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SlayVus posted:Can I get some ideas on what's causing these issues? I built a Prusa i3 MK2 printer this Monday and Tuesday, the self test shows X and Y are perpendicular and I ran the V2 Calibration and did my Live Z. I'm getting uniform, flat first layers. Kinda looks like temperature problems -- are you using prusa slic3r with one of the stock filament profiles?
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Jul 20, 2017 18:05
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I haven't been following the thread, but I wanna throw a huge shout out to Matterhackers and MatterControl for my printrbot. Printrbot has kind of abandoned the simple metal, and they recommended Cura. The newest Cura versions haven't been supporting Printrbot, and removed the Pronterface interface which allowed you to manually control certain aspects of temperature, hotend position, as well as Gcode. MatterControl's free program has been working awesome and you can use Cura as a silcer. After using MatterControl, I'm probably not going to go back to Cura.
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Jul 20, 2017 20:59
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I've never liked Cura much, personally. Slic3r + Repetier-Host all the way, except for a dark period when Slic3r had serious bugs in every version that included the features I needed, but now PrusaSlic3r is here to save the day and everything is good again.
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Jul 20, 2017 21:42
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ASSTASTIC posted:I haven't been following the thread, but I wanna throw a huge shout out to Matterhackers and MatterControl for my printrbot. Printrbot has kind of abandoned the simple metal, and they recommended Cura. The newest Cura versions haven't been supporting Printrbot, and removed the Pronterface interface which allowed you to manually control certain aspects of temperature, hotend position, as well as Gcode. MatterControl's free program has been working awesome and you can use Cura as a silcer. After using MatterControl, I'm probably not going to go back to Cura. You're insane and everything you've posted here is wrong.
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Jul 20, 2017 21:42
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You're insane and everything you've posted here is wrong. K. Just my experience with their program. poo poo works for me, and Cura been a huge pain in the rear end since they took the pronterface interface out. Also, I think I was using Slic3r during their dark period because I couldn't get their poo poo to work at all. ASSTASTIC fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jul 20, 2017 |
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Jul 20, 2017 23:39
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CRIP EATIN BREAD posted:Just coming in to say I like my Anet A8, except when I ordered it, they didn't drill all the necessary holes in the back plate that were needed, and so I had to drill those myself. Buyer beware. Chiming in again, printed about 6-7 parts, the thing started smoking, the power inputs started to melt, board is hosed. Typical china bullshit.
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Jul 21, 2017 06:29
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CRIP EATIN BREAD posted:Chiming in again, printed about 6-7 parts, the thing started smoking, the power inputs started to melt, board is hosed. Typical china bullshit. Use the parts for a mk2 clone
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Jul 21, 2017 18:26
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The OP hasn't been updated in 5 years , lol. Whats the best 3d printer for a budget of around 2 grand? I didn't find this thread till today, but a couple weeks ago I made something for my 32-year old ATV: Plastic reinforcements!     
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Jul 21, 2017 19:35
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Good job figuring out a way to use a Makerbot to actually make something useful.
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Jul 21, 2017 19:52
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ha a lot of people say I'm the first one they've seen use a printer for something practical  Hope it holds up OK, but I really think it will
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Jul 21, 2017 20:00
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CloFan posted:The OP hasn't been updated in 5 years , lol. Whats the best 3d printer for a budget of around 2 grand? I've only used the n2 and n2 plus, but the raise3d n1 might be something you're interested in.
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Jul 21, 2017 20:05
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CloFan posted:ha a lot of people say I'm the first one they've seen use a printer for something practical I just printed a bracket for my ring doorbell because I don't have a flat place to mount mine. I have wood siding that is too small for the ring, but I 3d printed a bracket that will hold it in a perfect angle and flat. I did have to make adjustments to the design from thingiverse though.
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Jul 21, 2017 22:16
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CloFan posted:ha a lot of people say I'm the first one they've seen use a printer for something practical The people you talk to really haven't spent much time looking at the really impressive projects people use 3d printers to help them build.
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Jul 21, 2017 22:21
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CloFan posted:The OP hasn't been updated in 5 years , lol. Whats the best 3d printer for a budget of around 2 grand? Get a Prusa i3 Mk2S. Reliable, easy to use, good customer support and big enough for most projects.
