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monolithburger posted:Yep! I have one, and it's literally just a switch to engage a separate tone circuit that makes mellow plonky jazz sounds. Change the rhythm tone pot out for a mini 500K or 250K pot and it'll be a lot more usable. Having two 1M pots in the rhythm circuit and two 250K in the main circuit then wiring them to both pickups so you can switch between them is one of the most useful mods to offsets IMO. The second most useful is a series/parallel switch.
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Oct 23, 2017 22:42
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I installed some locking tuners over the weekend and everything seems to have went well but when I restrung it, both the B and high E string each ended up being wrapped around their posts once by the time I finished tuning up. Is this going to cause any issues? It's an Ibanez guitar with the 6 tuners being in line, the B and high E strings are the furthest ones away from the bridge and there aren't any string trees, if that makes a difference. I've played a bit on it and haven't noticed anything going out of tune so I'm guessing it's fine but I'd just like to get some second opinions, thanks.
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Oct 24, 2017 01:29
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It’s fine. Strings will be more stressed at your nut than your tuners
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Oct 24, 2017 01:38
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darkwasthenight posted:Change the rhythm tone pot out for a mini 500K or 250K pot and it'll be a lot more usable. Having two 1M pots in the rhythm circuit and two 250K in the main circuit then wiring them to both pickups so you can switch between them is one of the most useful mods to offsets IMO. The second most useful is a series/parallel switch. I'm still on the fence with the extra wizardry, and it doesn't help that I know precious little about even basic electronics. I like the idea of the JT100s for sure, but I'll see if I can get out and play a Jazzmaster and the Jaguar again.
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Oct 24, 2017 02:52
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its curtains for Kevin posted:It’s fine. Strings will be more stressed at your nut than your tuners Hayooooo.
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Oct 24, 2017 03:24
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I noticed a weird thing on my Ascari. When I play the A or D strings there's a buzzy rattle, even when played open. But it only happens when the guitar is up vertical (standing position) to about 45 degrees. If it's flatter than that there's no buzz. Frets are good, nothing buzzes out normally. Maybe it's always been like this and I've never noticed? It still plays and notes ring out. There's just a weird buzz. This is acoustic, not plugged in, so not an electronics thing. Any ideas on what this could be?
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Oct 24, 2017 04:03
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syntaxfunction posted:I noticed a weird thing on my Ascari. When I play the A or D strings there's a buzzy rattle, even when played open. But it only happens when the guitar is up vertical (standing position) to about 45 degrees. If it's flatter than that there's no buzz. Could be badly coupled loose hardware. Play those notes while touching everything you can think off. Truss rod cover, tuners, bridge parts, pots, pickguard. It could also be in the electronics as well like a wire rattling against something.
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Oct 24, 2017 04:13
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nitsuga posted:So changing scale length on any instrument is a no go (24" or 25.5", one way or the other)? This is more curiosity than anything. I've been playing a 25.5" for quite a while, so my muscle memory is probably more attuned to that. For what it's worth, I'd been playing 25.5" scale length for 15 or 16 years before getting my Jaguar and changing between them doesn't bother me at all. Other differences between guitars like fret height and neck thickness stand out more to me. My Jaguar's a modified Fender American Professional (Novak pickups, Staytrem bridge, locking tuners, wired with the classic controls instead of the new ones). I also have a Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster--I haven't played the Vintage Modified, but I'd highly highly recommend the J Mascis if you're looking for a JM. The controls make sense after playing with them for a bit, so I wouldn't let that put you off.
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Oct 24, 2017 04:51
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Gonna throw this out for replies, but I kinda think I know what to do. Not sure, I welcome advice: So I bought this ridiculously expensive 2017 Fender Elite Stratocaster. Most important details are: It has a two-pivot trem with block saddles that seem to have little rollers for the strings to bend over. It has Fender's "simulated bone" nut. It has locking tuners, all the lowest height available so: It has a string tree for just the high E and B strings. I don't go crazy with the bar because I only have hard tails and double-locking trems, except for this one guitar. I use it to gently shake pretty chords and nothing more, just gentle vibrato. Problem: Tuning stability. I see no problems except for the B string. Sometimes it gets stuck sharp. Sometimes it gets stuck flat. If I tune for one or the other, it eventually goes the other way. Solution: I am thinking I need to do two things: Put some graphite in the nut slot for the B string, and maybe run the string back and forth in there for awhile to rub away some material to make the .014" B string settle in. Am I on the right track here? I love this guitar and holy poo poo is it expensive. I always knew to expect tuning issues with a basic non-locking vibrato bridge, but for the money I'd like it to be stable. Please advise.
