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MrYenko posted:All of these things. To the best of my knowledge, yes. I'll just leave it with the mechanic as that block of text was over my head. I was hoping for a "apply lubricant at these spots"-kind of reply.
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Oct 8, 2017 20:57
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Well theres anti sqeek poo poo for belts. Its a temporary gimmick fix but if you put it on and its still squeeking its probably not the belt. If it works you can probably just swap the belt.
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Oct 8, 2017 21:09
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DogonCrook posted:Well theres anti sqeek poo poo for belts. Its a temporary gimmick fix but if you put it on and its still squeeking its probably not the belt. If it works you can probably just swap the belt. If the squeaking were just a nuisance, I'd give it a try. But if there's a chance that expensive things could break, I better have somebody look at it.
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Oct 8, 2017 21:15
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Mister Kingdom posted:Driving today in my 1996 Camry, and I was at a light getting ready to take off and, when letting the clutch out, my foot slipped a little and nearly stalled the engine. I recovered quickly, but now the CEL flashes. There doesn't seem to be a pattern to the flashing. The car seems to be running okay and there's no weird noises coming from the engine. Have I hosed something up? Like a steady flashing? Stop driving it until you can get the codes.
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Oct 8, 2017 22:01
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wargames posted:you also have no thread left on your tire, replace all your tires before you kill someone. thanks for worrying but the rears are much newer already posted that I bought new tires for the fronts you may need to recalibrate your cellphone picture tread wear eyeballing meter, there's still ~15% tread depth above the wear bars on the fronts I would never drive on bald tires and often point out to others when their tires are too worn
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Oct 8, 2017 22:23
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Godholio posted:Like a steady flashing? Stop driving it until you can get the codes. It would flash for a while, then stop for a while, and then flash some more. I pulled these codes: P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire P0100 - IAT Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction
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Oct 8, 2017 23:00
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The misfire makes sense but the temp sensor doesnt. Its probably unrelated to what happened. Id check the connection on it and if it wont clear the code swap it. Maybe a ground came lose or something when the engine bucked. Was the iat a pending code?
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Oct 9, 2017 00:45
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Also is that a car specific code because im seeing maf sensor and if thats the case its probably just triggered a flag becuase the co2 sensors picked up something wildly out of range with what the maf detected coming into the engine.
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Oct 9, 2017 00:50
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DogonCrook posted:Was the iat a pending code? How would I be able to tell?
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Oct 9, 2017 01:09
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Some scanners tell you. Anything that trips the light is i guess a full on code but sometimes the computer keeps an eye on a sensor that gave some weird readings but is otherwise fine. While its pending it will keep checking to see if it needs to alert you or if it doesnt happen again it clears. It basically does it that way so you wont freak out over a one time malfunction or hiccup. Basically if the second is a pending code its mostly likely that the event just caused the computer to watch that sensor because for a minute there it was reading way out of whack. When it misfires it measured the air coming in but when it sniffed the gasses coming out of the exhaust its saying "wait a minute if x amount of air came in, why is there all these unburnt gases coming out? It assumes the sensor lied basically so its waiting to see if its gonna pop up again in x amount of drive cycles and if it does then it throws the full code. Not all cars are programmed the exact same but thats generally how it works. Id suspect both threw a code, i kinda doubt a scanner would show a pending code without notifying you that it was pending but ive only used a couple different scanners. Anyways id reset the computer and see if it comes back. I think there is a startup test a maf sensor can fail that would trigger a code instantly but ive never actually seen one fail that way. Generally the readings just drift till they are useless at idle. I mean if the maf is bad its gonna run like poo poo so you would definetly notice it running different. If its the iat thats bad it will also run like poo poo especially when the engine is cold. If its running fine theres probably nothing actually wrong. A solid steady idle after startup is probably impossible with either of those sensors out of whack.
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Oct 9, 2017 01:58
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DogonCrook posted:Anyways id reset the computer and see if it comes back. I'll do that tomorrow.
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Oct 9, 2017 02:00
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sarcastx posted:Anything else I should look at "while we're here"? I think I covered the bases pretty well but....? Car threw a P0358 today which is ignition system related on cylinder 8 so now it looks like ignition coils are possible along with the spark plugs..... /sigh. Thoughts?
