|
THE BLACK NINJA posted:This seems like the right place to ask about self monitored home security systems. I noted that the OP is 2 years old, and I admit I did not read 26 pages of posts. I have SmartThings, which can monitor doors/windows. I use it for automation, but there are notification apps to go with it. I'm sure a lot of other home automation systems can do the same. It's not exactly what you asked for, but if you want a monitored solution you can install yourself, my coworker raves about Simplisafe.
|
# ? May 10, 2017 15:01 |
|
|
# ? May 14, 2024 16:54 |
|
^ agreed with all of the above. I've had Simplisafe and it was pretty awesome for a true monitored security system. Now I have a fairly large Smartthings setup and feel safe enough with the "security" features of that system plus home automation is awesome. Keypad entry to the front door, as in unlocking the deadbolt, will likely be stand-alone. Either system will monitor entry into the door though. Nest integrates with Smartthings for presence and control if you wanted but that's about it needs or can do.
|
# ? May 11, 2017 12:12 |
|
Thanks guys. I ordered an Abode starter kit. It looks like it works with Z-Wave door locks, Nest, and other stuff I know nothing about. Its backordered so once I get it installed hopefully I will remember and can share my thoughts.
|
# ? May 11, 2017 16:54 |
|
Is there a Google Home thread somewhere that I'm not finding? Anyone using the Google Home with a Chromecast Audio? I know that to play music to the Chromecast, I'd say "OK, Google, play Bruno Mars using Spotify on Bedroom" Question is, can you control the Chromecast Audio volume using voice commands? Can't seem to find an answer to that question anywhere.
|
# ? May 12, 2017 23:05 |
|
Scrapez posted:Is there a Google Home thread somewhere that I'm not finding? https://support.google.com/googlehome/answer/7072489?hl=en code:
|
# ? May 12, 2017 23:10 |
|
I want it to adjust the volume of a Chromecast Audio. Not the volume of the built in speaker.
|
# ? May 12, 2017 23:12 |
|
I don't have a Chromecast Audio but on my regular Chromecast I can raise and lower the volume with voice commands just fine. I imagine it would work the same way with an Audio.
|
# ? May 12, 2017 23:56 |
|
How do you address the Chromecast vocally? I ask because I'm planning to potentially have 4 Chromecast audios running simultaneously. I'd like to be able to say "Ok, Google, turn volume to 35 in garage"
|
# ? May 13, 2017 05:10 |
|
I honestly don't think it's possible but I don't have a Chromecast Audio to test. I'm pretty sure the voice commands for volume only work on the built in speaker.
|
# ? May 13, 2017 05:50 |
Looks like Google Home is finally coming to Canada. Staples.ca put up a product page, but says out of stock. Of course you can buy from bhphotovideo.com for relatively cheap still ($20 for customs) like I did.
|
|
# ? May 13, 2017 07:29 |
|
I know you can control the level of an audio group by saying "Set volume of <group> to X", I suspect it would work for individual speakers but I'm not home to try. I know for sure you can control the audio level of individual Chromecast Audios by using the Home app on your phone.
|
# ? May 13, 2017 18:15 |
|
The thing that kills me about Home + Chromecast is that if I start playing one thing on a group including a Home, and then on my phone or laptop I change albums or something the Home drops out while the Chromecasts continue playing whatever my Spotify account is pumping out.
|
# ? May 13, 2017 18:27 |
|
I am beginning to plan out some purchases for a starter security/smart setup. My house currently has a roughly 25 year old wired security system that I do not pay a monitoring fee for. Yesterday morning the fire alarm went off and I couldn't figure out how to turn it off so I ended up pulling the power from the control box. So I guess my first question is, is there some generic control box I need to buy to replace the one currently installed since power gets fed there and then out to the current fire/co sensors? After that is figured out I plan on buying 3 wired Nest Protects to begin with since that seems most important for the moment. I also would like to buy a smart thermostat. I see the ecoobee talked about a lot, is that generally preferred over the nest? The current security system has a bunch of motion sensors I would like to replace or incorporate if possible, but I will work on that a bit later. Any advise is appreciated. Edit: I am not set on Nest Protects. Of there are recommended alternatives I will look at them. hitachi fucked around with this message at 17:49 on May 14, 2017 |
# ? May 14, 2017 17:34 |
|
azurite posted:I have a Yale Z-Wave lock and I love it. It unlocks via code or via Z-Wave, no key. If it runs out of juice, you can use a 9V battery as a backup. You'd have to neglect warnings for that to happen, though. A set of batteries lasts for months. The new ones are good, the old ones are poo poo. Also make sure that the z-wave lock is the last thing you add into your chain. I've noticed that if its the first, its routing a lot of traffic and will eat through batteries.
