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Phone posted:The 6-speed doesn't have it. You only have to fill the turret in the 5-speeds. How about for the NC 6spd?
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Apr 24, 2017 13:27
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Phone posted:the first pic, that bracket is the sensor ground, it gets bolted near the front of the intake manifold No it's not. It's a bracket that goes ont he side of the block near the PS/AC pump. I believe one side holds a plastic clip to keep the wire to the crank sensor in place, the other holds a coolant pipe that goes to the intake manifold, or to the mixing manifold or something.
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Apr 25, 2017 00:35
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could anyone point me at a good alignment for a full time autocross car (1996 NA)? No daily driving or proper track days. I just bought a set of 205/50 Ventus V720 and want to make it a full time racing car. I was going to hand it to a specialty alignment shop but thought just "here, hit these numbers" would be cheaper. Also, are most alignment places willing to replace camber bolts? I've never done that and figure its time. Is it a big mechanical job or just an extra step? Thank you.
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Apr 26, 2017 15:09
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It's an extra step and they'll charge you for labor, so if you want to save like $100, highly recommend just doing it at home. Alignment is going to vary on a lot of things, namely ride right which dictates static camber.
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Apr 26, 2017 15:17
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http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx
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Apr 26, 2017 15:18
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Sebastien Lenorman posted:could anyone point me at a good alignment for a full time autocross car (1996 NA)? No daily driving or proper track days. I just bought a set of 205/50 Ventus V720 and want to make it a full time racing car. I was going to hand it to a specialty alignment shop but thought just "here, hit these numbers" would be cheaper. I had a shop break the bolts into the frame and then walk away from the car claiming it was too rusty. I broke them all loose by hand at home and replaced them myself. Still pissed about it. If you're in the rust belt and just going to a chain store for an alignment job, do it yourself. A high end shop will do it but it's definitely still an extra step ($$$). You can't hit race alignment numbers on a miata without extended ball joints. I couldn't get past -1.2 or so in the front. I have them in a box and will install/align shortly.
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Apr 26, 2017 18:38
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Oh man, the rear sill section is really starting to rust out now on my 2003, there's even a rust bubble visible from normal standing height. Cutting it out and replacing with new steel is the only fix for this, right?
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Apr 26, 2017 18:42
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My 10AE survived the first track day at Rudskogen in Norway!  A fairly cold day at around 4-5° C and intermittent snow (no poo poo) at the beginning, but I was marshal the first two hours, so by the time I got on, the track was nice and dry. The 595 RS-R tires I was sceptical about handled things like a champ, but my bad braking lead to mushy brakes even with RBF600 brake fluid, so welp. Some teasing from a friend with a GT2, but that's to be expected  Got ferodo DS2500 pads on the way, but our supplier wasn't able to get them in time for this... Welp.
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Apr 26, 2017 21:44
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Xidas install, and alignment is good enough to get it to the shop. All I can say is holy poo poo, what a difference. Blaise posted:You can't hit race alignment numbers on a miata without extended ball joints. I couldn't get past -1.2 or so in the front. I have them in a box and will install/align shortly. You'll need to set your toe before you can drive to the alignment shop. I had 1.125" toe in per side after installing mine.
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Apr 26, 2017 23:49
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TrueChaos posted:Xidas install, and alignment is good enough to get it to the shop. All I can say is holy poo poo, what a difference.  that's a lot of toe. Noted. I'll get it close before driving over but it's not far luckily. I aligned my Silverado with the good-old string method and it's been fine so I'm sure I can start there for the poor sunburst.
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Apr 27, 2017 12:13
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mobby_6kl posted:Oh man, the rear sill section is really starting to rust out now on my 2003, there's even a rust bubble visible from normal standing height. Cutting it out and replacing with new steel is the only fix for this, right? Or Exocet. 
