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XYLOPAGUS posted:grabbing some Sport Demons and calling it good I had two sets of sport demons on my ninjette and consider it to be one one of the best tires I've ever used. They work amazing in wet or dry, feel great when you are pushing hard, and last forever. I seriously got over 8k out of mine, most of it slabbing it with luggage on the back. They are slightly larger than stock, which I think looks cool, but ymmv. Z3n posted:Use the Michelin pilot street on your 250. Normally I love Michelin in cars and bikes, but I found the pilot streets to be very mediocre on my WR250x.
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Jul 22, 2017 09:03
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Are there any bikes other than 125s that have identical tyres (albeit different/reversed tread patterns) front and rear? I have this vague impression that fat tyres have greater load capacity (whether that's speed/acceleration/luggage/whatever) and thinner tyres turn in faster which is why bigger road bikes generally get asymmetric tyres, but has any manufacturer ever said "gently caress it, max production economy go" and pushed out a middleweight commuter with just one kind of tyre? I don't actually want to buy this thing (if it even exists, and if it does I'm sure it's more likely to be some kind of maxi scooter), I'm just curious if it's ever been done.
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Jul 22, 2017 09:45
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I don't think any bikes have identical tires front and rear anymore except some scooters. Which 125s have it? I haven't seen a bike with same F/R since my 1956 BMW, and even then you can run a wider rear if you want. Even 60s/70s bikes have wider rears. I will say from experience on racing a 50cc that if your bike weighs nothing and makes no power, you basically don't need any tire. I run on 2.25 and 2.50-18 tires on that thing and they are more than enough. It leans quite far over without issues and can brake like crazy poo poo without the front end slipping at all.
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Jul 22, 2017 14:09
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Z3n posted:Use the Michelin pilot street on your 250. I don't think those come in 16 inch. I went with the Kenda 671 because they're cheap as gently caress, otherwise I'd do the Sport Demons. Here's a long list of options, I'm not sure if they're all still available. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_tire_makes_are_available_that_fit_the_250%3F
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Jul 22, 2017 16:03
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BT45s are the gold standard of 16" mini moto racing
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Jul 22, 2017 16:29
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Oh I forgot I had asked someone else and they recommended the stones. Good price too, $230 for the set on motorcycle superstore.
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Jul 22, 2017 18:44
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Welp, found the culprit for my clutch issue: This is a kind of diaphragm thing right where the slave mates to the clutch. As soon as I pulled the slave off it just poured clutch fluid out. The best part is, a replacement isn't available separately from a whole new $170 slave. 
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Jul 22, 2017 18:49
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 How cooked are these? They're not going to make it 4,000 miles are they. The tire thread has been idle for a while. Any recommendations for a set of SMT tires, mainly for commuting with decent wet grip?
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Jul 22, 2017 19:37
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Koruthaiolos posted:Welp, found the culprit for my clutch issue: The part #s for the clutch slave on KTM's 690 and Husqvarna's 701 are so close that I'd be willing to bet they're the same. For some reason there is an additional part showing on the KTM fiche, 59032066000 "piston + o-ring + ball 27mm", with the o-ring looking very much like what your picture shows. It does not show up in the Husqvarna fiche. Revvik posted:
That's a wear bar showing so yeah, 4,000 miles isn't in your future. Pilot Road 4s - I like the Pirelli Angel GTs too. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 20:16
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Revvik posted:
I like the PR4's on my 701, but whatever the Conti sport touring tire is just won a test in the motorcycle magazine I read.
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Jul 22, 2017 20:20
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Jazzzzz posted:The part #s for the clutch slave on KTM's 690 and Husqvarna's 701 are so close that I'd be willing to bet they're the same. For some reason there is an additional part showing on the KTM fiche, 59032066000 "piston + o-ring + ball 27mm", with the o-ring looking very much like what your picture shows. It does not show up in the Husqvarna fiche. Which KTM model do you see that on? the 2017 690 enduro and duke both have the same fiche as the 701 which don't show that. It would be awesome if that works.
