|
2002 F150 4.6L 4x4, I've noticed an oil leak that I want to fix (or at least figure out where it's coming from) but I currently don't have much for tools aside from a socket/wrench set. What's the consensus on the oil dye leak detection kits? I'm due for an oil change anyway so it won't be in the engine for very long.
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 16:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 02:25 |
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:2002 F150 4.6L 4x4, I've noticed an oil leak that I want to fix (or at least figure out where it's coming from) but I currently don't have much for tools aside from a socket/wrench set. What's the consensus on the oil dye leak detection kits? I'm due for an oil change anyway so it won't be in the engine for very long. My suggestion would be to find the area where you think the oil leak is coming from and spray it down with brake cleaner. That should clear away the gunk and help you track down where the oil is coming from without messing with things too much. If you still cant find it, then start looking at things like the dye.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 19:00
|
|
|
flightless greeb posted:I'm getting a new Nissan Rogue S model (base model, no options) as a company car and I'm wondering if there's anything non permanent I can do to make it a nicer place to be? I'm guessing there's nothing I can do about how slow it is without jeopardizing warranties etc. Other than an aux cable, a phone holder, and a USB plug, you might be SOL on this one
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2017 21:01
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:2002 F150 4.6L 4x4, I've noticed an oil leak that I want to fix (or at least figure out where it's coming from) but I currently don't have much for tools aside from a socket/wrench set. What's the consensus on the oil dye leak detection kits? I'm due for an oil change anyway so it won't be in the engine for very long. After trying to fix my oil leak from hell for my much older F150, I can tell you to just buy a roll of those blue paper towels and get to wiping down every seal you can find, then drive it around for 10-20 minutes and check the seals again. Start at the top and work down. Don't be fooled by oil leaking out a higher seal and dripping down onto a lower seal.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 00:06
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:Other than an aux cable, a phone holder, and a USB plug, you might be SOL on this one It's even white, the most appliancey color :/
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:2002 F150 4.6L 4x4, I've noticed an oil leak that I want to fix (or at least figure out where it's coming from) but I currently don't have much for tools aside from a socket/wrench set. What's the consensus on the oil dye leak detection kits? I'm due for an oil change anyway so it won't be in the engine for very long. you need this. http://www.gunk.com/products/cat_det.asp get the foamy. any auto parts store should have it. Spray the whole can everywhere you think theres a leak. Let it sit for ten min. Wash it off go for a drive check for leaks. Im willing to bet its your valve cover gasket. It will make a mess so do it somewhere with a drain. I suggest a self serve car wash but use the pressure washer on the lowest setting and dont spray your fuse boxes. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Dec 1, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 06:42
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That hose should be pretty flexible. But worst case, with a cool engine and the cap removed, just remove the hose from the tank. It's held on by a clamp that you can remove with pliers - pull the clamp back a couple of inches (you should be able to feel when it slips all the way off of the plastic nipple), twist the hose a bit to break it free (may need to use the pliers to do this, if you do, clamp them close to the tank and don't use much pressure, just enough to twist the hose on the nipple), remove it from the tank by hand. thanks for the reply bro
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 15:53
|
|
|
flightless greeb posted:I'm getting a new Nissan Rogue S model (base model, no options) as a company car and I'm wondering if there's anything non permanent I can do to make it a nicer place to be? I'm guessing there's nothing I can do about how slow it is without jeopardizing warranties etc. This is really stupid - but go to the parts store and get a very thick leather steering wheel cover. For some reason it makes any car feel 100% better to me. I daily a 94 beige camry but somehow the steering wheel cover makes it feel sportier. (maybe its just me)
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 16:22
|
|
|
flightless greeb posted:I'm getting a new Nissan Rogue S model (base model, no options) as a company car and I'm wondering if there's anything non permanent I can do to make it a nicer place to be? I'm guessing there's nothing I can do about how slow it is without jeopardizing warranties etc. Also, work out how to connect your phone or stand-alone MP3 player to the car's stereo system. Find some podcasts and music you like, of more than a few hours duration (a dozen songs is pathetic, why do people do this? don't do that. Put like 1000 songs onto a device to play in the car). This turns your car into a place where you can at least groove to your tunes, which will make it a more appealing place to be.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 16:33
|
|
|
Thanks for the oil leak ideas, I'll start digging in this weekend!
