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Darchangel posted:
I hate working on daily drivers, how about that. Project cars, even other people's project cars can be fun. Slow_is_fast's race car is a loving blast to work on. Get ready for races, fix it out in a field during races, etc. But working on a daily driver? Soul sucking. I was a mechanic and it was the worstest poo poo, every day, day in and day out, work on neglected appliances.
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Aug 25, 2017 15:52
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I'm not familiar with older GM front's but this appears to be a correct image of what I'm dealing with, the studs come through the backside of the rotor and then pin through the hub - necessitating stud removal to separate rotor and hub to r2 rotor. Why in the *gently caress* would you design it like that? It's literally the most difficult you could possible get it. Ugh. GM, and a lot of other '60s American iron, when they went to front disks, used a rotor that was cast as one piece with the bearing hub, so that the wheel studs press into the rotor itself. Like so: Q~~/s-l500.jpg) chrisgt posted:I hate working on daily drivers, how about that. Project cars, even other people's project cars can be fun. Slow_is_fast's race car is a loving blast to work on. Get ready for races, fix it out in a field during races, etc. Agreed. The whole "I need this car to go to work on Monday" thing just makes it stressful (which is why I will almost always have one more running/driving car than I truly "need".) edit: I bet that the dually disk brakes are that way so they could use the same rotor for single or dually rear wheels. How much you want to be that on the single, the disk assembly slips over the hub from the outside? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 16:47
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Darchangel posted:Why in the *gently caress* would you design it like that? It's literally the most difficult you could possible get it. Ugh. It's a giant PITA. No, the part numbers are different. The barrel of the rotor and the center opening are different sizes between the SRW/DRW rotors. edit:At least Dodge (and I think Ford) had the courtesy to make a set of fasteners inside the rotor barrel that attach it to the hub, vs using the wheel studs.
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Aug 25, 2017 17:01
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Darchangel posted:GM, and a lot of other '60s American iron, when they went to front disks, used a rotor that was cast as one piece with the bearing hub, so that the wheel studs press into the rotor itself. My Ford Explorer and Ranger both had the combined disc/hubs. It's kind of a bitch to replace your wheel bearings every time you do brakes.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:22
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:My Ford Explorer and Ranger both had the combined disc/hubs. I usually just repacked them and replaced the seal (sometimes).
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Aug 25, 2017 20:36
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chrisgt posted:I hate working on daily drivers, how about that. Project cars, even other people's project cars can be fun. Slow_is_fast's race car is a loving blast to work on. Get ready for races, fix it out in a field during races, etc. Agreed 110% I love crewing for SiF but I will put off working on my DD as long as possible because gently caress that boring car. And I will never work in a mechanic shop again, that poo poo is for the birds.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:57
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The '88 Starion auto I've got has a shut-down coolant leak. Nailed it down to a stupid little hose that goes from a Y-pipe from the heater core to the intake manifold to preheat the intake air or some nonsense. Anyways, it has one of those lovely spring-steel clamps instead of a screw type. Good shot of it from below:  The access is so poor I ended up getting a set of those hose clamp pliers.  I can get on it with the remote squeezer, but I can't get the drat thing to budge. It rotates on the pipe it's over, but I just can't get any leverage in there to push it off.  Stupid loving thing.  So I decided to be more productive and work on redoing the rear interior of the car. The kid I got two of these Starions from was "lightening" this one, so the back seat and that area was gutted. Between the three cars I have, I'm going to make this one as nice as I can (It is DannyWilson's car anyhow..) How I got it, we threw some duct tape over the open bolt holes where the rear seat belts were before we roadtripped it to Myrtle Beach in January.  I used the bolts that were in the race car shell to plug the holes in this one. That'll keep the water out better and more noise abatement.  I used the best of the shoulder pad things and seat bottoms that I had in the garage. Looks pretty good. Will definitely soak up a lot more noise. And it's not like any of that poo poo I put back in weighed much at all. Maybe 15 pounds total?  Fitted the cargo cover thing from the third car. After looking at the back seats in that car, they're in great shape. So the next restorative project will be removing them gently and installing the full rear seat set in Danny's car. 
Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 22:24
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Darchangel posted:I usually just repacked them and replaced the seal (sometimes). There was a point where I was going through a set of front wheel bearings on the Explorer like every 3 months. No loving clue why, and I never bothered to figure it out.
