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The cheapest centric rotors they make for the car. Whatever Autozone has for ceramic pads is likely fine too.
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Sep 5, 2017 22:38
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mobby_6kl posted:You can also stick one of these instead of the standard bulb. I have one with the shittier 5630 LEDs and they're bright as gently caress even with the standard cover. I have one on order from eBay, when it arrives in 52-93 days it's going to be like the sun in there.
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Sep 6, 2017 00:50
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Any recommendations for NC rotors/pads? Had the dealership replace them the last time, but for the price I have a feeling I can get much better aftermarket stuff and do it myself. I got Raybestos rotors and whatever pads were popular on rockauto (they were Monroe). They seem just as good as stock. Far cheaper than a dealership job and much more satisfying.
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Sep 7, 2017 04:13
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 Went to Nats and got our asses kicked. Car is pretty well prepped (rebuilt motor, made low 120s dynojet, xidas, 2008 lbs, etc), but neither me nor my codriver had any inkling as to how big or fast the courses would be. Back to Lincoln next year for sure. ACTUALLY THE REAL PROBLEM WASN'T LACK OF TALENT, BUT THAT WE WERE RUNNING BRIDGESTONES :v destructo fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Sep 9, 2017 |
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Sep 9, 2017 00:35
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Is it just the angle of the photo or do people run like 5 degrees of camber there?
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Sep 9, 2017 00:44
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craig588 posted:Is it just the angle of the photo or do people run like 5 degrees of camber there? Pretty much. 3-4 degrees in front, bit less in the back. Can't speak for the Hondas.
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Sep 9, 2017 01:24
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Leaving in a few to go pickup a set of 15x9 6uls with RS3s mounted for a cool $500. Max jinba ittai! (and possibly some rubbing)
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Sep 9, 2017 12:12
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destructo posted:
What class did you run? I have a few friends, two of which placed in their classes - one in CS and one in SM. Also know the irish sounding dude in a red nb running in STR who got smoked, but I'm usually close to his times so it's nice to have a benchmark 
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Sep 9, 2017 16:49
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Welp, I'm finally one of those guys who use the kitchen for car stuff while the wife looks at me like I'm an idiot. 
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Sep 10, 2017 20:17
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TrueChaos posted:What class did you run? I have a few friends, two of which placed in their classes - one in CS and one in SM. Also know the irish sounding dude in a red nb running in STR who got smoked, but I'm usually close to his times so it's nice to have a benchmark
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Sep 10, 2017 22:53
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destructo posted:STS for the two of us. What a riot. Yeah, it looks like quite a time. I need to find someones car to codrive and get down one year. I'd love to bring mine but it's not quite class legal for stupid reasons that don't mater at a regional level and not prepped anywhere near the extents of the rulebook, so it'd be a bit of a waste of time.
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Sep 11, 2017 01:01
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There's a bunch of winning STS Civics for sale on RRAX right now..
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Sep 11, 2017 01:31
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Does anybody know if the 2006 wiring diagramis the same for a 2008? anybody have a 2008 wiring diagram? I found a 2006 diagram but it's missing every other page.... My HVAC is just nuts
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Sep 14, 2017 22:11
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In a bizarre reverse-torch passing, I sold my auto-trans Miata to a old bald dude with a severely sunburned scalp and a bum knee who still wanted to have some fun on the twisties. Godspeed, you majestic old coot.
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Sep 27, 2017 19:31
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I did a thing  
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Sep 28, 2017 02:54
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What are people doing to repair bottom bolsters on NB2 seats? I picked up an 04 MSM recently and it's in great condition but the outer bolsters of both seats are basically flat and I'm not seeing any solutions aside from rebuilding the bottom foam DIY style. That's fine but if there's an off the shelf method that would be better. I'd prefer to fix them properly the first time so that I don't have to worry about them for a few more years.
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Oct 3, 2017 16:15
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SpartanIV posted:I did a thing Hah, cute. How are you liking the ND? Can you compare it to any older gens you may have owned previously?
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Oct 4, 2017 22:06
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I'd only test driven an NC before I decided on the ND, so I'm not really qualified to offer any good comparison, but I liked the ND more than the NC to go with it and pay the "new car" premium. I love the ND though. It has a host of new-car-model issues that you have to put up with to some extent. Some of the soft tops have issues with rubbing, which I've not had to deal with luckily. The biggest issue is that a lot of the early transmissions fail after a while and I feel like I'm driving a time bomb around sometimes. At least it's covered by the warranty if/when it breaks.
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Oct 5, 2017 00:53
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SpartanIV posted:I'd only test driven an NC before I decided on the ND, so I'm not really qualified to offer any good comparison, but I liked the ND more than the NC to go with it and pay the "new car" premium. I've got the soft top rub on mine. I've been waiting for top down weather to be over before bringing it in to get taken care of at the dealership.
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Oct 5, 2017 01:10
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Hello fellow ND owners, any of you interested in some Konis?
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Oct 5, 2017 02:52
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Does anyone know how much of a pain in the rear end is it to add fog lights to an NbFL that didn't come with them? Some local guy is selling the lights + switch for a few bucks so I thought i'd add them just for the feeling of completeness 
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Oct 5, 2017 14:53
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Cobra Commander posted:Hah, cute. How are you liking the ND? Can you compare it to any older gens you may have owned previously? Small. VERY snappy/torquey. Small. Much more claustrophobic than the NA/NB/NC and its because the top of the windshield is much closer to your head... almost a 6" difference from what I remember. Fun as hell  I just wish I fit!
