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CA emissions so I'm not deleting anything. 160k.
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Nov 21, 2017 01:53
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The intercooler isn't exactly difficult to remove - takes maybe 5-10 minutes to remove at most. I'd just do the solenoid and plugs and leave it at that.
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Nov 21, 2017 04:21
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It's a bit fiddly but yeah it's not the end of the world.
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Nov 21, 2017 04:25
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So since the weather was nice this week I decided to do a couple more things to spruce up the 2. Over thanksgiving my buddy gave me a hand polishing the headlights up and though they're not 100% and I need to do the UV coating, I'm pretty pleased with a couple hours work. Drivers Side: rebuff from 30 micron to 2 micron.   Passenger Side that my buddy was working on. Again, 30 to 2 micron. He didn't spend enough time at 15, so it's still hazy and I intend on re-doing the job.   Today I decided to tackle swapping out the wheels for some no-name 205/45r/16s for the MMB's that came with the car in 185/60r/15. The rears are pretty worn and the fronts had a bit more dry rot than I'd like so they're getting swapped as soon as I have a little extra scratch saved up. I did some research and it looks like General AltiMax RT43's are well received. Can anyone comment on good tires for 185/60r/15's? I did confirm what the seller initially told me about there being several studs that were in bad shape.  Drivers front, the one on the bottom has some bad lookin' thread. It's enough to hold a wheel but I wouldn't be surprised if it's totally done for next time I pull that lug nut off.  Passenger rear is looking pretty grotty too. Fortunately, the seller provided me of the parts numbers for replacements and they're relatively inexpensive Miata parts so I have a set coming from Amazon. For those who come across this later you're looking for ARP Studs for Miata 94-05 "Front and Rear". Part numbers; 100-7719/100-7720. The studs labeled for the front end on a Miata work on the rear of a Mazda 2, and vice versa. I will note that I do not know if these are the same size/thread pitch of Mazda 2 OEM studs, or are needed for the aftermarket wheels I am currently running. It looks like they've never been replaced, however the lug nuts for these aftermarket wheels differ from the factory lugs so the studs may have been replaced at some point in the past. Further investigation may be required. A set for the fronts and backs should run you around $50. Those thrifty may look to snagging some good ones at a junkyard.  I like the look of the MMB wheels much more than the other ones. I took it for a quick spin and while the handling isn't quite as sharp as with the wider tires, road noise is significantly reduced as is vibration over bumps. I chalk that up to both thicker sidewalls on these 185s and the 205's are getting pretty worn. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Nov 27, 2017 |
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Nov 27, 2017 00:53
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Ugh. I've been smelling coolant (or something else sweet) for about 30 seconds when I start the Speed in the morning. Going to check for leaks in the cabin air filter housing this weekend... gently caress, I hope the heater core's not pooched.
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Nov 29, 2017 18:50
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I guess I should have waited a few months  https://jalopnik.com/behold-the-turbocharged-2018-mazda-6-with-a-much-nicer-1820851215/amp
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Dec 1, 2017 03:14
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Still no Android auto
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Dec 1, 2017 05:19
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And people whine about the automatic transmission... I didn't want an automatic before I got my 2015 Mazda3 2.2d, now I don't want a manual in a daily driver ever again.
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Dec 1, 2017 09:47
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Dang that's a good looking ride.
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Dec 2, 2017 00:02
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MC Hawking posted:Today I decided to tackle swapping out the wheels for some no-name 205/45r/16s for the MMB's that came with the car in 185/60r/15. The rears are pretty worn and the fronts had a bit more dry rot than I'd like so they're getting swapped as soon as I have a little extra scratch saved up. I did some research and it looks like General AltiMax RT43's are well received. Can anyone comment on good tires for 185/60r/15's? I did confirm what the seller initially told me about there being several studs that were in bad shape. I'm running BF g-Force comp2s, which are fine, though not mindblowing. The selection of summer tires that aren't autocross tires is pretty limited at this size.