|
# ? May 15, 2017 19:18 |
|
Looking for recommendations for (at least) indoor home-based video monitoring system for my co-worker. I may be involved to some extent (free assistance, probably network/router stuff) and I'm not sufficiently motivated to roll my own system1. She has a special needs child who will have a provider / caretaker this summer while she's at work and would like to look in on them as well as have some record of what happened in case there's an incident. Wants:
She didn't give me an explicit budget but I think $500-ish seems in range. Her family and myself will help w/ installation and configuration. I'm comfortable with the networking/software configuration and would like something that works well and reliably so I don't have to continually assist with it. Her upstream is 5 Mbps. I looked at two DVR + camera kits from Sam's but after checking the Amazon reviews (via Fakespot2) for the kits (at least similar matches) I'm concerned about quality and reliability:
Thanks for reading. 1 I only read a few pages but I saw a few recommendations for hikvision cameras, PoE setup and Blue Iris software running on a PC 2 http://fakespot.com/product/ezviz-s...exa-using-ifttt
|
# ? May 15, 2017 23:58 |
|
First things first. In the US with any audio recording, check with a lawyer. Audio recordings fall under a different set of laws with stricter privacy standards. Violating them generally falls in the felony territory. The requirements may be as simple as informing the caretaker in advance that they will be recorded on audio, or having them sign a wavier. It may fall in the area of don't loving do it. But this very much check with a drat lawyer territory. For the first kit, that system Samsung's AHD stuff. If they decide to expand it in the future, then their options are going to be limited to Samsung's AHD stuff which is a bit of a redheaded step child. The older DVRs in that family tended to have crashing issues when the cameras switched from day to night. Admittedly that was two years ago, they might have fixed it by now. I'd probably give it a pass. The second kit is EZViz which is Hikvision's direct to consumer brand. There are two issues here is that you're gonna have to pay attention to this system. Hikvision has had a bunch of security issues in the last few months including some particularly stupid backdoors. So there is a moderate chance that the NVR can end up as part of a botnet. The second is that the EZViz cameras tend to be rather poor compared to the more mainstream Hikvision cameras. In particular since the mainline Hik stuff isn't expensive. The tricky part with that is not buying versions with Chinese firmware. https://www.amazon.com/HIKVISION-DS...keywords=camera Elves Supply is a company that works with various distributors to put poo poo on e-commerce sites. And I would ignore the limit one. I'd just get two of those and set up a PC with Blue Iris.
|
# ? May 16, 2017 00:40 |
|
spiralbrain posted:The new ones are good, the old ones are poo poo. Also make sure that the z-wave lock is the last thing you add into your chain. I've noticed that if its the first, its routing a lot of traffic and will eat through batteries. Thanks for the tip. Mine is first in the chain, but the same set of batteries have been in there since late last year. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HS1O77G/ref=psdcmw_511306_t2_B005NLKRAO?th=1&psc=1
|
# ? May 17, 2017 16:45 |
|
azurite posted:Thanks for the tip. Mine is first in the chain, but the same set of batteries have been in there since late last year. Depends on how many devices you have in the chain. I have some production ones here at my job that are the newest like this touchpad one: And it does pretty well. The older Schlage and Kwikset really eat through batteries though if its first in chain. Just something good to keep in mind.
|
# ? May 17, 2017 18:22 |
|
Thinking of setting up zwave switches + zwave dimmable lightbulbs, but I was wondering: Does ST time its signals so that you can turn on the switch, but have the bulbs immediately set to X% brightness when they come on? Or is it like Hue where they come on at maximum brightness. My goal is to set up a motion sensor that dimly turns on the bathroom lights when someone enters the bathroom in the middle of the night so they can peepee without being blinded.
|
# ? May 17, 2017 19:34 |
|
smoobles posted:Thinking of setting up zwave switches + zwave dimmable lightbulbs, but I was wondering: Wink will do that, I assume ST does as well. But why would you not just use a smart dimmer instead of a smart switch and smart bulbs?
|
# ? May 17, 2017 19:40 |
|
spiralbrain posted:Depends on how many devices you have in the chain. I have some production ones here at my job that are the newest like this touchpad one: Yeah, that might be. I don't have too many Z-wave devices. I think the majority are Zigbee.
