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I have a Cobb knob but I don't remember it costing $70... what the gently caress, the price almost doubled compared to when I bought it.
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Dec 27, 2017 18:34
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MC Hawking posted:Like...a toilet plunger? Yes, literally the plunger from my toilet.
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Dec 27, 2017 19:00
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azazello posted:Yes, literally the plunger from my toilet. Get a PDR shop to work on it. They are way cheaper than you think, and will produce magical results.
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Dec 28, 2017 05:30
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My 2011 Mazda3 seems to have trouble starting when the engine has been run for short periods of time and not warmed up enough. Like today I had to run over to the hospital lab from the office real quick and I didn't want to bother with taking a company car so jumped in the Mazda. Got in, drove over, and was inside for about 10 minutes. When I came out the car had to crank for 4-5 seconds before it started. It was 25 or so American degrees out. Anyone else have this experience and is this something I should worry about? No CELs or anything.
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Dec 28, 2017 06:50
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I got the PMM replaced with very little difficulty. The hardest part was probably depressing the tabs that the coolant and power steering reservoirs mount to. So, it was just as easy as everyone says, I guess. It may be the placebo effect but it does seem like shifts and hard acceleration feel better, and more planted? Unfortunately, this didn't fix the clunk that I hear, so I think there's something loose or failing in the rear suspension, possibly the rear driver side. Related: what are the symptoms of the transmission mount failing? Just spitballing if the busted PMM could've caused excessive wear on the transmission mount.       
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Dec 28, 2017 07:15
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Previa_fun posted:My 2011 Mazda3 seems to have trouble starting when the engine has been run for short periods of time and not warmed up enough. Personally I wouldn't worry unless it doesn't start. The only things that I can think of that would cause that would be a drop in fuel pressure in the lines (building it back up while cranking) or a weak battery. But does it do it on a true cold start? If not, it's probably neither of those and maybe they just didn't do a great job on the "slightly warm but still in open loop" start up calibrations...? MetaJew posted:Unfortunately, this didn't fix the clunk that I hear, so I think there's something loose or failing in the rear suspension, possibly the rear driver side. Not sure what year your car is but I remember the gen 1 MS3's had issues with the rear sway bar links loosening. I would just jack up the rear and have a look and torque the shocks/struts/links/everything-else-you-can-get-a-wrench-on to make sure they're snug. One failed mounts will put more load on the rest, so it's possible it could have accelerated wear on the others. Have somebody rev your car in neutral (not Drive, don't get your rear end ran over) while you look in the engine bay and see how much the engine moves. Failing that, I would just grab the engine and give it a shake and see if the movement is excessive. Usually you'll be able to feel the powertrain rocking until it hits a hard stop (bottom out the mount or bushing) or you'll be able to see a crazy amount of vibration when it's revved up and torques the engine.
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Dec 28, 2017 19:53
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Larrymer posted:Not sure what year your car is but I remember the gen 1 MS3's had issues with the rear sway bar links loosening. I would just jack up the rear and have a look and torque the shocks/struts/links/everything-else-you-can-get-a-wrench-on to make sure they're snug. Yeah, I have a MY2009 gen 1. I looked up a few videos/threads about the end links, and based on the sounds from these videos, I think you're absolutely right that it's the rear end links. Since I've got about 78k miles it doesn't seem like a bad idea to go ahead and just replace them. The moog end links look pretty sturdy but a lot of reviewers are saying they are a PITA to install vs the OEM style. Maybe I'll make another trip to the dealer tomorrow. air- posted:e: IIRC you are in Austin too, you are welcome to take my car out for a spin if you want to try before you buy. RE: Austin I want to go do this sometime before it ends. I worry with school out there could be some enormous lines or waits, but I love me some outdoor karting. http://www.circuitoftheamericas.com/karting Also in Austin: There's a guy that lives a few blocks from my house, in south Austin, with a white gen 1 MS3 and at least a downpipe/exhaust. He's not one of you goons, is he?
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Dec 29, 2017 10:06
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My 2014 ‘3 just hit 60k miles and the tires are a little cupped. I’m looking at knocking out all the maintenance I can in one swoop. Tires and shocks/struts all around and alignment for sure. I was thinking MT gear lube should probably be changed along with the brake fluid. What about engine coolant? Should I stick with the 100k interval on that? The glovebox manual lists an interval for fuel filter, but the local parts chain only shows universal fit filters. Is that actually something I can get to or is it integrated in the tank with the fuel pump? Anything else I should add to the list. Most DIY minus the tires age alignment.
