|
If you are using a small drain auger, there could be a lot of build up on your main drain that a small auger isn't going to clean out. You could get a drain opener and buy the correct size C cutter attachment and really open up the drain main. For a 4 inch main, get something like a Ridgid K-400 along with a 3 inch C cutter. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-K-400-Drum-Machine-with-C-32-IW-Cable-52363/206405033 https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-52822-T-232-3-Inch-Cutter/dp/B001HW8EZ8 Do not be stupid like me and try to use a 4" C cutter in a 4" line, unless you are at the main cleanout and the drain has no bends, it will probably get stuck.
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 07:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:45 |
|
|
Nifty posted:Yeah its a duplex, so two machines. I was reading a general home repair book and came upon this photo. Here are two p traps right above one another on a vent line - how is that different/better than the added tee/p trap I am contemplating? This pictures wrong. You can't plumb like that anymore. Basically they wet vented there entire house where now you have to pull off the main drain line with vent that don't connect back into the drain part of the line. (if that makes sence, but its early ) If you cut in the tee with in 8 ft of the other one you most likely will get suds coming up. Also if its a rental I wouldn't really gently caress with it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 13:08
|
|
|
Nifty posted:
IMHO that 1.25"-1.5" ID galvanized drain line, even if brand-new & clean as a whistle. is not of sufficient size to handle two machines draining at once. The "simplest" solution is to install another drain standpipe elsewhere on the lateral. Based on your photo, that would be a real bitch.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 18:54
|
|
|
We got our (25 year old) water heater replaced yesterday and now we're barely getting any water out of the bath faucet. Every other faucet is working fine. The guy who installed the water heater wasn't a plumber (some company that only does water heater installations), but said that he think's it's because some debris in our pipes got dislodged during the installation. Our house is going on 70 years old and the little plumbing I've seen has been galvanized, so it seems plausible (to me, a layman). Does this all seem accurate? We're having a real plumber come out next week to take a look but I'm already bracing myself at the possibility of having to replumb the house.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 22:49
|
|
|
beepsandboops posted:We got our (25 year old) water heater replaced yesterday and now we're barely getting any water out of the bath faucet. Every other faucet is working fine. Eww, galvanized. That will need to be replaced eventually. As for your faucet, try taking off the aerator first. If you mean the bathtub faucet, turn off the water and pull out the stems/cartridge. Clean out the gunk inside, then pull the curtain shut and barely turn the water on just for a little bit to help clear the lines right there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2017 23:55
|
|
|
We had to replace out kitchen faucet and this was the one that was picked out at HD (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Classic-Single-Handle-Standard-Kitchen-Faucet-with-Side-Sprayer-in-Chrome-400-DST/100686506). We also have a maytag portable dishwasher. The old faucet we just left the dishwasher adapter on (no aerator) and enough water flowed out that we didn't care. However, this new faucet has a narrow stream that blasts out at light speed without an aerator making it useless to use while the dishwasher attachment is installed. I don't want to keep swapping in and out the adapters because it doesn't quite fit onto the new faucet that well and sprays water everywhere like a fountain so I can imagine it will only get worse. Do they make any snap on aerators that will click into place onto the dishwasher adapter much like the dishwasher hookups will? Maybe they make an adapter to replace my side sprayer? Any other suggestions? I'd like a solution that the gf can do her self so I don't have to be the one to always be around to start the dishwasher by wrenching on and off this adapter piece.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2017 00:19
|
|
|
knowonecanknow posted:We had to replace out kitchen faucet and this was the one that was picked out at HD (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Classic-Single-Handle-Standard-Kitchen-Faucet-with-Side-Sprayer-in-Chrome-400-DST/100686506). We also have a maytag portable dishwasher. The old faucet we just left the dishwasher adapter on (no aerator) and enough water flowed out that we didn't care. However, this new faucet has a narrow stream that blasts out at light speed without an aerator making it useless to use while the dishwasher attachment is installed. I don't want to keep swapping in and out the adapters because it doesn't quite fit onto the new faucet that well and sprays water everywhere like a fountain so I can imagine it will only get worse. Do you have stop valves under that sink? If so, turn them down a little then leave the dishwasher adapter always on. Also, those adapters suck, but they are universal. You might need a new one with new threads, or get a new rubber washer for your old one. No, they don't make adapters to replace the side sprayer. You could cap off your sprayer line, then install a tee on your hot water line and a single temperature faucet in that sprayer hole, but single temp faucets are typically found in commercial kitchens and labs and will cost more than the one you just bought.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2017 21:16
