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Alternator Also, new batteries don't come charged iirc.
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Oct 7, 2017 00:57
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Eh? Every battery I've purchased was charged. OP, I'd guess you either got a bad battery, or your cables aren't connected tightly.
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Oct 7, 2017 01:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:LM7 is a LSx with proper port injection, not the garbage spider injection on the L31. I explained spider injection to someone who'd only dealt with either carbs or proper EFI before, the look in his eyes was haunting.
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Oct 7, 2017 02:18
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Eh? Every battery I've purchased was charged. All of this, and then does that Odyssey have a main relay or anything?
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Oct 7, 2017 02:24
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Honda's infamous main fuel relay wouldn't cause dead battery symptoms though, it would just cause crank/no start.
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Oct 7, 2017 02:38
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 Back is killing me today from all the contorting, but finally got that amp and aftermarket speakers wired in to the factory tape deck*. Huge pain in the butt and I made basically every mistake possible, but feel like I've learned a lot. Since I had a good day at the wreckers on Tuesday, while I was in there running wires I replaced the worn-through driver's side carpet that was bugging me, and added a little coin holder dingus I snagged out of the dash of a nicer one. Also got a set of factory hubcaps that need sanding/priming/repainting, should be a good rainy day project. I've still got that integrated amp/sub combo with the mystery wiring loom that the thread helped me figure out (hopefully). I'm not 100% I won't fry it if I try to connect it up, but at the end of the day it was $20 so I haven't got much to lose. I was doing some Googling and PC molex connectors (what I'm planning on using, grabbed it from a junkyard PSU) are rated to ~11A per wire, so should I be able to just solder that on to a second power wire coming from the battery? It feels a little weird to go down from that beefier wire, but there's nowhere else for power on the amp/sub. This isn't related to the other stuff, but has been bugging the hell out of me since I got the Starlet: it seems to make significantly more wind noise than seems normal at highway speeds. It sounds like it's coming from the top part of the car... my first guess was that the roof racks were the culprits, but when I removed them it didn't make any difference at all. There is a little bit of hole starting to form from rust/corrosion near the top of the windscreen, could that be it? Other guess is the piece of plastic trim at the base of the windscreen which doesn't have the outer clips to hold it fully down. But it's not a rattle at all, just a wind whooshing noise. I suppose the other option is that it's just a cheap car and doesn't have much sound dampening  *not really important, but on the wiring diagram for the head unit one of the wires (dark green) is labeled "Do not use", while all the other ones are labeled clearly as to function. The ones that would be for the power antenna just straight up aren't there on mine, but are labeled in the diagram. Very curious what The Forbidden Wire's function is, anyone have a guess?
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Oct 7, 2017 02:57
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Thanks for the ideas. Cables are tight, that was the first thing I checked when it didn't start with the new battery. There was also minimal corrosion on the connector which I cleaned up as well as I could standing in a parking lot. Hopefully it is just a bad battery. We never got a battery light showing on the dash though and my multi-meter was at home so I couldn't check the battery directly. It was starting to rain while we were messing around with it so we ended up having it towed to the shop down the road for them to look at.
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Oct 7, 2017 03:34
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The battery light generally only comes on when your alternator has crapped out. It also comes on before you start the engine, and should go off either while cranking or immediately after the engine starts. If it's not coming on with the key on/engine off, then you need to figure out why, as your alternator probably won't charge until it gets up to ~2000-3000 RPM (or the alternator could also be disconnected somehow) - the light is part of the excitation circuit on most cars of that era.
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Oct 7, 2017 04:20
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Eh? Every battery I've purchased was charged. They're not necessarily fully charged, and they can sit for a looooong while on the shelf.
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Oct 7, 2017 06:36
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True, but they ARE charged to some degree when they go on the shelf. Some specialty batteries may be shipped dry, but common car batteries haven't been shipped dry in a long time.
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Oct 7, 2017 06:43
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Ok my bad.
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Oct 7, 2017 09:01
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Obsoletely Fabulous posted:My wife has a 2000 Honda Odyssey that just had a rebuilt engine put in it about 500 miles ago. Today it wouldn't start. No radio, no lights, no door chime, nothing. We ended up buying a new battery and putting it in where it was stuck at. Still wouldn't start. We called a tow truck, the driver was able to jump it with her truck and cables. We drove it around the parking lot a bit at her request and it ran normally. We then shut it off, tried to start it again unsuccessfully with the exact same symptoms as before. Any idea what it could be? Use jump leads to connect your battery earth to a good point on the block, and the your battery positive to where the main cable goes to the starter motor, supplementing the existing cables. If it cranks then, give them a much closer look for corrosion.
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Oct 7, 2017 12:04
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I'm trying to decide if it's worth replacing the engine or not in my son's 07 Camry 2AZ-FE engine, 175k with the usual oil burn and I suppose the piston slap became too much. The rest of the car is in good shape, only a small single dent on one of the doors. I have a garage and the knowledge to do a swap, however I'd need to get specific tools to help (hoist, etc). So I'm trying to decide if I want to spend $1400+ extra to swap the engine or just try to sell it to someone on CL for about $1k.. I mean on KBB it was worth about $4k before it decided to throw a rod.
