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insta posted:About 3 years for it to pay itself off. Less if you factor in the increased energy usage from AC. (assuming 8 hours a day in usage, 12c/kwh) What about factoring in the chances the LED bulb will fail before then? Even if the LED itself wont burn out for 10000 years the rest of the electronics in the bulb can. My apartment came with a bunch of Cree bulbs that are now all dead. mcgreenvegtables fucked around with this message at 20:18 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 7, 2017 20:15
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mcgreenvegtables posted:What about factoring in the chances the LED bulb will fail before then? Even if the LED itself wont burn out for 10000 years the rest of the electronics in the bulb can. My apartment came with a bunch of Cree bulbs that are now all dead. Were they recessed in cans or otherwise enclosed? Heat is the enemy of LED bulbs and those recessed cans trap heat like nothing else.
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May 7, 2017 20:43
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm assuming he's taking the piss, but a LOT of HOAs (which are everywhere in California) prohibit line drying clothes, yes. Not just HOAs - this is in my city code http://cityofmissionviejo.org/departments/community-development/code-enforcement/regulations/sec959110-nuisances-designated quote:Sec. 9.59.110. - Nuisances designated. gently caress them, I have the right to dry.
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May 7, 2017 20:59
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Lobbyists for Big Drier keeping the common man down
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May 8, 2017 00:24
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mcgreenvegtables posted:What about factoring in the chances the LED bulb will fail before then? Even if the LED itself wont burn out for 10000 years the rest of the electronics in the bulb can. My apartment came with a bunch of Cree bulbs that are now all dead. No, my math assumes the bulbs work perfectly for 8 hours a day, every day, for about 2.4 years and that he pays 12 cents per kilowatt-hour. (and was running 3x 75W bulbs before and replaced them with 3x 18W LEDs)
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May 8, 2017 00:34
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FogHelmut posted:Not just HOAs - this is in my city code
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May 8, 2017 01:54
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insta posted:No, my math assumes the bulbs work perfectly for 8 hours a day, every day, for about 2.4 years and that he pays 12 cents per kilowatt-hour. (and was running 3x 75W bulbs before and replaced them with 3x 18W LEDs) That's just the incandescent -> LED upgrade benefits. I don't think anyone was seriously questioning those. Are the Hues really going to save you money over normal LEDs though?
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May 8, 2017 02:21
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Mr.Radar posted:Were they recessed in cans or otherwise enclosed? Heat is the enemy of LED bulbs and those recessed cans trap heat like nothing else. Most of the flood style LED bulbs that go in recessed cans usually have venting to help with that. I know I have a bunch of dimmable in the kitchen and my family room and they've lasted for two years so far and still going string. I do have some recessed lighting in my hallway that uses a frosted glass plate over an incandescent housing that I use LED bulbs in. I lost one a month ago after about 2 years of service and I'm pretty sure it was due to heat. I'm no looking at replacing those fixtures with a flat LED panel instead like this: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-303099-SlimSurface-Surface-Downlight/dp/B0148JLCMS
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May 8, 2017 06:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's just the incandescent -> LED upgrade benefits. I don't think anyone was seriously questioning those. Are the Hues really going to save you money over normal LEDs though? Probably not, but if you're going to upgrade anyway why not get the cool features bonus? I redid all the bulbs in my house 2 years ago from "efficient" halogen and cfl to all led, I was tempted by the hue system but it would have been 3-5 times the cost. The only things I'm not happy with wouldn't have been fixed by hue anyway. That reminds me, I have a halogen desk light and the cooker hood still runs on incandescents. Not sure the hood is a good place for leds.
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May 8, 2017 06:15
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cakesmith handyman posted:Probably not, but if you're going to upgrade anyway why not get the cool features bonus? You're probably stuck with incandescents for the hood. Something that's intended to take a lot of heat and steam is a bad spot for LED lightbulbs.
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May 8, 2017 07:30
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Liquid Communism posted:You're probably stuck with incandescents for the hood. Something that's intended to take a lot of heat and steam is a bad spot for LED lightbulbs. Yeah don't put them in sauna either unless they're specifically designed to withstand it (some are).
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May 8, 2017 07:30
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insta posted:No, my math assumes the bulbs work perfectly for 8 hours a day, every day, for about 2.4 years and that he pays 12 cents per kilowatt-hour. (and was running 3x 75W bulbs before and replaced them with 3x 18W LEDs) It’s six 100 W BR20 bulbs replaced with 11 W LED PAR20s. They’re supposed to be replacements for 90 W incandescents. Raw lumen output is less from the figures I can find for the incandescents, but the incandescents are BR20s that don’t direct light well and waste a lot of light in the fixture, so there’s that. BR20s are simply not available anymore, and most LED replacements are 40–60 W equivalent, so I’m sold on 90 W. $130 ÷ (0.089 W∕bulb × 6 bulbs × 8 hours∕day × $0.12∕kW‐hour) = 254 days They actually run more than eight hours per day and I pay more than 12¢ per kilowatt hour, but either way, the payback period is not long at all. I do worry a little about heat, but the fixture has vents and isn’t recessed into the ceiling and the Soraa bulbs seem to have a healthy heat sink. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 08:02 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 07:56
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Liquid Communism posted:You're probably stuck with incandescents for the hood. Something that's intended to take a lot of heat and steam is a bad spot for LED lightbulbs. Thought so. The hood itself has terrible airflow though, I may see if a good replacement comes with leds mounted so they don't get the steam directly.