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Aug 25, 2017 22:54
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Pulled my ac compressor. It weighs like 55 pounds and looks like a small motorcycle engine. I didnt consider the difference in weight compared to a sanden was gonna lift my front end an inch or so lol. poo poo. Thats gonna bug me.
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Aug 26, 2017 00:07
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Replaced the spark plugs and leads on my 1965 Falcon. Thing runs smooth now, need to do an oil change on it next.
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Aug 26, 2017 14:26
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StormDrain posted:Generally when you buy a big block Dodge from auction you have to tear that engine down before you can run shine in it. This sounds like a Jim Croce song. This is a 3.5 V6, though. It pukes going uphill with the A/C on unless you punch it. Then it loving moves, but goodbye gas mileage. The 5.7 Hemi? I'm keeping that one. It still has the pushbar, center divider, and poverty criminal seat in the back.  Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses. I hate Illinois Nazis. Darchangel posted:It all depends on who did the cop equipment install, and what equipment, exactly. Undoubtedly, some of the installers are hacks. I had a P71 briefly.  It was used for undercover stuff, even though it was obviously a cop car. The trunk was still full of AV equipment connections- all early 2000s technology. They left the CCDs in the front and rear. How much use those were when used, I have no idea. The 5 sets of wiring harnesses throughout got annoying, so I ended up cutting and hiding them in places rather than pulling them all. I found a Grand Marquis at PnP (linkages were not left in car), and reinstalled them so the rear doors worked from the inside again. Trunk was not disconnected on this one, thankfully. The antennas were hidden in the trunk so all I had was one completely-not-stock GPS antenna on the trunk. I left it there. The interior was pristine, and they left enough of the A pillars intact that I was able to just cover and seal the holes. Whole thing ended up costing me $850 including smog and gas (drat thing was a pig in the city). Sold for a bit shy of $2k. Not bad for about a day of actual work. It will probably be my last Ford- gently caress Ford and their rivets everywhere. Bipolar Transistor fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 26, 2017 19:22
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Last night I finally replaced the worn out steering rack that's been on my truck since i bought it 2 years ago. It's been fun constantly correcting on the highway, but now it just steers. Like a car. So nice now.  Also threw new plugs and wires at it since I hadn't ever checked them in the time I've owned it. Super easy with this giant engine bay, only the passenger rear is any sort of a challenge. They were worn but all still had good gaps and coloration. May have been original, 132k miles.  Still catching up on maintenance on this guy. Next will likely be coolant flush, oil change, trans flush/cooler upgrade, rear diff lube, and a blower motor resistor (common failure on these, lost fan speeds 1 and 2 out of 5). Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 26, 2017 21:25
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I did some garage organizing because I am an agent of chaos.
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Aug 26, 2017 22:46
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Bipolar Transistor posted:This sounds like a Jim Croce song. Look at me, I'm like the    And I created a spot that I can't get to to weld!  Since it's all underfloor anyway I'll stack a new piece but I've had enough fun for the day.
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Aug 26, 2017 23:18
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Cross posting from the Subaru thread New Wheel Hotness   The other ones were stolen  Old ones for reference: 
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Aug 27, 2017 01:23
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You left your rack on.
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Aug 27, 2017 01:45
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WHO IN THEIR RIGHT loving MIND PUTS THE WIPER AND WASHER FLUID CONTROL BOARD INSIDE THE WIPER MOTOR ITSELF?! Also I found FOUR more .40 S&W shells in the Crown Vic. In the little wiper motor cowl drainage flap. In fact, the flap was clogged with the shells and dead leaves, so water didn't drain away from the motor, which caused a control board failure. I took apart the motor control board and cleaned up the connections with some baking soda and then isopropyl, and then re-soldered all of the board joints. Works okay now. 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 02:38
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Wrar posted:I did some garage organizing because I am an agent of chaos. Oh, I'm just going to make a little space for the motorcycle to fit better. Four hours and a gallon of sweat later I've completely reorganized all of the tools, spare parts and bicycles and and and
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Aug 27, 2017 11:41
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 Swore at it. A lot. Didnt even get a single ugga out of the rattle gun undoing that before it sheared off. Thats 4 studs on this thing in 10K kms. Time to pull and replace every single one of them i think. Thats not a cheap exercise at $12 per nut+stud set and 5 stud wheels Tho this is the first time i've pulled the nuts since i had the new tyres fitted, so it might be down to tyre shop rattle gun enthusiasm too. They're the cuntiest studs to get out too, not only do you have to pull the drive flange, the wheel bearings and the caliper to get the entire hub off, but the studs are sandwiched BETWEEN the rotor and the hub body, so you have to seperate the two. rears are easy, pull the caliper and bracket, release handbrake, pull rotor off axle, position stud to where you can get it out without hitting handbrake components and smack it til it pops out, then pull a new stud through with a spacer ring and a nut.
