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Don't they have 'always store upright' written on them in the US?
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Dec 6, 2017 05:03
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Like endurance races? That's pretty cool actually Yup, I think someone cheated last year and used three donor scooters.  Slavvy posted:Are you referring to the whenuipai races Odette? Parents live in Whangamata, so I think it's a Coromandel thing.
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Dec 6, 2017 07:07
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I have a 2015 Yamaha R3 ABS, and want to bleed the brakes myself. I've done it on a non-ABS Ninja 250 before. Is there anything special I would need to do for the ABS system? I know on linked brakes systems on certain Harley and Honda bikes it needs a tool plugged into the electrical system to force the ABS unit to cycle, would I be able to bleed these like normal, go for a ride and force the ABS to engage a few times to circulate its old fluid around, then re-bleed?
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Dec 6, 2017 07:29
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Odette posted:Yup, I think someone cheated last year and used three donor scooters. What kind of endurance are we talking about, exactly? I'd hope that a scooter engine would last at least a few dozen hours of high-throttle use, but even a full 24 hours of endurance racing is really challenging to organize. Do scooters just blow up a lot more frequently than I imagine?
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Dec 6, 2017 22:13
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Yes.
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Dec 6, 2017 22:52
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Tiny two stroke engines are really strained by continued full throttle running, they wind up starving themselves of lubrication. They are happiest at varied rpm’s like you would see on the street. Street riding for 24 hours straight would be far easier on a scooter motor (obviously as many scooters do hundreds or thousands of hours on the stock bore on the street). Scavenging is a bitch. Of course there are ways around this, as two strokes were raced professionally at all levels for decades. Those things tend not to be built into your average Honda spree though. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 6, 2017 |
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Dec 6, 2017 23:23
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Fwiw the last time I attended such an event the 4t gy6 bikes fell over dead first, mostly followed by Korean stuff. The longest lasting seemed to be the 2t Yamaha and Suzuki or derivations thereof. Only one guy had the sack to bring a Vespa and he did ok.
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Dec 7, 2017 00:56
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How does a 2-stroke starve itself of lubrication? Can't you increase the premix a bit? Is it just that the constant higher temperatures end up burning off the oil before it does any good, or what?
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Dec 7, 2017 03:09
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I was under the impression that steady running is better for 2 stroke due to the oiling being dependent upon opening the throttle. So if you're closing it on a premixed engine, you're closing off the lubrication feed too. Less an issue on models with an injection pump because that runs at engine speed.
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Dec 7, 2017 03:15
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I remember Suzukis being regarded as the most reliable self-oiling two strokes (funny enough, what with that recent opinion in the other thread).
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Dec 7, 2017 03:23
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All scavenging cycles have natural dead spots where oil either pools or doesn’t hit at different rpm’s. Varying the rpm’s in street riding scenarios negates those problems. Holding an engine wide open exacerbates them. Adding oil makes the bike run lean, which is also not good for longevity. Adding fuel to compensate just makes the problem worse but different Race two strokes at built with crank cases specifically designed to scavenge well at sustained high rpm’s. Which is coincidentally why they also tend to run like poo poo below 5 grand. Of course there are motors that naturally stand up to this better than others but in general you should assume it’s iffy to hold a two stroke at any certain rpm for a long time. Caveats of course for things like the GT750 that were built for slabbing. Scooters though, usually aren’t. Slide Hammer posted:I remember Suzukis being regarded as the most reliable self-oiling two strokes (funny enough, what with that recent opinion in the other thread). They are, by far. Other manufacturers eventually caught up by the late 70’s, but in general if you want a 70’s two stroke and you want to rely on it, you should get a Suzuki. The CCI system was worlds beyond what the other big 3 were doing. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Dec 7, 2017 |
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Dec 7, 2017 03:27
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Huh. What about my 2-stroke 10hp outboard motor, which seems to do a perfectly fine job running at full throttle 100% of the time it's on year after year? I suppose Mercury just knew that that's how people use boat motors, and built it to do that?
