style ones that actually fit onto the pins that the plug had, they looked like this:  I just wired up some female leads to some wires and I ended up with this:  Now, you may ask yourself, why aren't those cables labeled? Well, the forum I finally found a post in of a guy installing one of these into an '89 had the wires labeled wrong. I found this out when I saw that one pin in his diagram was to be tied to ground, and found it was the instrumentation backlighting circuit, so I decided to suss it out myself and figure out the pins manually and label them afterwards. So here's where the I'm an idiot part comes into play. Well, on the original clock, it had four pins. One for battery constant power, one for switched accessory power, and two black cables which I assumed were both ground. Hell, even the cable on the tripminder had the two black grounds tied together. Simple, I thought, they were both ground, so I picked one and wired the tripminder to it...   I was wrong. Both cables acted as ground when the headlights were off, but one got voltage when the headlamps were on. The original clock showed no change in back-lighting or even a flicker when the headlights came on, so I had assumed they were both ground. Hell they were the same color!  Well, I plugged in the OTHER ground cable, and wouldn't you know it, the backlighting worked! The nice thing was that pinout from the Cougar/Thunderbird owner's club from before WAS 100% spot on. So my first issue with being an idiot was not checking both grounds, the second comes from was to check the owner's manual.   The owner's manual had SIX pages of writeup on the Tripminder with how it worked, examples of using it, and a full troubleshooting guide! After I figured that out, the wiring diagram that that guy had put online was easily remedied and I was able to swap the signal cables until the minder got the readouts that matched the book!  It's a sea of buttons in that tiny square, and it barely fits in the hole that they made for it, but drat, it's cool!  Other than the two line time, it has an HH:MM:SS timer, average speed, gallons used, a trip odometer, as well as instant and average fuel economy! So much information I really don't need, but love to SEE! The most important thing after all this is I learned a heckuva lot about the wiring in this car, and I somehow didn't break anything in the process, other than a handful of blown fuses! Now my car is full of that digital tech to bring it into the 21st century! The next thing on the agenda is I found out my valve covers are leaking oil, not at an alarming rate, but something I'm going to get fixed next week just to get it out of the way. Funnily enough, my '87 had the same issue!
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Jul 4, 2017 21:14
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When I first got the car, I noticed a little crack on the front chrome-plastic headlight surround right where a screw went in. I noticed getting gas yesterday that it's totally snapped off a chunk of it from what I can only guess is the air moving through it:  I looked to see how much of the front end is plasti-  
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Jul 8, 2017 04:03
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So, the new headlight surround came in, I installed it and it's good to go. The fit is kind of wonky, but I think it just needs to be adjusted a little bit. I swapped over the lenses from mine, since they were less damaged. I was hoping the chrome on the replacement would be a little less pitted, but it's still in decent shape.  I also found out it wasn't the wind that did it in. So I had taken it in for an alignment and oil change at a place that I was told was the best in the area, they did everything you could ever want; they would drive you somwhere, they gave you food and drink if you asked, they were quick, and their work was top notch. I took the car back today for some touch-up on the alignment, and after I was done the guy said "Your car looks pretty clean, did you want the complementary car wash this time?" Last time while I was getting work done on it they threw it through a full automatic-brush carwash... I'm glad nothing else got ripped off. Most car-washes I've gone to like that won't even take the wagon on account of the roof-rack and side railings! Added another stone chip to the collection on the windsheild on the way back, too. I was told not to get too attached to windshields down here, and I can see why.
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Jul 10, 2017 23:19
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So, in some unfortunate news, my friend who owned this sweet black '85 LTD Crown Vic had to sell it Honestly, I think it was for the better. It grenaded the engine right after he bought it, and he's never had any luck with the rebuilt engines he had installed. The first time his shop installed a 5.8L they botched it up completely, and he was going to change shops. However, the warranty would only cover it if he stayed with the same shop, so they installed ANOTHER 5.8L and that one also had issues. It also had a lot of trim pieces falling off, a broken aftermarket radio with the radio wiring butchered, falling down headliner, really wooden-feeling brakes, and only the two dash speakers for sound. I think it was a good learning experience for him, much like my red wagon was before I bought the squire. However, he wants to buy another one, and find a properly good one this time, so I'm going to help him find the one of his dreams, and a fully loaded one this time! His two wants really were just having the aluminum turbine wheels and being black, so that shouldn't be too hard. The turbines were only on the higher end models anyhow. I'm going to be meeting up with him and I'm bringing all the dealer brochures I've collected from having the two wagons and go over what he's looking for specifically. When I'm done with him, he'll be able to tell which trim packages are which just based on blurry craigslist photos.  One thing he did mention is he wants a pre-facelift panther LTD... so I might try to find him an elusive two door.... 