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Dec 29, 2017 18:35
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eddiewalker posted:My 2014 ‘3 just hit 60k miles and the tires are a little cupped. I’m looking at knocking out all the maintenance I can in one swoop. Tires and shocks/struts all around and alignment for sure. Coolant is probably fine since it likely has a long life coolant factory fill. I'd check the gearbox oil and see what the manual says, but it won't hurt to do. Don't do a universal fuel filter. Which engine do you have? The 2.0 has a filter that comes up on Rock Auto (shop for parts prices there vs. locally, it's usually WAY cheaper). I don't see one for the 2.5 but surely you can order it through Mazda if you can't get it elsewhere. Before buying a bunch of stuff I would do a general inspection of the suspension and replace as necessary. Check for sway bar links and ball joints for play and bushing wear. 60k miles doesn't sound like you'll find much but who knows since we don't know about your driving conditions.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:08
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I'm 99% certain my MS3 had only a sock in the tank and there was no plan to make it serviceable at all. I'd be surprised if they backed off of that on newer cars.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:18
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Larrymer posted:Coolant is probably fine since it likely has a long life coolant factory fill. I'd check the gearbox oil and see what the manual says, but it won't hurt to do. Don't do a universal fuel filter. Which engine do you have? The 2.0 has a filter that comes up on Rock Auto (shop for parts prices there vs. locally, it's usually WAY cheaper). I don't see one for the 2.5 but surely you can order it through Mazda if you can't get it elsewhere. It's the 2.0. I basically just make the same 6 hour Kansas turnpike drive over and over. Relatively smooth and very little stopping or turning, so I suspect brakes, bushings and such are all fine, but Ill have a looksie.
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Dec 29, 2017 20:02
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Get off my lawn MetaJew  Is your speed 3 black? There's a really nice one by my work, in addition to a white 1st Gen with downpipe that you described. Black painted aftermarket wheels with a mild coilover lowering? Edit: I snooped your post history for pics, and I'm pretty sure I've seen you buzzing around in traffic. Those wheels are pretty distinctive. 
MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Dec 30, 2017 |
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Dec 29, 2017 20:27
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So my flip key hosed off this morning and wouldn’t open, had to use a small screwdriver and pliers to get the key out so I could get to work, got it apart now, lost the small piece you can see. Does the top portion here with the logo on it come off? There’s a seam but now I’m leery as hell of breaking it (even though it’s pretty hosed up now). I don’t know if the repair shop hosed it up while they had it or what, but I am pretty pissed right now.  If I can get that top piece off I want to re-seat everything and clean it, then I’ll have to re-glue the piece that came out. Otherwise the key is wobbly as poo poo and I can’t trust it to flip anymore. I work away from home so I don’t have my spare or a ton of tools, but I can probably find something that will work.
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Jan 5, 2018 15:30
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Update, if anyone cares: looks like the key took a hell of a hit at least once that pushed it well past its normal range of motion. I think that piece around the key is actually metal but I could be wrong. Took a while but got it all apart and cleaner. Super glue everywhere I could, back together, flips now, not entirely reliably but it’s in one piece and usable. Good thing there were some old forums posts out there for people needing to mess with the spring or I would have been clueless about the screw hidden under the Mazda logo.
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Jan 6, 2018 00:58
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I took my car in to a local indie Mazda specialist as I've been a little apprehensive overall with the car. It's the first one of these I've owned and I'm not sure what it's supposed to sound like, and I've been scared of the VVT/timing chain issue lunching my motor with how clacky the thing is. I had hoped to get a real expert opinion on it but I think not only was I expecting too much, but everyone at the shop was sick and they were running behind so I don't know if I got everything I needed. They said they thought the engine sounded normal and that it was in overall pretty good shape, which is good. They did hear a tiny bit of chain rattle on cold startup but their advice was to not worry about it yet. (They said to not worry about it until it throws a code, though, which I don't know if I like.) The air conditioning compressor is locked up (although the clutch is good and the pulley spins normally when the AC is off) so that might explain some noise. I went in there with the expectation of doing the VVT fix so I guess I'm "ahead" in that regard, but they found a couple of other things wrong and didn't look deeper into the things I said I knew were wrong but I didn't have a cause on. They also found it needs power steering lines in addition to tires, windshield, and other various things I already knew it needed. They also couldn't / didn't track down the source of the rear suspension clunking. They said I needed to replace the passenger outer axle, replaced it, and then said they hosed up and the issue was actually in the intermediate axle. The outer axle definitely had some slop in it and wasn't *great* but definitely didn't need to be done yet and they didn't charge me for it. The worry they had with the intermediate was some play transversely, you can grab the axle and slide it side-to-side along the axis of the axle. Sorta like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFfibeDEeI8 How much play is okay, here? Any? So, poo poo, I don't know. I got it cheap and I'm pretty sure I could just cut bait and sell it for what I paid for it and get a regular 1st gen 3 hatch (although that's harder than you'd think.) I did just get my sweet old-school CA black & yellow license plate, though.