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 16:42
|
|
|
I have a question, I am looking to get a Land rover, and the dealer has a 2016 one being sold as new, with 6k miles. They said it was just being used as a loaner. Is there any pitfall if I want to purchase this car? It's weird that a 2 year old car is being sold as new, so I don't know? It's 12k off from MSRP.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 21:00
|
|
|
Ok, same 2006 4.2l v6 F150 engine from earlier. I was looking around, and, well. I can't find the idle air control valve.... I'm guessing it's built into the throttle body(which Ford says has a special coating and can't be cleaned)? But then why does everyone list one for this engine?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 23:16
|
|
|
Yeah, that looks like an electronic throttle body - most (all?) cars with those don't have a separate IAC, since they can just vary how open the throttle is at idle. Maybe it was a mid-year change?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 23:19
|
|
|
I have a dilemma, and I'm hoping for some ideas. This is mostly an insurance question. I moved from Ontario to Quebec, and I want to register my car (1997 Ford Ranger) in Quebec. I took it to an inspection station, it has a few problems that must be fixed before it can be registered here, but is mechanically able to drive. Since then, my Ontario car insurance has expired, but the registration (license plates) is good until March. I have an appointment at a mechanic for Monday to fix the issues. It's not legal for me to drive my car on the road without insurance. The tow truck companies I have talked to tell me they cannot tow a car that does not have insurance. The insurance companies tell me they cannot insure my car - the Quebec companies because it is not registered in Quebec, the Ontario companies because I don't live in Ontario any more. I *do* have an address in Ontario that perhaps I could use to buy Ontario insurance with - I have relatives in Ontario and a family cottage that is nobody's permanent residence. I can think of layers of problems with any plan involving these addresses, though. I'm not looking to commit insurance fraud here. The mechanic's shop is very close to my apartment, about 200m away, but the inspection station is further, maybe 10 km. The mechanics around here are very busy which is why I couldn't get an appointment before my Ontario insurance expired on November 19. I didn't renew it because I didn't realize I would have this problem - tow trucks refusing uninsured cars is a surprise to me. How do you transport an uninsured car, like when you bring a trailer and buy a car from some person? One idea I had is to rent a truck + car trailer from U-Haul and use that to get my Ranger to all the places it needs to be. But the fact that tow trucks can't pick up uninsured cars makes me wonder if my car has to be insured to put it on a U-Haul trailer. Does anybody have any experience with uninsured cars on trailers? How do junkyards that pick up cars handle this? Lots of what they pick up must be uninsured. I'm open to any ideas people might have. I'm going away for three weeks over christmas and part of me just wants to leave this problem until next year.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 23:30
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, that looks like an electronic throttle body - most (all?) cars with those don't have a separate IAC, since they can just vary how open the throttle is at idle. Maybe it was a mid-year change? Well crap. I can't clean it, apparently, and I've got rough idling and stalling. Haven't touched the MAF yet, and my code reader will be in tomorrow. Any other suggestions? Or do I just need to sit on my hands and wait on data? Oh, no CEL right now either.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2017 23:32
|
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:Well crap. I can't clean it, apparently, and I've got rough idling and stalling. Haven't touched the MAF yet, and my code reader will be in tomorrow. Any other suggestions? Is it dirty? Pull the intake boots and look. I think actual throttle body cleaner will leave the coating intact. I have a hard time believing you cant clean crud out of it. Maybe try a small area? E: Actually looking at your pictures, is that an electronic throttle body? No cable? You can clean it, just disconnect/remove it to get to the back side. Dont try to force the butterflies open. Some of those also have to be calibrated but I am not sure if yours is one of them. https://youtu.be/ZNxXM75zJOw He shows what scanner data to look at near the end. He has a video on how to clean it as well. rdb fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Dec 2, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 00:01
|
|
|
