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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:Thanks for all the brake line suggestions for my Ranger, guys and gals. I may end up making them myself as was suggested because that looks way less expensive than buying them pre-made. Don't worry, this time only your life is dependent on it. 
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Jun 13, 2017 15:44
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Putting HIDs in a halogen reflector housing is a big no, but what about in a halogen projector housing? Is there a difference with the projector lens?
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Jun 13, 2017 16:05
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I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer with only 113k miles on it that has run great for most of its life, but about a year ago it started with some overheating issues. I dealt with all of that at the time, and it's been good up until it recently started overheating while in traffic or idling (not when moving). I'm looking to sell it now but I don't know how much the overheating issue diminishes the value. I already have another car so honestly I'd be happy with anything, I'm just trying to maximize value at this point. My question is, how much of a repair cost would be too much before it's not worth it compared to selling as-is with an overheating issue?
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Jun 13, 2017 18:28
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Teeter posted:I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer with only 113k miles on it that has run great for most of its life, but about a year ago it started with some overheating issues. I dealt with all of that at the time, and it's been good up until it recently started overheating while in traffic or idling (not when moving). I'm looking to sell it now but I don't know how much the overheating issue diminishes the value. I already have another car so honestly I'd be happy with anything, I'm just trying to maximize value at this point. Overheating can be a cheap or expensive fix, depending on the reason. Take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.
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Jun 13, 2017 18:51
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PaintVagrant posted:Overheating can be a cheap or expensive fix, depending on the reason. Take it to a shop and have it diagnosed. I did this morning, I'm waiting to hear what they say and then I've got to decide if it's worth it to fix. What I'm unsure of is how much overheating lowers the value when I toss it up on craigslist. If the mechanic calls me back and says it's a $300 fix, would it add 300 more to my selling price? What about $500? $700? I don't know where I should draw the line.
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Jun 13, 2017 19:05
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I may be an idiot but if someone disclosed in a CL listing that a car had overheating issues I would immediately pass on it unless it was a rare and desirable model. An '04 Lancer is cool and all but. It also suggests that the fix is so expensive or the value is so low the person selling the car decided not to fix before selling, another red flag. Is your trans manual or auto? The Edmunds value seems to be around $2k to 2.5k if it's in clean condition. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 19:09
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Teeter posted:I did this morning, I'm waiting to hear what they say and then I've got to decide if it's worth it to fix. It depends on the buyer, but if you can say "runs and drives great" rather than "runs but overheats", its probably going to make you your $300 dollars back. People who can fix cars will lowball you hard, looking for a cheap fix and flip. People who cant fix cars will run away, more than likely. If this was a $1000 dollar book value car, I would say dont bother but I assume an 04' lancer w/113k miles is worth what...$2-4k?
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Jun 13, 2017 20:09
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FogHelmut posted:Putting HIDs in a halogen reflector housing is a big no, but what about in a halogen projector housing? Is there a difference with the projector lens? In my experience it's still not good, but you're not as rage inducing as the HID in reflector housing. It might be because the internal cutoff shield helps minimize the glare you get, or the scattered light for lighting up signs is scavenged from the otherwise waisted light that falls within the projector housing and that isn't designed to just grab the lowest intensity light off of the filament.
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Jun 13, 2017 20:24
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HID retrofit in halogen projectors is still terrible. Yes they're slightly less blinding, but all of the other problems inherent in retrofits still apply. Mainly, you don't get anywhere close to sufficient beam throw far down the road and in many cases you're lucky to have more than 150' of illumination ahead of your car. That might sound like a lot, but consider at 60 MPH you're covering 88 feet every second - or more than half of the usefully Illuminated road ahead of you, and less than two seconds isn't enough time to react at those speeds much less stop. In addition beam scatter usually results in a very bright field of light right in front of the vehicle which closes down your retinas and reduces night vision, making night driving even more dangerous. Basically there's little to gain from HID retrofits that don't involve replacing the reflector/projector hardware with something intended for HID.
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Jun 13, 2017 22:17
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spankmeister posted:Don't worry, this time only your life is dependent on it. While true, it is also immediately evident if you've hosed up the flare. Most of the time when I do this, it leaks just when bleeding (no real pressure). The few times it doesn't, it will leak with even gentle braking. Bleed the brakes, start the engine to get power assist, then stomp on the brakes HARD a few times. If it's still not leaking then there's really nothing else to go wrong.