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Apr 27, 2017 16:03
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Disaster has struck! (no rust shaming pls) While trying to drop my rear subframe (99) the front stud broke on each side up inside the frame - it freewheels now whenever I try to back off the nut. I already have the interior stripped out, so after I finished swearing I noticed that once you remove the panel that would normally be under the carpet/soft top I have direct access to the body above where the stud attaches to the frame - so I have a plan: Get a hole saw, cut the smallest hole I can get away with above the stud, hammer out the stud, drop a bolt down (probably lose said bolt in the frame, retrieve it, lose it again, retrieve it), then cover the hole with a grommet or removable plate so in the unlikely even that the subframe ever comes off again I'll be able to get a socket on the bolt inside the frame. I can't imagine a hole in this spot will have any real structural effects but I'd love any second opinions on this plan.  edit: this thing is super fun to wheel around the driveway 
Niven fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 14:08
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Probably cheapest and easiest way to deal with it. Will suck needing two people to tighten that bolt down in the future, though. Sounds like an awesome excuse to get a welder, throw some tacks on the bolt head, then cover the hole you drilled out. Same thing happened to my truck bed when trying to take it off, and now I have a welder in case I need it. 
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Apr 30, 2017 17:29
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Hah, my exact thought process was as follows: "huh why did it-" *SNAP* "FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK" "ooh maybe now I buy a welder"
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Apr 30, 2017 17:37
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Wouldn't it be easier to just find a miata that needs an engine?
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May 1, 2017 15:39
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Finally sprung for a SmartTop module. It's such a minor little thing, but being able to operate the top without having to park somewhere is really, really awesome.
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May 3, 2017 16:39
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Finally sprung for a SmartTop module. It's such a minor little thing, but being able to operate the top without having to park somewhere is really, really awesome. Yeah my car came with one of these and I can't imagine not having it. If I had to replace my car it is the first mod I would add.
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May 3, 2017 18:10
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Let me just tell you about my cool breeze scoop and how amazing it is and furthermore
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May 3, 2017 18:15
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Let me just tell you about my cool breeze scoop and how amazing it is and furthermore funnels the bugs right into your face!
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May 4, 2017 14:39
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:funnels the bugs right into your face! It does not! It funnels them into your lap.
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May 4, 2017 14:58
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Specifically your crotch.
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May 4, 2017 15:12
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Goober Peas posted:Specifically your crotch. To hang out with your other bugs.
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May 4, 2017 16:32
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Larrymer posted:To hang out with your other bugs. No crab-shaming  Ugh, I'll probably have to replace some rather rusted out power steering pipes on my RHD 10AE soon, how much of a pain in the rear end is that going to be?
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May 4, 2017 16:48
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loving personal record, 30 miles on a new RE-71R.  
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May 9, 2017 04:00
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I'm looking at a certified-used fully loaded 2013 Miata Grand Touring and the only two things giving me pause are the vibrations coming through the stick shift and some wear on the leather. I would describe the stick shift vibrations as excessive but one of my Miata driving friends says it's probably normal. Some googling suggests it could be relieved by loosening and re tightening the bolts holding the power train to the frame. The leather is my bigger gripe as on the drivers seat there is significant wear from the previous owner getting in and out I think. Picture here: http://i.imgur.com/B0dyTLM.jpg Is that something that would be easily lessened or remedied with some kind of leather care product or something? It's just so obvious and painful to look at, and it would be there EVERY time I open the door. With all that said, I think I can get them to 18-18.5K for it and it only has 25K miles. That's a pretty good deal, right? e: It's PRHT and I know it's not the right "a e s t h e t i c" for a Miata, but it's what I want.
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May 9, 2017 04:00
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The saddle leather seats show wear worse than any other leather seats I have ever seen. Mine are a loving mess.
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May 9, 2017 04:05
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giundy posted:loving personal record, 30 miles on a new RE-71R. it's in the meat, you're fine i picked up a nail or something in november and didn't fix it until march (tires/wheels off the car though)
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May 9, 2017 04:14
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Ignore anyone who'd give you crap for having a PRHT. That leather is dog poo poo though and is in significantly worse state than even my 06 GT.
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May 9, 2017 04:16
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The PRHT is a great car and arguably the best Miata daily. I have an 09 fully loaded gt and have zero regrets.
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May 9, 2017 04:29
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SpartanIV posted:I'm looking at a certified-used fully loaded 2013 Miata Grand Touring... Price sounds about right. Not sure where you are but I bought a 2014 club Prht manual w/ 22k miles for $17.5k in march (excluding sales tax). Apparently they had trouble selling since it's a manual. PRHT is awesome. I had to replace the stereo though asap since not having Bluetooth sucks and I like my fancy touch screen.