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Jan 6, 2018 08:46
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I bought the JBR rear sway bar, Moog end links, and JBR mudflaps for scene cred. This should be a fun few hours.
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Jan 13, 2018 21:57
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I was extremely disappointed when I couldn't find mud flaps with naked ladies in silhouette.
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Jan 14, 2018 00:22
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Stencil and plastidip are your friend. Also, I wish I had gotten the OEM endlinks. These moogs are a PITA and I need to go to HF tomorrow and buy a different set of crow's foot wrenches yo finish the job.
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Jan 14, 2018 03:23
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I've heard mixed things about aftermarket end links. Some folks swear by the OEM links. *shrug* I'm gonna toss on a JBR rear sway bar in a few weeks and see how long the OEM end links last. I also might do the front sway bar...wish me luck.
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Jan 14, 2018 17:00
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even on an otherwise stock suspension a stiff rear bar made a world of difference on my MS3. Steering in particular felt so much more responsive.
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Jan 15, 2018 02:05
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It sure would be awesome if Mazda would actually have the goddamned replacement airbag for this goddamned car.
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Jan 15, 2018 05:44
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I'm guessing it's the same airbag as the 3/6 (whatever you drive)? That's a pretty large swath of vehicles to be like "Airbags? Yeah nope"
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Jan 15, 2018 05:50
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hattersmad posted:I'm guessing it's the same airbag as the 3/6 (whatever you drive)? That's a pretty large swath of vehicles to be like "Airbags? Yeah nope" It's a 6 and I've now made five or six appointments after being told the bag is available only to be told they are gone. I was just checking my mail from yesterday and there was yet another recall notice.
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Jan 15, 2018 06:43
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hattersmad posted:I'm guessing it's the same airbag as the 3/6 (whatever you drive)? That's a pretty large swath of vehicles to be like "Airbags? Yeah nope" Weirdly the 3 isn’t on any of the recall lists.
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Jan 15, 2018 07:12
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hattersmad posted:I've heard mixed things about aftermarket end links. Some folks swear by the OEM links. *shrug* Yeah, in retrospect I should've just bought replacement OEM endlinks. The moogs were a PITA.
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Jan 15, 2018 07:28
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Rhyno posted:It's a 6 and I've now made five or six appointments after being told the bag is available only to be told they are gone. I was just checking my mail from yesterday and there was yet another recall notice. We got the notice for my wife's '05 in late 2015, the soonest any dealers near me could get us in was this past summer (car has since been totalled out in a rear end collision.) The scale of how many vehicles Takata supplied airbags for is staggering. Also working against you is southern states have replacement priority. I don't know the exact process that takes place but something to do with heat and humidity increases the chances that the airbag turns into a bomb.
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Jan 15, 2018 08:23
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I have a cousin who works for Takata's competitor, who is also a chemical engineer. The way he described it to me was that takata cheaped out on the style of explosive or whatever you call it. Humidity and moisture caused it to expand and contract and cracks would develop in the compound. More cracks = more surface area => more rapid burning which basically becomes and explosion instead of burning at a controlled rate... Or something like that.
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 09:28
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I was pleasantly surprised that the old snow tires and steels from my ‘07 6 still fit on my current-gen 3. The 6 didn’t have TPMS and the wheels don’t have sensors so I figured I’d have a dash warning light, but I don’t. What gives? The 3 has a TPMS reset button but I’ve never seen a warning in 70,000 miles.
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Jan 15, 2018 14:46
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MetaJew posted:I have a cousin who works for Takata's competitor, who is also a chemical engineer. The way he described it to me was that takata cheaped out on the style of explosive or whatever you call it. Humidity and moisture caused it to expand and contract and cracks would develop in the compound. More cracks = more surface area => more rapid burning which basically becomes and explosion instead of burning at a controlled rate... Or something like that. And the worst part is they knew that this was a potential outcome and went ahead with it anyways. It was to the point where other airbag manufacturers had considered the explosive formula Takata used (which is essentially lab-made ANFO) but decided against it because the risk of this exact scenario was too high. Geoj fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 17:02
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Geoj posted:We got the notice for my wife's '05 in late 2015, the soonest any dealers near me could get us in was this past summer (car has since been totalled out in a rear end collision.) I wouldn't be irritated but they have confirmed they have the bag each time only to call me the morning of to cancel the appointment. And now they suggest I just stop driving the car.
