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Ilor posted:Cross-posting from one of the painting threads: How'd you put the magnet on and still have the model flush with the base Played my first game of Bolt Action and folks its just Black Powder but in the future. This is a good thing. Phi230 fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 17, 2018 02:32
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Phi230 posted:How'd you put the magnet on and still have the model flush with the base
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Jan 17, 2018 02:57
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Those look great, and magnets are always cool. Nice solution to individual casualties.
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Jan 17, 2018 07:30
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Cessna posted:Those are beautiful. Seriously, you're killing me here. With the new Victrix Republican cavalry coming out soon in plastic, there won't be any reason to buy metal Republican Romans ever again  
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Jan 17, 2018 08:39
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Phi230 posted:Bolt Action [...] in the future Boy do I have some bad news for you about a war that happened about 75 years ago.
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Jan 17, 2018 14:05
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MeinPanzer posted:With the new Victrix Republican cavalry coming out soon in plastic, there won't be any reason to buy metal Republican Romans ever again Those are beautiful. But I'm really bad with plastic. I've tried making 28mm plastic Napoleonics, and they were so fiddly. It seemed like I broke Every. Single. Bayonet.
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Jan 17, 2018 16:26
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Acebuckeye13 posted:Basically, the problem is twofold: In TY, if a unit in a platoon wants to stay 'in command' of their unit leader, they have to be within 6" of that tank. If they leave that bubble, if they move, they have to try and move back into command-so right away, the rules encourage clumping your unit together. To make matters worse, the physical size of the models is noticeably larger than the previous WW2 vehicles in base Flames, which means that larger units, by necessity, turn into a giant parking lot.
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Jan 17, 2018 17:31
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Arquinsiel posted:Having been reading the rules properly now that I have a hardcopy, this isn't actually true. Tanks can be much further apart if they are advancing "line abrest" formation. It appears to be at least in part user failure. You never want to use line abreast because only the tanks within 6" count for morale. If you kill all those around the leader (and remember you allocate your own hits and soviets have paper for armour), then the middle tank is "on his own", because the abreast tanks are only in coherency, not in command, and he tests to run away (with the rest of them).
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Jan 17, 2018 18:46
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Just fukken play Cold War Commander, weird as it is with the whole damage thing.
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Jan 17, 2018 18:49
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Also wait for NORTHAG
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Jan 17, 2018 18:50
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This is more milhist than milgame, but you all might appreciate it. I was interested in dueling in the British Army and found this article about "law and honour" in the 18th century army. It includes a review of a couple of court cases where officers were court martialed for conduct unbecoming an officer when they didn't fight a duel. Including in one case where an officer failed to challenge his commanding officer after the CO called him a "shitten dirty fellow." http://reenactor.ru/ARH/PDF/Gilbert_00.pdf
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Jan 17, 2018 19:49
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With the news that Saga 2nd Edition is coming in a few weeks, I decided this would be a good time to jump in. Any thoughts on which warbands would be good starters against each other? I assume vikings of some kind versus brits? It's got to be plastic, which shouldn't be a problem as Gripping Beast seem to have a good selection. I'm just looking for two good warbands for messing around with the game and demoing it to friends.
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Jan 17, 2018 22:33
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 What are these half-circle bases that are used for command staff and standard bearers? Is it legal for Black Powder??
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Jan 17, 2018 23:34
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spectralent posted:You never want to use line abreast because only the tanks within 6" count for morale. If you kill all those around the leader (and remember you allocate your own hits and soviets have paper for armour), then the middle tank is "on his own", because the abreast tanks are only in coherency, not in command, and he tests to run away (with the rest of them).  But yeah, it seems like it's totally doable to not have a carpark, you just need to put in way more effort.
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Jan 17, 2018 23:40
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Arquinsiel posted:Ah! But then you use the damage shuffling rules to allocate those hits away from the tank you want to keep alive and Yeah, it's just way more effort for an entirely aesthetic outcome that only hurts your chances of winning unless your table is weirdly laid out or something. Also you can only jump hits within 6" of the target, too  Somewhat tellingly they just removed the rule in V4. Nobody ever uses it.
