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I recently sat in a shitload of new BMWs including the M2 and was surprised that interior-size-wise, it's a 99% carbon copy of my E92.
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Jun 4, 2017 07:22
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Ether Frenzy posted:I recently sat in a shitload of new BMWs including the M2 and was surprised that interior-size-wise, it's a 99% carbon copy of my E92. I think that's the point. Make a performance car using as many parts from the bin as possible.
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Jun 4, 2017 07:32
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Cojawfee posted:I think that's the point. Make a performance car using as many parts from the bin as possible. OR find something that works well and refine it to perfection. Not to be an apologist.
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Jun 4, 2017 17:01
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Mat_Drinks posted:OR find something that works well and refine it to perfection. But it doesn't have a V8 anymore 
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Jun 5, 2017 00:51
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Fo3 posted:From what I know the head unit is just a pre-amp, the amplfier and cross overs are at the back of the car. So if you got a normal head unit you would have to directly wire the high level outputs to each of the speakers, ie couldn't use the factory harness at all, or would need to bypass/disconnect the factory amplifier, supply your own crossovers or replace the speakers, and would lose steering wheel controls. That's what I kinda figured, seems like getting a new working amp brain is the way to go. Thanks!
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Jun 5, 2017 01:06
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Anyone on the UK ever bought anything from JJC race and rally? Freight UK-AU usually much cheaper than US-AU, plus the exchange rate better in the UK. My e34 needs front struts so rather than chuck them onto a USA order I got the actual bilstein part number and searched. JJC r&r can send me a pair for au$325inc.
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Jun 5, 2017 11:10
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Fo3 posted:Anyone on the UK ever bought anything from JJC race and rally? Freight UK-AU usually much cheaper than US-AU, plus the exchange rate better in the UK. Yah. They're a subsidiary of demon tweeks. I use a lot.
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Jun 5, 2017 11:35
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Thank you muchly, I'll go ahead with the order and dig around the site and see if there's anything else I want.
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Jun 5, 2017 12:19
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It's funny watching the prices tumble down on some e30s at the moment. One I never looked at was a bronzit 318 for $5500, I looked at the other one but not this one because it read like it was owned by a tosser and also the a/c was hosed, it's now $4000 ono as the rego has run out. Another was a 325 listed by a dealer 8k, it's now listed at 6990 ono. They paid gumtree extra to list it as "urgent" as the rego runs out in 2 weeks. There's still the same 8k-9k ones up there not doing anything. There's even a hail damaged 323i still up there for 7900 price firm!!11one. The autos are still there for ~5k. A new low KM manual has showed up at a dealer for 5990 None of them has sold except the bronzit 318 I almost bought for 4400, and the white 323i I ran away from due to rust that sold for 3k. E: I still think they are a decent buy at 4-5k if everything is working - a bargain compared to old toyotas, datsuns, mazdas, fords etc Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 16:46
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Long time lurker, first time poster. I've been looking for a fun, semi-project car for a little while and I am considering buying this: http://klasycznysalon.com/auto/bmw-e28-528i/ Went over the car with a trusted mechanic and technically it is in good nick - there are no significant leaks, but I would replace some of the gaskets anyway. The aircon doesn't work that well and the eletric windows stopped working, but the body is totally rust free and only has some fixed damage on the left doors. Is the e28 such a huge money sink? Not planning on daily driving this, and the interior is going to need a little money to get it looking good, however given the condition of the engine it seems like a good buy.
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Jun 6, 2017 11:17
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So, the brown e30 will pull a fender on an S50 swapped e30 and lost by a car to an M62 swapped car. This is with a high compression M52 on S52 cams. Tuned only for M50 manifold - still needs a dyno tune! I think some of the weight reduction I've got is going a long way. I wouldn't be surprised if the car was under 2500lbs
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Jun 6, 2017 19:57
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Cross-posting from my project thread: the place I ordered the Molnar S54 rods from is out of stock, and it appears that everybody (including Molnar) in North America is, too. I'd like to avoid a 3-4wk wait for manufacturing. Anybody have an opinion on the SP S54 rods that VAC carries? Or, anybody know a vendor that actually has stock on the Molnar S54 rods? I can't really justify Arrow or Carrillo rods at their $1,500-$1,900 price point.
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Jun 7, 2017 01:03
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Got to visit the BMW CCA foundation in SC         Also some other misc brodeo photos   
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Jun 7, 2017 01:49
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Jinx posted:Long time lurker, first time poster. I've been looking for a fun, semi-project car for a little while and I am considering buying this: http://klasycznysalon.com/auto/bmw-e28-528i/ If you care about aircon keep in mind e28s use R12 and from what I understand R134 conversion is expensive, if you can even do that anymore.