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Jun 14, 2017 01:20
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:Thanks for all the brake line suggestions for my Ranger, guys and gals. I may end up making them myself as was suggested because that looks way less expensive than buying them pre-made. The line comes in 25ft lengths or so, so you'll have plenty of extra to practice with. I'm also a godawful plumber, but apparently flares are pretty foolproof by design.
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Jun 14, 2017 01:22
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`Nemesis posted:Often times when one pad is worn out like that but the other is good is due to a stuck caliper. Either the piston sticks or the pins/bolts that hold the caliper together are bound up. That makes sense. How do I go about determining if that is the case and how do I correct it?
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Jun 14, 2017 01:38
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My sister has managed to lose both of the keys to her 2008 Dodge Caliber. I prescribed the usual 24-48 hour waiting period but the key is failing to appear after extensive searching, so it's time to pay out the rear end for new keys at which time the old key will naturally reappear without further wait. I hate that car and have refused to learn anything about it, so what's the best way to go about it? Can the dealer just cut a blank off the VIN or does it have fancy $200 chip poo poo? Can I just install a pushbutton hotwire start because she is guaranteed to lose it again and/or hopefully someone will steal it?
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Jun 14, 2017 02:34
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It's probably going to be a huge hassle trying to circumvent the immobilizer and it will probably void any insurance if they find it.
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Jun 14, 2017 03:34
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Got a battery question: I have a 2017 RAV4 Hybrid. Under the back seat is a 250V NiMH battery string. In the summer (Ohio, it can get rarely up to 100°F) should I always leaves the windows cracked in the car, or am I being way too paranoid?
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Jun 14, 2017 14:31
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Breakfast Feud posted:It's probably going to be a huge hassle trying to circumvent the immobilizer and it will probably void any insurance if they find it. You can't "void" insurance like this in the USA. it's a dumb idea but insurance covers stupidity all the time.
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Jun 14, 2017 14:38
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Three-Phase posted:Got a battery question: They sell them in Saudi Arabia and I bet no-one there would accept a car that needs the windows cracked when parked. http://www.toyota.com.sa/en/vehicles/models/suv/2017/rav4 
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Jun 14, 2017 14:42
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spog posted:They sell them in Saudi Arabia and I bet no-one there would accept a car that needs the windows cracked when parked. drat. Yeah that's a good point there are many places in the US and world that are dramatically hotter... I wonder if there is a way to tap into the CANBUS and pull that data. Also getting the MG stator temperatures would be nice too. I'm assuming that there is at least one RTD buried in the stator windings for the motors Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 15:29
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They have a fan for the hybrid pack IIRC that runs whenever it needs.
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Jun 14, 2017 15:54
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Nimh (or lithium ion) could sit at 130f and not give a poo poo really.
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Jun 14, 2017 16:20
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'99 Subaru Impreza, My AC just started making a weird noise. Sounds like rotation of some sort. Sounds like WOOOoooWOOOooo. It starts within a few seconds of turning AC on, stops as soon as I turn it off. Any suggestions? I'm thinking a bearing or belt.
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Jun 15, 2017 04:36
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Probably a compressor bearing. You can (carefully!) check by getting a long screwdriver, firmly pressing the tip against the housing, and putting your ear against the handle; your makeshift stethoscope will help you pinpoint exactly where it's coming from. Check the compressor, any other accessories on the same belt, tensioner/idler brackets, etc.
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Jun 15, 2017 05:56
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Audi Allroad (2002) that my friend has does somehow gently caress up GPS signal for phones - we have a small buddy sample of iPhones and Androids, and either can only periodically access GPS if the phone is held directly under the windshields, and cannot at all if held normally in any of the passenger seats, or in a holder next to the radio. Any ideas how and why is that so, and if anything can be done about it? My friend says he has some kind of GPS booster from his dad in the glove box, but that does not cut it either.
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Jun 15, 2017 16:19
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Three-Phase posted:drat. Yeah that's a good point there are many places in the US and world that are dramatically hotter... Get a Scangauge-II or an Ultragauge - you can monitor all of that via the OBD port - lots of PIDs are available like battery temperature, inverter temperature, and my favorite - the current to/from the battery.
