|
The MFS sounds broken.
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 21:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 17:23 |
|
|
Yeah that sounds like the switch to me. Relay testing is easy as long as it isn't a unique relay. If there's another relay in the fuse box that looks identical, it probably is. Figure out what device it controls, swap relays. Bonus points if it's something blatantly easy to test like a horn. If the problem stayed the same and the swapped circuit still works, then both relays are good. If it works perfectly now and the other circuit is jacked, new relay time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 21:41
|
|
|
I found the wiper pump relay, it's in a little panel with one other relay, for the blower motor just behind and beside the right headlight. No corrosion or visible damage. It's dark now, I'll see if I can find an identical relay to swap-test it tomorrow morning - thanks for that! From the owner's manual the horn might be a good candidate. Rockauto will sell a multi function switch to me for about $65 (plus shipping), but there are three junkyards nearby and this seems like something to try for. Is there a way to test a MFS that I've just pulled out of a wreck, before I install it in my truck? The other things that led to failing the inspection were: * Feux de freinage - "Brake lights" - LL Obstrué and a Remarque: CYCLOP CACHE PAR LA CABINE that I *think* means the centre brake light is obscured by the topper on the bed. I don't know how to solve that, but if I return to the inspection station without the topper I think I'll be OK. * Phare de route - W Non conforme au fab. - the second part means this thing, whatever it is, does not conform to the manufacturer's standards. Google comes up with "Road lighthouse" but I'm leaning towards "LOL tes foglights sont gently caressée" which is absolutely true. Both lights are broken, including the housings. I guess they're required in Quebec, though the guide I found only talks about "parking lights". Another target for the JY, or else an online order for $50 each. Plus both front disk brakes are Endommagé (damaged) with a note: DISQUES AVANT GAUCHE ET DROIT ROUILLES A L'INTEREUR and google comes back with "rusty" and I guess the part about "interieur" means the inner surface? Perhaps my rotors are damaged? That would make sense, really. And my left front wheel bearing has JEU ANORMAL - abnormal play (or "strange game", I guess). Also the windshield wiper thing. ExecuDork posted:Do relays have unique part numbers written on them? My plan at this point is to test that relay, and head out to the local JY's this week (one is open on weekends, the others not so much) for the MFS and foglights. Then take it to my very local general mechanic and get him to do the brakes and the wheel bearing. I found a youtube video of somebody with a very similar truck changing out both front wheel bearings (and some other parts) but I got tired just watching it. Maybe I'll find some motivation somewhere. The guy at the Honda dealership when I picked up my truck spoke about as much English as I do French so it was an odd little conversation but I'm *pretty sure* he said this inspection report is good for a year, I just have to take it back when these things are fixed and they'll have a look and (hopefully) sign off on it. And I'm going to run this inspection report by a bilingual coworker tomorrow to see if she agrees with my guesses about the foglights and the centre brake light (I think they call it the cyclop here  ) - she claims to know nothing about cars but she's basically 100% fluent in both English and French and she can't take back that offer she made about helping me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 00:15
|
|
|
I think you're right about your fog lights. I'm guessing if they were ever installed then they have to work.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 02:30
|
|
|
'95-'96ish Jeep Cherokee. 4.0, auto. The transmission pan leaks. The gasket looks like someone pushed way too hard on a sandwich. Hanging out all over the place. Even separated in places. I was wondering if these transmissions are one of the places where removing the gasket and going the liquid gasket route is preferable?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 04:35
|
|
|
It came from the factory with sealant, not a gasket.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 04:42
|
|
|
Jake Snake posted:That's probably exactly what it is. Driving around today, I noticed the squeaking was much quieter. I can barely hear it even with no radio or traffic noise. While bleeding the brakes yesterday, I noticed a small chip on the edge of one of my front rotors. It's maybe half an inch long, but very shallow. Don't remember anything hitting the rotors, so it probably happened before changing the brakes and I just didn't notice it. No part of the chip is on the surface, so I'm not really worried about it, but that might be the source of the squeaking? Everything else looked fine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 06:05
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:or "strange game", I guess sounds like the only winning move is not to play
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 06:11
|
|
|
For 97 ranger goon: had this problem in a 99 explorer with the 4.0. Wipers worked fine, pump would work sometimes but sometimes not. I tried checking fuses and relays and even got a new pump motor but couldn't get it working. I ended up hooking up a basic push button directly to the pump. Would they let you pass inspection like that?