dreesemonkey posted:I have an eye on a set of steelies/winter tires for my car ('99 avalon). The wheels were on a '06 Mazda 6. The bolt pattern is the same, but the center bore size is different between the Avalon (60.1mm) and the 6 (67.1mm - though I have no idea what the steelies are). Does it matter as long as the hub diameter of the wheel is larger than what I have? Followup - I bought the set of wheels, guy was really cool. Now I need to know where to measure the center bore. On the inside of the wheel there is a beveled area, and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to measure the inside or the outer ring of the bevel. I looked on the rim and there didn't seem to be a measurement other than the rim size 16x6.5 I measure the green area diameter, which was pretty much 2 5/8" (66.675mm). But if it's the outer, red diameter, that is something else entirely (roughly 3", 76.2mm)  Without the graphic representation:  I also just read that steel wheels are often lug-centric, not hub centric from here. quote:For steel rims, a lot of them are not hubcentric but lug centric, meaning they are centered by the lugs. It is important to always install these with the vehicle on jack stands and the wheels off the ground. The wheel will center when tightening the nuts down, and not having the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheel will prevent it from being pushed off center.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 01:05
|
|
|
You measure the green area, and for $6 I would use the rings. I think the original sizes you specified are correct.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 01:42
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:How do you transport an uninsured car, like when you bring a trailer and buy a car from some person? One idea I had is to rent a truck + car trailer from U-Haul and use that to get my Ranger to all the places it needs to be. But the fact that tow trucks can't pick up uninsured cars makes me wonder if my car has to be insured to put it on a U-Haul trailer. Does anybody have any experience with uninsured cars on trailers? That's... a new one on me, but I'm not in Canada. I know in the US, you can legally tow a car on a trailer without current registration or insurance as long as none of the car's wheels are touching the ground (i.e. all 4 wheels on the trailer, not a trailer dolly that leaves 2 wheels on the ground). You might check around locally to see if this is the case there (I can't imagine why you couldn't tow your own vehicle somewhere on a rented trailer), or your mechanic may know someone who would be willing to tow it. Did you get this answer from just a couple of tow companies? Maybe they just don't want to deal with such a short tow to the mechanic. I'd suggest maybe calling CAA Quebec for advice, but they may not be much help unless you're a member Where I'm at, you can't get your vehicle inspected without insurance. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 07:21
|
|
|
What are the chances of you getting stopped/being in an accident in the 10kms from your place? I would just drive it (being extra careful of course)
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2017 15:05
|
|
|
Welp, after replacing the RMS and lower intake manifold gaskets, my truck still leaks oil. I hate this truck. 1988 F150 5L. What is even left for oil to leak out like this? It still looks like it's coming out the back of the engine, but I'm not sure because it's dark now and I spilled a little oil filling it up. I'm almost certain that it has leaked out more oil than what I spilled. I need to give it a good wipe down in the morning and run it again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:02
|
|
|
Valvecover gaskets?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:11
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Valvecover gaskets? I did those 5(?) years ago. How long do they last? I saw oil on the backs of them, but I figure it was from my spill job.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:24
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Welp, after replacing the RMS and lower intake manifold gaskets, my truck still leaks oil. I hate this truck. 1988 F150 5L. What about the oil sender?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 01:42
|
|
|
shy boy from chess club posted:What about the oil sender? Just replaced it, Motorcraft too because the cheap ones didn't work right with the gauge. But that's up front. Is there some pressure test a shop could do to narrow this search down? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 02:03
|
|
|
Only if you want to blow that new RMS out. Take it to a self service car wash, spray it down with engine cleaner (this is available from the hose at the self serve places around here), blast it with rinse (making sure to avoid the distributor and EEC stuff, avoid the alternator as much as you can too), focusing on the leak-stained areas. Add UV dye to the oil.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 06:35