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Oct 24, 2017 05:06
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Dr. Faustus posted:Please advise. could be leftover material from when the slot was cut causing the string to bind up dip some floss in naptha and clean out any gunk that might be in there, then try running a piece of automotive sandpaper like 1000+ grit in the slot a couple times
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Oct 24, 2017 05:22
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Kilometers Davis posted:Could be badly coupled loose hardware. Play those notes while touching everything you can think off. Truss rod cover, tuners, bridge parts, pots, pickguard. It could also be in the electronics as well like a wire rattling against something. Thanks. I tried everything but it still buzzes at that angle, and buzzes louder the harder you pluck. Also, if I play the two strings together they both buzz louder (sympathetically?). I am super confused. Plugged in there's no buzz coming through the amp. All hardware is solid so I guess it might be a wire or something but it sounds distinctly metallic? I am confused.
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Oct 24, 2017 11:32
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The Muppets On PCP posted:could be leftover material from when the slot was cut causing the string to bind up Also try this on the string tree beyond the nut.
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Oct 24, 2017 12:36
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Any Blackstar HT-5 users ever replaced the power tube? If so, is it plug and play, or does it need to be biased?
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Oct 24, 2017 14:03
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betterinsodapop posted:Any Blackstar HT-5 users ever replaced the power tube? The 12BH7 tube needs to be biased. There are two internal trimpots and some bias points.
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Oct 24, 2017 14:24
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:The 12BH7 tube needs to be biased. There are two internal trimpots and some bias points. Background: I accidentally lefty my amp on standby (and not "off") for about 3 days. I've also had the amp for more than 5 years, so was wondering it would be worth retubing. While the clean channel still sounds clean/good, the gain channel sounds really dark/muddy.
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Oct 24, 2017 14:45
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betterinsodapop posted:Ah, thanks. What about the pre-amp tube, the 12AX7? I'm reading that one maybe much simpler to replace. Those are self-biasing.
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Oct 24, 2017 14:52
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betterinsodapop posted:Ah, thanks. What about the pre-amp tube, the 12AX7? I'm reading that one maybe much simpler to replace. Solution: sell the amp as "vintage" to a Stoner Metal band and use the money to buy a new one.
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Oct 24, 2017 15:02
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If I can replace the Blackstar logo with a Marhsall logo, it just might work... Then I can buy a Fender Bassbreaker...
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Oct 24, 2017 15:09
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betterinsodapop posted:If I can replace the Blackstar logo with a Matamp logo, it just might work... fixxxxed it
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Oct 24, 2017 15:13
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syntaxfunction posted:Thanks. I tried everything but it still buzzes at that angle, and buzzes louder the harder you pluck. Also, if I play the two strings together they both buzz louder (sympathetically?). I am super confused. Plugged in there's no buzz coming through the amp. All hardware is solid so I guess it might be a wire or something but it sounds distinctly metallic? I am confused. I have no idea if this is really a thing but I’ve seen people mention something similar in regards to an issue with the truss rod. If I was you I would check to see if it’s a wire inside and then drop it off with a good tech since they see pretty much everything.
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Oct 24, 2017 17:04
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syntaxfunction posted:I noticed a weird thing on my Ascari. When I play the A or D strings there's a buzzy rattle, even when played open. But it only happens when the guitar is up vertical (standing position) to about 45 degrees. If it's flatter than that there's no buzz. Might not hurt to just go over your whole guitar with a screwdriver and an allan wrench, checking everything. If that doesn't fix it, try spraying a lot of superglue on the entire guitar. Kidding do not do that trust me.
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Oct 24, 2017 17:32
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Spanish Manlove posted:Also try this on the string tree beyond the nut. String tree is my guess for the culprit. After it goes out, try pushing the string along the headstock down a little bit just so it's off the string tree and let it go back in and see if that sets it back in tune.
