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berzerkmonkey posted:Drinking it is best. Leave it out and let it evaporate.
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Feb 16, 2018 21:48
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Leave it out and let it evaporate. Where's the fun in that? My concern in evaporation is that you'll still get toxins releasing into your basement/garage/rumpus room/whatever and that could have the potential to give you headaches at the minimum, or cancer at the worst.
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Feb 16, 2018 21:53
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berzerkmonkey posted:Where's the fun in that? Put it outside and let it evaporate. You're likely using less than if you were using it for its original purpose, so personally I wouldn't be too worried.
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Feb 16, 2018 22:02
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SRM posted:Careful with all that poo poo, brake cleaner is mad toxic and you can only dispose of it in certain ways. how old are those models? can you still buy them? EDIT: holy poo poo you can, and for only $45 for 5! What a deal!
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Feb 16, 2018 23:33
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While both of you are in the same place I demand fluffdivers: Alpha Legion.
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Feb 17, 2018 02:24
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The Sex Cannon posted:how old are those models? can you still buy them? They're from 4th ed, 2005 or so. All mine are Finecast so any head or weaponswaps you see are to fix casting issues  And fwiw I had enough replacements of these guys that I was able to sell off and got the whole squad for basically 20 bux
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Feb 17, 2018 04:32
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Anyone have any experience with plague toads? I want to glue them to their bases, but it seems like that would make basing/painting all the little spots under them really hard.
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Feb 17, 2018 05:30
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Against my better judgement I have agreed to paint some Reaper Bones orcs. Anyone have suggestions? I’ve read horror stories about the way it sheds primer and paint.
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Feb 17, 2018 07:49
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I've not had any problems using army painter sprays on Bones, just wash them first
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Feb 17, 2018 09:37
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The One-Two Punch posted:Against my better judgement I have agreed to paint some Reaper Bones orcs. Anyone have suggestions? I’ve read horror stories about the way it sheds primer and paint. Some spray primers don't react well to the plastic. As I recall Army Painter spray worked fine, but you should check the bones thread for more details on which are good for that route. I've never had problems priming bones with villejo brush on primer.
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Feb 17, 2018 10:13
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Same, I've used Army Painter spray on pretty much all my Bones stuff and not had any issues outside of a couple of models that had a weird reaction (probably to mould release that wasn't cleaned off properly or something) and became a bit sticky to the touch, though those painted up fine anyway.
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Feb 17, 2018 12:02
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 For the escalation tournament I'm playing in, I had to finish off my special weapons for my final Plague marine squads and now they look ready to release a new album
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Feb 17, 2018 14:07
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The One-Two Punch posted:Against my better judgement I have agreed to paint some Reaper Bones orcs. Anyone have suggestions? I’ve read horror stories about the way it sheds primer and paint. I use stynylrez primers on Bones without any issue.
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Feb 17, 2018 17:55
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Ok, I just got the Badget Patriot from their sale. I know I still have a bunch of other stuff to get, but the airbrush section is so packed I wanted to double check in a separate post. I need the following in addition: compressor, connector, convertor, respirator. Is that all?
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Feb 17, 2018 20:54
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Pyrolocutus posted:Ok, I just got the Badget Patriot from their sale. Compressor - Yes Connector/Converter - If you’re using a hose that comes with the compressor then you just need the Badger adapter to fit it to the airbrush. I recommend the one that allows you to quick-disconnect the brush. Respirator - Yes. 3M makes a plethora of great ones all readily available.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:13
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Also you crazy bastards have made me grab mineral spirits and oil paints today, hope you’re happy.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:14
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You'll probably want a spray box. Masters has one that's good and the identical unit is also available through other manufacturer names. The lighted version is quite good. Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, an airbrush cleaning pot, and airbrush cleaner or ammonia free glass cleaner. If you get the Badger quick disconnect (with regulator is nice) you won't need an adapter for the airbrush threads but QDs are the same size so you can still use another airbrush with QD later.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:15
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Shadin posted:Compressor - Yes Ok, cool. I didn't realize but I gather this little bit I got in an envelope is actually the adaptor, thought it was a part for the main airbrush. I knew about 3M respirator, was planning on going to Lowe's. Do you know if Lowe's or Home Depot sell compressors of the type recommended in the OP, or am I going to Amazon? darnon posted:You'll probably want a spray box. Masters has one that's good and the identical unit is also available through other manufacturer names. The lighted version is quite good. If I'm spraying outside, will the spray box be necessary or can I just go with cardboard box with bottom/side/back?