|
# ? May 17, 2017 20:33 |
|
I've been running smartthings with hue bulbs at my place for a while. Hue bulbs always start at whatever brightness level they were last used and then are adjusted to the set dimmer percentage after they are on. It might be a function of how I set things up, but I don't recall there being an order to the operations that's adjustable. Edit: of note, I have the bulbs connected to the hue hub and then paired through smartthings via an account link. Not sure if that makes a fundamental difference of how the order of operations is executed, but felt it worth mentioning.
|
# ? May 18, 2017 22:51 |
|
Three Olives posted:Wink will do that, I assume ST does as well. But why would you not just use a smart dimmer instead of a smart switch and smart bulbs? My smart dimmers fade up to their brightness target when turned on, and similarly down when turned off. I can probably set the fade interval to 0 with Z-wave programming, but it sounds like you have something else in mind?
|
# ? May 19, 2017 02:07 |
|
Subjunctive posted:My smart dimmers fade up to their brightness target when turned on, and similarly down when turned off. I can probably set the fade interval to 0 with Z-wave programming, but it sounds like you have something else in mind? I misunderstood the question, re-reading I got that you want them not to fade.
|
# ? May 19, 2017 03:08 |
|
Any suggestions for LED bulbs (65-100w equivalent, 2700ish color) that work well with the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer (PD-6WCL)? I've tried several different bulbs in my living room table lamps and each one buzzes no matter the brightness. I've been using the Lutron bulb guide (http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/3682066_CFL_LED_Bulb_list.pdf pages 50-57) but I'm having a hard time finding any non-flood bulbs that have positive reviews. Even the ones they suggest, like http://a.co/2Z8uAEY has user reviews complaining about a buzzing sound. Violator fucked around with this message at 21:28 on May 21, 2017 |
# ? May 21, 2017 21:25 |
|
Violator posted:Any suggestions for LED bulbs (65-100w equivalent, 2700ish color) that work well with the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer (PD-6WCL)? I've tried several different bulbs in my living room table lamps and each one buzzes no matter the brightness. I've been using the Lutron bulb guide (http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/3682066_CFL_LED_Bulb_list.pdf pages 50-57) but I'm having a hard time finding any non-flood bulbs that have positive reviews. I'd recommend using the online bulb compatibility tool, it's updated more frequently than the print reference. http://www.lutron.com/dimcflled If the bulb makes the recommended list, I would feel comfortable using it. There's quite a bit of testing the bulbs go through to be placed on it. The gotchas can be if the manufacturer has made a rolling change that isn't reflected by the part number, or if the bulbs themselves have inconsistent quality.
|
# ? May 21, 2017 22:29 |
|
Violator posted:Any suggestions for LED bulbs (65-100w equivalent, 2700ish color) that work well with the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer (PD-6WCL)? I've tried several different bulbs in my living room table lamps and each one buzzes no matter the brightness. I've been using the Lutron bulb guide (http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/3682066_CFL_LED_Bulb_list.pdf pages 50-57) but I'm having a hard time finding any non-flood bulbs that have positive reviews. I've been using a 4 pack of these with Caseta dimmers no problem: http://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart-60W-Equivalent-Soft-White-A19-Energy-Star-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-4-Pack-A810SS-Q1D-01/206047134 I had the same problem, couldn't find anything on their list.
|
# ? May 23, 2017 01:01 |
|
Jerk McJerkface posted:ugh. This is quite an old post but the reason the light looks like that is because the LED is using PWM to control brightness. It's turning on and off rapidly, but it's doing it slowly enough that it's visible to your eyes. Very annoying and I hate a lot of LED lighting for doing this.
|
# ? May 23, 2017 05:00 |
|
AlexF posted:So ESC 2017 is coming up and I would like to spice up the party by having the Hue lights change to the flag colours of the country that's currently on stage. There's a github link but I have no idea how that stuff works. Does anyone know of an app or something else to make this happen? If I understand what you're asking correctly, this is easy if you can get your hands on the original Hue app (I think you can still download it from itunes https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/philips-hue-gen-1/id557206189?mt=8). Just add the image of the flags into scenes and you should be ready to go. You can probably still do it with the new app but it was kind of a pain in the rear end last time I tried so I just keep using the old one.