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Jun 15, 2017 16:26
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cinci zoo sniper posted:Audi Allroad (2002) that my friend has does somehow gently caress up GPS signal for phones - we have a small buddy sample of iPhones and Androids, and either can only periodically access GPS if the phone is held directly under the windshields, and cannot at all if held normally in any of the passenger seats, or in a holder next to the radio. Any ideas how and why is that so, and if anything can be done about it? My friend says he has some kind of GPS booster from his dad in the glove box, but that does not cut it either. It could be the tint. Metallics can mess it up.
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Jun 15, 2017 16:37
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:It could be the tint. Metallics can mess it up.
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Jun 15, 2017 17:08
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2010 Dodge Journey. Been randomly draining the battery if I dont drive it a day. As long as I put a few miles on it, there is no issue. Mechanic says the alternator is dead, so has my car been magically recharging the battery? Can a half dead alternator still work charge the battery but have a diode that is parasitic draining it?
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Jun 15, 2017 17:24
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Athanatos posted:2010 Dodge Journey. Been randomly draining the battery if I dont drive it a day. As long as I put a few miles on it, there is no issue. An open diode can cause the alternator to put out a whacko ac wave. In some cases it can boil the battery - the voltage coming from the alternator can go crazy - above 20v and back to 0 really fast. If you want a second opinion - go to the auto parts store and ask for their free alternator test. Most of the parts stores have the exact same midtronics testers that mechanics have. If it has a bad diode - the printout will say it.
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Jun 15, 2017 17:32
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Athanatos posted:2010 Dodge Journey. Been randomly draining the battery if I dont drive it a day. As long as I put a few miles on it, there is no issue. Perhaps the voltage regulator is cooked. Years ago it was a separate unit, now it's built into the alternator so the whole unit is replaced if either fails since you have to pull the alternator off the car regardless. So the alternator itself may be fine, but the VR is leaking away current.
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Jun 15, 2017 17:32
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Thanks for everyone's help pages and pages ago! I finally replaced my front bearings and the mystery squeak went away... Now I just need new struts and tires too 😑
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Jun 15, 2017 17:33
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Enourmo posted:Probably a compressor bearing. You can (carefully!) check by getting a long screwdriver, firmly pressing the tip against the housing, and putting your ear against the handle; your makeshift stethoscope will help you pinpoint exactly where it's coming from. Check the compressor, any other accessories on the same belt, tensioner/idler brackets, etc. Thanks. I'll check the tensioners since one of them loosened itself a few months ago. Past that I'll just have to take it to the mechanic. Am I right in thinking I don't want to do a ton of driving with the AC on for now?
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Jun 15, 2017 18:21
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Deteriorata posted:Perhaps the voltage regulator is cooked. Years ago it was a separate unit, now it's built into the alternator so the whole unit is replaced if either fails since you have to pull the alternator off the car regardless. So the alternator itself may be fine, but the VR is leaking away current. 0toShifty posted:An open diode can cause the alternator to put out a whacko ac wave. In some cases it can boil the battery - the voltage coming from the alternator can go crazy - above 20v and back to 0 really fast. Thank you both for your time. Hopefully it is just the alternator being weird. I know Dodges have weird electric problems sometimes. Much love.
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Jun 15, 2017 19:04
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Anyone familiar with Honda heating problems? A while back I purchased a 2010 Honda Civic and It's recently had some issues overheating. It seems to only occur when the AC is on; if I have the heat on blast and the windows down the temp goes back down to normal. I feel like it may be a problem with the Water Pump or temperature Guage but I don't know if there's any obvious visual way to tell if i'm off the mark. Engine temp also goes up more slowly when heat is off but no AC. I should probably just take it to a shop but if I could just buy the part from the auto store and pay a mobile mechanic to swap it I'd prefer to do that since money's kinda tight.