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Oct 9, 2017 02:40
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Sockser posted:WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY TRUCK Update: took it to a transmission shop, took them three days but they finally took a look at it. Valve body is seized up, throttle cable running to the trans is stuck all the way out which explains my shifting and revving issues. Found lots of crud in the pan and everything, they wanna do a full rebuild of my trans for $1600. With what I paid for the truck (3000) this would still kind of be worth it, but I want to make sure I'm not being taken for a ride here. Should I just ask them to flush the fluid and clean it up and call some other shops or what's the goon consensus? E: I'm open to working on it myself but that's a little difficult since I live in the city and I don't think people would be cool with me doing transmission work in the middle of Philly. Or maybe they would, this city confuses me a lot of times. And since my last post, when I took it to the trans shop, it wouldn't even shift to second so getting it to my parents or my girlfriends parents is pretty doubtful. Sockser fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Oct 9, 2017 |
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Oct 9, 2017 04:38
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Shiny sand is fine chunks are real bad and its toast. Really doesnt matter what the source is if it ran with chunks in there its done. Itll embed itself in the softer metals in bearings and whatnot so you cant really flush it out. I mean it sounds about right to me and that price isnt that bad either with a warranty. Id maybe shop around for price just to see though.
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Oct 9, 2017 06:34
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Mister Kingdom posted:P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire This is what's causing it to flash. First guess is the ignition coil on that cylinder is making GBS threads the bed. Might try swapping coils between two cylinders, driving a bit, and seeing if the code follows the coil. If it does, depending how much you like the car, grab a used coil from a junkyard, a cheap coil from Amazon, a full set of cheap coils, an OEM coil, or a full set of OEM coils (Rockauto will be much cheaper than the dealer). There may also be water in the spark plug well, shorting out the coil. It could be something else, but those are the most likely culprits. Also, you're destroying what's left of the catalytic converter and oxygen sensor(s) when you drive it with it flashing. Likely diluting the oil a bit with gasoline too, if any is making it past the rings on that cylinder. So this is something you need to fix ASAP. theHUNGERian posted:To the best of my knowledge, yes. Most car makers recommend replacing the serpentine belt anywhere from every 50-100k, so you're right at that mileage where it should be done soon anyway. Owner's manual for my car recommends replacement every 100k... the original shredded at 101k.  Sockser posted:Update: took it to a transmission shop, took them three days but they finally took a look at it. Valve body is seized up, throttle cable running to the trans is stuck all the way out which explains my shifting and revving issues. Found lots of crud in the pan and everything, they wanna do a full rebuild of my trans for $1600. With what I paid for the truck (3000) this would still kind of be worth it, but I want to make sure I'm not being taken for a ride here. Should I just ask them to flush the fluid and clean it up and call some other shops or what's the goon consensus? $1600 isn't bad for a rebuild, so long as you're getting a good warranty (ask if it's a nationwide warranty or just that shop, check Yelp reviews, avoid Aamco, etc). That would be a kickdown cable that's stuck, not throttle (though they are related in a way), but that'll gently caress a tranny in a hurry. If you ever tow or plan to tow, you might ask them about beefing it up a little bit. It wouldn't hurt anything except your wallet to have them change the fluid and fix the kickdown cable and see if it drives - worth a shot, worst case you're still getting it rebuilt. But if they really found a lot of crud in the pan, it's rebuild or replace time anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Oct 9, 2017 |
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Oct 9, 2017 06:39
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You can't use fix-a-flat on cars that have TPMS, right?
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Oct 9, 2017 16:18
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CornHolio posted:You can't use fix-a-flat on cars that have TPMS, right? You certainly can. You can also fill the fuel tank with Great Stuff.
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Oct 9, 2017 16:21
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Not sure this is the thread for this, but idk what other thread would be: Anyone have any experience mobile refueling companies? So far it seems like a racket, especially one in Atlanta. Is this a real thing or are they all full of poo poo? One BBB review, the website barely works and can't find anything legit on them so wondering if anyone else knows anything more about it.
