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They make low profile ramps, but race ramps for example are pretty pricey. https://raceramps.com/car-ramps/garage-and-service-ramps/56-race-ramps/ And yeah a 2x4 in front of the ramp might do it. or make your own little ramps out of wood, like 2x8s stacked on top of each other. I expect they don't need to be very high for an oil change. I can still change my oil with all the wheels on the ground, but my drain pan just barely fits and the plug and filter and in the front and easy to reach.
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Dec 28, 2017 06:23
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Thanks everyone! I think I'll give one of those 3 jaw ones a go. The clearance on the side of the filter is an issue for one of my cars so it might be difficult with the others.OSU_Matthew posted:For your changes, you shouldn't need anything more than a leather work glove to grab and loosen the old one, they shouldn't be cranked on there any more than handtight. A leather work glove should give you just enough extra grip to loosen it. Also rub a little clean oil on the threads and rubber seal of the new filter to prevent the contact surface from siezing up. I only ever do them up til the rubber contacts plus about a 1/4 turn more and always add the oil to the seal. They just manage to get tighter over the time they're on there.
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Dec 28, 2017 07:01
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An oil change pit is also good for storing goats in.
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Dec 28, 2017 15:38
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I can't get my wife's Jetta up onto ramps to change the oil due to low clearance (and fairly steep ramps). Is there a relatively cheap and compact jack I can use to put it up on jack stands? Looks like a bottle jack would be too tall.  Boom, problem solved. If you're lucky, you might even find a curb like this one, with built in low profile ramps for cars and an all-in-one disposal drain!
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Dec 28, 2017 15:46
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Just don't drop the drain plug
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Dec 28, 2017 15:47
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The hand tight thing has always been what I go by, but the filters for my air cooled 911 actually have a torque value on them of something like 20Nm. Do I do that? gently caress no. Hand tight. Works fine.
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Dec 28, 2017 16:44
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OSU_Matthew posted:
If you live in a coastal area make sure you find a drain with little fishes and waves stenciled near it - that means they'll eat your used oil and convert it into clean water, or something.
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Dec 28, 2017 18:28
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Forums user eddiewalker printed those m18 clips for me and got them out really fast. What a swell guy. You've got a friend in me.
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Dec 28, 2017 20:21
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:If you live in a coastal area make sure you find a drain with little fishes and waves stenciled near it - that means they'll eat your used oil and convert it into clean water, or something. All water drains to the sea unless you live in the salt lake or somewhere similar where only death lives. All oil changes should start with a spare drain plug.
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Dec 29, 2017 00:56
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Elephanthead posted:All oil changes should start with a spare drain plug. And 100 lbs of kitty litter.
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Dec 29, 2017 00:58
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C-Bangin' it 
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Is the CDI torque wrench the way to go as far as made in the USA ones go, or is the a more budget friendly option? It looks like the 30-250 lbs-ft model on Amazon is listed at $195 and there's a 20% off coupon for it when I checked earlier today.
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Dec 29, 2017 01:01
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I like Precision Instruments stuff a little better, but they are comparable to CDI in price and quality.
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Dec 29, 2017 01:16
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Dave Inc. posted:like 20Nm. Do I do that? gently caress no. Hand tight. Works fine. 20 Nm is about hand tight.  MetaJew posted:Is the CDI torque wrench the way to go as far as made in the USA ones go, or is the a more budget friendly option? Depends what you're using it for. Home garage stuff the cheap harbor freight ones are fine and fairly accurate. Guys at work said the snap on guy tested one and it was as accurate as a snap on wrench. Aerospace mechanic, then probably spend the money on something better. 
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Dec 29, 2017 02:52
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My FIL left his adorable ranger at our place and it needs a front brake job. My cheapo floor jack doesn’t go high enough, so I’d like to get a new one that’ll do the job. Is the harbor freight option a decent choice? Or is there something else I should look into?
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Jan 3, 2018 21:40
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Throw a block of wood on top of the jack  Use jackstands before you take wheels off, though.
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Jan 3, 2018 21:44
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Powershift posted:Throw a block of wood on top of the jack I could (the wood, I always use jack stands...), but I was also going to use this as an opportunity to get a better floor jack than my lovely 15yo craftsman pos. We have only had small cars so the old one was fine, but having the small truck and looking into sprinter vans makes me want something better.
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Jan 3, 2018 21:49
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Oh, well in that case, pay close attention to the weight rating. Sometimes "3 ton" means it can be used to lift up one end of a 3 ton vehicle with perfect 50/50 weight distribution and won't actually get the front end of a sprinter off the ground.