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Dec 3, 2017 09:56
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I run 205/50r15 Federal 595 RS-R as summer tires, they're pretty great for trackdays but they're not exactly rain tires 
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Dec 3, 2017 13:08
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nm posted:OEM tire size for the mazda is 185/55/15. You don't need to run that. I run 195/50/15s, which are very close to the same size and 205/50/15s are even closer (but for me had a worse tire selection). Right on, thanks for the input! I'll probably stick with 185/60r/15 since the selection of tires is pretty vast and that's what I have on there now so I know it'll fit the rim. Today I'm going to do the studs and if there's time a clay bar and wax. Will update this post later today. Update:  I did not take into consideration that the ARP studs are going to be really long and do not work with closed-end lug nuts. These will have to be cut down to size as Amazon is out of stock on OEM fronts nor do they stock any aftermarket studs like dorman. Mazda-parts.com wants $25 in shipping for a $8 OEM stud which is absurd, and the local parts store was thoroughly unhelpful, saying that it's pretty much a dealership only part. Project is on hold and the car is on stands in the garage. As you can see that particular OEM stud is completely chickenfucked and there's no way I can get it pulled back in, nor would I trust it to hold a wheel properly for any length of time. If you have open lug nuts, this shouldn't be a problem it'll just look really goofy. I'm extremely fortunate that I have the luxury of time in this matter and there's a machine shop specializing in engine rebuilds nearby so I'm going to make some calls in the morning to see if they can help me out. I clay barred and waxed the hood. Now I can see all the highway mile chips in glaring detail and it's bugging my OCD. Any good sources on True Red touchup paint? MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Dec 4, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 19:18
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Wibla posted:And people whine about the automatic transmission... I didn't want an automatic before I got my 2015 Mazda3 2.2d, now I don't want a manual in a daily driver ever again. Some people like to drive, others like to simply steer 
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Dec 4, 2017 14:23
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regulargonzalez posted:Some people like to drive, others like to simply steer To and from work in the daily I mostly just steer, adaptive cruise does the rest, so I guess that's pretty accurate
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Dec 4, 2017 15:20
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I'd rather be texting than shifting
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Dec 4, 2017 15:33
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Wibla posted:To and from work in the daily I mostly just steer, adaptive cruise does the rest, so I guess that's pretty accurate I'm trying to decide between manual and auto in my next car, considering I do 100km per day on Canada's most congested highways I'm leaning towards auto...but man I miss having a stick-shift.
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Dec 4, 2017 15:37
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MA-Horus posted:I'm trying to decide between manual and auto in my next car, considering I do 100km per day on Canada's most congested highways I'm leaning towards auto...but man I miss having a stick-shift. Honestly? If you're looking at a Mazda, just get the automatic. The Skyactiv automatic is super awesome to drive, it locks up pretty much as soon as its moving, so you don't get that typical slushbox feeling where the motor revs before anything happens. Just make sure you get the package with adaptive cruise control, adaptive lights etc.
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Dec 4, 2017 16:09
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When I looked into getting a Mazda 6 I read only good things about the auto. So much so that it made me want to have the auto over the manual.
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Dec 5, 2017 08:16
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I love the SkyActiv auto in my Mazda3 coming from an '08 WRX manual; but I have a terrible commute in Chicago traffic so having an auto-manual is a nice compromise.
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Dec 6, 2017 03:19
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I guess there's a packaging issue with the turbo motor, AWD, and the 3/6.  That combo won't be possible until the next platform refresh at the earliest - although supposedly the Skyactiv-X 3 is going to come alongside a new platform as well.I'd be okay with another FWD Speed3. The TypeR shows it can be done well. They'd definitely need to re-tune the engine to have it rev faster, but there's a lot of potential when you're talking about 300+ ft/lbs already. I'd totally get an auto one lol
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Dec 6, 2017 08:32
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You can get the diesel and AWD and I really doubt that's any more compact
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Dec 6, 2017 09:07
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AWD turbo Mazdaspeed 3 with a DSG, take all my money.
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Dec 6, 2017 13:36
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MA-Horus posted:AWD turbo Mazdaspeed 3 with a DSG, take all my money. Then they sell 800 and kill it, everyone bitches. The cycle repeats.