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Jul 22, 2017 20:21
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It was an older US model 690 SMC, 2010 I think. The drawings of the clutch slave in the diagrams were at different angles, part #s were off by the first 3 digits which I assumed may have just been KTM vs. Husky, but if the late model KTM enduros have the same fiche and part #s I'm probably wrong
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Jul 22, 2017 21:25
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Jazzzzz posted:The part #s for the clutch slave on KTM's 690 and Husqvarna's 701 are so close that I'd be willing to bet they're the same. For some reason there is an additional part showing on the KTM fiche, 59032066000 "piston + o-ring + ball 27mm", with the o-ring looking very much like what your picture shows. It does not show up in the Husqvarna fiche. Thanks for the recommendations. The front is equally hosed so I'm going to grab a set, probably the Pirellis, and order poo poo to change the oil, flush the coolant (going to the desert yay), and idk. Brakes and chain look great at least.
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Jul 22, 2017 21:37
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Metzler Roadtec 01s are decent too.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:40
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I don't think any bikes have identical tires front and rear anymore except some scooters. Which 125s have it? I haven't seen a bike with same F/R since my 1956 BMW, and even then you can run a wider rear if you want. Even 60s/70s bikes have wider rears. My 08 CBR125 had identical front and rear, as does the CBF125.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:48
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Pirellis ordered. Front stand ordered. Oil, filter, coolant. Next weekend off will be spent doing that. And as it relates to my other project: $300 in assorted parts, bearings, sprocket, and new chain to fit the GS500 wheels on the DRZ. I'll need to order tires for that as well though. Should probably rip that bandaid off soon but I would like to get the wheels fitted before I get them powder coated, and coated before spending more money on tires
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Jul 23, 2017 01:07
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Oh I forgot I had asked someone else and they recommended the stones. Good price too, $230 for the set on motorcycle superstore. Forgot that the guy I use for mounting tires also stocks tires. He carried sport demons in the pre gen sizes so I got a set for $245 plus $20 per wheel to mount and balance. Woot for new tires in one Saturday.
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Jul 23, 2017 01:56
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Koruthaiolos posted:Welp, found the culprit for my clutch issue: Did you see this ? http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/husqvarna-701-super-moto-and-enduro.1086621/page-300
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Jul 23, 2017 02:57
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http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?98090-Leaking-Clutch-Slave-at-6000-miles as well Still the same slave, apparently KTM stopped selling that ball/o ring kit separately (WTF) Before you drop $170 on an OEM part that obviously has issues get an Oberon clutch slave for less instead: http://www.rottweilerperformance.com/oberon-billet-clutch-slave-cylinder-690-701/ Do NOT use DOT 4.1 fluid in your clutch, that Magura unit uses mineral oil
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Jul 23, 2017 05:06
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where can I get the allen key used to replace toe sliders on alpinestar smx-1 r boots? I noticed mine are getting pretty worn. I checked the box they came in and there isnt any tool.
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Jul 23, 2017 07:21
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Fauxtool posted:where can I get the allen key used to replace toe sliders on alpinestar smx-1 r boots? I noticed mine are getting pretty worn. I checked the box they came in and there isnt any tool. Is it a peculiar shape or a regular hexagon? If you don't own a set of hex wrenches you can probably take the boot into an ACE store, explain to the people what you're looking for, and they'll help you find the right size. It's not a bad idea to have a full set of keys onhand for working on your bike anyhow, depending on how they put your bike together.
