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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Can I just plug the controller for my heated gear into the battery tender pigtail that's already in place on my bike? It's fused, but the Gerbing pigtail is not. It's a pretty low current fuse IIRC, 7.5 probably. How many items do you have? The gloves pull about an amp each but the jacket takes like 7A at maximum power. So you might need to replace that fuse, depending. Other than that I can't see there'd be a problem so long as the plugs match.
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Feb 11, 2018 19:27
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Jolarix posted:Is it okay to use a portable jump-starter if my CB300F battery dies? It's usually parked nowhere near any AC outlets, and removing the battery completely is a pain, now that I have a few accessories hard-wired in. Your bike will be fine because jump starting is indistinguishable from normal starting as far as the electrical system goes, however I have personally seen two of those lithium jump starters blow the gently caress up after a few weeks of regular use. A better use of your time and money would be to wire in a battery tender pigtail that dangles out below the seat or something. Or just ride your bike more so it doesn't go flat.
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Feb 11, 2018 19:38
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One thing I've learned from watching The Television is that lithium batteries are the batteries of Satan. They will literally explode and shoot jets of acetylene fire out of themselves if you do anything slightly inappropriate with them. I don't know how any electric/hybrid car owner survives the daily commute.
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Feb 11, 2018 20:56
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Renaissance Robot posted:How many items do you have? The gloves pull about an amp each but the jacket takes like 7A at maximum power. So you might need to replace that fuse, depending. Gloves and a jacket. I figured I'd need at least a 12A fuse for the whole thing. Kinda baffles me that there's not a fuse on the Gerbing wiring. Maybe there's one in the controller.
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Feb 11, 2018 21:35
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Gloves and a jacket. I figured I'd need at least a 12A fuse for the whole thing. Kinda baffles me that there's not a fuse on the Gerbing wiring. Maybe there's one in the controller. My gerbing controller came with a battery pigtail that included a fuse. I tried using the battery tender lead but the fuse blew. I wasn't thrilled with going from a 5 amp fuse to a 10 or 15 amp fuse so I installed a powerlet.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:12
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If the battery tender harness is the same gauge or thicker wiring as the Gerbing harness is, dropping a 15A fuse isn't going to kill anything. My battery tender harnesses came w/ 15A fuses in them already. I currently have a separate harness for heated gear connected to the battery in addition to the tender harness because I have yet to get around to finding an SAE (tender)> coax (heated gear) pigtail with the correct polarity.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:06
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So it's that time again to replace my brake pads, and as usual the pistons are horrifyingly filthy and caked in brake dust and other crap. I know there exist brakes on some cars whose design incorporates a concertina type dust seal that extends to cover the piston through its full range of travel so you don't need to clean the thing off every time you shove it back into the caliper to mount new pads. Why doesn't this appear to be a thing for any bikes? Is it an issue of size? Cost?  ? A case of nobody who bikes being boring enough to desire such a feature?
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Feb 12, 2018 12:12
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I think because the travel is comparatively so tiny that the bellows would need to be very thin and therefore fragile? That’s my guess anyway.
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Feb 12, 2018 13:24
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I could swear that my old GS750 had such bellows, or at least a rubber seal there. They only extend when the piston is really out there, never in a case where the brake pad is in the caliper. No room.
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Feb 12, 2018 15:01
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My bike had a rubber boot around the piston. Didn't seal it in perfectly, but it was more dirty than the piston so obviously did some good.
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Feb 12, 2018 15:19
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Slide Hammer posted:I could swear that my old GS750 had such bellows, or at least a rubber seal there. They only extend when the piston is really out there, never in a case where the brake pad is in the caliper. No room. Looking up pictures it does appear to have the kind of folded rubber boot I'm talking about, so clearly a thing. Only single pot though so maybe it's a size/packaging thing.
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Feb 12, 2018 17:43
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It seems like a packaging thing cause not even dirt bikes have them yet anything with old timey brakes (gn250 is a good example) with one big fuckoff piston does have them.
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Feb 12, 2018 19:55
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Yeah it’s probably that modern brakes are much smaller and have less/smaller open spaces. I have honestly never seen bellows on brakes ever, so either all mine have been missing or they aren’t very common.