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Oct 9, 2017 16:22
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life is killing me posted:Not sure this is the thread for this, but idk what other thread would be: Imagine how lazy your life has become if spending 5 minutes at the gas station has lead you down the road of googling mobile refueling.
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Oct 9, 2017 16:27
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Incidentally, it was more about not being able to get into a gas station without waiting an hour not long ago when people started freaking out about gas availability after the hurricane in Houston. It's not that bad now other than gas prices having gone up, but was googling the gently caress out of it at the time, not gonna lie.
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Oct 9, 2017 16:38
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They're definitely real things. I know a couple people that live on the water and use them to fuel their boat, because even after delivery, it's still cheaper than fuel at the dock. The service is tailored to much larger volumes than filling a car or truck.
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Oct 9, 2017 16:44
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Mister Kingdom posted:Might this help? Did this and still getting incorrect readings from my fuel gauge.
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Oct 9, 2017 16:58
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MrYenko posted:They're definitely real things. I know a couple people that live on the water and use them to fuel their boat, because even after delivery, it's still cheaper than fuel at the dock. The service is tailored to much larger volumes than filling a car or truck. Thanks, appreciate the actual answer.
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Oct 9, 2017 17:01
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wargames posted:Did this and still getting incorrect readings from my fuel gauge. Bummer. Good luck then.
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Oct 9, 2017 21:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:This is what's causing it to flash. I cleared the codes, but the P0110 returned. I'm taking it to a shop this week.
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Oct 9, 2017 22:39
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Where in hell / Australia do I get bonnet straps or something like it from? I don't want these ones:  I've used them before and they are poo poo. The hook bit is soft, and the rubber perishes and separates in a few months. My Niva is encountering an inevitable bonnet catch related issue. In my case the nylon cable sheath shattered. The usual fix, preventative even is to remove the bonnet catch and put straps on, because dealing with a catch issue is an absolute motherfucker. Suggestions are appreciated. I looked around town and nobody seems to have any of any description. I'd even fit pins if I had the remotest idea how to do it. The bonnet pivots from the front and it's a kind of clamshell I guess so it's a bit of a bitch to work with.
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Oct 9, 2017 23:45
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Hood pins are easy. If theres a place to put two posts you just mount the post and put grease on the pins or something and shut the hood on them lightly to mark where to drill. Im sure theres tons of YouTube's its a pretty easy job. Other than that all i know of are leather straps which can look cool but im not familiar with that car or if it would be absurd lol.
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Oct 10, 2017 00:26
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General_Failure posted:Where in hell / Australia do I get bonnet straps or something like it from?
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Oct 10, 2017 00:35
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I spent ages trying every incantation I could think of before hitting across the right one. Some things are so drat hard to find because they take many names and are used for many things. I think these will do the job. I bought a pair. Straps were something I considered, only a little less pleasing to the eye. I was thinking of using a cheap tiedown hooked into the wheel arches with something shoved behind the ratchet to minimise damage to the bodywork. At least temporarily. I may still need to do this. Got to tow the trailer tomorrow, and that's not something I'm willing to do without access to the engine bay.
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Oct 10, 2017 00:59
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General_Failure posted:Where in hell / Australia do I get bonnet straps or something like it from? Don't have any jeeps in junkyards?
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Oct 10, 2017 01:52
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EightBit posted:Don't have any jeeps in junkyards? Short answer, no. Also even if there was I'd be looking at a 200km round trip to the nearest one, which isn't cost or time efficient. So now I just have to wait. I can replace the sheath with a normal spiral wound metal thing but I'm not sure I want to. e: Doesn't really matter now but you can see the shape of it here:  There's nothing really suitable under the back for pins. The spare wheel is in the way on the left. The wiper motor and assorted junk, wiring, compliance plates etc on the right. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 10, 2017 02:11
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Most car makers recommend replacing the serpentine belt anywhere from every 50-100k, so you're right at that mileage where it should be done soon anyway. That's exactly what it was, $90 cost in total. 