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Oct 24, 2017 18:05
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Hello! Just went through the OP and just thought write here for the first time. Went out last weekend and picked up my first acoustic guitar. I got a Solid Top Mahogany wood Ibanez, standard size with the cut out/divit on the right side of the neck (don't know what that style is called). It has an amp plug in and a tuner on the guitar itself. I made sure the tuner in the guitar was just as good as buying a separate tuner. I am really excited to be learning the guitar. My goal is to be able to play some soft rock, like Jack Johnson, for my kids and wife. I sing to my kids every night and thought having some music to go with it and give them good memories. Maybe be able to write my own lullaby at some point. Since getting the guitar I have been just working on finger placement. I played the bass in college and boy is it different. If I press with the pad of my finger I hit the neighboring strings. My index and middle finger are hitting the strings well. It is my ring and pinky finger that are struggling, especially on G and B strings. Is there anything I can do other than practicing every night to train my fingers to use close to the nail to avoid hitting neighboring strings? I plan on getting lessons at some point but don't know where to look. I got my guitar at Guitar Center but I don't think I should go to them for lessons. I see from the OP to get a metronome. Is any brand/type alright? May look for cheapest one on Amazon or something.
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Oct 24, 2017 18:31
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Whoever it was who mentioned Project Music for getting my bass nut filed down, cheers! String action at the nut is a lot nicer now and it was only £10.
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Oct 24, 2017 19:10
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Fixit posted:Since getting the guitar I have been just working on finger placement. I played the bass in college and boy is it different. If I press with the pad of my finger I hit the neighboring strings. My index and middle finger are hitting the strings well. It is my ring and pinky finger that are struggling, especially on G and B strings. Is there anything I can do other than practicing every night to train my fingers to use close to the nail to avoid hitting neighboring strings? There's nothing to do but practice fingering. Don't worry, you'll get it down. As for a metronome you can buy one but there are many a free app for PC or phone as well. Check out justinguitar.com and do his lessons. He has some chording exercises that will help you get started.
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Oct 24, 2017 19:20
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Fixit posted:Since getting the guitar I have been just working on finger placement. I played the bass in college and boy is it different. If I press with the pad of my finger I hit the neighboring strings. My index and middle finger are hitting the strings well. It is my ring and pinky finger that are struggling, especially on G and B strings. Is there anything I can do other than practicing every night to train my fingers to use close to the nail to avoid hitting neighboring strings? Plant your thumb in the middle of the back of the neck and arch your fingers so that the tips are perpendicular to fretboard. Try to position your fingers as close to the strings as possible to minimize the movement needed.(This is "classical" technique.) Angle the guitar neck up 45 degrees so you can keep your wrist straight to avoid carpal tunnel/RSI. You still have to practice playing on the tips of your fingers, and some people will tell you not to bother with proper technique because Hendrix used his thumb or whatever, but those people are wrong (you can always incorporate the thumb for fretting notes or bending-support *after* you get a solid proper technique down). This will be hard at first, especially on a steel string acoustic, but it will pay dividends in the future.
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Oct 24, 2017 19:37
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...and the pitch! posted:There's nothing to do but practice fingering. Don't worry, you'll get it down. That is a great idea!!! I will be looking at an app during lunch. Oh there are lessons on that site? I went to it and saw it was a timer for practicing, which normally I would use but I'm enjoying playing the guitar so I have been loosing track of time when practicing. Gnumonic posted:Plant your thumb in the middle of the back of the neck and arch your fingers so that the tips are perpendicular to fretboard. Try to position your fingers as close to the strings as possible to minimize the movement needed.(This is "classical" technique.) Angle the guitar neck up 45 degrees so you can keep your wrist straight to avoid carpal tunnel/RSI. You still have to practice playing on the tips of your fingers, and some people will tell you not to bother with proper technique because Hendrix used his thumb or whatever, but those people are wrong (you can always incorporate the thumb for fretting notes or bending-support *after* you get a solid proper technique down). This will be hard at first, especially on a steel string acoustic, but it will pay dividends in the future. Oh I will try placing the thumb that way. I was just letting it do whatever it did to get my finger tips on the strings. Will have to check if I have steel strings, no idea how to just by looking at it, but will check once I am home. Thanks! 
