|
I like Netgear as well for lower-end business gear. For home use TP-Link is good too. If you have UniFi WiFi the UniFi switch ties in to the same controller system and gives you a lot of neat stats about connected devices, but it's more expensive than Netgear or TP-Link so if you don't care about those nerdy details it doesn't make much sense. I always recommend some level of management on PoE switches. It's really nice to be able to remotely power cycle a single port if you need to reboot a powered endpoint.
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2017 20:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 03:46 |
|
|
So I started that electrician's training. Got 21 wires coming out of a junction box, how the hell am I supposed to connect this poo poo? Not my first tango with 230V. Its all hooked up and waiting for isolation resistance measurement etc. I can snap some photos if people are interested.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 17:47
|
|
|
beyonder posted:So I started that electrician's training. Got 21 wires coming out of a junction box, how the hell am I supposed to connect this poo poo? Not my first tango with 230V. Its all hooked up and waiting for isolation resistance measurement etc. Just hook them all together. Hope you got a wire nut the size of your fist! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 18:08
|
|
|
beyonder posted:So I started that electrician's training. Got 21 wires coming out of a junction box, how the hell am I supposed to connect this poo poo? Not my first tango with 230V. Its all hooked up and waiting for isolation resistance measurement etc. Please do. It's great to see stuff like this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 23:17
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Please do. It's great to see stuff like this. Not the same stuff but I have some stale spaghetti if you're into that sort of thing.  
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 03:04
|
|
|
What the jeeslus is going on with that drill on the floor, or rather the bit in it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 12:47
|
|
|
From the crappy construction thread:Drake_263 posted:Not really crappy construction in itself, but it fits: Good for them!
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
Rnr posted:What the jeeslus is going on with that drill on the floor, or rather the bit in it? Possibly a hook and extension for setting ceiling wire for drop ceilings and supporting flying conduits and devices.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 21:56
|
|
|
Yet another GFCI question: My garage had one lonely duplex outlet in it, which was a GFCI, and which I removed and wired in some more plugs to give me more outlets around the garage (using appropriate romex, outlets, conduit, etc). Where the GFCI was is now just a junction to feed the new outlets. In typical "gently caress the guy before me" fashion, the garage shares the circuit with the outlets in the dining room that it shares a wall with. I get it, sometimes you just want to draw power from an easy place, but come on, guy. It's not installing a living room outlet on the other side of the dining room outlet. Never had any issue with the GFCI outlet that was in the garage that I replaced (tested fine when I hit the test button and otherwise provided power), but I said to myself "you know what would be cool? putting a GFCI breaker on the entire circuit instead of just feeding off the single GFCI duplex outlet." So I wired up the breaker for that circuit, and it pops as soon as I turn the main breakers back on. Tried the trick of turning off every other breaker and it still pops. My understanding is that the only thing that can be causing this is that somewhere between the breaker box and where the garage wiring starts (where the previously working fine GFCI used to be), something has a neutral and a ground crossed. Is there anything else that could be causing this? Is there an easy way to see if a ground wire is carrying a load at the box or outlet? I'm a bit wary of jamming my multimeter into outlets looking for a crossed wire. Will one of those plug-in outlet testers tell me if a ground is carrying current?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 22:22
|
|
|
Are you sure the gfci breaker is wired correctly? I ask because I think at least twice this exact question has come up, and the circuit neutral was not brought to the gfci breaker.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 22:25
|
|
|
Yeah, start w/ the breaker. If it is wired correctly, disconnect and isolate the wires in the jbox that had the GFI and see if the breaker still trips.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 00:18
|
|
|
Yeah, hot and neutral from that circuit into the breaker, ground remaining in the ground, breaker pigtail into the neutral bus. Hadn't thought of disconnecting everything I added since obviously I would never screw up. Will try that and see what happens.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 00:30
|
|
|
Crap, while I was painting I had my thermostat hanging free, but I think I accidentally yanked a wire. Can anyone tell me where Mister Green goes? Terminal block with loose wire:  Make/model imprint: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 02:13
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Crap, while I was painting I had my thermostat hanging free, but I think I accidentally yanked a wire. Can anyone tell me where Mister Green goes? None of the other terminals are screwed down at all. If you did yank it free it was only held in by hopes and dreams anyways.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 02:44
|
|
|
You just described the vast majority of the finishing work in this house. :|
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 02:55
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Crap, while I was painting I had my thermostat hanging free, but I think I accidentally yanked a wire. Can anyone tell me where Mister Green goes? Seems it has to be Humidity Control (H), Dehumidify Control (DC), or 24V (RC)--do you have a volt meter? Do you know if your system supposed a humidifier or dehumidifier? (What region/state do you live in?)
