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Dremcon
Sep 25, 2007
No, not a convention.
Brushes question - what type of brush is your workhorse? I have rounds, which I thought was the recommended type to start with. However the Winsor Series 7 (especially my size 2) are less pointed when loaded with paint and more bulbous? Kind of like an onion; there’s a point but it quickly swells before tapering again.

Should I have picked up an S7 pointed? I think I’ve seen a couple vids of people using angled flat brushes too.

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DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
I use the round 1 & 2, but I try not to load them too heavily. 1 is my workhorse.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

A W&N size 1 is my workhorse. I have a size 2, but I rarely use it.

I have a size 0 I use for super small details, but my size 1 keeps enough of a point even for eyes.

Meeple
Dec 29, 2009

VolatileSky posted:

I do have a question unrelated: anyone print fabric in their printer? I want a cloth banner with a 40k mural (for a vehicle banner) but I'm having issues finding a decent way of stiffening the fabric enough to run it through. I'm thinking maybe it'll be best just to make a few stencils and spray paint or airbrush the fabric instead with a simpler inquisitorial design.

Freezer paper works well, if you iron it to the fabric the shiny side sticks reasonably well but peels off afterwards (which is why it's popular for drafting sewing patterns). There's also some liquid you can get for helping the ink 'set' to the fabric properly, I can't find the bottle we've got but a Google should find you that - bubble jet set or something similar. Depending on your printer you may not get very deep blacks, but I supposed it's very dependent on your setup. I know some printers use or can take dye rather than ink for a stronger image.

Farts
Nov 4, 2005

Quidthulhu posted:

I think your spider looks great! :3: What's it for?

Thanks! They're not for anything in particular at the moment, I just enjoy painting minis. I've been trying to get an RPG group together but all my friends (and my) work schedules suck.

Takuan
May 6, 2007

I've finally finished the full set of DOOM board game figures.
















It will be a joyous and liberating experience to be able to work on literally anything else next.

Pyrolocutus
Feb 5, 2005
Shape of Flame



How do people smoothly and evenly apply mud or gel water effects? Do you all use a roller or...?

I've gotten away with thick mud patches before, but I'm gearing up to paint a friend's model and want to get the basing done really well, so flatter mud and going to be incorporating a small stream where I need to get the water nice and level.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Pyrolocutus posted:

How do people smoothly and evenly apply mud or gel water effects? Do you all use a roller or...?

I've gotten away with thick mud patches before, but I'm gearing up to paint a friend's model and want to get the basing done really well, so flatter mud and going to be incorporating a small stream where I need to get the water nice and level.

I'd probably use a putty knife if I wanted mud to be really flat, but I'm not sure how realistic that would look. I think most water effects are self leveling, so you shouldn't have any issues with that even over a rough base.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

R0ckfish posted:

My last two weeks have been decently productive, I just finished some Zoanthropes and last week I did 20 hormagaunts

it would be difficult to get 20 gauts in a picture so have 5 of them instead


Just some nids to join in on the endless piles of other peoples.

Pyrolocutus
Feb 5, 2005
Shape of Flame



Booley posted:

I'd probably use a putty knife if I wanted mud to be really flat, but I'm not sure how realistic that would look. I think most water effects are self leveling, so you shouldn't have any issues with that even over a rough base.

Well, this is Vallejo Water Texture Acrylic. Seems to be more of a gel than anything else. As for the mud, it's going to be a winter battlefield, so I'm planning to go mud layer, smooth it out a bit to account for cold-related dessication (dehydration?), then apply watered-down whites and flocking.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Finished a test model for my bigly space marine chapter, just in time for my Shapeways custom shoulder emblems to show up in the mail.



After trying half a dozen different purple paint and wash combos i finally ended up using GW Xereus Purple basecoat with Druchii Violet shade as someone else suggested. Now just to get to work on the rest of them.

Dr Hemulen
Jan 25, 2003

Takuan posted:

I've finally finished the full set of DOOM board game figures.




It will be a joyous and liberating experience to be able to work on literally anything else next.

Those are awesome! Are you just goning to use them for the board game, or build a 40K chaos army or something similar with them ?

darnon
Nov 8, 2009

Pyrolocutus posted:

Well, this is Vallejo Water Texture Acrylic. Seems to be more of a gel than anything else. As for the mud, it's going to be a winter battlefield, so I'm planning to go mud layer, smooth it out a bit to account for cold-related dessication (dehydration?), then apply watered-down whites and flocking.