Fixit fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 19:49
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Dr. Faustus posted:Gonna throw this out for replies, but I kinda think I know what to do. Not sure, I welcome advice: Instead of graphite, try using Big Bends Nut Sauce (or Music Nomad's Tune-It or other equivalent). It's less than $10 and I use it every time I change strings now. You can use it on the bottom of the string tree, the nut, the saddle, and even the trem cavity (though I have not that one myself). I find it works well at reducing the amount of tuning I need to readily do. Another, perhaps more extreme option, is to see how the guitar fairs with the B string outside of the tree. Either place the string above the tree (which might not work), rotate the tree, or remove it all together. If the guitar can play without producing any weird sitar like noises or jumping out of the nut constantly, then you don't need it after all. I have a Standard Strat, and once I installed the staggered Fender locking tuners, I just removed the tree. Small hole there now, but probably better tuning stability on those two strings. Very rarely, the string will pop out of the nut, but it's not a big deal. EDIT: Also post pics of new guitar. StickySweater fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 20:02
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Fixit posted:Oh there are lessons on that site? I went to it and saw it was a timer for practicing, which normally I would use but I'm enjoying playing the guitar so I have been loosing track of time when practicing. https://www.justinguitar.com/en/BC-000-BeginnersCourse.php edit: he sells books and whatnot but there's a lot of free stuff on his site too.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:17
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Welp it looks like it's time to make a guitar out of a steel construction beam TONE FOR DAYS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFOAH685KYE
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Oct 24, 2017 20:26
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Wrath of Mordark posted:Whoever it was who mentioned Project Music for getting my bass nut filed down, cheers! No worries, its a decent shop and I'm glad they've continued to survive.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:50
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magnificent7 posted:Welp it looks like it's time to make a guitar out of a steel construction beam That dude's apartment is really nice.
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Oct 24, 2017 20:54
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Fixit posted:Will have to check if I have steel strings, no idea how to just by looking at it, but will check once I am home. "Steel stringed acoustic" usually means "an acoustic guitar that isn't a nylon stringed classical guitar". The actual strings might be steel, nickel, bronze (or some combination, alloy, etc), but they'll be equally unkind to your fingers for the first little bit. Also I'd listen to people telling you to learn technique. I originally learned all kinds of stuff wrong (not "van halen etc hendrix blah etc and therefore it's fine", just sloppy and bad), and while it might not matter for ages one day you'll have to un-learn something and it'll be way harder than just learning it right in the first place. Or worse, you'll start getting pains up your arm and it'll turn out that you're curling your wrist around funny and you can fix it by something horribly simple like (eg) holding the pick one of the ways a guitar teacher would show you told it instead of doing your own thing. E: speaking of acoustic, has anyone played a talman electric/acoustic? No store within 500km of me seems to carry them and they look kinda neat. e2: Best online lessons I've found are at justinguitar.com, I've used his stuff to correct several of the things I was messing up. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 22:20
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Fixit posted:Hello! Just went through the OP and just thought write here for the first time. I want to reiterate this: use justinguitar.com. Go through the beginner course from start to end. I've been playing since June and I know I wouldn't be anywhere near where I am without Justin. He doesn't just teach the techniques well, he understands the problems you're likely having and explains how to fix them (e.g. he talks all about how to avoid hitting the wrong strings).
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Oct 24, 2017 22:25
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AlphaDog posted:"Steel stringed acoustic" usually means "an acoustic guitar that isn't a nylon stringed classical guitar". The actual strings might be steel, nickel, bronze (or some combination, alloy, etc), but they'll be equally unkind to your fingers for the first little bit. Spatulater bro! posted:I want to reiterate this: use justinguitar.com. Go through the beginner course from start to end. I've been playing since June and I know I wouldn't be anywhere near where I am without Justin. He doesn't just teach the techniques well, he understands the problems you're likely having and explains how to fix them (e.g. he talks all about how to avoid hitting the wrong strings). I'm listening to him while working. Just listened to all the Getting Started section. I think I am going to struggle with finger tips because I am not used to that. By technique do you mean body posture, how my fingers are placed on the strings, and how the guitar sits on my leg? Because those seem really important to me and want to make sure I master that and make it second nature before moving on to complicated Jack Johnson songs. How long can I use Justin to learn the guitar before needing lessons with someone in person? Or can I skip in person stuff until I see family who have played guitar for 10+ years and get tips from them?