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Jun 7, 2017 03:07
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 I just found out that I haven't had power steering since I bought my e36 last summer. I just thought it was a bit tougher to steer due to age and / or the car. I actually prefer it the way it is because I like the tension when steering. (I've driven cars with out power steering and they were much more difficult that this)The mechanic that did my pre-inspection apparently missed this (or it started just after) and now my power steering reservoir has been flooded and leaking and my new mechanic is positive that the previous owner didn't use the correct fluid.  I'm just happy outside of this that he said this is one of the best maintained M3s he's seen given the age. So just valve gasket cover, serpentine and power steering. Tho he's not sure what exactly it is. I'm happy to replace all of it so we're starting with the lines and flush. I hope not the pump, but I wonder if I can refurb that myself with new gaskets. I can't wait to see how this car drives with power steering.
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Jun 7, 2017 04:05
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Crustashio posted:If you care about aircon keep in mind e28s use R12 and from what I understand R134 conversion is expensive, if you can even do that anymore. My friend charged his E30 with R152a and it worked fine until the car got written off. I'm not sure if anything needed to be changed besides using different oil, though. He made it sound pretty straightforward.
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Jun 7, 2017 06:19
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My e28 was converted to r134a before I bought it in 2015 It could actually be fine, e28 AC is notorious for being underpowered
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Jun 7, 2017 12:26
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I converted my old e30 to 134a and it worked fine until the ac clutch got smoked when it didn't release at WOT on an onramp.
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Jun 7, 2017 23:17
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My 1992 BMW 735il electrical issues are driving me nuts, and I'm wondering if anyone here has encountered something similar. When I turn on my headlights at night, the Right Rear night-time running tail-light, doesn't illuminate. It's not the bulb, I replaced it. It's not the socket, I replaced it. It's not the tail-light assembly itself as far as I can tell, because all the other lights work fine. I read all the reports of the Mustard Relay failure being responsible for light issues like this. All the indicators fit my situation. I bought the replacement Audi/VW version of the mustard relay that E32 users commonly replace with as a cheaper option than the BMW mustard relay. Here it is-part number 447959875 (electric window control by Hella) It's supposed to serve as a cheaper direct fit.   I noticed that the prongs on the VW version are different than the stock relay that is in the mustard relay's position currently:  Regardless, I gave the replacement relay a shot and nothing changed. Still the same tail-light being inoperative. Here's the board in my 1992 BMW 735il-  And this is the empty spot that I put the new replacement relay in-  Is that even the right spot for the replacement relay?? There's so many different pictures and colors of relays online, it's hard to tell if I'm even using the right relay slot. In any case- the prongs connect and slide in easily enough- just that there's no change in the tail-lights condition, it stays unlit. I'm out of options and at my wit's end here as to how to fix this light myself without having to take it to the shop. I know the Audi/VW replacement part maybe not perfect, so I also ordered the stock OEM BMW expensive part as well. More expensive, but it's in the mail on the way. I really don't see why the VW relay wouldn't work though. I think I'm missing something here. Can anyone please give me some options here as to how I might fix this? Thanks so much for any help.
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Jun 8, 2017 19:03
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If the pin outs on the relay are different, it won't work. That mustard relay pin out looks pretty generic, I think they're common in au for headlights and even aftermarket efi systems for fuel pumps etc. Standard automotive relay looks like this:  sometimes they will have an extra spade in the middle called 87a for normally closed contacts but that's for things that need feedback, not for just switching things on and off. If colonel mustard is the 4 spade relay (ie didn't mix the photos up), it's only a matter of finding out what pin outs you need as they often get jumbled around by various manufacturers. E: 85, 86, 87 and 30 all need to be in the exact same place. You can see from my pic and your pic that the terminals are not in the standard places. At worst you may need to unpick the wires from the plug in base/recepticle and swap them around which isn't a big job but label them first or have a wiring diagram with wire colour codes before you go start unpicking them But first try get one with the same pinout from an autoparts or electronics store. Electronic store might be easier because you may be able to easily browse online catalogues with data. 2e: Actually first job would be checking the coil resistance between 85 and 86 with a multimeter, and then checking if there's power to 30. If that's good maybe there's nothing wrong with the relay? Also I know a few 535i e34 guys have mentioned the wiring loom in the trunk gets broken and causes tail light, license plate light and boot light problems. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jun 8, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 19:29
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Where in the hell do you clip a garage door opener in a Z4? It's distracting on the visor, and the signal is blocked when I keep it in the door pocket. Probably the dumbest question ever asked in this thread. There is zero loving free space in this car.
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Jun 8, 2017 23:51
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Fo3 posted:If the pin outs on the relay are different, it won't work. I've definitely got the pins in the right places at least, I was able to discern that from diagrams. I guess not that it helps, if there's an extra prong fouling it up. Fo3 posted:At worst you may need to unpick the wires from the plug in base/recepticle and swap them around which isn't a big job but label them first or have a wiring diagram with wire colour codes before you go start unpicking them I have been advised to use the electrical manual from https://www.e38.org/e32 and a voltemeter to check out some of this stuff you're speaking of. I've never done anything electrical related with vehicle maintenance before, so I'll explore slowly. This is what the wiring loom looks like:  I inspected them and they seem to be doing okay.
