|
wesleywillis posted:Use anti seize. I usually run my caliper bolts back in with my cordless impact driver. Tighten them down, slowly then just a half second of holding the trigger down all the way. Your results may vary.... 0toShifty posted:Those bolts are usually torqued to between 60-75 ft/lbs on Hyundai/Kias. I wouldn't use anti-sieze on them because that alters the torque. Cool, thanks for the replies! The Haynes Accent manual only spans 1986-2009. I've been waiting for an update, but no luck so far. If I were to use anti-seize and tighten with a torque wrench, is there a rule of thumb to adjust the torque settings and end up withing the 60-75 ftlb range? Am I down/overplaying the safety issue here?
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
I have a 2012 F-150 FX4 3.5 V6 ecoboost with 65K miles on it. I've changed tires from the old version of the BFG T/A KO tires to the new version T/A KO2, I hear and feel (in the pedal) a slight whirring noise when driving. Is there a definitive way to test if it's the tires or a wheel bearing or something else with limited tools/space? I am almost positive the new tread block and sidewall design is what's causing the noise, but I want to be sure it wasn't something I was simply not noticing/ignoring previously and only noticed now because I was paying attention to the new tire performance. Skreemer fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Nov 14, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 20:14
|
|
|
cigaw posted:Cool, thanks for the replies! There may be, but I am not aware of it. It would probably depend on if you're using copper or lead anti-seize, how much you use etc. Holy poo poo are they really supposed to be 60-75 ft lbs? The lug nuts on my old car had to be torqued to about 80 or so IIRC.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 22:56
|
|
|
Skreemer posted:I have a 2012 F-150 FX4 3.5 V6 ecoboost with 65K miles on it. I've changed tires from the old version of the BFG T/A KO tires to the new version T/A KO2, I hear and feel (in the pedal) a slight whirring noise when driving. Is there a definitive way to test if it's the tires or a wheel bearing or something else with limited tools/space? If you jack up each wheel, and try to wiggle them, you might be able to find some play. Or you can try rotating the tires. Mine got rotated a few months back, there was a noise coming from the front driver's side. I changed the two front tires around, it went away.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2017 22:58
|
|
|
Chunjee posted:2006 Infiniti M45 As long as we can all agree that this is an awful idea and will only hold for a bit, I reckon there's a way to fiberglass this better. I actually wrote up a big post about maybe rigging up a hotbox and using fiberglass mat to cure the fiberglass faster, but after you've done all that...man, just pull the oil pan.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
So here I am replacing this CV axles on my 2005 camry V6 3.0 I double checked the part numbers on Rockauto.com. these should be like... the same length shouldn't they? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 00:26
|
|
|
Looks like the left/bottom boot is pretty stretched out. CV joints allow the axle to turn as well as telescope in and out as the wheel turns through its arc. If you push on the left side of the original axle the joint should retract into itself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 00:34
|
|
|
ok, yeah you're right. I've been here fuming at rockauto for the last 30 minutes because I thought they sent me the wrong things. Stupid questions thread living up to its name :V Edit: when I pulled the axle out, a bunch of [transmission fluid?] spilled out. Do I need to lubricate the new shaft before I put it in? or just make sure the transmission fluid is full before I start it? Action Man fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Nov 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 00:47
|
|
|
Action Man posted:Edit: when I pulled the axle out, a bunch of [transmission fluid?] spilled out. Do I need to lubricate the new shaft before I put it in? or just make sure the transmission fluid is full before I start it? Check the level afterwards. No need to lubricate the shaft, the differential it connects to is bathed in transmission fluid.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 03:33
|
|
|
Action Man posted:So here I am replacing this CV axles on my 2005 camry V6 3.0 Protip: if you have to do this job again, use a pry bar instead of heaving on the axle until it pops free. You run the risk of the CV joint separating if you're yanking on it, which makes a mess (... worse than the kind of mess you get from repeatedly yanking on other things  it takes a lot more than a dirty sock to clean up)... then you're still stuck having to pry the remains out. They usually snap in and out (and you'll know when you get the new one snapped in - it'll click and won't be easy to pull back out). If you don't snap it in, it may pop out (of the differential, anyway) on its own at an inopportune time.Sometimes a gentle tap or two from a mallet on that metal part before the inner CV joint (NOT ON THE JOINT) will be needed to get it to snap in. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Nov 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 07:12
|
|
|
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Manual transmission. My reverse gear shift is giving me issues. It doesn't seem to shift into Reverse gear very well. Almost like it isn't fully "popping" into the reverse gear. Kind of stops halfway, and if I give gas while in this position it gives me the sickening grinding sound as if someone improperly shifted halfway into the gear. Is this a sign of a worn/failing clutch? If so, how easy or difficult of a repair is this for a DIYer like me with below-intermediate knowledge of car repairs? I'm guessing that it's pretty major and not within my abilities. I replaced the transmission/gear fluid last Spring. Car's about 147,000km/91,000 miles. melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Nov 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
Probably shift linkage or shift fork issues
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 18:52
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Probably shift linkage or shift fork issues melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Nov 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 18:57
|
|
|
I wouldn't expect a clutch problem if you can reliably get it into other gears (especially first). Does shifting to first and then reverse help at all? Can you observe the transmission end of the shifter cables while someone else tries to get it in reverse? Could be something loose that becomes obvious when it's loaded.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
So I'm trying to sell my Junker car to a guy who just wants it for parts, and then plans to junk it himself. I have the title, but won't be able to officially sign it over to him (notary/auto tags) because my GF is actually the title holder and isn't available. Is there any issue with just giving him the unsigned title? Pennsylvania. I can get the title signed, but probably not notarized.