Cage fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Nov 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 06:19
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Washer sprayer issues I was just watching this tonight, sounds similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jdx2TW78PNA
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 08:50
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:It came from the factory with sealant, not a gasket. ... Then why the hell does it have a cork gasket on there? I'd prefer sealant there anyway.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 12:48
|
|
|
Cage posted:For 97 ranger goon: had this problem in a 99 explorer with the 4.0. Wipers worked fine, pump would work sometimes but sometimes not. I tried checking fuses and relays and even got a new pump motor but couldn't get it working. I ended up hooking up a basic push button directly to the pump. Would they let you pass inspection like that? I found this video that shows how to replace the MFS - looks easier than I expected, I was kind of thinking I'd need to remove the steering wheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxE9ukmE8B4 opengl128 posted:I was just watching this tonight, sounds similar
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:06
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:
Yeah, his videos are great for seeing some crazy goddamn electrical sleuthing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:28
|
|
|
I present my 2014 VW Polo 1.4 TDI which has been having some issues lately. It will fire up fine under any circumstances but when the engine's cold it idles pretty rough. It won't all-out cut out usually but getting it going requires more throttle input than a diesel like this should need. If I don't rev it up hard stalls are inevitable while it gets moving. Then, once I've driven it round the block without stopping it runs way better and after a couple of miles the entire problem is gone. T here's also an irregular clunking noise I went round by the dealership and couldn't show it to them after it had ran for a bit already, but they thought it might be a faulty/resonating dual mass flywheel since those apparently break a lot on Bluemotion Polos of this generation (I think they said to suspect the start/stop system had something to do with it). Swapping that out would take two days(!?) - tough repair bill for a newish company lease. But it turned out VW would cover it under factory warranty since flywheels should not break at ~100k kilometers. Without much further research I told them to go right ahead if that's what they think it is. I like cars a lot but don't care about this one too much, it's just a reliable ride to work Picked it up, it was better. More or less fixed, slightly different transmission/clutch feel and a bit rawer sounding idle. The mechanic had said this might happen because the replacement flywheel was a single mass instead of the more error-prone DMF. Oh well. This is what it sounds like two weeks later https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ut9UbKIlpgM Is this a flywheel noise or did I have one swapped out on a whim while there was a perfectly good alternative explanation? The only time I rev it myself is at 00:16 and while driving off at the end, when I give it way more input than normally necessary. I'm going to show the garage guys this as well but thought I'd ask your opinions so I'm prepared a little if they come up with some out of left-field solution I have no clue about again
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:42
|
|
|
2008 Honda Accord (4-cyl, 2.4) with frequent ignition problems. Sometimes it takes 2-3 tries to get the car started. The engine cranks, but doesn't start. As a result of the long crank, the engine light comes on. Other times, the car starts just fine, but this is unpredictable. A related issue (?): at times, the car loses acceleration and won't get past 2000 rpm even with the pedal down; the car will slowly accelerate (to 40 mph max). I've had this checked by my mechanic several times now. Things that they have eliminated include: 1. Battery (new battery installed in January) 2. Starter (got a new starter back in March) 3. Spark plugs (checked, no problem there) 4. Crank shaft sensor: this was the mechanic's first diagnosis. Had it replaced in September, and checked about two weeks later as the problem persisted. 5. Timing chain (second diagnosis): The solenoid valve needed to be replaced - and it was, in October. 6. Fuel pump, esp. check valve (third diagnosis): Fuel pressure was checked, and there is no significant drop of pressure when the engine is off. None of this has fixed the issue, and I can't really afford to play the guessing game any more. I was recommended to take it in to the Honda dealership for further diagnostics (haven't done it yet, though--would cost about $150, plus whatever they find). One suggestion my mechanic had was related to the key: They think that the key is not recognized by the car reliably, and the problems come from the immobilizer (or the after-market alarm, or both) kicking in. As evidence for this, I notice that when I insert the key, the green light in the dash flashes, but doesn't stay on. If I need to have a key reprogrammed for the car, it will run around $200. Any ideas on how to proceed?