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May 9, 2017 04:34
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I'm in Dallas, TX. So there's a lot of drivers here and probably more demand. I know they did sell basically the same care with 40K+ miles on it on Saturday with an asking price of $17K. So there is some demand for manuals here. As far as I can tell this particular one has been on the lot for 22 days and came up from Houston though. It has a bluetooth bose stereo and the keyless upgrade too! (Among everything else. The only thing I can't confirm is if it has the suspension package) Thanks for all the responses! It's my first time buying a car solo so I'm destroying myself with self doubt.
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May 9, 2017 04:55
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SpartanIV posted:Thanks for all the responses! It's my first time buying a car solo so I'm destroying myself with self doubt. Sounds like you've done your research, but one thing I would recommend if you haven't (of course, depends on your budget) is to drive an NC then an ND back to back. ND sports are showing up used in 20.0k range with GT ones at 22k sometimes. Sometimes I think I should have sprung the extra 3k to grab a ND or the Fiat (plus the MFG warranty would still be there)
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May 9, 2017 05:38
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Drove generic sedans all my life. Just bought a miata rf, giving up an accord to my sister who's going to college. Still getting used to driving a manual, so maybe it's just nerves, but the visibility seems pretty poor. I saw convex mirrors on amazon to get some blind spot visibility, but not sure how much better that would be and the side mirrors are also tiny. How do you deal with this? The regular convertible with hood up had similar visibility issues so it's not just an RF thing, but probably affects it more.
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May 9, 2017 06:52
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Adjust your mirrors properly and use them a lot. The only time it's a real issue for me is pulling out of parking spots. You have to lean around to look for pedestrians.
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May 9, 2017 11:30
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Taking a stab here, but most likely you're one of the general populace who thinks you're supposed to see the side of your car in your mirrors. It's not too late to learn! (From AAA) Side-view mirrors - To adjust the driver’s side-view mirror, place your head against the left side window and set the mirror so you can just barely see the side of the car in the mirror’s right side. - To adjust the passenger’s side-view mirror, position your head so that it is just above the center console. Set the mirror so you can just barely see the side of the car in the left side of the mirror. If the vehicle is not equipped with remove mirror-adjustment controls, you may need assistance when properly positioning this mirror.  In the above photo, the mirrors are adjusted properly on the top two sections. You can see the red and green car. In the bottom, they are adjusted too far in and your blind spots are still blind. If you can see the cars directly behind you in all 3 mirrors, why do you even have all 3?
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May 9, 2017 14:16
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Zarfol posted:Sounds like you've done your research, but one thing I would recommend if you haven't (of course, depends on your budget) is to drive an NC then an ND back to back. ND sports are showing up used in 20.0k range with GT ones at 22k sometimes. What do you like about the NDs more? I wish the Fiat or the 2016 NDs had hard tops because I'd be all over them but I'm going to be living down town and parking in a parking garage. I think the added security of the hard top is important. Also I'm in Texas where the extra insulation would be helpful vs a soft top.
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May 9, 2017 14:22
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Nocheez posted:If you can see the cars directly behind you in all 3 mirrors, why do you even have all 3? I don't. Took out my rearview mirror because it obstructs my vision forward, so I adjust my side mirror so I can see directly behind, and I just move my head a bit to see wider. I don't find rear/side visibility to be an issue at all in a Miata though. It's nice that "over your shoulder" is pretty much the end of the car, so it's easy to tell when things are clear. And of course with the top down you have better visibility that anything. Elysium fucked around with this message at 16:03 on May 9, 2017 |
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May 9, 2017 15:39
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Elysium posted:Took out my rearview mirror because it obstructs my vision forward, 
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May 9, 2017 15:50
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I actually contemplated doing that in my NB for the same reason. Best solution would've been to lop the windshield and top off altogether, and commute in a helmet.
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May 9, 2017 15:58
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| # ? May 14, 2024 01:13 |
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Have you heard of the Lotus 7, my man!?
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May 9, 2017 16:08
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