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Sep 1, 2017 19:37
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Luxrage posted:So, in some unfortunate news, my friend who owned this sweet black '85 LTD Crown Vic had to sell it I am sad that you did not post it here in SA to sell for him. To me, specifically.
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Sep 1, 2017 21:34
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Darchangel posted:I am sad that you did not post it here in SA to sell for him. To me, specifically. It was a shock to me, I had no idea he was even selling it! I was planning in helping him unstick his power windows when I messaged him!
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Sep 1, 2017 22:23
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Question - I have an aftermarket stereo in my 98 Crown Vic, and I can't get electrical interference out of the system. No hum in the speakers, but my AM and FM reception is sub par, with AM being especially noisy from electrical interference. I installed two inline noise filters (one for the 12v constant, one for the switched) which has helped somewhat but not enough for my liking. Would it be feasible to run a new ground to try and get the ignition/alternator noise out? And if so, where could I find a good chassis ground?
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Sep 3, 2017 06:50
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I'd put more effort in to checking your existing grounds. If you have a bad ground somewhere, adding another one might even make the problem worse unless you accidentally end up putting the new one basically where the bad one is. Crown Vics are possibly the most documented vehicle on the face of the earth from a radio and RFI standpoint, I'd pull up one of the radio/police equipment upfitter guides that are all over the internet and check out their troubleshooting steps. Since the problem is specific to radio reception I'd suspect the problem is in the antenna assembly or the receiver itself. I forget which antenna '98s have but if it's the fender one it could be loose in its mounts. The cable could also be damaged. If you have access to another vehicle you can easily get the dash apart in maybe try swapping the receiver around and see if the problem follows it.
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Sep 3, 2017 15:27
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RCR's Marauder video is worth a double post, isn't it? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTJq7WU0VdU
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Sep 5, 2017 22:11
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wolrah posted:I'd put more effort in to checking your existing grounds. If you have a bad ground somewhere, adding another one might even make the problem worse unless you accidentally end up putting the new one basically where the bad one is. I'd agree that I would suspect an antenna issue, or at the very least, the noise coming in on the antenna lead. Sounds like the shielding on the lead is not grounded.
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Sep 5, 2017 23:47
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Darchangel posted:I'd agree that I would suspect an antenna issue, or at the very least, the noise coming in on the antenna lead. Sounds like the shielding on the lead is not grounded. The 98 has the antenna in the glass, so I'll start in the rear. Will also work on shielding the coax at the radio to see if that helps. I swapped head units with a friend who has the same one in his car - no change. Still the same interference - but at least now I have a starting place, so thanks for the tip. In other Panther related news, I made it as one of the three finalists to win a 93 Town Car Jack Nicklaus Edition from a YouTuber who writes for Autotrader (Hoovie's Garage). If I win, the 98 Vic gets passed on to my girlfriends daughter so she can have a good car and keep the Panther love going (my submission video has the 98 Vic and my girlfriends 00 Grand Marquis in it, as well as my 96 Fleetwood). So hopefully another Panther will be gracing my driveway soon - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wK0NRMCDNjk if you want to see me goof off and get on my knees and beg for the car.
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Sep 6, 2017 03:27
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wolrah posted:RCR's Marauder video is worth a double post, isn't it? I've met Dom, the owner of that Marauder, and while he is weird as gently caress sometimes, I applaud the miles and parts he has put behind him in that car.
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Sep 6, 2017 06:09
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I ordered some color samples for a new leather steering wheel cover for the Country Squire today, the OEM leather one on it came with was cracking pretty badly. I will also order one for the '87 Wagon, since I'm getting ready to sell that one. That should help when people drive it, as well as myself, because the rubber on the wheel is horrible and makes my hands sticky constantly.  I also polished up the car for an upcoming auto show next week, buffed the crap out of the paint, 303'd the wood siding, and cleaned up the chromework. I'll do the tires and windows the day of the show:  The buffing brought out the shine in the paint! However, it also brought out a myriad of scratches, including one on the corner of the hood where it looks like someone has sat on it:  I should poke around instagram and see if I can spot it, I've heard of that kind of thing happening before! I also ordered a new under-hood insulation sheet for the '87, as I probably shouldn't be breathing this:  Spotted in town, another almond vic!  I ordered a proper car cover for the squire, no place in town had a cover large enough to fit! Luxrage fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Sep 7, 2017 |
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Sep 7, 2017 06:09
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| # ? May 11, 2024 06:15 |
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realtalk love that woody
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Sep 7, 2017 06:33
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