|
# ? May 23, 2017 06:06 |
|
TacoHavoc posted:I'd recommend using the online bulb compatibility tool, it's updated more frequently than the print reference. The Electronaut posted:I've been using a 4 pack of these with Caseta dimmers no problem Thanks for the tips, guys. I got some cheap halogens to get the lamps working in the short term. I think I'll pick up a pack of those EcoSmart bulbs and see if they work for me too, and use that online tool to find the other bulbs I need for the recessed outlets I have.
|
# ? May 23, 2017 14:31 |
|
I've got three Cree Connected 60W equivalent bulbs in a ceiling fan light that's on its own single-pole non-dimming switch, all linked up to a Wink Hub 2. Two of the three lights shut off just fine via the Wink app or Alexa, but one bulb just won't shut off fully. It seems to turn off but then immediately come on at a very low setting. This isn't on a dimmer, so I'm not sure what's going on. I'm gonna try to reset that bulb and reconnect it, but I'm open to other ideas
|
# ? May 24, 2017 02:56 |
|
Three Olives posted:Wink will do that, I assume ST does as well. But why would you not just use a smart dimmer instead of a smart switch and smart bulbs? Oh yeah, I forgot smart dimmers exist for a sec. I'm dumb. SmartThings question: Routines make sense, but is there a quick way to set one-off "alarm" actions for devices? I.E. my bedroom lights routine is at 8am, but I may want them to come on at 5am if I'm getting up early for a flight.
|
# ? May 24, 2017 16:28 |
|
For stuff like that I use my phone with Tasker and SharpTools. It could also be done easily with a custom SmartApp and a virtual switch though. If virtual switch "Wakeup Alarm" is turned on then turn on bedroom lights @ 5am. The built-in Smart Lighting doesn't have enough conditions to do it out of the box. To make custom rules, I still use Rule Machine because I got used to it and it does everything I have ever needed so far, but it is no longer being updated. CoRE is the new hotness in this area but I've never checked it out.
|
# ? May 24, 2017 18:26 |
|
Pitre posted:For stuff like that I use my phone with Tasker and SharpTools. It could also be done easily with a custom SmartApp and a virtual switch though. If virtual switch "Wakeup Alarm" is turned on then turn on bedroom lights @ 5am. The built-in Smart Lighting doesn't have enough conditions to do it out of the box. To make custom rules, I still use Rule Machine because I got used to it and it does everything I have ever needed so far, but it is no longer being updated. CoRE is the new hotness in this area but I've never checked it out. Actually CoRE is mostly dead. The newest hotness is webCoRE, which is CoRE but with a way better front end. No more using the SmartThings app to make pistons. It's seriously slick as hell and way more powerful than Rule Machine ever was.
|
# ? May 26, 2017 11:41 |
|
Good to know, I'll check it out!
|
# ? May 26, 2017 19:23 |
|
spiralbrain posted:Depends on how many devices you have in the chain. I have some production ones here at my job that are the newest like this touchpad one: So can you use a phone to unlock this within range or do you need an apple TV to work as the internet connected device? I think I have an apple TV 3 and I have stacks of ipads but they are always dead.
|
# ? May 31, 2017 17:10 |
|
Elephanthead posted:So can you use a phone to unlock this within range or do you need an apple TV to work as the internet connected device? I think I have an apple TV 3 and I have stacks of ipads but they are always dead. Its a zWave lock so any zWave appliance or security panel that supports the zWave protocol should work with it. Schlage makes bluetooth door locks but honestly I find those to be more trouble than they are worth.
|
# ? May 31, 2017 17:14 |
|
I have had my Schlage zwave unit (just like the one above) in for two months now. It's the first in the chain (first device I added and closest to my controller), currently battery shows 98 percent.
|
# ? May 31, 2017 23:12 |
|
Moey posted:I have had my Schlage zwave unit (just like the one above) in for two months now. It's the first in the chain (first device I added and closest to my controller), currently battery shows 98 percent. That model is actually pretty decent. Go with Schlage before Kwikset even for regular locks imo. BTW guys you should be seeing more ZigWave (Zigbee + ZWave) devices here on the horizon if you're into that sort of thing (apparently zigbee is still alive and well!).
|
# ? Jun 1, 2017 18:13 |
|
|
# ? May 14, 2024 16:54 |
|
Any recommendations for a good out door security camera setup especially one that is somewhat clear at night. I read infrared cameras are the way to go. I'm a complete noob so be nice.
|
# ? Jun 1, 2017 19:40 |