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Bud posted:
I hardly used it as I didn't take the car on many long trips. It would engage and worked fine until you hit a certain speed (or maybe RPM?) and then it would sometimes shut off. It was a relatively high speed, around 77MPH or something like that.
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Jan 25, 2018 15:09
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Bud posted:I just pulled the unit from Nocheez's 99 - came out intact and I was going to list it for $125. If you're interested shoot me a PM and I will get some pics over. Thanks for the offer but im in germany and shipping would probably be ridiculous. Original cruise control for the MX-5 is pretty rare over here though. I had a look around and couldn't find anything except for third party solutions.
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Jan 25, 2018 15:16
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Shai-Hulud posted:Thanks for the offer but im in germany and shipping would probably be ridiculous. You'd actually be surprised, if you don't need it quickly shipping is fairly reasonable between the US and Europe. I've bought several European market parts for my MkI Focus - including some that required large boxes, like grills and bumper lips - and I don't think I've ever paid more than $40 in shipping charges. Of course, at that rate you're looking at a 2-3 week turnaround.
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Jan 25, 2018 17:22
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ionn posted:I just pulled the trigger and ordered the various bits needed to put cruise control in my NB, as that is something I am very much missing. It seems to me like there just were no NA or NB's with cruise control sold in Europe (at least I have yet to encounter a single one), even on editions that had it everywhere else. Seems like they all had the wiring harness connectors for it though. Just hoping installation won't be too much of a hassle, if it's as straightforward as it seems to be for the NA it should be fine. I installed factory CC parts on my 92 last year, and it was more involved than I anticipated. Doable, but lots of time crunched up under the dash. In my case, the dash harness didn't have the wiring for the on/off switch. I hunted down the proper pigtail and had to splice in 5 wires IIRC, relatively easy as they all ran close by to the switch location. From what I gathered, the body harnesses all had the CC pigtails put in place no matter what, and the dash harness had it as an option. The next issue was how the NA cruise actuator hooks up to the throttle pedal vs. the throttle body. I had all the pedal parts on a take off pedal assembly (throttle and brake on the framework,) and felt it was easier to swap them out complete vs. trying to get up under the dash far enough to put the individual parts in place. Not sure this saved any time, but gave a lot more room to work with, since the column was down out of the way. I don't know if the NB works the same way (off the throttle pedal) just be prepared for a fight if so. Lastly, and this might be an NA only issue, once it was all hooked up, it didn't work. Turns out the CC brain box needs a speed signal, which it gets from the backside of the instrument cluster, a wire thats normally in the dash harness. Luckily, the IC printed circuit has a terminal point marked "speed" I think. I was able to run a small eyelet from there and wire down to the proper CC module wire and have it work just fine. Hopefully your dash harness has all the CC stuff, and the NB changed the hookup point for the actuator cable and a VSS reference. If you skip those issues, it should be far easier for you.
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Jan 25, 2018 18:24
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Whahappen posted:I installed factory CC parts on my 92 last year, and it was more involved than I anticipated. Yeah, the two things that feel are a bit uncertain are if I really have all the right things in the wiring harness, and the accelerator pedal thing (if I got the right kind). As for the wiring, I'm pretty comfortable with car electrics/electronics and can almost certainly get things connected, but it would sure be less hassle if it's all there with the proper plugs and all. I haven't sold off my NA yet, and if the NB is missing some cruise control harness bits and the connectors are the same, I can just steal those from the NA. Interesting about the differences in body and dashboard harnesses. As said I don't know what state my NB is in, but at least the NA had what looked like complete wiring for cruise control. It definitely has the connector for the vacuum servo (which would be on the body harness), but it also has a couple connectors that I am pretty sure are the plugs for the cruise control wiper stalk and control unit. The accelerator pedal seems to be pretty similar between NA and NB, including how the cruise control cable attaches. I'm definitely going to just take the whole pedal assembly out and not try to assemble things in place. I've ordered an entire brake+accelerator pedal assembly, but I'll see if I replace the whole thing or just swap out some bits (depending on how well things fit and what condition they are in).
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Jan 25, 2018 23:12
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I never used my CC because the only comfortable spot to rest my foot was on the gas pedal.
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Jan 26, 2018 02:45
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Joe Mama posted:I never used my CC because the only comfortable spot to rest my foot was on the gas pedal. Same. I think my ND probably has it but I'm not even sure. My old Kia had it and I only used it once or twice in the 7 years I owned it.
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Jan 26, 2018 02:50
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I've had a NA and NB with CC and it felt weirdly laggy compared to every other car. If you started going up a hill it'd eventually add more power, but not before you lost 10MPH, same deal going down a hill, eventually you'd slow down but first you had to go 10MPH over before the computer would decide to correct. I don't know if both of mine were faulty but it made me not trust NA/NB CC when everything else I've driven stays within 3MPH and reacts fast as soon as the load changes. I used to drive cross country for 10+ hours a day so I'd use cruise control a lot, but I never trusted it in Miatas.