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 03:05
|
|
|
Iowa. I...don't actually know if I have a dehumidifier. Pretty sure I haven't spotted a humidifier in there, my last house had one of those. e: It might have been plugged into DH. There's no way it was in H or I1 at all (they were both screwed completely shut) and I2 is completely wide open. RC is possible, but imgur commenters advised me to not go plugging it into that one unless I'm sure. DH, though, it will almost (almost) squeeze back in without loosening the terminal, so it's quite feasible it was in there and got yanked out. ee: I do have a meter. I'm assuming you're interested in the reading on the loose wire? What should I use as the neutral for that? Like measure from the loose green to...? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Sep 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 03:08
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Iowa. I...don't actually know if I have a dehumidifier. Pretty sure I haven't spotted a humidifier in there, my last house had one of those. I2 and I1 aren't used. Measure the voltage from the loose wire to the C (only wire (red) in the block). If you get 24v--the wire came from RC. I'm no HVAC pro, but I think imgur guys are thinking backwards. If that wire is carrying 24v--and you plug it into H or DH that would probably let a little smoke out of the internal chips... Whole House Humidifiers are near your air handler typically and will have water (and a water cut-off) running to the unit. http://www.carrier.com/residential/en/us/products/indoor-air-quality/humidifiers/ Whole House Dehumidifiers will have a drain line. http://www.carrier.com/residential/en/us/products/indoor-air-quality/dehumidifiers/ Humidifiers are really nice to have but not very common. Dehumidifiers are even more rare. e: changing my guess to DH--which is also going to be your fan control. (Would mean the green wire did not read 24v) HycoCam fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Sep 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 03:44
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Crap, while I was painting I had my thermostat hanging free, but I think I accidentally yanked a wire. Can anyone tell me where Mister Green goes? Go down to your furnace and open it up. What terminal is the green wire attached to?
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 03:50
|
|
|
The DH terminal for that thermostat is also the variable speed fan control. I'm going to change my guess after looking at the instructions.  Still check the voltage of the loose wire.http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/Climatouch_CT07TC32ADH_IOM.pdf
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 04:29
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Just hook them all together. Hope you got a wire nut the size of your fist! No but we have a cabinet with several thousand wagos in it. the spyder posted:Please do. It's great to see stuff like this. Here's the 21 wire beauty. Two dual outlets, one switch for a single light and a two for staircase lighting. Starting another assignment on monday so I'll have more photos then.  We use this Fluke tester at the school, everything gets measured, RCDs tested for current and time etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 13:04
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:The DH terminal for that thermostat is also the variable speed fan control. I'm going to change my guess after looking at the instructions. I checked the voltage on that loose wire, it's got nothin'. Everything ran fine last night, so I dunno. I'm gonna put it in the DH terminal and see if I can tell if it's running anything differently.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2017 15:18
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I checked the voltage on that loose wire, it's got nothin'. Everything ran fine last night, so I dunno. I'm gonna put it in the DH terminal and see if I can tell if it's running anything differently. Honestly, physical inspection is your best bet on where it goes. If DH Is the only terminal that isn't screwed down tight or wide open, put it there. Worst thing that happens is you burn up your thermostat. Control boards in HVAC units are typically robust enough to deal with completely retarded wiring monkeys tinkering with the stuff on the other end while live.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 01:05
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:From the crappy construction thread: i used to work in a cable shop, sometimes we had to make cables that were not only immoral but probably also illegal. a couple of those existed. not only did 'special' cables not get the certification sticker, they didn't get the company name either.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2017 08:16
|
|
|