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Feb 12, 2018 21:13
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I see bellows on brakes all the time but I'm usually working on 70s/80s Japanese stuff
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Feb 12, 2018 23:52
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My bike (Daytona 675) recently started having problems starting, it's not consistent but it seems to only be when it's warmed up. It doesn't even try to crank when I hit the start button, which is typical for my bike when the battery is dead, but usually it will reset the screen when that happens, which isn't happening here. Also, I've been able to get it to start by just switching off the key and the kill switch, then switching everything back on. That's worked every time except Saturday, when I just couldn't get it to start after coming home from a long ride, but I tried a few hours later and it was fine. I did have a battery run low recently, but I bought an optimate battery tender which was able to bring it back to life. I don't think it's the battery because it'll work once it cools down, but I haven't checked the voltage to see what it's showing when it won't start. Any chance it has to do with heat affecting battery performance? I think it only started happening once I ran the battery down, but I'm not 100% on that. It's probably the cheapest / easiest thing to start with if I'm going to throw parts at it anyway, but is there some other way of going about this I should be doing instead? I guess I could go ride it around for a while, see if it has issues starting, and if so, check the voltage. FWIW my bike is very sensitive to battery voltage, some sort of ECU low voltage cutoff / protection thing. When a battery dies it'll start fine one moment, then the next time you try and start the bike it just won't crank.
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Feb 12, 2018 23:52
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check voltages at cold and hot, double check terminal tightness/connection
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Feb 13, 2018 00:34
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MomJeans420 posted:My bike (Daytona 675) recently started having problems starting,... my bike is very sensitive to battery voltage, some sort of ECU low voltage cutoff / protection thing. When a battery dies it'll start fine one moment, then the next time you try and start the bike it just won't crank. If it gets better when you cycle the kill switch, that switch may be failing/dirty. Clean it, and the start switch.
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Feb 13, 2018 02:55
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I'd wager that's either a faulty main relay or a poo poo earth cause triumphs have truly retarded earthing setups compared to normal modern bikes.
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Feb 13, 2018 03:33
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My back brake has stoppped working - if I pump the hell out of the pedal I get about 3 seconds of use then it fades away again. I've changed the fluid and it now takes a few less pumps to get it to work but it still fades off after a couple of seconds. I'm guessing MC seal? Anything else you can think of to check before I sign up for a second mortgage to get a Brembo rebuild kit?
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Feb 13, 2018 15:07
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How dumb is it for me (weighing 65-70kg) to ride solo with my rear preload set for 120-130kg? I've read running too much preload in the back leaves the suspension near the top of its range of travel, which makes it easier to top out completely under hard braking and at that point makes a rear wheel lock/skid easier, but if I'm not hooning solo then how likely is that to actually happen? This is only even a question because my bike is stupid and I can't adjust the shock without removing it (which isn't hard but is a bit of a process), and I can't afford £200 for a remote hydraulic adjuster (or even find one for sale by itself; I super can't afford £600 for a new shock that comes with one already attached)
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Feb 13, 2018 17:43
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goddamnedtwisto posted:My back brake has stoppped working - if I pump the hell out of the pedal I get about 3 seconds of use then it fades away again. I've changed the fluid and it now takes a few less pumps to get it to work but it still fades off after a couple of seconds. I'm guessing MC seal? Anything else you can think of to check before I sign up for a second mortgage to get a Brembo rebuild kit? It's your monster right? They have a super poo poo rear MC that always manages to draw in air without leaking fluid. The ABS is kind of cunty to bleed as well cause it's up so high but it's definitely possible to do it without mechanical assistance. Renaissance Robot posted:How dumb is it for me (weighing 65-70kg) to ride solo with my rear preload set for 120-130kg? You can crash pretty easily that way if you have to brake downhill or in the rain, not to mention the lethal cornering behavior. Why not compromise and have it set somewhere between the two extremes?
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Feb 13, 2018 19:17
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If that's really a reasonable compromise then I'm happy to do it. I'd have asked specifically about that but my post was getting kinda bloated.
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Feb 13, 2018 19:55
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If you have too much rear preload but still some travel you'll get an oversteery bike but it's manageable. If you don't have enough preload with a passenger on you'll just do lots of wheelies and understeer a bit. Not the end of the world. I've been in a similar situation, my sherpa really only had the balance I wanted with the rear preload nearly maxed, but that made it absolutely lethal downhill and at high speeds so I had to compromise. Do you really ride with a pillion more often than you ride by yourself?
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Feb 13, 2018 20:15
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Slavvy posted:It's your monster right? They have a super poo poo rear MC that always manages to draw in air without leaking fluid. The ABS is kind of cunty to bleed as well cause it's up so high but it's definitely possible to do it without mechanical assistance. Yeah, I've read some horror stories on the owners forums about issues with bleeding them, and now I think about it... if the MC wasn't sealing, I'd feel the lever dropping if I kept pressure on it once I'd pumped it up, right? The fluid level never dropped anywhere near minimum so I'd be surprised if I'd managed to get enough air in there to cause an issue, though.