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Do you have stop valves under that sink? If so, turn them down a little then leave the dishwasher adapter always on. Also, those adapters suck, but they are universal. You might need a new one with new threads, or get a new rubber washer for your old one. Thanks for the advice.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2017 22:19
|
|
|
I think I have a dumb plumbing question - the house I'm living in has one of those shower drains that you push down on to change the state - push down, it's closed, push down again, it's open. It also: Leaks when it's "closed", doesn't drain very fast when it's "open", and doesn't have any markings that would let me find the manufacturer to find a manual. I tried unscrewing the top, but was not able to remove the stopper. (I'm figuring step one is clear whatever is in there to get it draining acceptably, then step two is figure out why it's leaking while closed.) Is there a dumb thing that I'm missing? Should I be yanking on it with ChannelLocks? I'm relatively mechanically competent (I can fix cars) but know basically nothing about houses/plumbing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2017 05:10
|
|
|
Quick question, the water supply pipe for my house seems to be 3/4"... is this enough for a 2-3 unit house? It is currently 2 family (3 baths), but I'm thinking of finishing the basement and making that into another unit. Is it a big deal to have the supply plumbing upgraded if it's coming in through a single pipe through the basement wall? Guess I'm wondering what the total GPM I can expect from an urban area is.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 00:46
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:I think I have a dumb plumbing question - the house I'm living in has one of those shower drains that you push down on to change the state - push down, it's closed, push down again, it's open. Should twist out at the base but post a picture. Zero VGS posted:Quick question, the water supply pipe for my house seems to be 3/4"... is this enough for a 2-3 unit house? It is currently 2 family (3 baths), but I'm thinking of finishing the basement and making that into another unit. Is it a big deal to have the supply plumbing upgraded if it's coming in through a single pipe through the basement wall? Guess I'm wondering what the total GPM I can expect from an urban area is. GPM is based on pressure and volume (pipe size) But if you want to run another bathroom then you will need 1 inch most likely.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 01:24
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I have a threaded L joint that has a leak. It's not a huge leak but it is under pressure so was spraying out. Is there any way I can patch the joint with a compound without having to unthread the joint? Way back in March/April I used a thread seal tape on this leak and it held with no leaks till I finally got it proper fixed by plumber yesterday. He was even surprised that it was not leaking at all. Just thought I would share.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 20:02
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:I tried unscrewing the top, but was not able to remove the stopper. (I'm figuring step one is clear whatever is in there to get it draining acceptably, then step two is figure out why it's leaking while closed.) There's a small screw under the lift-up part that can be turned to loosen. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 04:36
|
|
|
Zahgaegun posted:There's a small screw under the lift-up part that can be turned to loosen. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver. The most accurate cross section of a family sink if I've ever seen it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 12:33
|
|
|
knowonecanknow posted:The most accurate cross section of a family sink if I've ever seen it. That would be the cleanest hairball I ever pulled out of a drain by far. Also I'm getting a chuckle out of picturing the intern setting up that photo by painstakingly threading individual hairs through a drain cross-section.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 14:49
|
|
|
One Day Fish Sale posted:That would be the cleanest hairball I ever pulled out of a drain by far. I pulled out a hairball that made my son gag ha ha
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 01:32
|
|
|