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Oct 7, 2017 13:50
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How much is the new engine alone? How much would a garage charge you vs buying tools (though tools are an investment for future jobs)? I'd probably swap it if the rest of the car's good, though sometimes the cost of the engine isn't much less than what someone will charge for a tow in, drive out exchange.
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Oct 7, 2017 14:14
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I've got some rust coming in on the rocker panels on my Honda Fit. I live in Minnesota so it sees quite a bit of salt, snow, et cetera. What's the best way to treat it? Clear POR-15? Undercoating? There isn't any undercoating on the car right now. I'm leaning toward a combination of the two, where I'd get the rockers with the POR-15 and spray undercoating on the underside. I'm not opposed to paying a shop, but I'd rather DIY if it's not such a bad job.
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Oct 7, 2017 15:37
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OhDearGodNo posted:I'm trying to decide if it's worth replacing the engine or not in my son's 07 Camry Check Craigslist to see what Camrys are going for in your area. I sold a '03 v6 this spring and it was the easiest sale ever. It went to the first person to see it and he paid my asking and that was way over KBB's private party value ($4800 vs $3500). Or if you're in NorCal sell it to me for $1000. Edit: Chevy update. My wife drove me to pick up a rental this morning. The truck was idling like poo poo. She had to give it gas to smooth it out and let it warm up before she could drive. "Oh yeah, it's been doing this since it got cold..."  Time to order a set of intake gaskets (and knock sensors). Anything else I should do while I'm in there? It's a '01 Silverado with the 5.3l. monsterzero fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Oct 7, 2017 |
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Oct 7, 2017 16:09
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Boys who love boys
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so the fuel gauge in my 2011 ford focus is going insane and sometime doesn't read the fuel level from the tank, ford dealership quoted me 900 dollars to replace the entire instrument cluster. With modern electronic clusters I can just buy a junk yard cluster and replace it right?
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Oct 8, 2017 01:38
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wargames posted:so the fuel gauge in my 2011 ford focus is going insane and sometime doesn't read the fuel level from the tank, ford dealership quoted me 900 dollars to replace the entire instrument cluster. With modern electronic clusters I can just buy a junk yard cluster and replace it right? Might this help? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbyokJTj4cs
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Oct 8, 2017 02:02
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Mister Kingdom posted:Might this help? going to have to grab one at autozone or something this coming week.
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Oct 8, 2017 02:25
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Leperflesh posted:
I just had exactly the same thing on my Smart car... went to Autozone and got slime patch plug kit ($4) and slime rubber cement ($6), put the plug on the tool and coated with cement, yanked bolt out with pliers and air started rushing out, jammed the tool in 2/3 of the way then yanked straight out, sealed up perfectly and instantly. Then I just trimmed the excess, and pumped my tire back up using my bicycle pump (smart car tires are pretty small so it only took like 60 seconds).
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Oct 8, 2017 02:41
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So, I took a closer look at the tires that came on my 85 Turismo and well, I'm pretty sure the sidewalls will explode if I even think about putting air in them, do I need to take all 4 off and go to the tire store or is there a better way?
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Oct 8, 2017 02:44
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Leperflesh posted:
you also have no thread left on your tire, replace all your tires before you kill someone.
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Oct 8, 2017 03:03
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Autoexec.bat posted:So, I took a closer look at the tires that came on my 85 Turismo and well, I'm pretty sure the sidewalls will explode if I even think about putting air in them, do I need to take all 4 off and go to the tire store or is there a better way? If you have jackstands and a second vehicle, it's absolutely the least risky option.
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Oct 8, 2017 03:23
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That's what I thought, I was just hoping someone knew of a way to get them changed at my house. I do in fact have another vehicle though. To be more specific I have 6
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Oct 8, 2017 04:05
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Technically you can pry them off with simple levers, but unless you've got some way of breaking the beads first, as well as a big enough compressor to reliably seat the new ones, you're probably better off letting the store do it. Plus a lot of places won't honor mileage warranties unless they install the tires, if that's a thing you're concerned about. E VV Totally meant to mention that, too. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Oct 8, 2017 |
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Oct 8, 2017 04:30
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Tires need to be balanced, too. Unless you already have a spin balancer, you're way ahead just letting a tire shop do it.
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Oct 8, 2017 04:34
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I guess I was kind of vague there, I have no intention of trying that myself especially with my bike pump being my only method of adding air . I'll yank em off and take em down to discount tire as originally planned when I get some cash together.
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Oct 8, 2017 04:36
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So...who makes the best coolant flush? 2012 Wrangler, 3.6L. After finding a bunch of sand/muck in the expansion tank after my heater stopped blowing cold on the driver's side (a very common problem that typically means the core is clogged), I replaced the radiator, heater core, thermostat, all the hoses and flushed a couple dozen gallons of water through the block. What a pain in the dick. Well, now that the weather is getting cold I want to use my heater...which is now completely indistinguishable from the "cold" setting. I've verified the blend door motor is working, and from actuating the door by hand it feels like it's moving inside the housing. No indication that it's binding. All I can think of is that the heater core's clogged again. gently caress replacing it again, so I want to dump something in the core to let it sit for a couple of days without eating the aluminum, flush the hell out of it, then repeat until hell freezes over. Is there anything better than the usual Prestone chemical flush? CLR isn't safe for aluminum.