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Oct 10, 2017 02:18
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Mazda 323 2003 1.8 manual. Had a flat battery over the weekend and since having it replaced the owner has noticed it's a bit harder to start (takes a few more seconds of cranking) and that the trip computer is resetting every time it's turned on. Car belongs to a friend of mine, and I'm not going to get a chance to look at it until Thursday so if it was something as easy as "it probably blew (x) fuse" I can direct him otherwise I'll check it out in a few days.
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Oct 10, 2017 03:57
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That certainly sounds like a blown fuse and an ECU having to re-learn how to ECU (which they have to do after the battery has been disconnected.. but it should be a one time thing, unless there's a blown fuse). Check fuse #14 (ENGINE in the diagram) in the interior fuse box. I'm betting that's the ECU backup fuse. Should have a 10 amp. Is everything else in the car working properly? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 10, 2017 04:51
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I'll ask, those were the only things he reported but that might be all he noticed.
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Oct 10, 2017 05:05
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In particular, ask if the radio is losing its settings (presets, etc). The constant +12V for them is often (but not always) tied into the same fuse as the ECU's constant +12V.
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Oct 10, 2017 06:02
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I'm putting a reman engine in my Astro van and noticed little brown pucks in each water channel before the water pump. They're apparently Barr's stop leak tablets and according to dudes in jalopy journal, a standard thing gm does. Any harm in leaving them out? I don't understand why a new engine needs gunk in its cooling system.
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Oct 10, 2017 09:37
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:In particular, ask if the radio is losing its settings (presets, etc). The constant +12V for them is often (but not always) tied into the same fuse as the ECU's constant +12V. My friend texted me and said "I don't know what a "ROOM" fuse is but it was blown. Oh yeah and the cabin light and the central locking weren't working either but now they're fine". Thanks again!
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Oct 10, 2017 10:02
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That.... was gonna be my third or fourth guess, but I was assuming Mazda ran the ECU memory power through the, well, ECU fuse. The "room" fuse seems to cut power to basically everything inside the car if the ignition isn't on, going by the diagrams I found. I've never owned a Mazda, so...... I wasn't sure if the trip odometer was something stored by the ECU or cluster on that. Since the (basically everything inside the car not related to power windows or HVAC) one fuse affected it, I guess it's stored in the cluster instead. Glad he figured it out! Now it's time to figure out why it blew.  (maybe interior lights left on when new battery hooked up? maybe new battery hooked up backwards very briefly, only enough to pop a fuse or two? who knows! probably not worth trying to chase if it doesn't pop again..)
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 10, 2017 11:24
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97 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4, 240 000 kms. tl/dr: wierd surging in my truck at idle, sometimes the revs fall down so far the engine stops. My battery has been iffy for a while, and on the weekend it wouldn't start - clicking noises, lights and radio come on, but no turns. I called CAA, he gave it a boost and tested my battery, and pronounced it "OK, but low on charge". The negative connector was very corroded, and the two black wires going into it were loose and floppy. I drove it the recommended 30 minutes and then when I came out of the post office, it was completely dead. I discovered the negative connector was actually VERY corroded and loose, but I managed to bash it onto the battery post and the truck started no problem. I have since replaced the connector with a shiny new one that might not be gripping the post quite right; I'm gonna bash it with a mallet this evening. Hitting my truck with a hammer is satisfying, and occassionally produces results. The other issue, which I don't know if it's related to the battery, has been an odd surging it does sporadically, often when the engine is cold but sometimes after it's been running for a while. At idle, it will rev up to 1500, then drop down to 500, then back up and down taking maybe 10 seconds to go from top to bottom and back up again. Sometimes it goes slower, like down to 200, and over the weekend it actually stopped completely, twice. I can push on the throttle and keep the revs at 1500, but if I let my foot off it goes back to this weird surging. I've looked for vacuum leaks but haven't found any. My plan is to check the fuses tonight and try to secure the battery connections properly. Presumably, the repeated loss of all electrical power has caused some (temporary?) problems and the computer might just need some time to sort itself out. The spark plugs are a mixed set, with two new ones (of different brands) and four older ones (2.5 years) after my clumsy attempts to fix a misfire a few months ago. tl/dr: wierd surging in my truck at idle, sometimes the revs fall down so far the engine stops. Besides fuses, is there anything else you would suggest I look for?
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Oct 10, 2017 15:51
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