Elysium fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:28
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Those are new words to me so it sounds the repairs are beyond my (already limited) fixing capabilities. Normally I'd take a closer look myself, but my schedule over the next few days really sucks. Any thoughts as to how much $$ this might cost to fix? linkage/cables are easy and cheap usually, forks are $$ because they are inside the trans. The linkage is the collection of parts that connect the shifter to the gearbox, they can be cables or metal linkages. They often have bushings that wear out, meaning that you are not able to fully engage the gear because of the play in the linkages. Watch this to get an idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heQqCyw_DEA
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:36
|
|
|
Elysium posted:So I'm trying to sell my Junker car to a guy who just wants it for parts, and then plans to junk it himself. I have the title, but won't be able to officially sign it over to him (notary/auto tags) because my GF is actually the title holder and isn't available. Is there any issue with just giving him the unsigned title? Pennsylvania. I can get the title signed, but probably not notarized. The unsigned title is useless to him. He can't reregister it or apply for a new title until it is. It's not his car until it is signed over to him.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:51
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:The unsigned title is useless to him. He can't reregister it or apply for a new title until it is. It's not his car until it is signed over to him. Ok, sure, the question is does he need to ever reregister it or apply for a new title if he's going to junk it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:53
|
|
|
Elysium posted:Ok, sure, the question is does he need to ever reregister it or apply for a new title if he's going to junk it. Junking it means tranferring the title to the junkyard, so probably yes, he has to apply for a new title. If junking it means leaving to rot on his own property, probably not.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 19:55
|
|
|
Yeah, junkyards are rightfully generally very reluctant to deal in vehicles with questionable title status.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 20:04
|
|
|
melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Manual transmission. Are you completely unable to shift into reverse or will it go into gear after the car sits still for a few seconds/when shifting into reverse from a full stop? Reverse is typically unsyncronized in modern manual transmissions so it's not uncommon to encounter difficulty shifting and grinding if you're shifting from a forward gear directly into reverse.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 20:10
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Protip: if you have to do this job again, use a pry bar instead of heaving on the axle until it pops free. Thanks, the right side was a beast to remove. The left side is leaking slightly, I guess I might not have it seated all the way. I'll double check them. I've got it at the alignment shop right now. The new tie rod I put on a couple months ago was bad. I think the vibrations from the CV joint may have worn it out prematurely (does that sound right?) But the good news there is I think the steering rack is fine
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 22:40
|
|
|
https://youtu.be/wSCkbJbzrd8 This is how much play there is, whacking that piece with a hammer doesn't seem to want to do anything. Update: I removed the axle completely from The Hub so that I could get better access to it. Grabbing that big cylinder and pulling won't get it out of the transmission, so I would assume it's seated... But there's still that but of play and it leaks fluid from the seal. Action Man fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Nov 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2017 23:32
|
|
|
Axle seal is hosed, and it's very common for them to start leaking when you swap an axle - the seal's probably original (I think you said you had the original half shafts, right?), and dry rotted by now. You'll need to pull the axle again, carefully remove the seal, and tap a new seal into its place. The hardest part will be removing the seal without damaging the transaxle casing. It New seal is cheap (probably $20ish at the dealer,  for a parts store brand, guessing). Installation is pretty easy, so long as you have a block of wood and a hammer or mallet (preferably mallet). Need to oil up the new seal before it goes in (assuming you have an automatic, so use whatever ATF your car uses - just smear a light layer all over the seal with your finger), but the most important thing is driving it in evenly all the way around (hence the block of wood). Spring side goes toward the inside, if it's the style with a spring.That play looks pretty normal to me, but I've only played with beater Hondas and Nissans. Take a beefy flathead screwdriver or a prybar and stick it between that "big cylinder" (I don't know the proper name either...) and the transaxle housing, pop it (so that the torque will be going toward the cylinder) with a hammer, and it should come out. Advice for future Action Man: go ahead and replace the axle seal anytime you pull the axle, unless the seal has been replaced very recently. It's cheap insurance against a leak, and something that gets overlooked often. Tie rod shouldn't have worn out that quick. It was probably bad from the get-go. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Nov 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 10:14