If you want really flat water you would probably want to look at a slower curing clear epoxy. For the ground, stuff like Vallejo's black lava or other ground effects acrylics you can gently press flatter when it is partially dry. Although realistically frozen ground with water around can be uneven as hell as ground water pressure can float out rocks and freeze into heaved areas as the ice expands.

Takuan
May 6, 2007

HardCoil posted:

Those are awesome! Are you just goning to use them for the board game, or build a 40K chaos army or something similar with them ?

I was planning on using them for the board game, but we finished it, and even ran through some custom scenarios, before I was even halfway done. So now I guess they're just gonna go up on the shelf.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
I'm gonna get some Golden Crackle medium for some bases/display board but I also want to do some gritty sections too. IIRC it's molding paste mixed with sand/grit right?

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

DiHK posted:

I'm gonna get some Golden Crackle medium for some bases/display board but I also want to do some gritty sections too. IIRC it's molding paste mixed with sand/grit right?

I used some liquitex resin sand for gritty sections of a display board recently and liked it. It's probably more expensive, but not that bad (one jar did about 4sqft). The grit is fairly large, they also make some other kind of sand with smaller grit that I'll try at some point.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Well, I have to add a caveat to my past Master Airbrush recommendations. I was spraying today and wanted to swap out the needle for the smaller size. I took the nozzle off and went to put the smaller one on, and the thread shredded inside the body of the brush - so now, I've got a broken fine nozzle and a body that won't accept the other guides now due to the blockage. I don't think I can get anything down there to get it out, so I'm down an airbrush, drat it.

Edit: this is apparently an issue https://youtu.be/WXfXx0XrvDc

Long story short, use extreme caution when replacing your needle guides.

Anyway, I grabbed the Patriot 105 and went to town. The spray pattern is quite a bit larger than the Master though, so I need to get a smaller needle. Any ideas on what the default needle size is that comes with the 105?

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Nov 25, 2017

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
I got the Fine Needle for the 105 but it looks the same size as the needle that came with it.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

DiHK posted:

I got the Fine Needle for the 105 but it looks the same size as the needle that came with it.

OK, so it sounds like the Super Detail is the one I need. Thanks.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
Yeah that looks right. Adding to my cart too.

Anyone have any thoughts on getting a regular pancake compressor and fitting it down to use an airbrush? One day I am gonna want a full size compressor but I'm leaning toward "not worth the hassle" right now and when it is time for a big boy to just get a full size one and keep the jobs separate.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

DiHK posted:

Yeah that looks right. Adding to my cart too.

Anyone have any thoughts on getting a regular pancake compressor and fitting it down to use an airbrush? One day I am gonna want a full size compressor but I'm leaning toward "not worth the hassle" right now and when it is time for a big boy to just get a full size one and keep the jobs separate.

A pancake compressor is so loving noisy you don't want to use it for an airbrush indoors.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
What are you guys using for airbrush varnishes? I'm looking for a gloss and a matte.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
It shipped. :woop:

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug

berzerkmonkey posted:

What are you guys using for airbrush varnishes? I'm looking for a gloss and a matte.

I use and am happy with Vallejo. Would love to know if there's better.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

bonds0097 posted:

I use and am happy with Vallejo. Would love to know if there's better.

Also using Vallejo Polyurethane Varnishes (both gloss and matte) through the airbrush.

Also using Testor's Dullcote for some large vehicles, especially if there's been a lot of weathering pigments on it (rattle can).

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug

Booley posted:

A pancake compressor is so loving noisy you don't want to use it for an airbrush indoors.

This is a bit understated. It's so noisy you'll want to wear rifle range ear muffs if you use it indoors.

Just use a regular airbrush compressor with a tank. For $50 more it's more than enough and they're really quiet.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

First time using the airbrush went well! I'm glad I watched the youtube tutorials I did because the needle accumulated a lot of paint and I was pretty on top of keeping it clean when the spray pattern started to get funky.

I did have one issue which is that when running airbrush cleaner fluid though, it seems theres a really small leak somewhere in the front end, because I got a lot of bubbles like this when the brush was just about to get clean. I tried tightening it but everything there is already finger tight. Is there anything I should do? I could read up on the badger 105 a little more to see if this is common.