I'm redoing my bathroom, and I made a dumb unforced error - I've finished tiling the shower surround, but the pipe that should connect to the tub spigot is about a half inch too short, which is incredibly frustrating. As you can see in the picture below, the copper pipe is roughly flush with the tile, and it needs to stick out about a half inch to receive a brass adapter thing that my tub spigot screws onto: Alas, that fucker is soldered on, so I can't simply remove it and put in a longer nipple. It's a 1/2 inch copper pipe, and I've tried explaining my sitch to the folks at Home Depot who were useless. I need some kind of adapter, coupling, or fitting that will extend this thing at least a half inch and that ends in a threaded half inch male pipe so I can attach this loving adapter thing. I've googled as well and don't see anything that fits the bill that's 1/2 inch - I see reducers and I see 1 inch female to male brass, but not half inch. Am I hosed? Should I just cobble together what I can and solder some contraption together? String together a reducer and an enlarger? Sub Par fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Oct 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 00:27
|
|
|
Sub Par posted:I'm redoing my bathroom, and I made a dumb unforced error - I've finished tiling the shower surround, but the pipe that should connect to the tub spigot is about a half inch too short, which is incredibly frustrating. As you can see in the picture below, the copper pipe is roughly flush with the tile, and it needs to stick out about a half inch to receive a brass adapter thing that my tub spigot screws onto: Those are new tiles? WTF is that poo poo all over them? Can you fit anything inside that fitting, and just solder it in? Like https://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/p/1-2-copper-tube-size-extension-nipple-adapter-kit-for-tub-spout-p845045 devicenull fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Oct 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 00:28
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Those are new tiles? WTF is that poo poo all over them? It's thinset, I took the picture about 40 minutes after we finished tiling while we were still in the process of wiping up the excess.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 00:34
|
|
|
Sub Par posted:I'm redoing my bathroom, and I made a dumb unforced error - I've finished tiling the shower surround, but the pipe that should connect to the tub spigot is about a half inch too short, which is incredibly frustrating. As you can see in the picture below, the copper pipe is roughly flush with the tile, and it needs to stick out about a half inch to receive a brass adapter thing that my tub spigot screws onto: There are 3 types of mounts for tub spouts. Can you take yours back and get different one? You might be able to just do a coupler and a nipple to do the long nipple type. Just for the record, what's on the other side of that wall?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 01:07
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Just for the record, what's on the other side of that wall? One would hope that there's some kind of access...
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
Thanks guys. The other side of the wall is the office closet. There is not easy access, but you can tell that a previous homeowner accessed the pipes that way and patched it with drywall. It would be trivial to get at it. I ended up going to a plumbing specialty store and got a brass thing that works perfectly. Thanks for bearing with me and my idiocy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 04:40
|
|
|
knowonecanknow posted:The most accurate cross section of a family sink if I've ever seen it. My wife: "I don't understand what you mean, I lose hardly any hair in the shower" I pull out a ready to go merkin on the end of my screwdriver.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2017 07:44
|
|
|
I need to add two supply lines for a humidifier and a freezer ice maker. Both would be tee'd off of existing lines and would use 1/4" copper tubing. I'd like a shutoff valve for each one, too. I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly what sort of fittings I need to assemble to make this happen, though. I think this is what I want but in a sweat-on style rather than sharkbite: http://www.sharkbite.com/product/tee-stop/ I couldn't seem to find what I was looking for at any of the big box hardware stores, though. Can anyone point me in the right direciton?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2017 16:06
|
|
|
brugroffil posted:I need to add two supply lines for a humidifier and a freezer ice maker. Both would be tee'd off of existing lines and would use 1/4" copper tubing. I'd like a shutoff valve for each one, too. I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly what sort of fittings I need to assemble to make this happen, though. Use a 1/2 copper tee with a male adapter. Screw on a 1/2 IPS valve and a 1/2 MIPx 1/4 compression
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2017 03:04
|
|
|