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Dec 6, 2017 14:42
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Let's be fair, it's Mazdaspeed. It would have something where it would blow the engine up - like lugging it in 5th/6th on the MS3, or driving it at all on the MSP
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Dec 6, 2017 14:44
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Then they sell 800 and kill it, everyone bitches. The cycle repeats. This for every performance/hatchback/wagon/even slightly niche vehicle, ever. "I'd totally buy that brown diesel manual wagon. Used."
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Dec 6, 2017 16:38
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dissss posted:You can get the diesel and AWD and I really doubt that's any more compact The 2.5T has a bunch of new/weird jazz going on with it. From the horse's mouth... quote:"I think we are not able to combine four-wheel drive and the 2.5-liter turbo. We have a layout issue with the sedans, that's why a four-wheel drive isn't deployed on the Mazda 3 and 6 so far," Moro said. "But there is a huge demand, at least what I know is that in the East Coast of the USA, 80 or 90 percent of premium sedans are sold with all-wheel drive." Larrymer posted:This for every performance/hatchback/wagon/even slightly niche vehicle, ever. "I'd totally buy that brown diesel manual wagon. Used." The Mazdaspeed3 sold well enough to keep it throughout the life of the Ford-based 3. The GTI, Focus ST, and Civic SI sell well enough, too. I think if there was a version of the 3 that had the turbo motor and a package similar to the Club package in the Miata (Recaros, Brembos, suspension, BBS, LSD, some aero) it'd do well enough even if it were FWD. (An AWD monster Golf R / STI / RS competitor would be great too but I'm not sure they'd go straight there before having the GTI competitor?)
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Dec 6, 2017 22:15
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I'd buy a new MS3 to replace my current one if I were in the market. Especially if Recaros were an option.
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Dec 6, 2017 23:57
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Has anyone moved their Mazda to a colder climate? I work where it freezes harder more regularly and wanted to beef up my protection a bit. I think my antifreeze is pretty thin, was just going to add some 50/50 (reservoir is right in the middle of the range, never had any issues). Forgot my tester but I figure adding can’t hurt. Also manual recommends 0W-20 oil, is there any reason to step up to 5W or anything due to the cold (or do I have that bass ackwards)?
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Dec 9, 2017 17:51
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You'd be better off adding full-strength antifreeze if you're just trying to up the mixture a bit. 60/40 antifreeze/water is what I see recommended for cold climates. And you've got it backwards on the oil. You want thinner grades in the cold - but you're already at 0w20 so just keep running that.
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Dec 9, 2017 17:59
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MS3 was showing signs of the VVT issue as it got colder this week and my plan of bringing it in today was ruined by the car not even starting this morning. Towed it to a dealer and fingers crossed that pistons didn't hit valves 
air- fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 17:23
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Hey gang gotta update for ya. After my last post I spent a few days mulling on the problem.  I knocked out the stud and started calling around to machine shops and local autoshops to see if anyone could cut things down. After my fifth or sixth "sorry, I can't do that", I remembered that my mechanics neighbor is an old school Volvo mechanic and might be able to help me out. The call went pretty much as you'd expect, with him three steps ahead of me as I started describing the issue. He even postulated the other solutions available, such as lopping the endcap off the lug nut but in the end said he'd take a peek for me. I biked over and suddenly understood why he has been in business since the early 1970s.   He told me he'd get to it the next day so I went home and got to clay barring and waxing the rest of the car.   I'd only gotten halfway through when he called me back to say he'd cut down a couple of the studs and chamfered the ends as we agreed upon. $10 and a "good luck" and I was on my way. Now I've never done this kinda job before but forums regular TerribleRobot's advice in pulling studs through the bearing spindle proved invaluable. Such as using a big socket wrench on the lug nut instead of monkeying with a 4-way lug wrench and nut adapter. Sufficed to say, the lug was swapped out per factory methodology. I also realized that several of the lug nuts had severely damaged internal threading which was causing even more damage on the already damaged rear studs. I found a couple spares in the glove box with good threading which allowed me to put off doing the rear stud(s) for a little while. I have 1 out of 2 studs cut, but I don't have a screwdriver large enough to knock out the screws holding the drum in place and I am still not 100% sure they're a standard phillips head or a JiS head. More research will be required.   