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 21:04
|
|
|
Old Binsby posted:I present my 2014 VW Polo 1.4 TDI which has been having some issues lately. It will fire up fine under any circumstances but when the engine's cold it idles pretty rough. It won't all-out cut out usually but getting it going requires more throttle input than a diesel like this should need. If I don't rev it up hard stalls are inevitable while it gets moving. Then, once I've driven it round the block without stopping it runs way better and after a couple of miles the entire problem is gone. T here's also an irregular clunking noise Sounds like there is something wrong with the engine itself. Looks like it's mis firing but its strange there is no engine light coming on. Could be low compression, a bad injector or camshaft. That it goes away when warm leads me to believe it may be low compression but it hard to tell without being there with tools. For sure it's not the flywheel, the engine is not running right at all in that video.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 21:13
|
|
|
So I have a pretty unusual issue with the Turismo and maybe you guys have some ideas. The problem is that the (factory) spoiler is made of literal foam and absorbs an ungodly amount of water when it rains. Is there any way to keep this from happening? It's a soft foam that you can flex around with your hands quite easily because why not.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 21:48
|
|
|
Autoexec.bat posted:So I have a pretty unusual issue with the Turismo and maybe you guys have some ideas. The problem is that the (factory) spoiler is made of literal foam and absorbs an ungodly amount of water when it rains. Is there any way to keep this from happening? It's a soft foam that you can flex around with your hands quite easily because why not. Presumably you would need to coat it with a flexible sealer (like Flex Seal, for example), but matching the body paint will be difficult.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:17
|
|
|
That makes sense, the spoiler isn't the same color as the car so that's not a problem. The car in question: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:22
|
|
|
Holy poo poo I totally forgot about those years of Panther cars - the logic board (like in that video) is inside the wiper motor itself. On my 2008, the sprayer and wipers would be completely intermittent like 2+ days after a rainstorm. The drain flap around the wiper motor cowl was clogged (with .40 S&W shells and dirt in mine  ) and water would collect in the motor, causing corrosion on the logic board.I don't have the money to replace the whole motor, so I unbolted the whole thing, popped the logic board out (no screws, just a few plastic clips), re-soldered all of the big joints, and packed the entire thing with grease. And, of course, fixed the motor drain flap. From what I read online it's like 80% chance it's the MFS - they're garbage and break all of the time. But that other 20% is the motor itself, Pretty easy to access, just like six or eight screws on the plastic cowl/housing. The reason I went to the motor instead of the MFS first on mine is that the MFS was brand new from the police auction, with the old one they replaced very recently before the vehicle was decommissioned in a bag in the trunk.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:56
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:From what I read online it's like 80% chance it's the MFS - they're garbage and break all of the time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 23:04
|
|
|
I was the sole person to drive a brand new ambulance for over a year. Ford E350. I sure as hell didn't abuse the MFS at all (I just, you know, used it), but in 70k miles (more than 250 a day on average) it had to be replaced twice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 23:17
|
|
|
shy boy from chess club posted:Sounds like there is something wrong with the engine itself. Looks like it's mis firing but its strange there is no engine light coming on. Could be low compression, a bad injector or camshaft. That it goes away when warm leads me to believe it may be low compression but it hard to tell without being there with tools. For sure it's not the flywheel, the engine is not running right at all in that video. Thanks, I don't know a whole lot about bad car sounds but you sound confident enough that I hope the mechanics can make something of it when they have the car with them as well. Apparently I described the noise wrong for VW to think it was a flywheel issue? The text I wrote is basically what I told them before and what they based the diagnosis on, hope they aren't too pissed it seems to be something other than that. Also, kind of weird that the issue was gone for a while after they took apart and reassembled half the drivetrain to get to that flywheel. I'll post what it was once I get it back.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 23:22
|
|
|