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Dec 7, 2017 03:34
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Slide Hammer posted:I remember Suzukis being regarded as the most reliable self-oiling two strokes (funny enough, what with that recent opinion in the other thread). Yeah the RGV is a cut above the other 2t minigp twins because of having a dedicated oil pump. Also suzukis aren't poo poo and nobody in the other thread, including me, really said that. It's one of those things goons tend to tilt at windmills about. Sagebrush posted:Huh. What about my 2-stroke 10hp outboard motor, which seems to do a perfectly fine job running at full throttle 100% of the time it's on year after year? I suppose Mercury just knew that that's how people use boat motors, and built it to do that? Your outboard is designed to run at one RPM all the time which is a fuckload easier than designing something that runs at a variety of revs and loads that constantly change.
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Dec 7, 2017 03:53
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Sagebrush posted:What kind of endurance are we talking about, exactly? I'd hope that a scooter engine would last at least a few dozen hours of high-throttle use, but even a full 24 hours of endurance racing is really challenging to organize. Do scooters just blow up a lot more frequently than I imagine? Most of these scooters are lovely secondhand ones. The participants basically trawl TradeMe (local Craigslist) for the cheapest nastiest whorish scooters that they can find and use them until they break.
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Dec 7, 2017 07:30
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Sagebrush posted:Huh. What about my 2-stroke 10hp outboard motor, which seems to do a perfectly fine job running at full throttle 100% of the time it's on year after year? I suppose Mercury just knew that that's how people use boat motors, and built it to do that? Yes, that’s exactly what they did
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Dec 7, 2017 13:47
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Kind of a random question, for a “supermoto” conversion, I see premade kits and stuff with wheels and bigger disks and stuff like that, but isn’t there more to it? Like doesn’t the handling change by going to a smaller diameter front wheel, and do you have to compensate for that? and don’t you need some hub upgrades on the rear wheel?
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Dec 8, 2017 04:32
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Sumo conversions will involve a set of wheels+hubs and tires, usually a new 320mm front rotor and either a caliper bracket or a bracket and new caliper if you want to go radial mount. Springing for a cush hub in the rear is usually a good idea but not 100% necessary. You'll need a new rear sprocket and possibly a front sprocket and chain to go with it. If your donor bike isn't an enduro you'll need lights, signals, mirrors, etc. too. You might also want to put a Vapor or some other speedo/odo on it, and a keyed ignition. This is why I laughed when I asked the Yamaha rep if the mothership would ever bring another factory sumo to the US and he told me to just convert a WR450. By the time you spring for a nice wheel set, tires, etc. on top of a new WR450 you might as well go buy a 701. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Dec 8, 2017 |
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Dec 8, 2017 04:42
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A MIRACLE posted:Kind of a random question, for a “supermoto” conversion, I see premade kits and stuff with wheels and bigger disks and stuff like that, but isn’t there more to it? Like doesn’t the handling change by going to a smaller diameter front wheel, and do you have to compensate for that? and don’t you need some hub upgrades on the rear wheel? It changes in a good way. What do you mean by hub upgrades?
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Dec 8, 2017 05:33
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Slavvy posted:It changes in a good way. What do you mean by hub upgrades? the cush drive thing, it's my understanding that dirt bikes don't come with that but you could gently caress up *something* without one
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Dec 8, 2017 05:52
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Who knew I can't read. Yeah it can chew up the output shaft splines on some bikes depending on how you ride.
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Dec 8, 2017 08:32
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It does change the geometry, in general it shortens the wheelbase, and steepens the rake.
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Dec 8, 2017 13:21
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Im doing a sumo conversion on my WR250R. Haven’t bought wheels yet. Should I spring for the cush drive? My research says that because it’s a relatively low HP bike, that it’s not needed. Are the floating/bigger calipers that much better? I’m going to a bigger tear sprocket as well. Likely going with some warp9 rims unless I can find a wr250x set of wheels Do I need to do anything to the suspension? Guessing if I’m opting to do more street riding I’d want to stiffen it a bit. Goal is to have a bike I can swap from Supermoto to enduro and back easily. I’m a newb at both those styles of riding, but really love this WR and how quickly I’m learning on it and how much fun it is.
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Dec 8, 2017 18:06
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AuxiliaryPatroller posted:Im doing a sumo conversion on my WR250R. Haven’t bought wheels yet. Should I spring for the cush drive? My research says that because it’s a relatively low HP bike, that it’s not needed. If you’re going to keep it for a long time then I’d get the Cush hub. Otherwise, not. Fwiw, I think the risk is really when you’re talking about bikes like a ktm 500 where it’ll start getting hard on the trans if you don’t have one.
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Dec 8, 2017 18:16
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Rode my bike to work and it's snowing, for like the fourth time in my life. Tips? I can do 30 on back roads.