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Jun 16, 2017 02:51
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Bedlam posted:Anyone familiar with Honda heating problems? A while back I purchased a 2010 Honda Civic and It's recently had some issues overheating. It seems to only occur when the AC is on; if I have the heat on blast and the windows down the temp goes back down to normal. I feel like it may be a problem with the Water Pump or temperature Guage but I don't know if there's any obvious visual way to tell if i'm off the mark. Engine temp also goes up more slowly when heat is off but no AC. The first thing I would do is investigate what the radiator fan(s?) is/are doing with and without the A/C on. Normally, the fan will be on a low speed as it gets warm, then kick on high at a higher set point, and also anytime the A/C is on. Sometimes it's two separate fans, sometimes it's a low/high setting on just one fan. It could be that the "high" fan/setting doesn't work, so when you turn the A/C on it thinks it's kicking the fan on high but it's actually just shutting off because only the low works. Might not be your issue, but it's easy to check out and def worth a look.
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Jun 16, 2017 06:25
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Raluek posted:The first thing I would do is investigate what the radiator fan(s?) is/are doing with and without the A/C on. Normally, the fan will be on a low speed as it gets warm, then kick on high at a higher set point, and also anytime the A/C is on. Sometimes it's two separate fans, sometimes it's a low/high setting on just one fan. It could be that the "high" fan/setting doesn't work, so when you turn the A/C on it thinks it's kicking the fan on high but it's actually just shutting off because only the low works. Thanks for the advice, I'll check it out this weekend when i have more time to check.
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Jun 16, 2017 13:15
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Expanding on the above, does it overheat if you're moving at a decent speed (say, above 40 MPH) or only at low speed/sitting still? Radiator fans do most of the work while stopped or at low speeds, but once you're moving reasonably fast air gets pushed through the radiator with or without the fans running. If it only happens when stopped or driving slowly you probably have a fan problem.
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Jun 16, 2017 18:19
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The first thing I'd do is check the coolant level.
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Jun 16, 2017 19:42
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I have a 1998 Lexus SC300 that I inherited from my Grandfather. It has a piece of door molding on the passenger side that is falling off because most of the clips are broken.Does anyone know where I can find Toyota/Lexus clips like this? The square portion of the clip that fits into the molding is 19mmx20mm.  This is the area where the trim goes. It takes 6 of these clips, then 1 clip with a 8mm nut and another with a 10mm nut. If anyone knows the part number for the 10mm nutted clip that would be great too.
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Jun 17, 2017 01:23
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Anyone have an idea about how difficult it'd be to replace struts on a 2006 AWD Toyota Matrix? The shop my wife and I use regularly quote around 5 hours for the labor at a rate of around $75/hr. I'd happily take the time to do the work if it's, let's say, average difficulty for a bolt on, bolt off type amateur mechanic like me. If it's a kick in the dick (5 hours makes me think it'll be a bit of a pain, but I've never touched anything that affects ride quality other than ball joints) I'll just let the pros take care of it. It's a winter beater that's got a case of the shakes, so I've got plenty of time before it's a daily driver again.
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Jun 17, 2017 03:54
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I just bought a beater truck and I'm turgid with wrenching anticipation. It's a 247,000 mile 2001 Silverado 1500 2WD/5.3L, with a bent inner tie rod and a leaking steering rack. I see I can get a reman rack for about $140 after core return online, so I'm going to order one and tie rod ends, plus new upper/lower control arm bushing and ball joints. Anything else I should swap out while I'm in there? Shocks? I assume anything rubber is garbage at 247k. and I'm going to have to get it aligned so I might as well go for it.Eat This Glob posted:Anyone have an idea about how difficult it'd be to replace struts on a 2006 AWD Toyota Matrix? The shop my wife and I use regularly quote around 5 hours for the labor at a rate of around $75/hr. I'd happily take the time to do the work if it's, let's say, average difficulty for a bolt on, bolt off type amateur mechanic like me. If it's a kick in the dick (5 hours makes me think it'll be a bit of a pain, but I've never touched anything that affects ride quality other than ball joints) I'll just let the pros take care of it. It's a winter beater that's got a case of the shakes, so I've got plenty of time before it's a daily driver again. I don't have Matrx specific knowledge but I've done struts. They aren't particularly hard if you're fortunate like me and live someplace rust free. It's always been bolt on-bolt off but if you have rusty hardware and you're using a limited tool set it could suck. Compressing coil springs can be kind of sketchy too, depending on the model of car but if you're careful and have a compressor with lock pins it's safe. This video (youtube) goes over the procedure, and it looks pretty straight forward to me. Rears are probably the same with more interior clips. But you did say winter beater so it might be a lot of dickpain.
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Jun 17, 2017 06:18
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Boys who love boys