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Jan 15, 2018 17:04
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dissss posted:Weirdly the 3 isn’t on any of the recall lists. Does the 3 use an Autoliv bag and not Takata? I was also puzzled when I saw that several other Mazdas were now on the recall list, but not the 3.
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Jan 15, 2018 19:25
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eddiewalker posted:I was pleasantly surprised that the old snow tires and steels from my ‘07 6 still fit on my current-gen 3. Mazda apparently uses the ABS sensors for TPMS rather than in-tire transmitters. Enough to satisfy regulatory requirements, but not accurate enough to show a few PSI low. I guess at least I won't get hit with sensor fees when I get tires.
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Jan 15, 2018 20:36
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ABS based TPMS is superior if you actually bother to check your tire pressures regularly.
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Jan 15, 2018 22:22
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:ABS based TPMS is superior if you actually bother to check your tire pressures regularly. I feel dumb admitting this, but the dealership game me a free nitrogen fill and swore it would hold pressure forever. I’d never had a car with TPMS of any kind before and just figured I’d get an idiot light. Just kept thinking “drat maybe nitrogen isn’t snake oil.” 3 years later I finally checked my tires. They were only 5psi low, so I guess I didn’t do too bad. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 01:04
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When I had my '14 3, the valve broke off on my set of used winter steelies. I brought it to a tire place and had to argue with them for like 20 minutes, they were saying they had to put a tpms in because that's what came off. They had to look it up online that the car had the ABS thing. Don't know if it was fairly new tech at the time but only one guy there had heard of it. Speaking of which, my '17 CX5 doesn't have the pressure reset button thing, does that mean it has a traditional sensor?
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Jan 16, 2018 04:44
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My 2004 RAV4 has ABS-ring TPMS so it's been around for quite some time. Works great, too.
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Jan 16, 2018 05:06
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I got a screw in my passenger rear tire right near the edge, so it's probably time to replace them. Any recommendations for tires for the MS3 in 235/45 R17? I'm currently running the Continental Extreme Contact DW. (Not to be confused with the Continental Extreme Contact DWS all-season tires.) Edit: Discount Tire, where I got my Continentals is now carrying the Michelin Pilot Super Sport for $169 each. I had paid for the warranty on my Continentals so maybe I can get a discount/reimbursement if I buy a new set of tires, and come away with something a little better than what I'm currently running. It is a little disappointing that I "only" have about 18,000 miles and two years on the current tires, though. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 08:18
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eddiewalker posted:I feel dumb admitting this, but the dealership game me a free nitrogen fill and swore it would hold pressure forever. I’d never had a car with TPMS of any kind before and just figured I’d get an idiot light. Just kept thinking “drat maybe nitrogen isn’t snake oil.” Part of my '17 3's warranty is going to the dealer once a month for a nitro fill for free. I wonder if a lot of people complained about the drop over the years. Or the dealership I got it from is abnormally full of idiots.
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Jan 16, 2018 08:35
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I hit a pretty bad pothole the other day. I didn't feel any difference in ride immediately. The following day I was driving and I could totally feel a difference. There's an obvious bump like feeling in the steering wheel that's relational to the rotation of the tires. At low speeds you can see how it pulls the steering wheel. At higher speeds it's shaking the car. I'm just trying to brace myself for what the service department is going to tell me tomorrow. Any idea what it may be and a rough cost? The tires don't seem to be leaking air, so I wouldn't immediately think the alloy wheel was badly bent or cracked or anything... '13 MS3 ~ 43k mi
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Jan 16, 2018 14:42
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MetaJew posted:
Discount is pretty good on their warranties. Also, I never got more than about 20-25k out of a set of tires on the MS3, which worked out to one set per year. That was a big part of what made that car hurt my wallet so badly. Aexo posted:I hit a pretty bad pothole the other day. I didn't feel any difference in ride immediately. The following day I was driving and I could totally feel a difference. There's an obvious bump like feeling in the steering wheel that's relational to the rotation of the tires. At low speeds you can see how it pulls the steering wheel. At higher speeds it's shaking the car. I'm just trying to brace myself for what the service department is going to tell me tomorrow. Any idea what it may be and a rough cost? Best case, you knocked off a wheel weight and it's out of balance. But if you can feel it that badly in the steering, it's probably not round anymore. Either a bent wheel or a failed tire (or both).
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Jan 16, 2018 15:19
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