brugroffil posted:I need to add two supply lines for a humidifier and a freezer ice maker. Both would be tee'd off of existing lines and would use 1/4" copper tubing. I'd like a shutoff valve for each one, too. I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly what sort of fittings I need to assemble to make this happen, though. http://www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/specialized-supply/sweat/add-a-line They use compression nuts instead of sweating, but will work just as well. All you need to do is shut off the water, drain the pipes, cut out one inch of the pipe, then free up enough pipe that you can bend one end down slightly to slide on the tee. Make sure you get the 1/4" output ones for humidifiers and ice makers. The 5/8" ones slides over 1/2" copper and the 7/8" one over a 3/4" line. Sioux Chief used to make sweat-only ones, but I haven't seen them for sale in awhile. I guess nobody bought them so they stopped making them? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Nov 8, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2017 03:41
|
|
|
thanks to both of you
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2017 17:11
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Weil McClain Gold Oil boiler, ~19 years old, had a small drip starting a few months ago and it recently got worse. There's a small hairline crack at the top of the wet part. Being in SW CT, this was a good weekend to get heat and hot water back.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2017 04:01
|
|
|
--- Edit: I just talked to a real nice receptionist for an irrigation company, she told me not to worry about it since my backflow is under the house in a crawlspace. Said it's not gonna get nearly cold enough for long enough to hurt anything. --- I've got a sprinkler system that until today I'd forgotten to winterize (just moved in, 99 other things on the list) and it's supposed to get cold this weekend. This is the forecast for the next few days: Today, currently 46 Sat 24/40 Sun 27/45 Mon 37/56 I've got a guy coming Monday to do it, but should I worry about those temps this weekend? It's been warm here (Virginia) lately so I'm hoping a couple 24 degree nights aren't too bad, but I know nothing of sprinklers except that they seem a lot more exposed and vulnerable than normal house pipes. jackpot fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Nov 10, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2017 16:24
|
|
|
Is it a problem to have an outdoors flushing toilet that has an antifreeze dispenser? Seems the EPA wouldn't like it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 00:17
|
|
|
baquerd posted:Is it a problem to have an outdoors flushing toilet that has an antifreeze dispenser? Seems the EPA wouldn't like it. I imagine that porcelain would be really cold on your bare rear end in the winter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 01:08
|
|
|
Buying a house and home inspector noted no expansion tank on the water heater and no tube on the pressure relief valve. Are either of these things DIY’able repairs?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 01:44
|
|
|
Rubiks Pubes posted:Buying a house and home inspector noted no expansion tank on the water heater and no tube on the pressure relief valve. Are either of these things DIY’able repairs? Yes, definitely. Is the PRV top or side mounted? They sell premade ones. If you're going to the trouble of cutting up your pipes by your water heater, then you might want to think about adding a thermostatic mixing valve there too for safety. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Nov 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 02:08
|
|
|
Rubiks Pubes posted:Buying a house and home inspector noted no expansion tank on the water heater and no tube on the pressure relief valve. Are either of these things DIY’able repairs?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 03:53
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I imagine that porcelain would be really cold on your bare rear end in the winter. Wood toilet seat actually. Stand-alone shack in the woods with a giant antifreeze tank by the ceiling that flushes to... somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 04:53
|
|
|
baquerd posted:Wood toilet seat actually. Stand-alone shack in the woods with a giant antifreeze tank by the ceiling that flushes to... somewhere. Dig an outhouse.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 05:17
|
|
|
I just realized something, it it going to be possible to find someone who will do a tuneup on a furnace I installed myself? Should I find someone independent who will do it before looking for a service contract?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 22:42
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:I just realized something, it it going to be possible to find someone who will do a tuneup on a furnace I installed myself? Should I find someone independent who will do it before looking for a service contract? Companies will service units that they didn't install all the time. Also, wrong "nipples and ballcocks" thread.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2017 23:42
|
|
|
Advice?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2017 23:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 06:45 |
|
|
W. D. Basterd posted:Advice? Give up on your dream of making modern art. What is that thing by the way?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2017 00:22
|
|