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Feb 17, 2018 21:25
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Pyrolocutus posted:Ok, cool. I didn't realize but I gather this little bit I got in an envelope is actually the adaptor, thought it was a part for the main airbrush. I knew about 3M respirator, was planning on going to Lowe's. Do you know if Lowe's or Home Depot sell compressors of the type recommended in the OP, or am I going to Amazon? You’ll want a hobby compressor. I’ve got this one and it’s been great thus far. If you’re spraying outside then a cardboard box would be fine. Out of curiosity what’s your setup like that you’re airbrushing outdoors?
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Feb 17, 2018 21:39
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Shadin posted:You’ll want a hobby compressor. I’ve got this one and it’s been great thus far. Guess it's to Amazon I go after all, thanks for your help. My setup is basically a huge-rear end backyard, with a neighbor on one side who literally uses his suburban house as a vacation home and is only there like every other week. So I've got plenty of room to work with and not a lot of people to bother with the noise. Is there something else I'm overlooking, honestly curious.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:45
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Pyrolocutus posted:Guess it's to Amazon I go after all, thanks for your help. If you're in the US you can likely get a compressor from Michael's at 40% off w/ a coupon.
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Feb 17, 2018 22:05
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Science Rocket posted:
That purple desperately needs an edge highlight. It's so dark it's similar to the green which just makes the colours run into each other. Get a light purple and do an edge highlight and it'll clearly define the colours so much better.
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Feb 17, 2018 23:41
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How do I do weathering like this? In the comments he talks about using a sponge, but... that can't just be sponge chipping, can it? Like, he seems to have faded and distressed the decals in ways that are inobvious to me. Anyone have a good tutorial on this sort of thing? (I don't mean the bullet-holes, obviously that's a drill. I just mean the 2D effects.) Stephenls fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Feb 18, 2018 |
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Feb 18, 2018 01:55
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Actually ended up finding an iwata at a local Michael's for 50% off  Weather tomorrow is gonna be good so I guess I'll try loading up the brush with water tomorrow and experimenting.
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Feb 18, 2018 02:23
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Stephenls posted:How do I do weathering like this? In the comments he talks about using a sponge, but... that can't just be sponge chipping, can it? Like, he seems to have faded and distressed the decals in ways that are inobvious to me. This entire video is one big blur. I don't even
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Feb 18, 2018 04:44
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dexefiend posted:Here is my year-to-date Vior'la T'au:
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Feb 18, 2018 05:15
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I had the idea of making my Warhammer Underworlds Fyreslayers look sort of like lava monsters, like their skin is made out of smoldering rock. My theory is this: Prime black, paint some swirling patterns of red/orange/yellow on their skin, then put on some Astrogranite Debris with some of the color underneath showing in various places. In those places that show color, I'll drybrush some of the color on the Astrogranite Debris for a glow effect. Would that work?
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Feb 18, 2018 15:40
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LifeLynx posted:I had the idea of making my Warhammer Underworlds Fyreslayers look sort of like lava monsters, like their skin is made out of smoldering rock. My theory is this: Prime black, paint some swirling patterns of red/orange/yellow on their skin, then put on some Astrogranite Debris with some of the color underneath showing in various places. In those places that show color, I'll drybrush some of the color on the Astrogranite Debris for a glow effect. I feel like you could do it two ways. 1. Don't prime black. Go for grey or white, then do your red/orange/yellow. After that, put on Astrogranite Debris. You'll get more of a black earth look that way. 2. As above, but instead of Astroganite Debris, you use black crackle paint over your colors. The crackle will break up in random chunks, and will have a smoother look to it.