|
|
|
2007 Honda Accord, 2.4 L, 5 speed, 113k Still pondering why this thing usually gets kinda subpar fuel economy. Not lugging it, etc. It gets like 21mpg city, 28/29 hwy. EPA is 27 city and like 32 or something hwy. I know EPA numbers aren't real world, but I still think it should do better than 21/29. I had a long freeway drive of over two hours round trip. These images were taken a few minutes after getting off the freeway, and with the car having sat idling for 2-3 minutes after parking. Not shut off between the trip and the data being captured. Ambient air temp was 37f. I hooked up my scanner, image album here: https://imgur.com/a/a6JlR Edit: photos in album are out of order, I don't think it matters though. I can try and fix them if needed. First two images is showing variation on that O2 sensor. It would hang out around .3v with variation, then go and hover around .7v with variation. Ignition advance was around 7.x and 8.x, it was just changing when I snapped the photo. Does anything here look interesting?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 15:34
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:words I'm in MB, I had a glance at the Onterrible website and I think it's close enough to the MB system you could get a temporary sticker. So, You still have all the Ontario paperwork right? Like, registration and all that junk that would indicate the car as of last Ontario registration is still "Fit" (whatever that means). You only failed the safety in Quebec so it doesn't automatically void your Onterrible registration because technically the car never failed a safety there. Get a temporary registration sticker which is apparently good for 10 days and then you can drive it to a mechanic's in QC or get it towed or whatever. In MB how it works is when you go to buy a car you can drive it on the seller's plates provided you are driving it to an insurance place. There, if you don't have a valid safety you can transfer the title of the car and pay your taxes and all that and you can buy temporary insurance "temp tags" in increments of up to 6 months. Temp tags don't require a safety, leading to all kinds of cars that wouldn't pass safety running on temp tags forever. Pretty sure we have had a JDM skyline run on temp tags for years here. Either way, it looks like you best/cheapest bet is to get a temporary Ontario insurance sticker. I wouldn't risk driving any distance with an unregistered vehicle.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 17:45
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:2007 Honda Accord, 2.4 L, 5 speed, 113k It's hard to tell from still pictures, but moreover, the update rate of the screen on those scanners isn't really going to give you a good idea if the O2 is switching at the right speed. It hovers up and down above the stoichiometric line, and that tells the ECU where the fuel ratio needs to be. More useful are the short-term and especially the long-term fuel trim. This is showing how much fuel the car is having to add to keep it at the correct AF ratio. The current standard EPA numbers for a 2007 Accord 2.4L 5 speed are 23 city/31 highway. The tank average on Fuelly is between 25-27mpg. You're not too far off but there are a lot of little things you could check/do to bring it up. Oxygen sensors have a life of 100k technically. After that they slow down and could cause following errors as the ecu corrects the fuel ratios to compensate. At some point this will turn the check engine light on, but only when it's causing a MAJOR issue. The check engine light is only supposed to come on for emissions problems and then only if a system exceeding the federal standard by more than 50%. Spark plugs also have a life of 100k in that car. Get the OEM brand and type of plugs. Don't go cheap. Don't try to get fancy. The OEM plug is NGK Laser Iridium IZFR6K11 part number 6994. These are pre-gapped. Tire pressure can have an effect if it's not set correctly. Tire tread design has a small effect too. Low rolling resistance tires can help a bit. There are a lot of LRR options out there, and often it's hard to avoid them now. Injectors could be dirty, use a fuel system cleaner like techron to clean them up. Years of crappy gas can make them sad. I swear to god that Techron is magical and has brought a few of my cars back to life. The engine air filter is easy to check on your car. 4 phillips screws let you see it. If it looks clean, and you can see light through the filter, it's probably fine, otherwise replace it. Oil weight (5w-20) and quantity has to be exactly correct on a car with VTEC. The variable valve timing uses oil pressure to decide when to phase the cams, and lock into other profiles. Cheap oil filters could affect oil pressure numbers. Synthetic oil? It's only going to change how long you have to wait to change it. The motor doesn't care. I do 4-5k for conventional and 7-8k for synthetic. There are a lot of little things that could have an effect on your mpg, but one of the ones people don't realize is that warm-ups REALLY have a huge effect. My drive to work is very short - only 2 miles. My Prius C only gets 24mpg on this drive because it's warming itself up. If I go drive somewhere farther - like the movie theater 6 miles away, then it'll get over 50mpg like a prius says on the sticker. 