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Feb 13, 2018 20:38
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Slavvy posted:Do you really ride with a pillion more often than you ride by yourself? Not really, but when I do we're usually getting groceries or something so we end up pretty close to bottoming out. I guess I could throw an extra 20kg or so of preload on there to balance that extra bit of weight out and be fine. I wish I had the cash to just get an adjustable shock; having to make lovely compromises on account of being skint loving sucks 
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Feb 13, 2018 21:40
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah, I've read some horror stories on the owners forums about issues with bleeding them, and now I think about it... if the MC wasn't sealing, I'd feel the lever dropping if I kept pressure on it once I'd pumped it up, right? The fluid level never dropped anywhere near minimum so I'd be surprised if I'd managed to get enough air in there to cause an issue, though. It's an interesting one. I've found pumping up the pressure then cracking the rear brake banjos on the ABS unit one by one is pretty effective. The amount of air needed to make a rear brake suck poo poo is really, really tiny as many an Aprilia owner has discovered. Renaissance Robot posted:Not really, but when I do we're usually getting groceries or something so we end up pretty close to bottoming out. I guess I could throw an extra 20kg or so of preload on there to balance that extra bit of weight out and be fine. All bike setup is compromise even at the highest level. IMO it's easier to just buy a better bike than upgrading the one you've got unless you're madly in love with the thing.
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Feb 13, 2018 22:08
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I am madly in love with the ZZR600  e/ it's an intractable piece of poo poo in so many ways, but it's stable and comfortable and more than fast enough and it just looks right from every angle. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Feb 13, 2018 |
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Feb 13, 2018 22:32
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Sir, I'm afraid your condition is terminal. Have you investigated bolt-in second hand options from another bike?
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Feb 13, 2018 22:59
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I have*, but it's really the remote preloader I'm interested in more than any sort of performance upgrade. I like how it rides as-is (solo at least), I'm just considering quality of life mods in order of cheapness because I can't afford to get a new more pillion-friendly bike right now. *there's pretty much none, the zx6e monoshock is weirdly long compared to most comparable bikes Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Feb 14, 2018 |
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Feb 14, 2018 00:02
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Ironically I have an ohlins with a knob preload adjuster that came off a zx6e sitting on my shelf that I'm trying to get rid of and nobody loving wants it.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:41
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How much do you want for it?
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Feb 14, 2018 02:21
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Renaissance Robot posted:How much do you want for it? PM'd
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Feb 14, 2018 08:24
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I'm just about going nuts trying to find this stuff--the foam under the gas-tank. Could this just be ordinary foam or is it some specialty foam with special properties? Also if anyone has a good place to suggest for ordering fasteners that ships to Canada? A previous owner went freaking crazy on a few bolts and totally stripped the inner hex. I had to use destructive measures to take it out. Now I need new fasteners. e: welp--found a site that sells all of the above hah e2: gently caress, they don't ship to Canada. e3: solved what an adventure for us all The RECAPITATOR fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Feb 15, 2018 |
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Feb 15, 2018 01:53
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Now please solve the mystery as to why you're the first person on this earth to give any shits about that foam.
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Feb 15, 2018 02:23
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Slavvy posted:Now please solve the mystery as to why you're the first person on this earth to give any shits about that foam. This will require the help of someone a lot sharper than I am.
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Feb 15, 2018 03:05
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My bike has been dropped twice in the last month : first was a massive gust of wind that managed to push a fully fueled DRZ over onto its right side. The second was trying to negotiate some rain-slicked tram tracks at 20 kmh and failing, subsequently smashing the left side of my bike and tearing my supraspinatus. Now my forks are misaligned, and I don't have a torque wrench. Is it dumb to try and reset something as critical my forks without a torque wrench or should I suck it up and pay criminal money for a shop to do It?
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Feb 17, 2018 08:50
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If you're just loosening the fork tube clamp bolts then finger tight will be fine.
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Feb 17, 2018 10:34
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I realigned my forks in rando places like a store parking lot or on the side of the trail. I've never once used a torque wrench for the job.
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Feb 17, 2018 13:58
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Yeah take a deep breath, it's a two wheeled tractor not a space shuttle. Just use a spanner or a 1/4" ratchet, avoid doing them retard tight and you'll be fine.
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Feb 17, 2018 19:26
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you're just loosening the fork tube clamp bolts then finger tight will be fine. I think you and I have a different definition of this term, because for me "finger-tight" means "as tight as you can get it without tools" and  if that's how you're tightening your forks in place. I measured it once with my little baby torque wrench and finger-tight for me is like 1.5 lb-ft.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:52
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