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Oct 5, 2017 14:56
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Looks like I spoke too soon. I just checked again and I do have some signs of rubbing but I'm not sure how. The top doesn't come close to touching that spot when I lift or retract it. I'm thinking it's maybe happening when I hit bumps while driving?
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Oct 5, 2017 19:31
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SpartanIV posted:Looks like I spoke too soon. I just checked again and I do have some signs of rubbing but I'm not sure how. The top doesn't come close to touching that spot when I lift or retract it. I'm thinking it's maybe happening when I hit bumps while driving? When the top is folded down, the seam that runs front-to-back (on both sides) is up against that spot and rubs due to the vibration of normal driving. A lot of people on m.net appear to have had their tops replaced but apparently there isn't a new revision of the top that actually fixes the problem, so you just end up getting the rubbing again. I get the marks myself but am debating on whether it's worth the time to get it replaced when it'll just happen again. The marks are much less noticeable after I applied some Chemical Guys brand soft top protectant, so if it bothers you visually then try that. Strangely, they got worse when I applied the 303 brand equivalent so don't use that.
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Oct 5, 2017 19:43
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I'm not really understanding your description. Maybe were talking about different spots? Mine is on the front edge that attaches to the windshield. It didn't look like anything under it could touch it but I'll check again later.
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Oct 5, 2017 19:54
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Check out this TSB for pictures. It's more towards the rear near the side windows. https://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/Rubbing%20Contact%20Marks%20on%20CONVERTIBLE%20TOP%20Top%20Fabric.pdf I do get some marks on my front edge too but I think that's just due to wind.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:04
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Yeah okay I don't have that rubbing I think, but there's definitely fabric wear on the front edge of mine on one particular spot. I'll try and get a picture later.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:07
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Hikaki posted:When the top is folded down, the seam that runs front-to-back (on both sides) is up against that spot and rubs due to the vibration of normal driving. There are 2 different top rubbing issues. The one I have is the leading edge of the top rubs on the back of the roll hoop plastic when the top is down causing a hole on the front edge of the top. Its also scrubbed off some of the plastic on the roll hoop cover. There is a TSB fix for that one which replaces some bracket and causes the roof to sit more rearward when down giving more clearance.
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Oct 5, 2017 20:47
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I also have the rub marks near the window. The passenger side one has one thread of fraying, I'm expecting it to get worse. The kinda sucky part about this issue is some people on miata.net haven't had the best luck getting the dealer to roll with replacing it.SpartanIV posted:The biggest issue is that a lot of the early transmissions fail after a while and I feel like I'm driving a time bomb around sometimes. At least it's covered by the warranty if/when it breaks. Did you check the TSB to see if your VIN actually falls in here? Gonna Send It fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Oct 6, 2017 |
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Oct 6, 2017 02:22
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Katosabi posted:I also have the rub marks near the window. The passenger side one has one thread of fraying, I'm expecting it to get worse. The kinda sucky part about this issue is some people on miata.net haven't had the best luck getting the dealer to roll with replacing it. It does 
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Oct 6, 2017 04:00
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Best thing to do now: floor it in 2nd and 3rd every time so that it blows up before 60k.
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Oct 6, 2017 05:32
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Hikaki posted:Best thing to do now: floor it in 2nd and 3rd every time so that it blows up before 60k. And if it doesn't blow up I guess we're good!
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Oct 6, 2017 08:06
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Hikaki posted:Best thing to do now: floor it in 2nd and 3rd every time so that it blows up before 60k. This has pretty much been my Miata ownership experience so far
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Oct 7, 2017 00:25
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Hikaki posted:Best thing to do now: floor it in 2nd and 3rd every time so that it blows up before 60k. Isn't this what you're supposed to do no matter what Miata you drive? 
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Oct 7, 2017 01:16
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Lord knows I did with my NB.
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Oct 7, 2017 02:28
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edit: SOLD. Nocheez fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 18:24
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Nocheez posted:My 1999 NB is going to be up for sale in the near future. It's got 172K miles and is pretty much unmolested except to add bigger speakers to the doors and a cheap Pioneer radio. The top should probably be replaced, and it has BMW floormats because they were free. If you're interested and in the Charlotte, NC area let me know. What kind of $ we looking at?
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Oct 13, 2017 18:38
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:What kind of $ we looking at? $3,000 is what I'm asking right now. It was literally owned by an old woman who sold it because she was afraid of driving it in the snow (the one time a year it happens). She cried when I picked it up, she obviously loved the car. It has an aftermarket cruise control that works, but doesn't seem to like being set above 75. I don't take it on really long drives, usually just around town and to work on nice days.
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Oct 13, 2017 18:45
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That's a good price unless there's hidden rust which I doubt they're salting for in an area that snows once a year. I wouldn't drop it any lower.
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Oct 13, 2017 19:05
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craig588 posted:That's a good price unless there's hidden rust which I doubt they're salting for in an area that snows once a year. I wouldn't drop it any lower. Rust free, it's been in Alabama and North Carolina its whole life. I will probably list it locally for $3500.
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Oct 13, 2017 19:18
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