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Jul 21, 2017 22:47
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CloFan posted:ha a lot of people say I'm the first one they've seen use a printer for something practical Is that a suspension mount, or what? What kind of forces will it see? What material is it made of? I find that 3D printed parts in high-stress situations either (a) last far longer than you'd expect, or (b) completely wreck themselves as soon as they're loaded.
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Jul 21, 2017 22:58
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Megabound posted:Get a Prusa i3 Mk2S. Reliable, easy to use, good customer support and big enough for most projects. For 2 grand he can get 2 MK2S printers with the Multi-Material Upgrade.
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Jul 21, 2017 23:38
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biracial bear for uncut posted:For 2 grand he can get 2 MK2S printers with the Multi-Material Upgrade. But it'll take 2 months before he'll receive either printer and he won't get the multi material upgrade until 2018. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 01:27
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Sagebrush posted:Is that a suspension mount, or what? What kind of forces will it see? What material is it made of? looks like it's just holding the trim up?
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Jul 22, 2017 01:40
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The people you talk to really haven't spent much time looking at the really impressive projects people use 3d printers to help them build. You are correct. I guess the qualifier is "in person" although I'm also in an area where this kind of tech is just starting to become more common. Sagebrush posted:Is that a suspension mount, or what? What kind of forces will it see? What material is it made of? Sup sage, still got your CL350? Not a whole lot of force here, it's just the primary point where the plastic meets the frame. The rubber part takes the vibrations out, the reinforcement will prevent the damaged side from breaking further. It most likely originally broke because the PO hit something, not because of riding forces. The print is whatever PLA the professor had in his machine, nothing special. At 2mm thick it was plenty sturdy, though.
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Jul 22, 2017 03:07
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CloFan posted:The OP hasn't been updated in 5 years , lol. Whats the best 3d printer for a budget of around 2 grand? if anyone has a burning desire to write a new OP / start a new thread with said OP i'd be more than happy to push the relevant buttons
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Jul 22, 2017 03:24
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I got a Monoprice Mini V2 to play with, and have been trying to get it to work right with some Inland PETG. I've made a handful of testcats okay, but when trying to do other stuff the initial layer is always a stringy nasty bit of work. I can't quite seem to get what I'm pretty sure is height dialed in. Anyone have tips for PETG in paticular? PETG seems like a great material, but it's kinda annoying, and not as common so 95% of the advice doesn't apply. E: Okay, I apparently have some fundamental issue I'm missunderstanding or loving up. I set the bed height to .15 mm from the nozzle. A sheet and a half of paper basically. That first layer I'm printing now is just balling up around the nozzle. I kill the power and measure the gap. .50 mm. WTF. That's almost more than the layer height and first layer height combined. This is why my makerfarm is collecting dust. I for some godforsaken reason can not figure out this bed height poo poo. I'm either cursed or brain damaged. PirateDentist fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 08:12
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Check your starting height. Sounds like your z axis is set too high in the software.
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Jul 22, 2017 09:10
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tuyop posted:A PVA glue stick ironically reduces adhesion on PEI, apparently. Apply when cold. You were right! I put down a thin watered-down PVA layer and ABG stuck and came off with only a mild fight (no tools required). The surface of all the parts was rather sticky so it seemed that the ABS sticks to the PVA but the PVA doesn't stick so well to the PEI? To test the longevity of this surface treatment I printed a second copy of the same thing in the same place on the bed. It stuck much more firmly and required tools to remove, although the part was still usable and still had a slightly tacky surface. I'm worried about it wearing off completely, I don't want to have to prep my bed several times a day between prints, but there does appear to be a good amount of merit to this solution and I am going to continue to experiment with it to see how it can work best for me. Thanks for the idea!
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Jul 22, 2017 12:15
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PirateDentist posted:E: Okay, I apparently have some fundamental issue I'm missunderstanding or loving up. I set the bed height to .15 mm from the nozzle. A sheet and a half of paper basically. That first layer I'm printing now is just balling up around the nozzle. I kill the power and measure the gap. .50 mm. WTF. That's almost more than the layer height and first layer height combined. This is why my makerfarm is collecting dust. I for some godforsaken reason can not figure out this bed height poo poo. I'm either cursed or brain damaged. Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Check your starting height. Sounds like your z axis is set too high in the software. Also do your bed levelling with the bed heated to printing temp
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Jul 22, 2017 16:30
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Where do you measure your z-height from? Is it an offboard limit switch or some kind of sensor over the bed?