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Dec 8, 2017 19:36
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Jack B Nimble posted:Rode my bike to work and it's snowing, for like the fourth time in my life. Tips? I can do 30 on back roads. Same sort of stuff as driving in snow/ice - give yourself more room to slow down and stop, go easier on the brakes (especially the front), keep yourself as upright as possible in turns, when you stop do what you can to put your foot down on a dry spot if possible. Snow/slush isn't TOO horrible to ride in but ice patches can ruin your day
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Dec 8, 2017 20:02
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Jack B Nimble posted:Rode my bike to work and it's snowing, for like the fourth time in my life. Tips? I can do 30 on back roads. Go home now.
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Dec 8, 2017 22:19
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Go home now. My boss just insisted on that. My first time missing work in 4 years. They insisted. I'll let you all know if I die.
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Dec 8, 2017 22:21
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I rid in the snow before. It was not that different from riding in the rain.
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Dec 8, 2017 23:44
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Is it accumulating? -> no -> it's like rain | V Yes | V It's a little more dangerous than rain
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Dec 9, 2017 01:28
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I got my rear wheel stuck in an ice pocket in a gutter last winter, just revving and spinning while people watched and didn't help. That's my only noteworthy riding in the snow story.
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Dec 9, 2017 01:30
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Yeah, having done it now the rain comparison is apt. Worst thing about it is that it's wet and about thirty degrees out.
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Dec 9, 2017 02:16
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Having trail ridden in the ice and snow with regular off road tires and knowing the feeling that follows the complete lack of warning of loss of traction in both tires I don't feel comfortable riding a street bike in below freezing temps.
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Dec 9, 2017 02:28
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Having trail ridden in the ice and snow with regular off road tires and knowing the feeling that follows the complete lack of warning of loss of traction in both tires I don't feel comfortable riding a street bike in below freezing temps. Pretty much this for me. It's all good and fun until it isn't and theres usually zero warning. (Ive only ate poo poo on offroad during freezing weather, onroad is where I draw the line)
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Dec 9, 2017 03:06
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AuxiliaryPatroller posted:Im doing a sumo conversion on my WR250R. Haven’t bought wheels yet. Should I spring for the cush drive? My research says that because it’s a relatively low HP bike, that it’s not needed. If your sprocket sizes are different enough you might need a different chain. I had a DRZSM with both sets of wheels, it was a pain in the rear end to swap wheels.
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Dec 9, 2017 05:44
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I rode in the snow on purpose on my rv90, it was hilarious. I realize this does not help you.
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Dec 9, 2017 21:15
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What cheap trailers are out there similar to the Harbor Freight folding ones? I need something for one bike and under $1000 to tow with my Focus. I would just get the HF one, but I guess they aren't selling them right now.
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Dec 21, 2017 03:44
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Deeters posted:What cheap trailers are out there similar to the Harbor Freight folding ones? I need something for one bike and under $1000 to tow with my Focus. I would just get the HF one, but I guess they aren't selling them right now. Have you checked ADV for sale? They usually have folks selling trailers.
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Dec 21, 2017 14:24
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What do you guys like for getting dirt/crud/light surface rust off old parts? I picked up a box of cheap spares on Gumtree to sock away for when I finally find the CT/XL125 to fix up that I'm after. Mostly it is electrical stuff (plus one carbie) so there's not a bunch of oil and whatnot on them, but they were clearly pulled off a bike that was being ridden and then kept in someone's shed for a number of years. I've also got a mirror that's heavily pitted on the outside (reflective surface itself is fine), I am guessing I should just sand it down and rattlecan it flat black.
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Dec 22, 2017 02:28
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I used water and aluminum foil. Worked wonders with the rusty front fender of my GN 125. Although, keep in mind that when chrome pits, the pits will still be there when you rub away the rust. Little black marks/holes. Aluminum foil will also scratch chrome lightly... might want to take very fine grit sandpaper to it afterward. I think the story of aluminum foil chemically reacting with rust to create an oxide on the surface of chrome it rubs is bogus, because aluminum foil is covered in a thin layer of wax. But that's just my intuition.
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Dec 22, 2017 03:01
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I'm partial to scotchbrite pads (hand ones, like for your sink) + WD40. Works wonders on fork stanchions without scuffing them.
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Dec 22, 2017 05:30
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