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:2007 Honda Accord, 2.4 L, 5 speed, 113k The o2 sensor is normal, same with advance. This is what the front o2 graph looks like on my S2000 at idle (ignore the fuel trim, my car has a second ECU controlling a lot of things):  You might want to get one of the cheap OBD2 plugin units and OBD Fusion (or whatever) for your phone so you can graph. What tires/tire pressure do you run? Your mileage seems inline with real world.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 18:04
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:2007 Honda Accord, 2.4 L, 5 speed, 113k What does it do when u give it throttle? Like if u hold her at 3k?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 18:10
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:It's hard to tell from still pictures, but moreover, the update rate of the screen on those scanners isn't really going to give you a good idea if the O2 is switching at the right speed. It hovers up and down above the stoichiometric line, and that tells the ECU where the fuel ratio needs to be. More useful are the short-term and especially the long-term fuel trim. This is showing how much fuel the car is having to add to keep it at the correct AF ratio. First off sorry, my numbers are off. I had been up for 24 hrs and was shooting from the hip. Went back and looked at my records, and my tank avg is somewhere around 22.6 mpg. Lows for heavy city driving tanks are around 17.5 to 19, highs if I mix in some hwy miles on there it goes up to 23 ish. Pure highway driving I can get 27 to 30 mpg. Did anything look interesting to you for my fuel trim numbers? I can post a graph of my recorded fuel economy if anyone thinks it's useful. I try to log every tank until I forget about it  quote:Oxygen sensors have a life of 100k technically. After that they slow down and could cause following errors as the ecu corrects the fuel ratios to compensate. At some point this will turn the check engine light on, but only when it's causing a MAJOR issue. The check engine light is only supposed to come on for emissions problems and then only if a system exceeding the federal standard by more than 50%. Spark plugs have less than 10k on em right now, when I changed them it didn't effect fuel economy. I did an exact match to OEM, so those are the plugs in there. Pricey but I've learned from you guys to stick with factory spec on plugs. I'll double check my tires, I keep an eye on them but I haven't looked in awhile. quote:Injectors could be dirty, use a fuel system cleaner like techron to clean them up. Years of crappy gas can make them sad. I swear to god that Techron is magical and has brought a few of my cars back to life. I've run two cans of seafoam through the tank, usually with half a tank or less in it. Air filter was changed and is under the service interval in miles. The dealer I got the car from didn't even bother half assing maintenance before they sold it to me. You shoulda seen the passenger compartment air filter.  quote:Oil weight (5w-20) and quantity has to be exactly correct on a car with VTEC. The variable valve timing uses oil pressure to decide when to phase the cams, and lock into other profiles. Cheap oil filters could affect oil pressure numbers. Synthetic oil? It's only going to change how long you have to wait to change it. The motor doesn't care. I do 4-5k for conventional and 7-8k for synthetic. I've been feeding it 0w20 Mobil 1 and high end filters, no fram. Usually Mobil 1 filter unless one of the other good ones are on sale. I'm in my car a lot, so yea short trips are unavoidable, but it gets up to temp and runs long hours quite frequently as well. I drive a lot I'm a touch over 15k miles for the year, which is average ish I think. BlackMK4 posted:The o2 sensor is normal, same with advance. This is what the front o2 graph looks like on my S2000 at idle (ignore the fuel trim, my car has a second ECU controlling a lot of things): I got one... somewhere, but I have an iphone now. Maybe I can borrow an android from someone to see what Torque will tell me. Preoptopus posted:What does it do when u give it throttle? Like if u hold her at 3k? I'll check. Since i'm stuck with the old school scanner, any variables I should be looking at specifically? Edit: fuel economy graph. 