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Jan 26, 2018 03:23
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If it can just hold semi-constant speed on a flat highway, it is probably way more trustworthy than my foot.
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Jan 26, 2018 09:48
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Oh look, someone using channel locks to push the rear pistons in on an NB. here-> 
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Jan 30, 2018 22:44
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So I'm driving this dirty little bastard: And I need an expert opinion. I'll need a new softtop in the foreseeable future. Can I pull of a beige one even though I only got the regular black fabric interior? Every car I've seen with a beige roof also had the matching interior so I'm not certain if it would look good. Opinions?
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Feb 2, 2018 18:35
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I think it would look good. I love tan tops.
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Feb 2, 2018 18:45
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My daily driver for years had an OEM tan top and green body. I actually kind of didn't like how it looked, but marketing thought it looked good enough to be an OEM color option and it never bothered me enough to change it.
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Feb 2, 2018 19:26
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I have an NA (that is getting sold eventually) that is in "twilight blue mica". It has black interior and came with a tan top (which as far as I could tell was the original one, even though it did not match the interior). The top badly needed replacing and I went with a black one, and I think that looked way better. Though if any body color goes well with tan, I'd think it's green. Edit: A couple of the very few pictures I have with the old top and it being up.   ionn fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 07:51
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loving flakey ECU connector. Of course my week of solid testing and driving meant nothing because the dock workers tried to start the car and load into the boat and it didn't. Cost me another 300 bux. Anyone know somewhere that sells NA ecu connectors? Thinking my actual plug is a bit shot and that's what is causing an intermittent no start/no communications issue. Was going to re-tin the wires and jam them into a new connector. If I unplug and replug the connector into the megasquirt everything is peachy until a temperature swing.
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Feb 3, 2018 13:03
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Laranzu posted:loving flakey ECU connector. Of course my week of solid testing and driving meant nothing because the dock workers tried to start the car and load into the boat and it didn't. Look around on plug and play megasquirt things for miatas, maybe miataturbo.net is a better place to ask? I bought the ECU side connector from somewhere (maybe digikey) when I did a PNP megasquirt years back. I remember having to buy 4-5 minimum though just to get one. I'd just find the pin that's hosed and bend it back rather than redoing them all, but that's a little harder when it's intermittent.
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Feb 3, 2018 13:55
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diyautotune may have them.
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Feb 3, 2018 17:27
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There's a stickied thread about connectors on MT iirc.
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Feb 3, 2018 17:45
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Phone posted:There's a stickied thread about connectors on MT iirc. Awesome. Remember seeing one somewhere but had no clue where. I'll dig around more. It's some pin that is feeding the O2 sensor data, or providing power to the MS2's CAN device. When it happens I get no CEL with key on , mega tune errors about comms with the can device, no O2 readings and no start. It's a MS2 enhanced so maybe the Greek guy who builds it will know where to start chasing.
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Feb 3, 2018 19:14
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The ecu connectors were different every couple of years. For the later year NA one's the same connectors show up in Protege/Mazda3.
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Feb 5, 2018 00:42
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Hey guys I just recently bought a 2000 NB, and I’m having a weird issue with the gauge cluster. The tach is jumpy and inaccurate, and the speedo is only working intermittently. I replaced the output speed sensor on the trans because it had been repaired previously (hot glue holding the connector in place) but it’s still doing it. Any other thoughts?
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Feb 8, 2018 12:01
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Hey guys I just recently bought a 2000 NB, and I’m having a weird issue with the gauge cluster. The tach is jumpy and inaccurate, and the speedo is only working intermittently. I replaced the output speed sensor on the trans because it had been repaired previously (hot glue holding the connector in place) but it’s still doing it. Any other thoughts? The speedo cable.
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Feb 8, 2018 12:24
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Larrymer posted:The speedo cable. Sorry but there’s no speedo cable that I know of? It’s an electronic cluster with a gear-driven sender in the transmission.
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Feb 8, 2018 13:15
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Sorry but there’s no speedo cable that I know of? It’s an electronic cluster with a gear-driven sender in the transmission. Ah ok. I know it's a problem on NAs where the speedo goes bouncy, happened on mine at least.
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Feb 8, 2018 13:44
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Hey guys I just recently bought a 2000 NB, and I’m having a weird issue with the gauge cluster. The tach is jumpy and inaccurate, and the speedo is only working intermittently. I replaced the output speed sensor on the trans because it had been repaired previously (hot glue holding the connector in place) but it’s still doing it. Any other thoughts? I wonder if you've got a bad ground in there somewhere.