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Jan 3, 2018 21:54
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El Jebus posted:I could (the wood, I always use jack stands...), but I was also going to use this as an opportunity to get a better floor jack than my lovely 15yo craftsman pos. We have only had small cars so the old one was fine, but having the small truck and looking into sprinter vans makes me want something better. Not sure on your budget, but when looking into the future of lifting vans or something like that take a look at https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-daytona-professional-steel-floor-jack-super-duty-63183.html Coupons float around for 179 or so.
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Jan 3, 2018 21:56
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For most trucks you can just lift the front and/or rear differential and axle off the ground (assuming 4wd with a big beefy front diff) and then throw some jack stands under the axle. That's how I lift my Jeep and it works fine with any old floor jack, even the old and super sketchy aluminum Harbor Freight special that barely lifts more than a foot off the ground. For a brake job it really doesn't matter if the front suspension is loaded or unloaded lifting via axle or not.
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Jan 3, 2018 21:57
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Don't know where you live, but sometimes you can score a nice trolley jack at Costco.
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Jan 3, 2018 22:10
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mod sassinator posted:For most trucks you can just lift the front and/or rear differential and axle off the ground (assuming 4wd with a big beefy front diff) and then throw some jack stands under the axle. That's how I lift my Jeep and it works fine with any old floor jack, even the old and super sketchy aluminum Harbor Freight special that barely lifts more than a foot off the ground. For a brake job it really doesn't matter if the front suspension is loaded or unloaded lifting via axle or not. I'm sure in a pinch you could do this, and I've done it once or twice myself, but Ford specifically recommends against doing this.
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Jan 3, 2018 22:49
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I'll have to check and see if my costcos have that jack anymore or if they have moved on to other items. Might end up with that HF 3 ton if I find a coupon, looks like it is the same price as the costco model without it.
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Jan 3, 2018 22:51
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Ah, might depend on the diff then--for Jeeps it's what all the service manuals I've seen recommend (even with the junky Dana 30 front diff). Sometimes I lift a side just by the bottom of the lower control arm to axle connection too. That's probably not a great spot though as you have to be careful not to bend the bracket that holds the bushing.
mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jan 3, 2018 |
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Jan 3, 2018 23:23
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El Jebus posted:I'll have to check and see if my costcos have that jack anymore or if they have moved on to other items. Might end up with that HF 3 ton if I find a coupon, looks like it is the same price as the costco model without it. Locally I’ve seen a hybrid jack for sale lately, and there always seems to be one anyway. When I bought it was all steel, then they switched to aluminum. Now it’s a hybrid. I’m happy enough with the one I have that I didn’t give it much of a look. I trust the Costco jack more than anything from harbor freight, even though technically I am never in a life threatening position I’d rather not drop my car either. Edit: although I did use a harbor freight engine jack and stand which could have caused more damage... they were so much cheaper with less times to be used. Also I’m not perfect, and subject to a budget. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 4, 2018 |
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Jan 4, 2018 02:25
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I've been hugely satisfied with my harbor freight 3 ton jack. It's not the low profile (which sometimes I wish I had) or aluminum, but it's been pretty solid whenever I've needed to use it. My only compliant is that its real goddamned heavy. I can only just barely carry it around with one hand, and it takes two to heave it up into a trunk or back of a pickup. Tool deal chat: I've been waiting for this toolchest to come out, and now I find out it's $200 off for the holidays. Well, the holidays are past but apparently the deal is live for a little bit longer. I'm probably picking one up tonight (getting it delivered, one part is 350 lbs, the other is 240). It's the "nicer" version of Milwaukee's 46" tool chest, which came out about two months ago. Any reviews I've seen really liked it, and at this price it's in the same range as the same size from Harbor Freight. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-46-in-18-Drawer-Tool-Chest-and-Cabinet-Combo-48-22-8546/301937094 Edit: Odd issue: The price might depend on your store. One store I was going to buy it from has it advertised for $798, but won't deliver it. Other stores have it for $898, and either don't have it in stock, or also won't deliver. Nothing within 100 miles has it in stock. This could be a fun process. Edit2: Stopped in the store, and the sale should be good until 2/26. They WILL deliver, estimated charge for me was $79 but I live within ten miles of the store. boxen fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jan 4, 2018 |
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Jan 4, 2018 21:41
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I loved (and still have) my Costco Arcan hybrid jack, but I picked up a Daytona because the extra lift height is much nicer when working on the Jeep. The Costco jack handled the Ranger just fine though.