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May 8, 2017 08:55
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flosofl posted:I'm no looking at replacing those fixtures with a flat LED panel instead like this: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-303099-SlimSurface-Surface-Downlight/dp/B0148JLCMS These look promising, though somehow I can't find them for sale anywhere in the U.K. / Europe. Are they a new product?
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May 8, 2017 14:23
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wooger posted:These look promising, though somehow I can't find them for sale anywhere in the U.K. / Europe. Are they a new product? Honestly, I'm not sure. I just stumbled across them last week when one the LEDs in the hall burned out. I was actually looking for recessed lighting that had venting on the edges and found those.
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May 8, 2017 15:24
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My neighbors are apparently reorganizing their back yard, and last night they decided to move their prefab shed - they dragged it over and wedged it between their house and the fence, the fit is so tight they were literally scraping it against the fence and building to manhandle it into place. What makes it really weird is that decided to do this directly under the spot where their gutter fell off and they've never replaced, so now when it rains the water is going to come sluicing off the roof/out of the broken gutter, and directly onto the roof of their shed.... which is going to shed it against their wall. The fit is so tight I'd be surprised if they don't get standing water in the wedge between the shed roof and the siding. Bonus round - this is all the side that they scraped a ton of paint off and then never actually got around to repainting, so a ton of the siding there is just exposed wood without any paint or anything. I don't know if that will make a difference, but I doubt it helps. It's weird watching a structure fall apart due to terrible decisions and neglected maintenance in real time.
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May 8, 2017 15:49
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Maybe they are using the shed as a ladder what do you think of that smart guy
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May 8, 2017 16:43
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I think this goes beyond Fix it Fast, but the shed post reminded me of my own thing so I'm gonna post here instead in hopes of avoiding having to post here again later. I want to add a roof over the side slab on my pole barn. Here's what I'm working with:  My current plan is to put a few posts along the edge of the slab there, run a header across them, and then attach trusses to the side of the barn and sitting on the header, in order to act as a horizontal tie and a sloped structure for the roof. Not a steep slope, just enough to shed water. I'm not worried about getting very much snow load. It could happen, but a slick metal roof should shed relatively well even with a minimal grade. The guy that laid the slab said that side slab would probably move up and down, so my posts shouldn't sit on the slab itself, since that'd make the thing want to tear itself apart. So I'm going to get an auger and bore down about four feet in the dirt right next to the slab, put a foot of gravel in the bottom, drop a treated post in, and back fill with concrete. That side slab is 10' wide, and the roofed portion will be 26' long. I expect the roof to meet the barn right under the soffit there, while leaving the vents exposed, so not a smooth continuation of the existing roof, there'll be a step. I intend to run a gutter along the edge of the new roofline so as to not wash away my dirt there. Anyhow, am I more or less on target here? Any glaring issues? Also, how best to attach the truss to the side of the barn? There are 6x6 posts inside every 8', but I'm looking for specifics. Also, I don't think I need to actually seal up the seam of the new roof to be watertight where it meets the wall, since it'll be right under the soffit anyhow and this isn't going to be considered an "inside" space, but it'd be nice if I could more or less seal it up, which I'm not sure how to approach on account of the corrugated metal siding. Any ideas there? Just globbing the seam full of caulk seems pretty dumb as those corrugations are like an inch deep, but it's about all I've come up with so far. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:51 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 16:46
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Bad Munki posted:The guy that laid the slab said that side slab would probably move up and down, so my posts shouldn't sit on the slab itself, since that'd make the thing want to tear itself apart. So I'm going to get an auger and bore down about four feet in the dirt right next to the slab, put a foot of gravel in the bottom, drop a treated post in, and back fill with concrete. I would be tempted to put some small concrete piers to the side of the slab and attach your posts to those. But are you in a heavy freeze area? It would probably work where I am, but I don't know if it would work where you are.
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May 8, 2017 17:04
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Central Iowa. It freezes, but not, like, Fairbanks AK freeze. The drainage is pretty good at the barn, too, so there shouldn't be a lot of water in the ground to cause heave. e: Are you thinking something more like this? 