Working on a duplex and I have a 30 amp #10-4 wire that used to be used for a dryer plug on one side of the common wall. Ideally I would like to make it a gfi so people can hook up washer/ gas dryer. Would this be ok? Or would I have to switch the whole circuit out for a 20? On the other side for the laundry room is a 12-4 but it's hooked up to a 2 separate 20 amperes 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 19:10
|
|
|
bef posted:Working on a duplex and I have a 30 amp #10-4 wire that used to be used for a dryer plug on one side of the common wall. Ideally I would like to make it a gfi so people can hook up washer/ gas dryer. Would this be ok? Or would I have to switch the whole circuit out for a 20? You'd have to swap the breaker for a 20A to match the 20A outlet, but you probably could. You said "common wall". What's it common with? Laundry circuits are only allowed to serve that one room.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 19:33
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:You'd have to swap the breaker for a 20A to match the 20A outlet, but you probably could. You said "common wall". What's it common with? Laundry circuits are only allowed to serve that one room. The other laundry room of the duplex, they both have their own laundry circuits. Trying not to get a permit going as then I would have to get an electrician involved but alas. Probably could? Wouldn't it be too much amperes for the gfi? Doesn't that fry out the gfi/wiring?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 20:04
|
|
|
bef posted:The other laundry room of the duplex, they both have their own laundry circuits. Trying not to get a permit going as then I would have to get an electrician involved but alas. That's not how these things work. If you put a 20A breaker on your #10 wire, you can put a 20A GFI on that circuit. The breaker protects the wire. Having a lower-rated breaker just means the wire is extra safe. You could even go completely nuts and put a 20A GFCI breaker in (since you're replacing the breaker anyway) and put up to six duplex outlets in that laundry room.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 23:07
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:check your local code to make sure it's legit (if you care), they can be weird and nonsensical about that. ElCondemn posted:2. It's all dependent on how the electronic device is designed. Mainly the third prong is just grounding in case there's a short, instead of shorting to ground through you and potentially killing you it'll short to ground through that third prong. It's most common in devices that run at higher voltages or have conductive parts. Doctor Butts posted:So are you saying I could wire up a ground rod or something to the point where the metal conduit starts? SoundMonkey posted:you can get a non-shameful whole-home tankless gas heater for like $600
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 03:36
|
|
|
I have a question about exterior switches, I have this outside: I see that it's just a regular switch inside a box and the outside lever just flips it. I guess I could replace the switch with a z-wave switch of the same style right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 17:25
|
|
|
Jerk McJerkface posted:I have a question about exterior switches, I have this outside: You got it. Those covers only work with toggle switches though, not the rocker style ones. Outdoor outlets on the other hand must be weather resistant rated.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 17:47
|
|
|
So I just moved into a new apartment. It's a 1930's building, plaster and lath walls. There's a fairly modern breaker box in the basement and individual meters and such, but in the closet of every unit is an old fuse box with 4 fuses in it. The big problem with the unit, and we've only noticed since we moved in, is there every room only has 1 outlet (3 prong at least thank god) at the maximum, and no hallways, the bathroom, or the kitchen have any outlets. There's nowhere to plug in the toaster or kettle in the kitchen, there's no place in the bathroom to plug in a shaver or a blow drier. There isn't even an outlet near by because there's nothing in any hallway. Obviously we wouldn't do it our selves, but how difficult would it be to add another outlet or two? The actual switch for the bathroom light is actually IN the backroom which seems rare for buildings of this era, a little outlet under it for a blow drier would be a godsend. Similarly an outlet along any of the kitchen counters would be great too, there's a whole 2nd counter far away from the sink that would probably be ideal for a small kitchen appliance zone. Is this something I could ask my landlord to do and pay for? I'm curious what sort of general price range it would be to get an electrician in to do so, or if it would be some massive nightmare that would need the whole unit's service upgraded or something crazy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 18:22