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Aug 27, 2017 14:03
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Rewired and replaced all the lighting on my wife's horse/stock trailer, was able to find direct fit replacements for all the running lights. The trailer wiring had been goobered on...a lot..in the last 30 years. NSF Kastein  Lots of splices hidden in the frame rails. No protection on sharp edges, little wonder it was blowing fuses. The trailer has already hit the road this morning and I didn't get a picture, so have a crappy snap.  Got 3/4 brakes working just by rewiring, I'll check that last one when I have the wheels off next weekend.
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Aug 27, 2017 16:25
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Larrymer posted:Still catching up on maintenance on this guy. Next will likely be coolant flush, oil change, trans flush/cooler upgrade, rear diff lube, and a blower motor resistor (common failure on these, lost fan speeds 1 and 2 out of 5). Went out to do this stuff in bold today. Oil change went fine but it's obviously been awhile since I've done one since the filter was rusty. It isn't the miles, it's the time for this one. Coolant "flush" turned into a drain and fill once I pulled out the radiator drain plug that drains onto the frame and then immediately goes everywhere. Then, I looked at the rear diff in all it's rusty glory. In about 2 seconds, I deemed the fluid inside to be "lifetime fluid."  (if imgur weren't being a poo poo, I'd upload the glorious rust photos, there's no way I can get off the cover or the fill/drain bolt without a drill and torch).Edit: pretty sure the power steering is leaking on the truck from swapping the rack a couple days ago. Hopefully it's just the two little o-rings that I didn't replace on the hoses which I'll swap in once they're here and have another go... Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 20:28
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I put hood pins on the Gorester because the original latch had given up the ghost.
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Aug 27, 2017 23:19
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My wife was supposed to go bridesmaid dress shopping for her friend's wedding yesterday but got 5 minutes down the road and called me saying her car "felt weird and had no power." She got back and it's clearly running on three cylinders so I got to be ripped off for $fuckyou by the only store around that carried a full set of four ignition coils but gently caress me we need to car to run so she can get to work on Monday. Changed the plugs, too. At least it runs right again and we just paid it off so it's almost new car time for her anyway.
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Aug 27, 2017 23:22
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Why all four coils?
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Aug 27, 2017 23:27
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I got my Outback from drivable to engine-on-a-stand in under two and a half hours. Doing jobs is a lot easier the second time!  Now I get to take the timing case and chains apart and figure out where I hosed the RTV and o-rings so that it pissed itself when it makes oil pressure.
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Aug 27, 2017 23:44
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Boys who love boys
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Started yanking the brace that gets in the way of the starter on my wife's Nissan. After much swearing, the brace is loose, but I can't fully remove it (and throw it into the loving trash) until I drop the header. I guess it's getting a hotshot clone header. The Chinese still make those, right? This brace is utterly stupid. It braces the engine to the engine; originally I thought it was supposed to hold up the intake manifold but it sure isn't. It's like 11lb of thick steel that just holds up a few solenoids (evap purge, something else) and provides clips for some wiring harnesses. You have like a third of an inch of clearance for all the bolts that are holding it on, which are seized from ancient rust. The B13 doesn't have it, although its intake manifold has less emissions crap bolted onto it. It's going in the trash and whatever happens as a result happens.
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Aug 28, 2017 00:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Why all four coils? Car has 186K and I figured they were due.  Probably unnecessary but worst case I didn't want to have to deal with it again.
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Aug 28, 2017 00:48
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Installed a cam, new pushrods, oil pump, timing chain, head gaskets, lifters. also a supercharger. I dont want to turn a wrench for a while. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viaqmRxAxDA (today being the last week) crutt fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Aug 28, 2017 |
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Aug 28, 2017 19:32
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Did a brake overhaul on the Forester, discovered the source of the horrific brake shake/shimmy was the left rear rotor. loving thing was rusted and deeply pitted on 70% of the surface. The pads were fine and all the other rotors (they're all the same age) looked fine. Duracrap strikes again. Put some nice Brembo blanks on this time, and it stops so smooth and even now. Also finished installing the new stereo and fixed the positive camber issue on the left front (thanks for not fixing that, alignment guy, you're the best!) and it drives like a new car almost.