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May 8, 2017 17:14
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Bad Munki posted:Central Iowa. It freezes, but not, like, Fairbanks AK freeze. The drainage is pretty good at the barn, too, so there shouldn't be a lot of water in the ground to cause heave. Exactly. But you might ask some local folks if that is a good idea where you are. I plan to do similar out back of our barn for a covered area to store tractor implements but we don't have a frost line so I am just going to go as deep as my tractor auger will dig. Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 17:24 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 17:19
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I know the posts for the barn itself are sunk directly in the ground, and it's survived half a decade now with no issues, so there's at least that. I'll take a look around, maybe make some calls. Any thoughts on the question(s) re: where the new roof meets the wall of the barn, and attaching the trusses to the existing structure?
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May 8, 2017 17:26
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Bad Munki posted:Anyhow, am I more or less on target here? Any glaring issues? Also, how best to attach the truss to the side of the barn? There are 6x6 posts inside every 8', but I'm looking for specifics. Also, I don't think I need to actually seal up the seam of the new roof to be watertight where it meets the wall, since it'll be right under the soffit anyhow and this isn't going to be considered an "inside" space, but it'd be nice if I could more or less seal it up, which I'm not sure how to approach on account of the corrugated metal siding. Any ideas there? Just globbing the seam full of caulk seems pretty dumb as those corrugations are like an inch deep, but it's about all I've come up with so far. 1/ I think literally putting great big bolts through the posts and truss should suffice. 2/ there are pre-cut filler strips made for this exact purpose, usually sold the same place as the siding.
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May 8, 2017 17:47
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Oh, really? That's cool. I wasn't here when the barn was built, so I have no idea where the builder sourced the siding from, but I do think I have some scraps around that I can use to source some matching material(s). Thanks!
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May 8, 2017 17:56
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We have a patio roof that meets the side of our garage a few inches below the overhanging slope above. From experience, I'd advise you to not create a void there: it fills with dead leaves, animals make nests, it sucks. If you can't avoid it, a good idea would be to set some kind of durable metal mesh or screening all around the void, just behind the lip of the roof flashing, to keep anything bigger than a small bug out but still permit ventilation into the soffit vents. If you're willing to do more work/spend more money etc., this arrangement is better because it doesn't create a void/double roof thing: 
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May 8, 2017 18:01
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If you get a lot of snow, that might create a new headache because the stuff that slides off your steep metal roof is going to pile up on your flatter carport.
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May 8, 2017 18:48
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(Un)fortunately, it'd be a freak occurrence if that happened, these days. It's not out of the question, but I feel like I should be able to make it strong enough to withstand even a moderate snow load.
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May 8, 2017 18:49
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High Lord Elbow posted:If you get a lot of snow, that might create a new headache because the stuff that slides off your steep metal roof is going to pile up on your flatter carport. Hook your roofing up to a breaker and give the roof a defrost setting.
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May 8, 2017 18:59
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Atticus_1354 posted:Hook your roofing up to a breaker and give the roof a defrost setting. Just vent your bathroom vent to the space instead of your attic. Good to go.
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May 8, 2017 19:51
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I ain't no fancy bathroom-in-a-barn haver, you need to piss you step out back and piss into them trees like god intended.
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May 8, 2017 20:00
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Chef Boyardeez Nuts posted:I have Hue bulbs in one room and it owns. One caveat is that they don't do green very well. The Gen 3 bulbs fixed that issue. I've got third gen exclusively and zero issues with getting a good green out of them.
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May 8, 2017 21:31
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Atticus_1354 posted:Hook your roofing up to a breaker and give the roof a defrost setting. You laugh but I personally heard a Vermont resident propose doing exactly this with a metal roof.
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May 8, 2017 22:22
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High Lord Elbow posted:You laugh but I personally heard a Vermont resident propose doing exactly this with a metal roof. https://heatedroofsystems.com/
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May 8, 2017 22:24
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Did the Brady Bunch run a Victorian brothel, or did the home owners find possibly the worst home stager on the planet, who also happened time traveller? http://www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/29-Avon-Rd_Springfield_NJ_07081_M63946-56229#photo0             
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May 8, 2017 23:49
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Has that place been sealed in tupperware since 1975 or something? It looks immaculate (on my phone anway). Insane, but immaculate.
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May 9, 2017 00:08
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That's so goddamned ugly it almost comes out the other side as a beautiful disaster.
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May 9, 2017 00:12
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the only problem is the water damage on the upper right of the red room
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May 9, 2017 00:19
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I actually kinda like that black and gold marble-esque poo poo in that bathroom. I'd never put it in my bathroom, though
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May 9, 2017 00:20
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Tuhao Disco Victorian... New Jersey.
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May 9, 2017 00:21
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High Lord Elbow posted:That's so goddamned ugly it almost comes out the other side as a beautiful disaster. It's not my cup of tea but I like that they went all out with it.
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May 9, 2017 00:31
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