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Jan 18, 2018 00:34
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spectralent posted:Yeah, it's just way more effort for an entirely aesthetic outcome that only hurts your chances of winning unless your table is weirdly laid out or something. Also you can only jump hits within 6" of the target, too
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Jan 18, 2018 01:38
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Der Shovel posted:With the news that Saga 2nd Edition is coming in a few weeks, I decided this would be a good time to jump in. Any thoughts on which warbands would be good starters against each other? I assume vikings of some kind versus brits? vikings or saxons are a good goto for footslogging melee dudes. i think normans are a good second choice, as they rely on cav and archers, so it provides a different playstyle
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Jan 18, 2018 08:09
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I've just picked up the Perry's ACW battle box to split with a friend to play Sharp Practice with. I'm going to be playing as the union, and I'm wondering about how to paint them up. Specifically I'm considering painting them up as a USCT regiment. However, I'm torn on this for a couple of reasons. First, I suck painting darker skin tones. Does anyone have a good guide? Secondly, I'm sort of... Uncomfortable? Having white officers as would be historically accurate. Is this just me being dumb or should I just nudge history to one side and make the NCOs and COs African American too?
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Jan 18, 2018 10:03
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Phi230 posted:
It's a pretty common way to make flexible regiments for army sized Napoleonic battles. Basically, some armies (like the French) don't have unique facing colours for most of their infantry regiments. So you can just smash out a couple of hundred identical footsloggers (center and flank companies) and then paint up a new semicircle for each regiment that a scenario asks for and you'll have the correct regiments. Meanwhile, an Austrian or British player would have to make sure that the facing colours are at least close enough. Or, you could choose not to be a rivet-counter. It's up to personal preference. In this case I assume that it's supposed to represent three battalions of the same light infantry regiment, as one of the flags is a fanion. By 1812 Napoleon had ordered a change to the flag structure, where only the first battalion of a regiment would carry an eagle and the tricolor flag. The rest of the battalions would carry simpler flags, with different colours (white, red, gold, blue, green). They were supposed to be plain, but many battalions started to stitch their battalion numbers on them, and then decorate them in gold etc. until they looked little like the simple identifier that they were meant to be. Others ignored the order and kept using more flags and eagles than they were supposed to. So you can go either way and still have history on your side, there are written records regarding some regiments but far from all. I haven't played BP but I don't think the rules cares about more than unit width, so it should work fine. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jan 18, 2018 |
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Jan 18, 2018 10:25
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Nifara posted:I've just picked up the Perry's ACW battle box to split with a friend to play Sharp Practice with. I'm going to be playing as the union, and I'm wondering about how to paint them up. Dark skin tones can be easily painted by applying a regular flesh tone base coat and then applying a couple of dark brown washes over that until you're happy with the result. I've used Citadel Colour washes, specifically their Devlan Mud or Agrax Earthshade washes to accomplish this. It works really well, and as you're using washes the coats will dry darker in the recesses of the face, creating natural low and highlights as the light undercoat shows through. The officers are a matter of personal choice, but I don't think painting them to reflect the actual makeup of a regiment like the 54th Mass. is a terrible sin that you need to feel bad about-- that's the way the actual regiments were staffed. It's not like you're perpetuating the Lost Cause myth. Fearless fucked around with this message at 10:50 on Jan 18, 2018 |
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Jan 18, 2018 10:42
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Nifara posted:I've just picked up the Perry's ACW battle box to split with a friend to play Sharp Practice with. I'm going to be playing as the union, and I'm wondering about how to paint them up. I have a clubmate doing WW2 US for Chain of Command, and he has a similar problem. The US army was racist as hell and the segregated units would be led by white officers, because racism. I think you have to go with your gut, either do the historically correct representation (which is good since it showcases how things were and avoids whitewashing history), or nudge things (which is good if it means that you enjoy painting and gaming with your army more). These things are tricky, I mean, I myself can enjoy painting Heer and DAK platoons, but would feel uncomfortable painting up and playing a SS platoon. It's a personal thing where there's no right answer.
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Jan 18, 2018 10:45
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Fearless posted:Dark skin tones can be easily painted by applying a regular flesh tone base coat and then applying a couple of dark brown washes over that until you reach a desired colour. I'll have a couple of goes at some test models and see what looks right. Thanks! lilljonas posted:I have a clubmate doing WW2 US for Chain of Command, and he has a similar problem. The US army was racist as hell and the segregated units would be led by white officers, because racism. I think you have to go with your gut, either do the historically correct representation (which is good since it showcases how things were and avoids whitewashing history), or nudge things (which is good if it means that you enjoy painting and gaming with your army more). It is hard. I'm honestly looking at it and considering (in a cowardly fashion?) just going with a white regiment instead so I don't have to think about it. Which feels just as bad. I've just been looking into if there were any African American troops serving outside the USCT, and there weren't, but apparently there were a small number of black officers (80 COs in total), so I'll just pretend it's them. Thanks for all the help folks. It's even harder as a brit trying to navigate this because it's hard to see where the cultural baggage is.