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Jul 23, 2017 08:09
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Fauxtool posted:where can I get the allen key used to replace toe sliders on alpinestar smx-1 r boots? I noticed mine are getting pretty worn. I checked the box they came in and there isnt any tool. If it's like the ones on my Dainese boots, it's a standard metric key, around 2-3mm. Any set of them should include it. e: yep, 2.5mm
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Jul 23, 2017 08:15
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 Just got this DR650 rack and want to engine enamel it plum purple to match my frame. First, I assume I need to clear away this surface corrosion in a few spots. Will wire brush to remove all visible stuff be enough before I spray it down? BONUS EX250 Question I really hope you peeps can help with: My friend bought a nightmare of an EX250 for his fiance to learn on. She is really eager to get riding, but the ninjette is doing some weird things and she is very discouraged and not getting seat time. I really want to find the solution to this so she won't lose interest in riding. Symptoms: Runs fine in the twisties, pulls well, starts fine, until you are cruising for a bit at partial throttle and constant speed. This can be replicated as it does it several times an hour, especially on the highway. When at steady throttle, the engine starts to cut out, then slowly bogs out and dies. To get it running again, my friend does the usual "mess with it" things we all do when our bike strands us. Eventually it will restart with choke full on, it accelerates in spurts, and he can get it riding, and then slowly turn off the choke and it's fine until the next time it dies. Troubleshoots fixes he has done so far with no fix (usually multiple times: -changed spark plugs -changed gas in tank -cleaned carbs -adjusted carbs -sync'd carbs -adjusted valves -checked intake was clean -checked petcock was working -added inline fuel filter -replaced battery -checked fuses Still having the same problems. I'm really hoping one of you has an idea. I suspect it could be a bad coil, but I'm not sure about that.
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Jul 25, 2017 18:39
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Coydog posted:
I like your style
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Jul 25, 2017 19:20
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Sounds more like fueling. Does the bike have a fuel pump? Just how clean did the carbs get cleaned, and how were they adjusted? My first thought would be that they're not truly clean unless they were dipped and the pilot/main circuits poked out with a wire. As for adjusted, were the float heights set properly?
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Jul 25, 2017 19:20
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Possible the fuel line is getting kinked somewhere? Can't hurt to replace it if you didn't already when you added the fuel filter
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Jul 25, 2017 19:25
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Is he sure it's not the float bowls? You ride for a bit and then you run out of gas because they're not refilling properly. Also make sure the petcock is clean and fuel is flowing to the float bowls. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Sounds more like fueling. Does the bike have a fuel pump? Agree it sounds a like float height (or getting fuel to float bowl) problem. But, wtf do I know? Either way, it looks like he can just ebay a new carb for $130 so if all else fails that's what I'd recommend. Really, he shouldn't waste time making his SO ride a bike that's frustrating if she wants to ride. His life will be way more than $130 better if she likes riding and wants to do it with him.
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Jul 25, 2017 19:32
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Chichevache posted:I like your style  HenryJLittlefinger posted:Sounds more like fueling. Does the bike have a fuel pump? No fuel pump, and the petcock is working correctly. I wasn't there when they were cleaned and adjusted, but knowing him they were thoroughly cleaned/soaked/wire brushed. And he did it multiple times. Worth noting that the bike has a pair of yoshi slip ons, but no other mods. Not sure how that would affect things. He would have adjusted based on recommended settings, I believe. Jazzzzz posted:Possible the fuel line is getting kinked somewhere? Can't hurt to replace it if you didn't already when you added the fuel filter We checked this and it was clear. :/ builds character posted:Is he sure it's not the float bowls? You ride for a bit and then you run out of gas because they're not refilling properly. Also make sure the petcock is clean and fuel is flowing to the float bowls. Why do you all think it's floats? Would this problem not show up under hard riding if it was floats? Just showing up on steady riding? I'm going to pass this info on, and also recommend he pick up a new carb, if you all think it's a carb issue. Thanks so much for all the quick responses!
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Jul 25, 2017 20:00
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Or if he wants to ditch carbs and spend 50% of the bike's value on FI: http://www.ecotrons.com/products/kawasaki_ninja_250cc_fuel_injection_kit/
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Jul 25, 2017 20:05
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remove the inline filter and pull the petcock and check the internal filter
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Jul 25, 2017 20:08
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Coydog posted:
It's the floats or the tank vent is blocked, or the petcock is clogged inside the tank.
