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I wouldn't do it with metallic paints, but a lot of hobby acrylics are pretty harmless. Vallejo in particular tend to have surprisingly floral compositions. Symetrique posted:lol if you cant tell Mr Color paints apart by taste You're probably going to melt your tongue off, though
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# ? Dec 12, 2017 05:58 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 09:13 |
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Neurolimal posted:I wouldn't do it with metallic paints, but a lot of hobby acrylics are pretty harmless. Vallejo in particular tend to have surprisingly floral compositions. Just hope your bottle isn't older than about 2013 or so, since a bunch of them have cadmium pigments!
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# ? Dec 13, 2017 10:03 |
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Scharnhorst Issue 22 We finally get to take a break from roof related shenanigans and deal with the bow and stern of the ship instead. For these we receive 2 plastic mouldings each which are epoxy-glued together and onto the ends of the hull. This is where the decision to use MDF to form the hull starts to make sense, because fit is absolutely perfect. These parts will make the planking of the hull (should we eventually start it at some point) infinitely easier. I'm usually not a big fan of plastic, but for these sections it makes things so much easier that I'm ok with it. Other options how these sections are done in other ships of this type are ceramic prefabs (prone to break, usually major fit issues) or building up the sections with layered plates of wood then sanding that block smooth (torturous work that usually ends in less than satisfying results)
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# ? Dec 13, 2017 10:23 |
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Looks cool! I'm curious though, how do you plank a battleship? Does the planking give you a base to attach a smooth outer hull to?
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# ? Dec 13, 2017 23:21 |
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A little vignette I've been working on, downed US pilot in the Pacific. Its a resin vignette made by Verlinden that was given to my father waaaaay back in the day by mr. Verlinden himself. Going to give it to my father as a Christmas present. All painted with Vallejo acrylics. Only some detail painting left, then washes to make the details pop. Afterwards I'll use some Vallejo acrylic water products to make the water more realistic.
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# ? Dec 14, 2017 00:40 |
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Molentik posted:
Looks great!
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# ? Dec 14, 2017 12:05 |
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Molentik posted:
Great shading on that.
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# ? Dec 14, 2017 19:59 |
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Finally finished it. Not 100% happy (lots of sloppy detail painting etc) but calling it done it a big step for me. Otherwise I' ll just keep slapping paint on and that usually ruins the whole thing. This vignette was quite tricky to paint at times, it is cast as a single block of resin. All in all it was a nice piece to practise on I think! Now back to painting splinter camo in 1/35....
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# ? Dec 16, 2017 00:27 |
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Looks great to me. I love the effect of water on the floor of the boat.
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# ? Dec 16, 2017 01:11 |
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Molentik posted:Finally finished it. Not 100% happy (lots of sloppy detail painting etc) but calling it done it a big step for me. Otherwise I' ll just keep slapping paint on and that usually ruins the whole thing. Lil' dude looks blazed. Great job!
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# ? Dec 16, 2017 02:37 |
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I'm really torn, I've been on-and-off interested in model railways since I was a nipper, and now I'm moving into a new home that backs onto a railway line. I've done some research and realised I can model the old station that the line connects to in exact 1:76 scale and even buy the trains that would have run on it way back in 1899. I just don't know if I can justify the cost and space - 11 feet!
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# ? Dec 16, 2017 12:37 |
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So those Chris Foss inspired discussions a while back inspired me, too. Just some touch ups and gloss to go. I do wonder if I should silver out the engine intakes to break up the quote:Play by play:
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# ? Dec 16, 2017 18:15 |
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The A-10 for some reason makes me think of a 90's slap on bracelet but the Eldar poo poo looks great and very Chris Fossy, which oddly suits eldar design. I think the finer pattern and more high science fantasy design works better for it.