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Jul 22, 2017 20:29
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Sagebrush posted:Where do you measure your z-height from? Is it an offboard limit switch or some kind of sensor over the bed? Prusa has you sticking a zip tie under the pinda probe and manually adjusting it.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:18
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I'm going to do a kit build methinks. Are the prusa i3's genercised enough that pretty much all of them are good. If not is there any eBay sellers or key words I should be on the lookout for? Esit: forgive my pants on head retarded question, I will research more Jestery fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 08:01
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I'm trying to build this Rick Portal Gun from thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1743616 The knob from the files, in both Slic3r and Simplify 3D, produce unusable GCode.
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Jul 23, 2017 11:36
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CRIP EATIN BREAD posted:Chiming in again, printed about 6-7 parts, the thing started smoking, the power inputs started to melt, board is hosed. Typical china bullshit. Had mine for a couple of months now and it's been fine, hooked it into a octopi rig and I'm putting in a few mosfets when I find time. The main problem with China stuff is quality control, guess I got lucky (so far).
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Jul 23, 2017 14:49
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SlayVus posted:I'm trying to build this Rick Portal Gun from thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1743616 The knob from the files, in both Slic3r and Simplify 3D, produce unusable GCode.
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Jul 23, 2017 15:25
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Thanks for the recommendation on printers; I really like the Prusa i3, and I don't mind waiting a couple months for delivery.
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Jul 23, 2017 15:47
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Jestery posted:I'm going to do a kit build methinks. I assume you're talking about Prusa clones? No, I wouldn't say they are all equal.The frame material varies, for one. I wouldn't trust anything that isn't built out of a solid metal frame, otherwise you might run across issues. My printer is a kit, Makerfarm Pegasus 10. Frame is built out of aluminum V-Slot linear rails. Heated bed, real E3D hotend, and you can add upgrades like LCD display, Titan extruder, and better Z-axis lead screws.
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Jul 23, 2017 17:27
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Revol posted:I assume you're talking about Prusa clones? No, I wouldn't say they are all equal.The frame material varies, for one. I wouldn't trust anything that isn't built out of a solid metal frame, otherwise you might run across issues. A bit of research today found me a cr10 for under 500au shipped so I'm getting that. More bigger more better right? I'm very excited to get better at fusion 360, I've scratched the surface in a few afternoons but it's a very cathartic thing to my spergy brain
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Jul 23, 2017 21:38
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The CR-10 seems really good, even Tom seems impressed with it and he seems to hate anet / tevo e: Seems like I like the word "seems"
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Jul 23, 2017 21:42
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mewse posted:The CR-10 seems really good, even Tom seems impressed with it and he seems to hate anet / tevo I read somewhere there is a dual y-axis screw version coming; honestly with what I've read and seen, I can deal with it. Side note, the level of tism on some 3d printing channels on YouTube is amazing. That Aussie bloke with black hair is a special kinda special
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Jul 23, 2017 21:45
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Jestery posted:I read somewhere there is a dual y-axis screw version coming; honestly with what I've read and seen, I can deal with it. Beware of gearbest if you are ordering from them. They often say they have it in stock but then tell you it will be a month or two before they can ship. Also, I think you can get the dual y-axis mod upgrade from tinymachines. jubjub64 fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 22:15
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jubjub64 posted:Beware of gearbest if you are ordering from them. They often say they have it in stock but then tell you it will be a month or two before they can ship. I have heard about that from gearbest, I'm ordering from fasttech, they seem to review well enough and I'm paying via PayPal.
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Jul 23, 2017 22:34
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Jestery posted:That Aussie bloke with black hair is a special kinda special Yeah Angus from Maker's Muse, I don't like that guy
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Jul 23, 2017 23:10
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CapnBry posted:You can upload the file to https://service.netfabb.com/ and have it repaired for free. I just tried it and it produced an STL that worked properly in Slic3r. Thanks for the reply. I'll try it out. Hopefully with a new OP we can get a list of resources like this.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:12
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mewse posted:Yeah Angus from Maker's Muse, I don't like that guy Most of his videos are a cam on a tripod pointed at his dumb face while he describes things he should be showing. It's infuriating. Tom and CnC Kitchen are great tho.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:53
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