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Feb 18, 2018 17:09
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Quoteth the word of the great BULBASAUR posted:For that base, just put some warm white as a basecoat. Highlight it up and shade it with a creamy white color. Then wash the entire thing with a burnt umber color (I use oils) and follow up with violet pigments for shadows and yellow earth pigments for everything else. Here's how mine turn out: Whoops, wrong painting thread.
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Feb 18, 2018 17:35
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LifeLynx posted:I had the idea of making my Warhammer Underworlds Fyreslayers look sort of like lava monsters, like their skin is made out of smoldering rock. My theory is this: Prime black, paint some swirling patterns of red/orange/yellow on their skin, then put on some Astrogranite Debris with some of the color underneath showing in various places. In those places that show color, I'll drybrush some of the color on the Astrogranite Debris for a glow effect. This video might help.
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Feb 18, 2018 18:44
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Slimnoid posted:2. As above, but instead of Astroganite Debris, you use black crackle paint over your colors. The crackle will break up in random chunks, and will have a smoother look to it. If it helps, some of my test bases trying to do something similar (except with green) for a spooky graveyard soil for my blood bowl undead.  Left three bases and the zombie are Golden crackle medium tinted with various combinations of paint and dry pigments; I found paint alone tended to thin it out too much so you didn't get a good crackle. For the zombie I also drybrushed it with the same green around the cracks. Right base is GW crackle paint, similarly tinted before putting it on the base though I think I made it a bit too thin. I chipped a few of the flakes off after it'd dried to show more of the base colour.
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Feb 19, 2018 10:39
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I've been using Agrellan Earth lately for making rust look a bit rusty. It's cool poo poo. Except I did it kinda backwards. I should have laid down the earth first, then painted the rust over. So it's a huge pita right now because I am determined to have cracks on my rust.
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Feb 19, 2018 15:37
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Cross posting like a boss. Finished up my squad of Swooping Hawks! First face I've painted in years. The wings have a metallic mixed into the paints for a shine - unfortunately it makes it look like it's entirely coated at certain angles.  
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Feb 19, 2018 19:35
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x-post from the Perfect Game system Warhammer 30k thread Hixson posted:finished this guy:
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Feb 19, 2018 20:03
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Any tips on doing winter camouflage without an airbrush? Most of the tutorials I’m seeing rely on airbrushing thin coats of white over hairspray.
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Feb 20, 2018 03:40
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The Sex Cannon posted:If you've been listening to the Badcast, then you know that I've been threatening to get a new phone for a while now. And if you're not listening to the Badcast, then I suggest you do so. Still bummed I had to shuffle games around when you visited and bailed on our planned team game. Hope we get another chance to game before too long. BuffaloChicken fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 08:22
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I painted up a Solitaire this weekend. That’s about all I got done.   
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Feb 20, 2018 14:46
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Just put finished these guys. They could probably use a few touchups later but they're ready for the con this weekend. Ahead of schedule too! Sometime after i'll polish up the step by step guide and do a proper daylight shoot. Unlike my UCM these feel pretty hard to take accurate photos of.
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Feb 20, 2018 18:14
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 Couldn't wait 'til Q4, didn't feel like dropping an unseemly amount of money on 20 year-old metals, so I 'bashed up a gang of Delaques for Necromunda. I've painted Orks, Necrons, and Tyranids over the years, but this is my first attempt at painting humans wearing people clothes. Probably gonna redo the eyes on that juve, he's bugging me.
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Feb 20, 2018 21:40
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Dang. Those look great
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Feb 21, 2018 01:00
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