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# ? Dec 16, 2017 22:02 |
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Southern Heel posted:I'm really torn, I've been on-and-off interested in model railways since I was a nipper, and now I'm moving into a new home that backs onto a railway line. I've done some research and realised I can model the old station that the line connects to in exact 1:76 scale and even buy the trains that would have run on it way back in 1899. I just don't know if I can justify the cost and space - 11 feet! Selective compression is your friend.
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 04:41 |
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Boomer The Cannon posted:Selective compression is your friend. Also a more powerful and sexy scale, like 1:160
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 10:10 |
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It is well known that 1/6 is the sexiest scale. Not sure how that works for trains though....
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 11:35 |
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Molentik posted:It is well known that 1/6 is the sexiest scale. Not sure how that works for trains though.... Okay, sir, we're gonna have to ask you to take a seat over here and remain at least 100 meters away from schools at all times from now on .
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 11:55 |
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Buy a house with a reeeeally big garden and go full 15 inch track gauge. e: That is not in one person's garden. It runs through several towns and was built for fun privately initially and now runs public services and gala days. Funnily enough it does run between the back gardens of several residential areas. RH&DR Oscar Romeo Romeo fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Dec 17, 2017 |
# ? Dec 17, 2017 14:27 |
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Oscar Romeo Romeo posted:Buy a house with a reeeeally big garden and go full 15 inch track gauge. quote:In 1940 the railway was taken over by the military during World War II, and a miniature armoured train was used on the line
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 14:50 |
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There's a picture of it too Look at that adorable little war machine.
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 15:00 |
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Its still there, usually in a siding by New Romney station and sometimes they do little re-enactments with it.
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 15:38 |
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Neddy Seagoon posted:There's a picture of it too If it's the same one, it actually "shot down" an aircraft, which basically thought it was strafing a full-sized train and didn't pull up in time after a strafe. Edit: its actually credited with 3 downed aircraft. N17R4M fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Dec 17, 2017 |
# ? Dec 17, 2017 15:42 |
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And I was about to make a joke about the scale throwing off Luftwaffe aerial photography Gonna go find and ride that train next time I'm in England
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 15:48 |
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Well we got there eventually - the Nautilus is finished (if we resist the urge to continue tinkering which I am very much trying not to do at this point). It is exceedingly hard to photograph unfortunately, even in daylight, but this is what I was able to get. The darker shot done at night-time makes it look like the lights glow through the hull all over the place, which they do very faintly but nothing like they appear in the photo. Unfortunately it was something we discovered too late in the build to do anything about it otherwise we would have coated the inside of the sub pieces in black paint to try and mitigate it. That said, it is barely visible in the flesh unless you're looking for it. Overall pretty satisfied with how it all turned out, and again although we couldn't get it on camera, the cabin looks fantastic through the windows so glad we stuck with the originals!
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# ? Dec 17, 2017 23:48 |
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Kerro posted:Well we got there eventually - the Nautilus is finished (if we resist the urge to continue tinkering which I am very much trying not to do at this point). WONDERFUL!
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 00:01 |
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loving awesome! Amazing work on everything. Really like the light shafts through the water too.
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 00:10 |
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Kerro posted:Well we got there eventually - the Nautilus is finished (if we resist the urge to continue tinkering which I am very much trying not to do at this point). Superb. The dio itself is great, but the presentation really seals it.
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 00:41 |
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DiHK posted:So those Chris Foss inspired discussions a while back inspired me, too. Oh hell yes. This works so well for Eldar. I've been working on a tiny little Russian.
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 02:13 |
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Looks awesome! Is that 1:72nd scale?
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 02:24 |
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Yup trumpeter T54B in 1:72. Also have the T55 with plough next. Edit. I've been trying to learn and emulate one of my favourite 1:72 modellers 'Buba Wagon Zawod'. Who does work like this. Either him or Iao Kit. Crazy stuff. Tentacle Party fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Dec 18, 2017 |
# ? Dec 18, 2017 03:35 |
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I feel like my hands would be so big for those 1/72. They're so cute though.