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Jan 18, 2018 10:51
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I know what you mean. When I was painting my Veitnam US, I did a bunch of research on how many of the platoon should be black. While it's well known that the poorer Afro-American population was drafted disproportiantly to the richer parts of the population, I read in a few places that due to the civil right movement, a lot of (mostly white) officers decided it was simpler to keep the in non-combat roles. In the end, I went sod it and painted about a 3rd. its 15mm, I'm the only person who is going to notice. Now I'm doing AWI I'm wondering if I should sneak one or two black faces into the British line, as they did recruit from the local population more. I rewatched The Patriot the other day (not as bad as I remeber, but its the American Dream version of the AWI) and I noticed they slipped a black guy into the British ranks during one of the battles. Yay for our idiot ancestors right!
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Jan 18, 2018 11:16
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The Continental Army had black soldiers, too, especially Northern regiments.
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Jan 18, 2018 11:45
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****furiously starts researching the correct skin colour ratio of AWI units in 1778****
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Jan 18, 2018 11:55
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I'm not woke, but I'm going wild-ish with skin colors in Necromunda!
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Jan 18, 2018 12:12
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JcDent posted:I'm not woke, but I'm going wild-ish with skin colors in Necromunda! I've really enjoyed painting my necromunda minis so far for the genuine breadth of skin tones you can include. I've got gangers with dark tones, light, inflamed, rotting, dyed skin and all kinds of other wacky stuff. Lots of fun. Of course, it's easier when you're not representing actual real people 
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Jan 18, 2018 12:20
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Grey Hunter posted:I know what you mean. When I was painting my Veitnam US, I did a bunch of research on how many of the platoon should be black. While it's well known that the poorer Afro-American population was drafted disproportiantly to the richer parts of the population, I read in a few places that due to the civil right movement, a lot of (mostly white) officers decided it was simpler to keep the in non-combat roles. There were some emancipated slaves and men of french-african heritage in the French Napoleonic army as well, after the very convoluted on-again-off-again legislation regarding the colonies, especially Saint-Domingue. During part of the Revolution they were considered equal citizens. Many worked their way to France where there was temporarily a strong support for emancipation before the policies switched back as the revolutionary zeal started to die down. Several ended up in the army (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas-Alexandre_Dumas for a very interesting example of this).
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Jan 18, 2018 13:17
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So you can paint one 6mm man as a black dude!
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Jan 18, 2018 15:26
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There really are two types of wargamers. Those who worry over the ethnic diversity of thier forces, and those who stick swastikas on anything.
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Jan 18, 2018 16:01
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Grey Hunter posted:I know what you mean. When I was painting my Veitnam US, I did a bunch of research on how many of the platoon should be black. While it's well known that the poorer Afro-American population was drafted disproportiantly to the richer parts of the population, I read in a few places that due to the civil right movement, a lot of (mostly white) officers decided it was simpler to keep the in non-combat roles. I did roughly the same thing, also for 15mm Vietnam. I went with about 20% very dark skin, 20% mid-tone skin, the rest light skin. 
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Jan 18, 2018 16:45
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You guys are worrying me now. When I get around to painting my 1960's Irish in the Congo will I be able to get the right shade of sunburn? 
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Jan 18, 2018 17:51
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Arquinsiel posted:You guys are worrying me now. When I get around to painting my 1960's Irish in the Congo will I be able to get the right shade of sunburn? Hope you saved a bottle of old GW Tentacle Pink...
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Jan 18, 2018 18:10
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Grey Hunter posted:Crosspostin! Yeah. Here are mine.
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Jan 18, 2018 18:35
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lilljonas posted:I haven't played BP but I don't think the rules cares about more than unit width, so it should work fine. Commanders in Black Powder are very abstracted and don't have a specified facing width like a block of infantry does- both it and the Pike and Shotte book have lots of pics of little commander dioramas that are pretty neat.
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Jan 18, 2018 19:21
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Hey Lilljonas, Are these the same samurai models Warlord has been releasing for a while, just in new boxes? http://articles.warlordgames.com/ashigaru-spearmen/
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Jan 18, 2018 19:54
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:Hey Lilljonas, Yes those are the old Wargames Factory sprues that Warlord got when they bought up parts of WGF. Warlord now sells them as plain sprues with round bases (the basic warband for ToH), with various metal heads (the ToH expansions) and as plain sprues with square bases and transfer sheets (the boxes you linked). E: their release text is also hilariously wrong. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jan 18, 2018 |
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Jan 18, 2018 20:03
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The new metal ones though are pretty nice, particularly the Bandits and Brigands set.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:22
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Cessna posted:Hope you saved a bottle of old GW Tentacle Pink...
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Jan 18, 2018 22:39
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My entire AWI army is white (because it's primered and nothing more)
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Jan 19, 2018 01:26
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