MeGutlessGypsy posted:words I don't think it's the immobilizer or key. If it were either of those then I'd think the car should shut off completely while running instead of just sitting at 2k RPM, and it should prevent you from starting entirely and trigger some kind of lockout for [x] minutes after [y] starts. I would get a reader and pull the code after the CEL comes on after a no start. Also, to try and diagnose the problem and rule out the fuel pump, after a one no start attempt I'd move the key from Off to On a few time (5 or 6) and listen for the fuel pump. This will also force the fuel pump on, and at least help you rule out fuel supply issues. I think it's a fuel or air problem, and maybe you have an intermittently faulty relay or sensor something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 00:02
|
|
|
2002 Saturn SC2 3-door coupe 1.9 liter L4 engine 4 speed automatic Mileage 50,600 Issue: Coolant leak. The "Low Coolant Level" warning light comes on every couple weeks. I refill the coolant tank and the light goes off. Repeat every couple weeks. Question: How much should I expect it to cost for parts and labor to pay mechanic to replace the water pump? (if that is indeed the cause). Does this look accurate -> https://repairpal.com/estimator/saturn/sc2/water-pump-replacement-cost How Much Does a Water Pump Replacement Cost? The average cost for a Saturn SC2 Water Pump Replacement is between $315 and $474. Labor costs are estimated between $228 and $289 while parts are priced between $87 and $185. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 01:26
|
|
|
I'm not sure why you'd jump to replacing the water pump immediately. You can check where the coolant is pooling and find out what the likely culprit is. The prices you listed seem reasonable for the work done. There are a number of components to the cooling system, any number of which could be leaky. You might luck out and only have to replace hoses!
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 01:32
|
|
|
Are you certain its the water pump? Its GM from the early 2000’s, its probably a broken plastic part somewhere. Find a shop with decent reviews and pay them to diagnose the leak, don’t just ask for a water pump. Repair pal seems a little on the high side.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
Old Binsby posted:This is what it sounds like two weeks later Did they check the glow plugs? More importantly, are you waiting for the glow plug light to go off before starting it when cold? That really sounds like it's missing, which diesels are prone to do if a glow plug isn't working or if you don't let the glow plugs run through their cycle. IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, his videos are great for seeing some crazy goddamn electrical sleuthing. Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics is pretty good too. South Main was his inspiration to start Pine Hollow, and they collaborated on at least one car together.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 01:40
|
|
|
Breakfast Feud posted:I would get a reader and pull the code after the CEL comes on after a no start. Also, to try and diagnose the problem and rule out the fuel pump, after a one no start attempt I'd move the key from Off to On a few time (5 or 6) and listen for the fuel pump. This will also force the fuel pump on, and at least help you rule out fuel supply issues. I think it's a fuel or air problem, and maybe you have an intermittently faulty relay or sensor something. The fuel pump has been excluded (by my regular mechanic), though: I followed their advice (of moving the key, &c, even before a no-start), and it only occasionally works. Besides, when they tested it, there's no drop in fuel pressure when the engine is off. The CEL comes on after several starts due to the cranking (or so I was told). If the problem is due to the faulty relay/sensor something, what options are there--aside from the obvious ("take it to the dealer for diagnosis")?
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 03:15
|
|
|
e: quote is not edit
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 09:31
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Did they check the glow plugs? More importantly, are you waiting for the glow plug light to go off before starting it when cold? That really sounds like it's missing, which diesels are prone to do if a glow plug isn't working or if you don't let the glow plugs run through their cycle. I do, though never paid too much attention specifically to the glow plug indicator. It takes only a few seconds before it turns off along with most of the other dashboard lights so I usually wait for that while I setup gps or some music. They didn't explicitly mention the glow plugs when I brought it in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 11:59
|
|
|
Try cycling the key off and on a couple of times before your next cold start (leaving it on long enough for the glow plug light to shut off each time). If it improves somewhat, you may have a dead glow plug. I'm going on book knowledge here though, to be honest. I'm not sure what it takes to diagnose a dead glow plug (I would think it'd be just a resistance check on each plug).
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 12:14
|
|
|
MeGutlessGypsy posted:Thanks! To rule out the fuel system entirely, make sure that every time you turn the key to On you can hear the fuel pump for a few seconds. If this only happens intermittently then you've got a bad switch/relay (probably). You could try swapping the relays around in your fuse box and see if the problem follows the relay or stays the same. Maybe dig around some honda specific boards to see if there isn't actually some key related voodoo?