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 07:36 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Dragon stuff is overpriced because for a short while they were top of the heap. Late 90's or so, people were getting sick of the same 30 year old Tamiya kits being rereleased annually with a new part or two. Dragon burst on the scene with a lot of fresh new kits, and much better detail than the older Tamiya stuff. Dragon kit quality is all over the place but a general rule I’ve found is that the initial release of a particular subject is usually good but then they release several half-assed variations with insane steps like: cut off a return roller, reattach it 15mm away, and then fill the giant hole.
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 20:39 |
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In a fit of I've never done a ship model before, but am on a major Pacific kick and would like to give this one a go. I'm familiar with PE, I'm familiar with big models, but have only ever done aircraft and armor. Anyone have any good guides to building model ships like this? Googling mostly gets me guides on how to build age-of-sail stuff, which is a different beast altogether.
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# ? Dec 18, 2017 20:39 |
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Baronjutter posted:Also a more powerful and sexy scale, like 1:160 Or just go to a bigger building like our club. 150' x 50' should do the trick, but I still ask them about double-decking the layout from time to time. E: For shits and grins, minimum radius on the mainline is 42", with one or two curves coming in around 96".
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# ? Dec 19, 2017 02:20 |
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Frenz posted:Dragon kit quality is all over the place but a general rule I’ve found is that the initial release of a particular subject is usually good but then they release several half-assed variations with insane steps like: cut off a return roller, reattach it 15mm away, and then fill the giant hole. Somewhat reminded of the AFV Club instructions for my Stryker MGS I bought a few years back at how utterly confusing its layout was. The fact that then it then also referenced paints that didn't seemingly exist either wasn't that much of a help either.
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# ? Dec 19, 2017 15:04 |
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Frenz posted:Dragon kit quality is all over the place but a general rule I’ve found is that the initial release of a particular subject is usually good but then they release several half-assed variations with insane steps like: cut off a return roller, reattach it 15mm away, and then fill the giant hole. Haha, yeah, what kind of company would release a kit requiring the builder chop off and reorient parts that could have just been modular from the start... (Not defending Dragon, just found it funny)
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# ? Dec 19, 2017 15:59 |
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Baronjutter posted:the Eldar poo poo looks great and very Chris Fossy, which oddly suits eldar design. Tentacle Party posted:Oh hell yes. This works so well for Eldar. At the onset I thought about T'au, Necrons, Dark Eldar and 'nids but for the obvious design reasons I had to settle on Eldar. I'm both excited and dreading doing the geometric pattern Foss stuff on the Shining Spears. But blues and metals.
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# ? Dec 19, 2017 16:45 |
I'm back to having time to put models together finally. Has anyone done the 1:48 Tamiya F-14A? I wasn't sure if it was worth grabbing the color photo etch from Eduard for the cockpit or the Brassin cockpit kit from them.
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# ? Dec 19, 2017 17:38 |
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Huggable Bear King posted:Looks cool! I'm curious though, how do you plank a battleship? Does the planking give you a base to attach a smooth outer hull to? Kits of this type are usually planked just a like a sailing vessel would be, that is one layer of wooden planking to establish a base, another layer with a thin veneer to get a smooth surface. The difference is that that surface is then smothered with filler, sanded, sanded, sanded, sanded, primed and painted. The end result should hopefully be a mostly smooth layer that does not look like wood anymore. Of course in real life these steel surfaces are anything but babysmooth, they just look like it from afar. There's usually major bumps and dings all over the place on the actual ship. Scharnhorst issue 23 Back to roofs. This time we receive the first two upper deck plates. Those are just loosely laid down on the hull for now. The designers surprise me again, but this time in a positive way. There are cutouts in the plates to simply stick the deck structures into. Proper Fit and sit of the deck structures is usually a huge pain in the behind so this solution is nothing short of genius.
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# ? Dec 20, 2017 13:49 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 09:13 |
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I built a Tristar Panzer IV ausf D
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# ? Dec 21, 2017 18:55 |