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Jan 5, 2018 05:56
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boxen posted:I've been hugely satisfied with my harbor freight 3 ton jack. It's not the low profile (which sometimes I wish I had) or aluminum, but it's been pretty solid whenever I've needed to use it. My only compliant is that its real goddamned heavy. I can only just barely carry it around with one hand, and it takes two to heave it up into a trunk or back of a pickup. for that price maybe you should rent their truck for an hour? its like 20 or 25/hr
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Jan 5, 2018 05:58
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BraveUlysses posted:for that price maybe you should rent their truck for an hour? its like 20 or 25/hr Thought about it, but I don't know if I have sufficient friends to help get it into and out of such a truck.
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Jan 5, 2018 06:04
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boxen posted:Thought about it, but I don't know if I have sufficient friends to help get it into and out of such a truck. If you are able to justify that kinda cash on a toolchest, then you should have the appropriate skills to fit a small two-stroke engine to it and ride it home.
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Jan 5, 2018 10:28
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mod sassinator posted:For most trucks you can just lift the front and/or rear differential and axle off the ground (assuming 4wd with a big beefy front diff) and then throw some jack stands under the axle. That's how I lift my Jeep and it works fine with any old floor jack, even the old and super sketchy aluminum Harbor Freight special that barely lifts more than a foot off the ground. For a brake job it really doesn't matter if the front suspension is loaded or unloaded lifting via axle or not. QuarkMartial posted:I'm sure in a pinch you could do this, and I've done it once or twice myself, but Ford specifically recommends against doing this. Yeah, last time I tried this on the rear axle, the truck decided to shift a little, and twisted to one side off the jack. I guess the steering had just enough play in it, or wasn't locked. Fortunately there was plenty of room, and nothing got hit/hurt. Since then, I lift things up one corner at a time, always leaving the other three planted on the wheel, or on a jackstand.
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Jan 5, 2018 23:04
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Oh yeah I would never suspend and hold by just the diff--always get some stands under the axle somewhere as soon as the wheels get off the ground.
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Jan 5, 2018 23:26
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Yeah, last time I tried this on the rear axle, the truck decided to shift a little, and twisted to one side off the jack. I guess the steering had just enough play in it, or wasn't locked. I've lifted the rear of my C10 by the pumpkin pretty much every time I jack it up and have never had that problem, and it doesn't have a steering lock. I could maybe see it if the steering was already cranked to one side?
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Jan 6, 2018 00:52
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Any recommendations for a set of metal files?
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Jan 6, 2018 01:13
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Anyone have any suggestions for CV joint banding tools? I've got some booting to do on my Sbubaru.
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Jan 6, 2018 06:38
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I've got these lisle clamp pliers and they're pretty nice for doing the clamps. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SREPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_UkguAbKQE9492 Makes the process pretty easy, at least I don't remember ever swearing at them.
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Jan 6, 2018 06:49
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El Jebus posted:My FIL left his adorable ranger at our place and it needs a front brake job. My cheapo floor jack doesn’t go high enough, so I’d like to get a new one that’ll do the job. Is the harbor freight option a decent choice? Or is there something else I should look into? Just curious, but what does it come with for changing tires on the side of the road? My dad's Dodge 2500 had a bottle jack with a u shaped top to rest under the axle.
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Jan 6, 2018 16:32
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Wrar posted:Any recommendations for a set of metal files? Stick with a good brand name. Lots of guys have boners for Nicholson.
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Jan 6, 2018 17:53
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Wrar posted:Any recommendations for a set of metal files?
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Jan 6, 2018 19:09
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Wrar posted:Any recommendations for a set of metal files? Can’t make a recommendation specifically, but I can say to look for something made in India or Portugal instead of China, even if the Chinese is a name brand. I’m pretty sure Nicholson is all made in Portugal now. Pferd, Warrensville, Bahco and Nicholson all have name recognition, but something from Mercer or Tomé Feteira are would have as good an offering at a lower cost.
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Jan 7, 2018 00:00
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Wrar posted:Any recommendations for a set of metal files? I really like my corradi engineers files, got them in a set of 5 a few years ago. Made in Italy afaik. Looks like you can get them from http://www.corradishop.com/ in the states. They have a set of 11 files that looks a little better than what I bought http://www.corradishop.com/index.php?currency=USD&main_page=product_info&products_id=77
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Jan 7, 2018 00:27
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