|
|
|
Yay, I can't wait to pull the axles back out. I wish I'd thought I'd that the first time. That seems right though, I was just worried the shaft want in all the way somehow. I was watching videos of guys really wailing on the axles with a hammer to seat it. It to a lot of force to get them out, but not so much to go back in. I can't really figure it a good way to exert more force in it without damaging something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 12:17
|
|
|
That's normal for them to be a lot harder to remove. They're meant to pop in pretty easy, and be a lot harder to remove. The guys who had to wail on them with a hammer to get them to seat probably either had the wrong axles (manual vs auto, or different trim level, wrong year, or something where the spline count was different) or were too impatient to feel for where the splines lined up and just went for the brute force method. Every time I've swapped them, when reinstalling, I just grab it by that metal collar (between the inner CV and gearbox), turn it slowly to feel for the splines to line up, then give it a good shove in. You'll feel the click when it locks in, but you can double check by trying to pull it back out. They have enough teeth that you shouldn't have to turn it much to line it up with the diff. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Nov 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 12:51
|
|
|
melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Manual transmission. Doesn't the manual elantra have a reverse lockout thing - like a ring just below the shift knob that you have to lift to get it into reverse? Is it going up all the way? Perhaps just this part of the linkage is screwy
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 15:56
|
|
|
Guys, need some help figuring out why I'm getting flat tires. '05 Accord AT, 150k miles. Last weekend: tires rotated at Walmart 2 days ago: Came out of a parking lot somewhat fast, felt/sounded like the front end hit the road and made a WHUMP. As I got on the highway, front passenger side tire went WUB-WUB-WUB. Got out and it was completely flat. Called roadside assistance, had guy put on a spare. Last night: Took the car to America's Tire and they said the tire was too eaten up (side wall very soft in places), put on a new tire and switched it out with the rear passenger. Drove it home, seemed fine. This morning: Just started driving and same WUB WUB sound, got out and front passenger is flat. So just to be clear, new tire/front passenger rim placed on back, old tire/back passenger rim placed on the front, and it is now the latter that is flat. Since I seem to have hit something, and since this is a different tire and wheel than what was on the front before, I figure it must be something wrong with the wheel well? But what could that be?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 18:07
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Junking it means tranferring the title to the junkyard, so probably yes, he has to apply for a new title. If junking it means leaving to rot on his own property, probably not. Title holder is now available to officially transfer the title. Buyer says he doesn't really care as long as it's signed, presumably he doesn't want to pay title fees and whatnot on a junk car, and says his scrap guy will take it with the signed (not notarized title). Are there legal issues for us if we just give him the signed title? Like if the police find a dead hooker in the trunk of "our" car on the side of the road?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 20:00
|
|
|
Still having issues with the Volvo 850. Struggled to start last night, finally did but I had to give it some gas. Drove it to the store and it died in the parking lot. Struggled to start, then struggled to idle then died again and the battery was too low to start it. Walked home. Threw the battery on a charger for a few hours, started up and drove home fine. Battery is 3.5 years old but tested fine at Autozone both in the car and on the bench. I still think it's that but I'm taking it to a shop tonight to make sure before I spend the money on a battery. I've been looking for drains on the battery but haven't been able to find anything. Disconnected it'll drop down to about 12.17V and hold there but I don't know what CCA it has left. Could also be a connection somewhere or the alternator I think, or even not an electrical issue. Could be a fuel delivery issue. It's my winter car and I need to get this figured out like now. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Nov 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 20:24
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Still having issues with the Volvo 850. Struggled to start last night, finally did but I had to give it some gas. Drove it to the store and it died in the parking lot. Struggled to start, then struggled to idle then died again and the battery was too low to start it. Walked home. What condition is your throttle body in? My mom had a P80 S70 low boost that went through two TB's in 220k miles, my P2 S60R's TB gave up the ghost at 99k right as I was selling it. Had similar hard start lovely idle symptoms when they let go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 21:30