A couple days later it snowed for the first time in almost a decade here so I took a fun picture.  In a fit of drunken anger over the road noise associated with mildly dry rotted 2014 vintage tires, I ordered a set of Fuzion Falcon Sincera Sn250 A/S tires (185/60r/15) which had a $50 off discount from TireBuyer.com. There aren't a ton of reviews on these tires out there, but the price was right over a set of comparable General AltiMax 43Rs. The latter of which is a much harder compound for cooler climates wheras these are much softer and tuned for a quiet ride. As many of you know the 2 is known for being pretty loud, so anything I can do to mitigate that is paramount. They came in yesterday so I just had them mounted about an hour ago. The difference in road noise is night and day. I haven't driven far enough to really get a good feel for the overall quality of tire they are, but considering my historic reference points are heavily worn or dry rotted tires on cheap poo poo-boxes this is definitely a step up. All in all a productive, albeit mildly expensive month. Next on the list: stockpiling parts for a suspension rebuild and autistically researching tint. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Dec 16, 2017 |
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Dec 16, 2017 20:30
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MC Hawking posted:Shortening studs Nice job all around there.
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Dec 16, 2017 20:52
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Thanks man! I know I've chatted with you about this on IRC a bit and I appreciate the help that y'all have provided. I fully intend on doing the rear studs, but I want to make sure my measurements are correct before I start lopping off the other 3 uncut ARP studs I have on hand. The only way to make that call is pull the drum, but to pull the drum I need A: the proper size screwdriver/impact head to break the screws free and B: spare hardware in the event I break something. As a bit of a philosophical note that I've touched on before, I absolutely love diagnostic work. I love figuring out what portions of a system are worn or failing and then figuring out how to fix it. But I loathe getting my hands dirty. I am frightened of the idea that I could break something that wasn't broken before I started to dig around. What I am loving so much about this vehicle is how plainly it's laid out. I know that I can fix it. Overcoming that mental blockage of "well you're a complete fuckup of a human if you break this" has been part of the learning process and I am a better person for the effort. Part of growing up and being an adult is relying on your own innate skills and trusting yourself to do a good job. I can't trust anyone else to do it right, so why doubt myself? In the mean time I can just wear gloves to keep the dirt off. 
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Dec 17, 2017 09:04
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For those screws holding the drum on, get one of the hammer-style impact screw drivers. This is a job they are perfect for.
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Dec 17, 2017 16:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:For those screws holding the drum on, get one of the hammer-style impact screw drivers. This is a job they are perfect for. And if you really, really want to punish those screws, let me introduce you to the Shake 'n' Break: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pwz-NXj5ZIk
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Dec 17, 2017 17:51
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Good news: thank gently caress, engine isn't dead. Bad news: There's quite a list of poo poo to do   They said do G, H, I, and R to get the car up and running again, which will run me ~$1800. I can't tell where to start on the rest 
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Dec 18, 2017 19:01
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So the A/C compressor seized and that's why it's not starting? Sounds like they're lumping in every maintenance thing they can on that bill. And most of it is wildly overpriced. Guessing this is a Mazda dealer and not an independent shop.
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Dec 18, 2017 19:24
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Who does estimate lines alphabetically what the gently caress
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Dec 18, 2017 19:26
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$84 for spark plug replacement? 
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Dec 18, 2017 19:31
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Larrymer posted:So the A/C compressor seized and that's why it's not starting? Yeah, it can happen. A locked serpentine belt is a lot of work for an engine and starter motor to overcome. I *think* the compressor on my MS3 was making GBS threads the bed when I traded it in. It started giving me intermittent cooling and when I hooked a gauge up to it, the pressures were all over the loving place. Are they asking to replace the engine covers on item T? The gently caress? The Aardvark posted:$84 for spark plug replacement? That I believe - this is a MS3, right? It's not the end of the world but at dealer labor rates that's a lot of fiddly hoses to get back in place.
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Dec 18, 2017 19:33
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