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Oct 8, 2017 06:52
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Godholio posted:So...who makes the best coolant flush? If you have an air compressor and a water hose, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5ECRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_gcH2zbP4J5A7N
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Oct 8, 2017 12:50
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That is really cool.
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Oct 8, 2017 16:56
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As far as I'm concerned, a garden hose itself has enough pressure that I'll just wrap one end in electrical or duct tape enough and jam it in a radiator hose. 
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Oct 8, 2017 17:22
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Autoexec.bat posted:I guess I was kind of vague there, I have no intention of trying that myself especially with my bike pump being my only method of adding air Mobile tire service is A Thing but I'd expect it to cost a decent bit more than just going to Discount.
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Oct 8, 2017 17:34
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Driving today in my 1996 Camry, and I was at a light getting ready to take off and, when letting the clutch out, my foot slipped a little and nearly stalled the engine. I recovered quickly, but now the CEL flashes. There doesn't seem to be a pattern to the flashing. The car seems to be running okay and there's no weird noises coming from the engine. Have I hosed something up?
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Oct 8, 2017 18:00
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Mister Kingdom posted:Driving today in my 1996 Camry, and I was at a light getting ready to take off and, when letting the clutch out, my foot slipped a little and nearly stalled the engine. I recovered quickly, but now the CEL flashes. There doesn't seem to be a pattern to the flashing. The car seems to be running okay and there's no weird noises coming from the engine. Have I hosed something up? You probably should get a code reader and find out what the code is before anybody can diagnose anything.
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Oct 8, 2017 18:05
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Deteriorata posted:You probably should get a code reader and find out what the code is before anybody can diagnose anything. I'll have to dig mine out when I get back home today.
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Oct 8, 2017 18:07
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The dipstick tube on my wife's '09 Corolla (1.8L 2ZR-FE) broke right around where it bolts to the engine and I'm looking to replace it. I pulled the alternator to get to the mounting bracket and undid the bolt that holds it on and moved the wiring harness out of the way, but it seems really stuck in there. As far as I can tell, it's only held in by the bolt that I removed an o-ring at the engine, but the seal between the dipstick port on the engine and the dipstick itself is likely corroded if the state of the dipstick tube is any indication. I pulled on it pretty hard and it didn't really want to budge. I'm trying to avoid breaking it more if possible because if it breaks inside the engine I have to drop the pan and if I get chunks of broken dipstick tube in the pan then I'm going to have to change the oil again (I did it the first time it broke). Is there some sort of spray/solvent/salve/goop that I could put in there to loosen up the seal and pop this thing out? And is my trying to avoid changing the oil again just making my life more difficult?
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Oct 8, 2017 18:55
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2012 Subaru Outback, 81k miles. Is there an easy DIY fix for belt/pulley noise? I don't know exactly where it is originating, and I'm thinking of just leaving it with the mechanic.
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Oct 8, 2017 19:23
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Anyone have experience with replacing LCAs on a Cobalt? I'm working on an '07 for my sister's friend and the passenger side rear bolt spins without backing out. From what I've found online it's either a no longer captive cage nut holding the top of the bolt, or the LCA bushing has rusted to the bolt. Cobalt/GM forums are useless in providing a solution...any suggestions?
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Oct 8, 2017 20:09
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theHUNGERian posted:2012 Subaru Outback, 81k miles. Is there an easy DIY fix for belt/pulley noise? I don't know exactly where it is originating, and I'm thinking of just leaving it with the mechanic. Once a belt squeaks it will keep doing it for the most part because it glazes the belt. So it could just be old and swapping it will be fine. If that doesnt fix it its probably a bad bearing on one of the accessories making the racket not the belt. Id listen around for any ticking or buzzing or chirps. Something might be out of alignment but thats also probably bad bearings if so. And if its not the original belt some brands ride different on the pulley because they are slighty thicker or thinner than oem and it can cause it as well. Hand turning all the accsessories with the belt off would probably catch whatever is causing it too. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Oct 8, 2017 |
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Oct 8, 2017 20:36
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DogonCrook posted:Once a belt squeaks it will keep doing it for the most part because it glazes the belt. So it could just be old and swapping it will be fine. If that doesnt fix it its probably a bad bearing on one of the accessories making the racket not the belt. Id listen around for any ticking or buzzing or chirps. Something might be out of alignment but thats also probably bad bearings if so. And if its not the original belt some brands ride different on the pulley because they are slighty thicker or thinner than oem and it can cause it as well. Hand turning all the accsessories with the belt off would probably catch whatever is causing it too. All of these things. Is it the original belt?
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Oct 8, 2017 20:41
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