`Nemesis fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Dec 3, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 20:10
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Welp, after replacing the RMS and lower intake manifold gaskets, my truck still leaks oil. I hate this truck. 1988 F150 5L. You think there could be a crack in the block back there somewhere? Are there any oil passages in the back of the block? Un-related, long shot etc....... But the hydraulic hammer on one of my machines had to be replaced last year (for 20 loving thousand dollars) and one of the issues we brought it in to look at, was a mysterious hydraulic oil leak that only happened when the hammer was activated. The rest of the time it didn't exist. When it was taken apart, the crack was obvious, but in the mean time, when it was all together, and hammer not being used (its bad to dry fire the hammer) there was no leak. If I'm not mistaken, the 5.0 blocks have been known to break in half. So a crack thats not leading to the inside of a cylinder, coolant passage might not be unheard of. I know, I know, super long shot etc....
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 20:57
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:The o2 sensor is normal, same with advance. This is what the front o2 graph looks like on my S2000 at idle (ignore the fuel trim, my car has a second ECU controlling a lot of things): Pretty sure Honda was using widerange sensors upstream at that point so this graph is confusing to me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 21:42
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Just replaced it, Motorcraft too because the cheap ones didn't work right with the gauge. But that's up front. An oil galley plug might have given out or sucked in. Theres one below the distributor im pretty sure
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 21:53
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Pretty sure Honda was using widerange sensors upstream at that point so this graph is confusing to me. S2000 (or, at least, the AP1) had a narrowband. The K24A2 Accord had a narrowband, also. Maybe his motor has a wideband, though....
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 22:20
|
|
|
DogonCrook posted:An oil galley plug might have given out or sucked in. Theres one below the distributor im pretty sure I think the ford small blocks had the distributor on the front.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 22:28
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:I think the ford small blocks had the distributor on the front. They do. I just replaced its O ring too. The old one was so brittle I had to break it off. That being said, I don't remember seeing any galley plugs on this engine when I had the transmission and plate off, but I didn't look too hard. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Only if you want to blow that new RMS out. ...I'm listening. This engine already leaks oil and I'm that frustrated with it. The only thing I can think of is the valve cover gaskets. I'll do that dye test just to make sure.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2017 23:49
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:Did anything look interesting to you for my fuel trim numbers? I'd be much more interested in the tires though. What mfg/model. how much tread is on em. What size are they. Steelies (LX) or alloy (EX). What pressures are you running?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 00:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 02:25 |
|
|
0toShifty posted:Well in the last picture, long term fuel trim is up slightly, but only 1.6% is hardly noticeable. That picture was taken while stopped. A datalog might be a bit more interesting, but would require a very fancy/expensive scanner. Knowing what your drives are like and what sort of traffic/roads/speeds you normally drive might shed even more light. The fronts are mismatched garbage with about 40% life left Alloys, 205/60/R16 One is a MasterCraft Avenger Sport Touring One is a Mirada Sport GTX Touring These things suck real bad in wet and snow, can't wait to ditch them. Rear tires were new a year ago when I got the car, plenty of good tread left, but I'm keeping them on the rears cause they actually do OK in wet/snow. I'm not rotating my tires right now for this reason. Rears are Cooper CS5 Grand Touring Unsure on current pressures, can't check right now, but I'd aim for 32 psi.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2017 01:31
|
|