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 15:47
|
|
|
Breakfast Feud posted:I'm not sure why you'd jump to replacing the water pump immediately. You can check where the coolant is pooling and find out what the likely culprit is. The prices you listed seem reasonable for the work done. There are a number of components to the cooling system, any number of which could be leaky. You might luck out and only have to replace hoses! rdb posted:Are you certain its the water pump? Its GM from the early 2000’s, its probably a broken plastic part somewhere. Find a shop with decent reviews and pay them to diagnose the leak, don’t just ask for a water pump. Thanks guys. I brought to the shop this morning requesting simply to have coolant leak investigated and to have an oil change done. They just called me back. The damage: Water Pump is bad and the cause of leak. They say when they do a job like this often the thermostat doesn't close so they need to replace that as well. Plus I got an oil change done. $118 for parts, 3 hours labor, Total $494.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 16:46
|
|
|
Parts price is good, changing the thermostat is good and helpful, but $164/hr for labor? Hoooooly poo poo. Edit: bad math on my part. $125/hr Still, hoooooly poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2017 21:03
|
|
|
That's more like dealership rates.  On labor anyway... the water pump probably would have been $300 at the dealer 
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 00:15
|
|
|
How much would it cost to vinyl wrap a Golf Mk7? And is it worth me doing something to get a throatier, more guttural exhaust sound, or does something like that cost an awful lot? I'd feel a bit silly as well seeing as I have a normal Golf and not a Golf R or something fancy, but if it's within my price range, why not. PS: I love when you find a legitimate, honest garage. Took my car in for a tyre repair as it had a puncture in it. £63 for a brand new tyre. I also told them there was an issue I was having with the car, and they ran a diagnostics and looked at it, and totally scrapped the usual charge for something like that (£45) as they said they couldn't find anything, and so felt bad to charge me for it. They're a great bunch of guys and I'll be taking my car in to them for everything I need from now on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 00:51
|
|
|
Q8ee posted:How much would it cost to vinyl wrap a Golf Mk7? Q8ee posted:And is it worth me doing something to get a throatier, more guttural exhaust sound, or does something like that cost an awful lot? I'd feel a bit silly as well seeing as I have a normal Golf and not a Golf R or something fancy, but if it's within my price range, why not. Q8ee posted:PS: I love when you find a legitimate, honest garage. Took my car in for a tyre repair as it had a puncture in it. £63 for a brand new tyre. I also told them there was an issue I was having with the car, and they ran a diagnostics and looked at it, and totally scrapped the usual charge for something like that (£45) as they said they couldn't find anything, and so felt bad to charge me for it. They're a great bunch of guys and I'll be taking my car in to them for everything I need from now on. You want to change the colour, change the exhaust, and you're still not happy with how it's driving anyway? Sell it and buy something else.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 01:00
|
|
|
I'm about an hour and a half into a two hour drive away from home in my 2005 civic 5 speed. I stopped for fuel just now and when I pressed the clutch in it went to the floor with almost no resistance. It did go into neutral fine, and when I exited, it went into first and took off, but the pedal travel was infinitesimal before it bit and I launched it a little inadvertently. I was able to get up through the gears to third and back down as I pulled into this gas station. Is this a stop immediately problem or can I press on to my destination, where there will be tools?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 01:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 17:23 |
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:I'm about an hour and a half into a two hour drive away from home in my 2005 civic 5 speed. I stopped for fuel just now and when I pressed the clutch in it went to the floor with almost no resistance. It did go into neutral fine, and when I exited, it went into first and took off, but the pedal travel was infinitesimal before it bit and I launched it a little inadvertently. I was able to get up through the gears to third and back down as I pulled into this gas station. Is this a stop immediately problem or can I press on to my destination, where there will be tools? Sounds like a fluid issue, if you're in a position to check the level and look for any leaks, it's worth doing so. You could try topping it up if it's low, but if there's a leak, it'll probably just come back out again.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 01:22
|
|