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Feb 8, 2018 13:58
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BloodBag posted:I wonder if you've got a bad ground in there somewhere. This sounds like the likely culprit.
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Feb 8, 2018 18:18
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Nocheez posted:This sounds like the likely culprit. What are the likely locations for this? I cleaned the contacts on the back of the cluster itself. Edit: I should mention for specificity’s sake that the only instruments affected are tach and speedo. Oil, water and fuel all work. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Feb 8, 2018 |
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Feb 8, 2018 20:35
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Might be something inside the gauge cluster. The signals for speedo and tach come from different sources, and if they both "glitch together", the problem is probably not in either of those. There are some ribbon cables inside the cluster that can get a bit loose and dirty or corroded. Easiest to check first would be the ground cable, I think most of that stuff is bolted to the body just behind the left headlight.
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Feb 8, 2018 21:43
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ionn posted:Might be something inside the gauge cluster. The signals for speedo and tach come from different sources, and if they both "glitch together", the problem is probably not in either of those. There are some ribbon cables inside the cluster that can get a bit loose and dirty or corroded. Easiest to check first would be the ground cable, I think most of that stuff is bolted to the body just behind the left headlight. I’ll probably pull the cluster again this weekend and test it with a multimeter. I checked the ground behind the headlight (could only see one?) and pulled and cleaned the main ground strap. No change but i guess I’m not totally confident that the strap could be saved. It was almost black with corrosion. The hunt continues.
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Feb 9, 2018 00:19
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My driver's side cooling fan is dead. After swapping relays around, front probing, back probing, and generally troubleshooting with the diagnostics box, I've declared the fan motor ded. My dear goons, would installing the flyin miata stage 2 cooling fans disqualify me from E street class in autocross? I don't see anything in the rules about cooling fans (or coolant reroutes for that matter). I dunno that this would 'increase performance' and it hits the car with a weight penalty. I really want these fans, but if I'd get bumped up a class, I'll just replace the motor. I want the shiny.
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Feb 11, 2018 11:15
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I personally don't think so as a cooling fan doesn't really add to the performance of the vehicle more than the reliability. Anyone who tries to petition you over it is kind of a dick.
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Feb 11, 2018 12:54
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Spending money on better cooling fans for a non-turbo street Miata is a really stupid waste of money. Get a wooden shift knob or something if you want to waste money.
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Feb 11, 2018 18:25
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FatCow posted:Spending money on better cooling fans for a non-turbo street Miata is a really stupid waste of money. Get a wooden shift knob or something if you want to waste money. But I have one of those, it's very nice. I suppose I have to dig up a new motor for the fan. In other news, I drove it for the first time since December! Needs shocks. E: I have this exact one, one of the few nice things the PO left me. I did have to re-glue the nylon insert to the wood with epoxy. I like it. 
BloodBag fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 21:09
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drat I want a wood shift knob now
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Feb 11, 2018 22:00
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SpartanIV posted:drat I want a wood shift knob now My cheapo NB came with a very nice Nardi knob. I probably wouldn’t buy one if it hadn’t come with it but it’s really nice.
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Feb 12, 2018 00:48
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So the issue with my gauge cluster was the odometer. I ordered a tested cluster off eBay, installed it and it worked. Swapped my original odometer into it and it didn’t work again. Swapped back, A-OK. Must be something blown internally in the odo unit itself. The new cluster has 6k more miles so it’s within a reasonable error rate as far as I’m concerned. Doesn’t have less, which would be sketchy.
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Feb 16, 2018 14:18
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I guess in your state they still keep track of odometer numbers? In Texas, my title says 'EXEMPT' on the odometer reading, and the previous one did too. I like how I'm putting all this effort into a car with 163k miles 
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Feb 17, 2018 11:42
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BloodBag posted:I guess in your state they still keep track of odometer numbers? In Texas, my title says 'EXEMPT' on the odometer reading, and the previous one did too. I like how I'm putting all this effort into a car with 163k miles I think 20 years is exempt in PA as far as titling goes, but safety inspection stations write the mileage on the sticker and in their logbook.
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Feb 17, 2018 13:04
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BloodBag posted:I guess in your state they still keep track of odometer numbers? In Texas, my title says 'EXEMPT' on the odometer reading, and the previous one did too. I like how I'm putting all this effort into a car with 163k miles I mean, it runs, is fun to drive and you can still get parts for it. At some point you're better off saying gently caress the mileage and keep it running the way you want to.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:37
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| # ? May 27, 2024 17:36 |
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So I bought a Miata! 2015 bare bones guy, with a soft top. Enjoying it so far, already looking at some interior improvements. I’m not in love with the lack of Bluetooth, but the car itself is literally the best sports car (for the money) in the world. Any recommendations for ways to keep the top clean and protected? I’m in a real real wet climate.
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Feb 18, 2018 06:37
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