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Oct 24, 2017 22:41
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Fixit posted:How long can I use Justin to learn the guitar before needing lessons with someone in person? Or can I skip in person stuff until I see family who have played guitar for 10+ years and get tips from them? Experienced players are not necessarily good teachers. And while seeing a good teacher in person gives you feedback that you can't get any other way, seeing a bad teacher in person is probably worse than Justin (after all, they might just be an experienced player after some extra cash and not necessarily a good teacher...) and it's really hard to evaluate a teacher as a beginner. Get recommendations from local players if you can. But despite the risk of getting a bad teacher, if you have some spare cash for it then absolutely get lessons. A good teacher will accelerate your progress massively, and while they can be useful at any level you eventually get to, even more so at first because you won't even know that you're doing something wrong sometimes. If you haven't got the cash it's no big deal, you'll always have ways to improve just off his site and other Youtube videos. But without a teacher you'll almost certainly develop bad habits along the way. They won't make you a bad player all by themselves, and as mentioned there are and have been some incredible guitarists with terrible bad habits, but they will slow your progress down. Scikar fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 22:54
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I have had two terrible teachers. One in high school, provided by the school, who managed to make music boring in a "play this four note, two string riff 1000 times until it's perfect and then maybe you can think about learning a chord" way, and one a bit later on who wanted to teach me music theory when all I wanted to do was learn how to smash out some mid 90s pop punk. Second teacher got me to stop being an idiot about my fret-hand though. I should look her up now that I'm actually interested in learning theory. e: But to be clear, I'm not a good guitarist (I'd be surprised if I wasn't a fair bit worse than average in this thread) and there's every chance that I would be much better had I paid more attention to the second teacher, who really did seem to know her poo poo. The only reason I didn't continue was that we seemed to have different goals, I was bored by any mention of theory, and I was a teenager who was terrible at articulating why I didn't like a thing. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Oct 24, 2017 |
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Oct 24, 2017 23:11
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Fixit posted:I'm listening to him while working. Just listened to all the Getting Started section. I think I am going to struggle with finger tips because I am not used to that. Honestly you'll get used to it. The idea is that when you fret straight down onto the string, the rest of your finger is as far away from the other strings as possible. If you use the pad, or you're coming in at an angle, there's more chance of touching another string and muting it Obviously that's different to the bass approach where you're intentionally muting other strings (since you generally only want one to ring out). And the secret is, with guitar you eventually end up doing that too! But because you have multiple strings ringing out, you need to be able to make space with your fingers when necessary Acoustic is harder anyway, but give it a while and you'll have your chords ringing out all nice and clean
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Oct 24, 2017 23:24
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Haha holy poo poo. I just watched the justinguitar lesson on holding the pick. That's how I hold it now (after a friend showed me), and for years I'd assumed (e: and until just now was still assuming) that was wrong. My first teacher was a hardass about holding it "right", and his "right" way was the second thing Justin shows (mentioning "this is how it used to be done, I don't like it"), with the knuckle of the index finger pointing down. I have literally never been able to pick accurately like that.
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Oct 24, 2017 23:49
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Fixit posted:How long can I use Justin to learn the guitar before needing lessons with someone in person? Or can I skip in person stuff until I see family who have played guitar for 10+ years and get tips from them? I'm cheating a bit because I had a year of lessons like a 15 years ago - so I wasn't EXACTLY starting from scratch. But I've been playing for 10 months now, using almost entirely Justinguitar for my curriculum. I've finished the beginner course and the beginning rhythm supplemental course (RUST I), and I'm diving into his intermediate rhythm exercises now (the RUST II DVD). I do some other stuff too but the Justin stuff can really take you a lot of the way, and totally for free. A good teacher is great, and can provide feedback in a way Justin can't, but if you finish the beginner and intermediate courses you'll have a good basis for determining what you need to do next.
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Oct 25, 2017 01:20
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