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:Is this something I could ask my landlord to do and pay for? I'm curious what sort of general price range it would be to get an electrician in to do so, or if it would be some massive nightmare that would need the whole unit's service upgraded or something crazy. You can ask your landlord to do anything, but as long as everything is up to code they have no reason to do poo poo. If you want some new outlets installed it really depends on the contractor, but I'd say on average it's about 300-400 to add an outlet... but keep in mind with older housing you may not be able to run a to code outlet so depending on accessibility and space it could be a lot more expensive than you think. If I were in your position I would just move, the place sounds pretty lovely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 18:30
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:You got it. Those covers only work with toggle switches though, not the rocker style ones. Outdoor outlets on the other hand must be weather resistant rated. Do they make smart switches that are toggles? I've only ever seen the rockers. e: Just out of curiosity, is it possible to put exterior switches under a weather-proof cover instead, like an "In-Use" outlet cover? I guess you'd still have to expose the switch to use it, but I'm wondering if this is a thing that was ever even thought of/done. Also, does any of the code apply to "isolated" smart switches (i.e. switches with no actual power attached to them that act as a second/third location for Smart multi-switch wiring configs)? Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Sep 29, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 20:17
|
|
|
ElCondemn posted:You can ask your landlord to do anything, but as long as everything is up to code they have no reason to do poo poo. If you want some new outlets installed it really depends on the contractor, but I'd say on average it's about 300-400 to add an outlet... but keep in mind with older housing you may not be able to run a to code outlet so depending on accessibility and space it could be a lot more expensive than you think. We just moved in today. He's been doing a lot of upgrades to the building, new roof, new windows, new furnace. I'd be willing to pay 300-400 for a loving plug in the bathroom.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 20:35
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:Is this something I could ask my landlord to do and pay for? I'm curious what sort of general price range it would be to get an electrician in to do so, or if it would be some massive nightmare that would need the whole unit's service upgraded or something crazy. Ask nicely, because yeah, GFCI outlets within 6' of every residential sink are now required by code. It's not beyond the realm of possibility that asking for this outlet from a professional will have them say "my permit requires your $150 outlet and $3500 in other work."
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 21:59
|
|
|
I just remembered that a friend of mine is a practising electrician, I bet he could give us a good deal so long as the landlord approves. I don't care spending 300-400 or so, I just want a drat outlet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2017 22:03
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:So I just moved into a new apartment. It's a 1930's building, plaster and lath walls. There's a fairly modern breaker box in the basement and individual meters and such, but in the closet of every unit is an old fuse box with 4 fuses in it. The big problem with the unit, and we've only noticed since we moved in, is there every room only has 1 outlet (3 prong at least thank god) at the maximum, and no hallways, the bathroom, or the kitchen have any outlets. There's nowhere to plug in the toaster or kettle in the kitchen, there's no place in the bathroom to plug in a shaver or a blow drier. There isn't even an outlet near by because there's nothing in any hallway. Those three prong outlets... I'd be fairly surprised if they were actually grounded.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2017 02:27
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Those three prong outlets... I'd be fairly surprised if they were actually grounded. My buddy is coming around tomorrow to check the building's wiring out the best he can non-invasively and see what he thinks about new outlets. Landlord was surprisingly cool with it, so long as the guy is a real electrician and does it to code he's ok. My friend mostly does commercial and industrial and worked on some 100+ year old heritage poo poo so he should be well suited to the task.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2017 04:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 03:46 |
|
|
Sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Combination-Switch-and-Outlet-White-R62-T5225-0WS/202035011
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2017 04:22
|
|