|
|
|
Elysium posted:Title holder is now available to officially transfer the title. Buyer says he doesn't really care as long as it's signed, presumably he doesn't want to pay title fees and whatnot on a junk car, and says his scrap guy will take it with the signed (not notarized title). Are there legal issues for us if we just give him the signed title? Like if the police find a dead hooker in the trunk of "our" car on the side of the road? Do a bill of sale on top of anything you do, buyer/seller sign both copies. Not necessarily legally binding bit at least shows good faith in what the disposition of the vehicle was if something does come up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 21:32
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Still having issues with the Volvo 850. Struggled to start last night, finally did but I had to give it some gas. Drove it to the store and it died in the parking lot. Struggled to start, then struggled to idle then died again and the battery was too low to start it. Walked home. Struggled to start, or struggled to turn over?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 22:24
|
|
|
MrYenko posted:Struggled to start, or struggled to turn over? Struggles to start. I hear the starter engaging fine until the battery is so low that it doesnt. Garage2Roadtrip posted:What condition is your throttle body in? My mom had a P80 S70 low boost that went through two TB's in 220k miles, my P2 S60R's TB gave up the ghost at 99k right as I was selling it. Had similar hard start lovely idle symptoms when they let go. What should I check? I know the throttle cable is wonky, if I floor it it'll jump off of the track and stick open.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 22:31
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Struggles to start. I hear the starter engaging fine until the battery is so low that it doesnt. Hard, unpopular mode, is hook up VIDA/DICE and look at the metrics for it and reset it and see how it does. I know not everyone has that, but from what I remember on swedespeed (go there if you aren't already, all the answers are there and they're nice), you can yank it and clean it because the idle circuit likes to gum up and not work. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/how-to-clean-volvo-throttle-body.html The flooring it and sticking open bit is bad. Figure out what you need to do to fix that. Throttle bodies are also really cheap and take like 20 minutes to replace on those too, of it comes to that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2017 22:38
|
|
|
Recommendations for a battery to last 3-5 years at most? This thing is very old, but desperately needs a replacement for its almost 10 year old battery. Not sure if they make different types of batteries, it’s a ‘99 Subaru Impreza.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 01:28
|
|
|
88 F150 oil leak update: I got my tranny, clutch and flywheel off. My oil leak definitely was the rear main seal, judging from the oil on the back side of the flywheel. The funny thing is that the seal looked perfectly fine. I replaced anyway it along with the sleeve using the applicator tool, being extra careful not to scratch anything. Everything is almost back together. I wish I could test the seal with the transmission off before I go and put everything back together, but no, that's what the starter mounts to... Thanks for everyone's help by the way. I owe you all a beer. PS how well do those flywheel holder tools work? I got mine back on and all the bolts torqued down to spec, but it wasn't easy. I had to jam a prybar in the starter hole on the plate and hold it with my knee to get both hands on the torque wrench since the bolts had to be so tight.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 01:31
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Struggles to start. I hear the starter engaging fine until the battery is so low that it does not. Definitely not the battery, then. I'd start stashing nickels away though, lead-acid batteries aren't fond of being discharged like that, and you're stressing an already-old battery. Not saying its a factor now, but it will be in the future.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 01:44
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:88 F150 oil leak update: Different engine but I found that if I timed the torque wrench so it was going past the centerline of the flywheel, and thus imparting the least possible torque to the rotating assembly then it could actually reach the right torque without spinning the motor. If it was going outboard of the flywheel it spun every time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 02:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
95 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L 4x4 blah blah. Trying to change balljoints on one side. It's clear I need a C shaped press. The only ones on eBay Australia are all variants of a red plastic boxed probably cheap Chinese manufactured one. I have no idea what to get. Can someone please enlighten me? Worth saying I got to the needing a press stage way too easily. Especially the axle. When I undid the three hub bolts there was nothing else holding it in place. Hmm. Also the top joint is perfect. Can't move it by hand. But rules is rules. The inspector said top and bottom need replacing so I guess I'd better do that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2017 05:07
|
|