Bonus pics of what I primed.



Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Booyah- posted:

I got a lot of bubbles like this when the brush was just about to get clean. I tried tightening it but everything there is already finger tight. Is there anything I should do? I could read up on the badger 105 a little more to see if this is common.



Yeah fairly common.

I’ve found some lube on the thread makes the seal a lot more reliable, but don’t expect it to be airtight.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Yep, mine does it too, all the way back to the trigger, in fact. I'm going to bring mine too Adepticon and talk to them about it.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
I hate doing it but I use a pair of needle nose pliers to *VERY CAREFULLY* tighten down the end nubs when I break the 105 down. Had the bubble thing once, and not at all since then. The good news is that those end nubs are good and hard and don't seem to be taking much damage from the pliers.

I wonder if they have end bits for the 105 that have flat sides like the Sotor.

I have a "life time supply" of REGDAB if anyone wants to bring their machine to Adepticon and lube up.

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug
That looks like a bad seal. I've never seen that on Iwatas. Maybe put some teflon tape around the threads?

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
I get bubbles sometime with soap in the airbrush, but i have no problem with paint.

Entropy238
Oct 21, 2010

Fallen Rib
Can anyone recommend me a Citadel Base Paint mix that's somewhere between Khorne Red and Naggaroth Nights for 40k? The Hive Fleet Leviathan Naggaroth Nights Purple and the Hive Fleet Kraken Khorne Red are a bit much for me and I'd like to go for something more in-between the two, like a really dark red with purple tinges.

Maybe I could just mash them together and see what happens?

Restricted to Citadel Paints because I need to ingratiate myself with the people in the local GW store.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
Yeah, try just a 1:1 mixture of the two, see what it looks like.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Entropy238 posted:


Restricted to Citadel Paints because I need to ingratiate myself with the people in the local GW store.

Buy P3 sanguine base and pretend you mixed it yourself in a spare container.

Entropy238
Oct 21, 2010

Fallen Rib

Stephenls posted:

Yeah, try just a 1:1 mixture of the two, see what it looks like.

Guess I’ll give it a shot.

Yeast posted:

Buy P3 sanguine base and pretend you mixed it yourself in a spare container.

That’s definitely along the lines of what I’m looking for, just something with a bit more purple in it.

VolatileSky
May 5, 2007
i'm gay thx

Booley posted:

A pancake compressor is so loving noisy you don't want to use it for an airbrush indoors.

As loud as a regular shop compressors, or nearly. I have a 5 gallon compressor and an 8 gallon tank hooked together to keep it from going off constantly, but I still only airbrush in the garage with headphones on to listen to something other than the motor constantly buzzing. And that's with running a 20' air hose to my workbench.

MrFlibble
Nov 28, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Fallen Rib
I know GW sprays aren't primers but watching warhammer tv videos they sometimes just use a spray - does anyone have any experience with that? I was thinking of working on some scenery after christmas (I figure the GW stuff will seem less expensive if I buy sets spaced apart) and I have no intention of hand painting primer on like I do for my models. It would save a lot of time to be able to just spray leadbelcher onto the stuff but if it rubs off easily then its going to cause problems given that the scenery is too large for me to use a cork to hold.

Also thinking of switching from Vallejo primer to UMP/Badger for this reason.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

MrFlibble posted:

I know GW sprays aren't primers but watching warhammer tv videos they sometimes just use a spray - does anyone have any experience with that? I was thinking of working on some scenery after christmas (I figure the GW stuff will seem less expensive if I buy sets spaced apart) and I have no intention of hand painting primer on like I do for my models. It would save a lot of time to be able to just spray leadbelcher onto the stuff but if it rubs off easily then its going to cause problems given that the scenery is too large for me to use a cork to hold.

Also thinking of switching from Vallejo primer to UMP/Badger for this reason.

I didn't realize there were adding that caveat, but I used their Zandri dust as a spray on my figures and it seems great as far as durability, about on par with their white spray.

I also like the army painter sprays as far as their colors go, but they have a very poor tooth for primer purposes and paint rubs off very easily.

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dr_ether
May 31, 2013

Old Man Survivor for Kingdom Death

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