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Aug 28, 2017 21:20
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crutt posted:Installed a cam, new pushrods, oil pump, timing chain, head gaskets, lifters. also a supercharger. I dont want to turn a wrench for a while. whew. That feeling when it doesn't explode in your face.
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Aug 28, 2017 21:35
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:whew. Goddamn if you aint right. I was waiting for no oil pressure.
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Aug 28, 2017 22:18
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crutt posted:Installed a cam, new pushrods, oil pump, timing chain, head gaskets, lifters. also a supercharger. I dont want to turn a wrench for a while. That.. that sounds pretty good. 
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Aug 29, 2017 08:53
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Now yesterday rather than today, but close. Welded up a rust hole in the footwell:  was a tricky one as it was double layered due to there being a structural bit underneath, so I had to fix that first   In the process gave myself some nice weld-burn on my arms because it was hot outside and i forgot to go get a jumper. Then I cleaned out the inside of the car, painted bits of the floor and refitted the headlining and the bumpers and loads more bits of trim to make it look more like an actual car and free up loads of space in my house/shed:  
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Aug 29, 2017 12:46
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Tomarse posted:Welded up a rust hole in the footwell: Nice! there's a skill I don't have yet, but hope to work towards soon! Yesterday I spent about 6 hours fussing with (and completing) one side of the dually back brakes. Wheels and axle out  Circlip, square key, and axle nut off.  After much pounding and swearing, hub/rotor assy off.  Bought a press, used the press.  Successful separation. Assembly is reverse of disassembly, etc. 
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Aug 29, 2017 13:57
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Tomarse posted:Then I cleaned out the inside of the car, painted bits of the floor and refitted the headlining and the bumpers and loads more bits of trim to make it look more like an actual car and free up loads of space in my house/shed: ^ getting there! Yesterday in the hot hot heat of the mid-day sun I installed some speed bleeders in my calipers (these are dooooooooooope), stopped my poo poo squeaking by using copper grease and bled the entire brake system. It feels weird that there's now not an inch of pedal travel before the brakes start to work, I kinda like the progressive feel I had. :/
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Aug 29, 2017 13:58
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Olympic Mathlete posted:^ getting there! Holy poo poo I never knew that those existed! Tomorrow its on my list of jobs to take the dash out (not enough clearance on the lid with it in) and try bleeding my truck using an eezibleed as I still have a bit of air left in the load valve above the rear axle. I've got what feels like about 80% of it out using a vacuum bleeder but i'm still not quite there.. I shall buy a set of those If I cant get it all out this time.
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Aug 29, 2017 14:13
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Tomarse posted:Holy poo poo I never knew that those existed! There needs to be fluid in the system to begin with to operate the one-way valve so I'm not sure what would happen if they were installed on something with a fair whack of air in it. I had intended to just buy replacement nipples as mine had been abused by previous owners but decided to give these a try, they were about £15 for a set of 4 and aren't made of cheese like straight replacement nipples. Bleeding the brakes was the easiest thing I've ever done on this car. These were the ones I grabbed (obviously they're sized differently depending on your ride) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Bleed-Nipple-7mm-x-1-00mm-New-/141496389661?hash=item20f1d7901d:m:mjpnpXYWH2ZOEx-1fD64evg Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Aug 29, 2017 |
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Aug 29, 2017 14:50
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Larrymer posted:Went out to do this stuff in bold today. Oil change went fine but it's obviously been awhile since I've done one since the filter was rusty. It isn't the miles, it's the time for this one. Coolant "flush" turned into a drain and fill once I pulled out the radiator drain plug that drains onto the frame and then immediately goes everywhere. still not enough buckets.  Hmm..  Well maybe...  NOPE  That's not happening anytime soon. That's hardly recognizable as a bolt anymore. The drain plug may have come out, but with the fill plug being totally seized and so rusty that the square key is too far gone to get a breaker bar to stay in there, it ain't happening.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:27
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YIkes, I thought my rear end was bad when I had to pull the cover and the fill plug. My condolences. And this is from someone that lives in the rust belt and gets sad every time they look under the vehicle.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:49
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C-Bangin' it 
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Meh, run it til it explodes then throw in another axle. It's probably easier than drilling and tapping all of that poo poo. 
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Aug 29, 2017 21:16
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