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Jul 25, 2017 20:28
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Coydog posted:
1. How do you know the petcock is working correctly? Did he try disconnecting the fuel line from the carb and seeing if he had a good fuel flow from the tank? 2. It sounds like he's running out of gas. If you're doing twisties or other hard riding you tend (at least I do) to go hard on the throttle and then back off so that if you just had a minor issue with flow you'd be able to fill the float bowl back up whereas when you're steadily using fuel for a long(ish) time it just can't keep up and you end up running out of gas until you eventually have to stop and let the float bowl slowly fill up again. 3. Does the bike otherwise run smoothly? No weird bogging or lack of power when you open the throttle? Not hard to start, etc? What did the plugs look like when he replaced them? EX250 Type R posted:remove the inline filter and pull the petcock and check the internal filter I would try this. Slavvy posted:It's the floats or the tank vent is blocked, or the petcock is clogged inside the tank. Oh yeah, definitely check the tank vent! If you get a vacuum in the tank that will stop fuel from going into the carb and that would be, you know, generally bad.
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Jul 25, 2017 20:33
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Coydog posted:
The needle valves and floats produce similar to identical symptoms when either is not working quite right. Correlary: one of the two not working right will affect the other. My reasoning: the throttle range you describe for the issue is probably where the bike spends most of its time, just putting along during commuting or whatever. In that range, the flow through the bowls would be a consistent trickle, so the floats wouldn't be moving much, in turn keeping the needle valve within a very small range of its travel in the emulsion tube. That in turn could create a sticky zone which the minimal outflow of fuel may not be enough to drop the floats to the point that the needle valve opens adequately for fuel inflow to keep up. That's the needle valve answer. The solution is to put in new needle valves every time the carbs are serviced. They're probably pretty cheap for the Ninjette. Incorrectly adjusted floats (and most are set low in the factory so the bike will run lean because EPA) may just not be opening the needle valve enough in that throttle range for fuel inflow to keep up with outflow. Have him test the theory by dropping a gear and maintaining the same speed for a while but with more throttle. Bench setting of float heights is pretty simple. Just involves a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the tangs and a caliper to measure in the correct place. The Ninjette wiki probably has the specs available.
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Jul 25, 2017 20:43
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EX250s have something called a coasting enricher system. It's the small apparatus in the lower left corner of the picture in this link, with the "B" "C" and "D" labels in close proximity to each other: http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b267ff8700223e4790680/carburetor I know you said he cleaned the carbs, but maybe he didn't clean this part, or the diaphragm there has a tear.
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Jul 26, 2017 00:59
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Any F4i owners wanna chime in on what oil they've used? I bought HP4 for the first oil change, but Rotella T6 has been suggested by several people on Honda forums and it'd be much more convenient as I also run it in my car.
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Jul 26, 2017 15:05
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Fifty Three posted:Any F4i owners wanna chime in on what oil they've used? I bought HP4 for the first oil change, but Rotella T6 has been suggested by several people on Honda forums and it'd be much more convenient as I also run it in my car. Don't fall in this trap, thread!! Pull up!!
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Jul 26, 2017 15:26
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Slide Hammer posted:EX250s have something called a coasting enricher system. It's the small apparatus in the lower left corner of the picture in this link, with the "B" "C" and "D" labels in close proximity to each other: http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b267ff8700223e4790680/carburetor Always wondered what that thing was on my ex250. Thanks for this. Also those are some weird symptoms but I'd agree with the peeps here. It's either the float needle valve or your petcock is clogged. Edit: Float height should be around 17mm.
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Jul 26, 2017 15:43
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Fifty Three posted:Any F4i owners wanna chime in on what oil they've used? I bought HP4 for the first oil change, but Rotella T6 has been suggested by several people on Honda forums and it'd be much more convenient as I also run it in my car. T6 is the nectar of the gods
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Jul 26, 2017 16:19
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Fifty Three posted:Any F4i owners wanna chime in on what oil they've used? I bought HP4 for the first oil change, but Rotella T6 has been suggested by several people on Honda forums and it'd be much more convenient as I also run it in my car. Oh god what have you done
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Jul 26, 2017 16:25
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Fifty Three posted:Any F4i owners wanna chime in on what oil they've used? I bought HP4 for the first oil change, but Rotella T6 has been suggested by several people on Honda forums and it'd be much more convenient as I also run it in my car. Honda GN4 Rotella before and after valve adjustments.
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Jul 26, 2017 16:29
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