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Jun 9, 2017 00:18
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Lincoln posted:Where in the hell do you clip a garage door opener in a Z4? It's distracting on the visor, and the signal is blocked when I keep it in the door pocket. Probably the dumbest question ever asked in this thread. There is zero loving free space in this car. I clip mine on the visor. Doesn't really bother me there.  Is yours a drop or fixed-head? I think the windshields are identical so it shouldn't matter, but mine's a coupe. Also it probably won't have a garage door opener in it for much longer with the loving project it's turned into
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Jun 9, 2017 00:59
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HandlingByJebus posted:I clip mine on the visor. Doesn't really bother me there. What's the point of spending all that money if you're not going to drive it? 
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Jun 9, 2017 01:48
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Raluek posted:What's the point of spending all that money if you're not going to drive it? Oh, I'll drive it. It just won't have visors, and the garage door opener will be in the truck hauling the trailer.
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Jun 9, 2017 01:57
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Lincoln posted:Where in the hell do you clip a garage door opener in a Z4? It's distracting on the visor, and the signal is blocked when I keep it in the door pocket. Probably the dumbest question ever asked in this thread. There is zero loving free space in this car. I kept mine on the left side of the passenger visor.
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Jun 9, 2017 05:20
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Out of sight. Crackheads love garage door openers, and there's usually a little slip of paper somewhere close that tells them where the garage it opens is.
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Jun 9, 2017 05:25
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FortifiedTumor posted:Hooray, I can finally legally comment in this thread. Picked up the M2 I mentioned a little while ago in this thread. poo poo is beautiful, congrats.
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Jun 9, 2017 09:54
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Powershift posted:Out of sight. You know, I never considered this. I always take my opener with me when I park at the airport, for that exact reason...someone breaks into your car and has access to your entire house while you're on vacation. I suppose it's an everyday possibility now that I drive a convertible. I guess I'll keep it in the central storage compartment when the top's down (it locks when the doors are locked). Glove compartment is actually appropriately named, as that's pretty much all it will hold: a glove. That's why it's not called a gloves compartment.
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Jun 9, 2017 14:52
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You mean the potato box?
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Jun 9, 2017 22:21
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Powershift posted:Out of sight. Bingo. We had a rash of thefts in our neighborhood last summer, a lot of stuff from people going through their garage. We live in what would be considered a "nice" area; and when people have their cars parked in front of their house during the day windows are rolled down and/or not locked and people just swipe the remotes. Come back later at night drive up and down streets pushing every button hoping for a winner. Most garage door openers have a "lock" button that disables the garage. It is part of our nightly routine that we lock both of my garage doors and set the alarms for the cars even parked in the garage. Additionally nice is my cars have the homelink thingies built into the visor/mirror so I don't have a remote in them.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:58
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I saw a 2014 335i xdrive grand tourismo. $30k 18000 miles. What do you guys think? I was looking for a fast wagon but car makers are getting rid of them or they are obscenely expensive, so a 4 door hatchback is the next best thing in theory.
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Jun 10, 2017 05:50
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2 tons of fuckin ugly
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Jun 10, 2017 07:20
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I think the general consensus is "do you live in an area where you need AWD? If not, don't get x-drive."
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Jun 10, 2017 07:23
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The 3 and 5 series GT's should have been aborted on the drawing board. I only believe they made it to production because manufacturers these days just crank out as many models as they can. They're supremely ugly but I guess if you like it, it's your money.
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Jun 10, 2017 12:39
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The proportions do look a bit odd, but my Dad has a 335xi GT, and it works really well as a road trip car. There's definitely more backseat space than my 335 sedan, and you can fit quite a bit in the back. The downsides are that it's nowhere near as sporty, given the longer wheelbase. I'm probably a little biased since I have M Sport brakes, but the stock brakes on the GT are a bit underwhelming. You can fix that with the M Performance brake kit if you're feeling it.
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Jun 10, 2017 14:17
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BraveUlysses posted:2 tons of fuckin ugly If I let ugly stop me from buying a car I wouldn't buy anything made after 1979. Edit Yeah the reviews complained about the breaks in particular. White Phosphorus fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 10, 2017 14:20
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I mean, they still work fine, and my Dad didn't notice until I made him drive my car. The result was I needed to hit his brakes harder, and when he drove my car, we came to a complete and sudden stop.  Driving the two cars back to back is surreal, they're so similar and yet different in just about every way.I think the M Performance set new is ~$1300ish, plus a bit of coding to tell the car it has them.
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Jun 10, 2017 16:44
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White Phosphorus posted:I saw a 2014 335i xdrive grand tourismo. $30k 18000 miles. What do you guys think? I am about to list my 535xiT wagon.... it's a few years older but it's a real wagon!
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Jun 10, 2017 17:06
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http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-bmw-m5-7/ 
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Jun 11, 2017 00:05
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