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Geoj posted:My best guess is safeguard, so you don't accidentally hit the "resume" button after exiting the highway having previously been set to 60+ MPH, causing the car to accelerate unexpectedly. I turn off CC because I want the light on the dash to turn off.
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Mar 14, 2018 22:43
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There's probably some regulation on cruise control that mandates a physical button, like how there was that mandate for the physical linkage between the brake pedal and the cruise control module (instead of relying on the brake light switch or something) that caused all of those trucks to spontaneously catch fire.
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Mar 14, 2018 22:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's confusing as hell to me. All of the pay and sprays here even have a "engine cleaner" setting, and part of running one is that they actually process their drain water. Doing it in your driveway, it's just going into the storm sewers. I don't think I've bothered using them since the early 2000s. But yeah, eco-minded areas, and big signs warning you not to do it. I'll have to check around here, that'd be great if it's allowed.
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Mar 15, 2018 00:18
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Start searching Carmax (default search is within 250 miles, expand it nationally if you have to), and also check Toyota lots in your region, for similarly equipped models. Carmax will probably be better on that, as a 2010 will be a little on the older side for a Toyota lot to have on their used lot (not impossible, but a Toyota lot taking something like that on trade will probably send it to auction, or maybe a buy-here-pay-here lot that they may own). Good call on Carmax, hadn't looked at that one. Found a vehicle that is very close to mine going for about $16k. My insurance is through State Farm so hopefully they will do me right. spog posted:Probably not important, given this forum, but are you okay?  Thanks for asking. I am happy to report that I just have a bruise on my stomach from the seatbelt, and a small cut on my hand from some broken plastic that cut me. All in all, I'd have to say my RAV4 took the hit pretty drat well. I got a 2018 RAV4 for my rental.big crush on Chad OMG posted:To compliment what others said, have your company and their company run the total loss numbers. Take the higher one. Good call, will do! Thank you everybody for the responses, super helpful!
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Mar 15, 2018 00:51
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Human Tornada posted:I want to pay someone to add tint to my windows. Is there a surefire way to go about this so that they don't eventually bubble and look lovely besides "ask around"? Find a local group on facebook/real life. VW/BMW/Honda groups nearby will definitely know someone who does good tint.
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Mar 15, 2018 01:39
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Not sure if it adds much but I just bought my first car that wasn't a family hand me down through CarMax and had a pretty good experience with them. I wish I had bought something before I moved out of LA since the selection was so much better there though. What is peoples general preference for shops to go get a custom head unit installed with? I have Frys, Best Buy, and Car Toys in my area but unsure if any of those three are going to be particularly great. Anything in particular I should be looking out for when looking at head units? I noticed a few (typically lower end) Pioneer units were offered with free installation at least, ideally I'd like to grab a ILX-107 that has wireless CarPlay but at $700 it's probably not worth it. For what it's worth the car in question is a 2014 Camry with the JBL audio, I'd really want to avoid losing the steering wheel controls or rear-view cameras in particular, if possible would even like to add the predictive steering to the rear view but I don't think that's going to be easily added since the car doesn't have it as is. Alternatively, how much of a terrible idea is it to try doing myself? Videos seem easy enough but the risk of screwing something up doesn't seem worth saving the $100-$200 involved in a installation. Also, still getting used to the new car but is getting sub-city mileage pretty much expected for a hilly region where I'm mostly putting in 2-3 miles daily? Last fill up clocked it at sub-20 as opposed to the 21 it has rated. Not a huge deal one way or another as I was accounting for spending more on gas but wondering if there's some key detail I'm forgetting here.
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Mar 15, 2018 01:43
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So my truck still has a weird idle, 1988 F150 5.0L. I'm trying to adjust the idle air adjust spacer that I bought. Basically, some Fords had problems with their idles and this part allows air around the IAC valve to help it. I installed it, but I can't get the idle speed down to what the instructions specify for my year, engine and transmission. Mine's a manual, so for step 7, I'm supposed to adjust the set screws down until it idles at 650 RPM. Well, I've got both set screws all the way shut on this part and the idle will only go as low as 900 RPM. That's the same RPM as my truck was idling before at. Somebody tell me if I'm wrong for assuming this, but this means that on idle my truck is sucking in more air than it should? Because if it is, I technically could adjust the idle screw lower. The problem is that it looks like this, with no apparent way to adjust it, not to mention like all the documentation that I've found says to not touch this screw... So what should I do? Touch the forbidden screw? If so, how? Did I have a bolt head or something rust away over the years?
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Mar 15, 2018 01:50
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I would maybe start looking at all the places air could get in. I'm not sure what your intake looks like or how the throttle body is mounted, but how is the gasket?
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Mar 15, 2018 02:19
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TheOrange posted:Also, still getting used to the new car but is getting sub-city mileage pretty much expected for a hilly region where I'm mostly putting in 2-3 miles daily? Last fill up clocked it at sub-20 as opposed to the 21 it has rated. Not a huge deal one way or another as I was accounting for spending more on gas but wondering if there's some key detail I'm forgetting here. 2-3 miles a day is nowhere near enough time to get it up to temperature, so yeah, your mileage is gonna be poo poo. You should make an attempt to at least weekly drive it for 20 minutes or more to get the oil up to temperature if you care about the longevity of your engine.
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Mar 15, 2018 02:28
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MetaJew posted:So what's the appropriate way to clean an engine bay and not gently caress up any electrics or get water in your spark plug recesses,, intake, etc? I wrap the distributor in a garbage bag and tuck another one in over the plug leads in the middle of the valve cover if I'm going to go to town with a steam cleaner. Just avoid blasting the intake for more than a second or so and you won't put enough water in there to get past the filter.
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Mar 15, 2018 02:48
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Breakfast Feud posted:I would maybe start looking at all the places air could get in. I'm not sure what your intake looks like or how the throttle body is mounted, but how is the gasket? All my intake gaskets are brand new and torqued down to spec.
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Mar 15, 2018 03:06
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So for the powerwashing the engine discussion... I'm a terrible car owner. I just avoid the brake fluid reservoir and the spark plugs, and go to town on the rest. I use low pressure if I'm near the alternator. My car doesn't have a distributor though; nor does it have power steering fluid... on cars I've owned that did have a distributor, I just avoided it with the spray.TheOrange posted:Not sure if it adds much but I just bought my first car that wasn't a family hand me down through CarMax and had a pretty good experience with them. I wish I had bought something before I moved out of LA since the selection was so much better there though. Of the national chains, I'd probably trust Car Toys the most, since that's all they do (Darchangel may know more though, since he worked as a car audio installer for a bit [hey maybe the bold will get his attention!]). I wouldn't let anyone from Fry's near my car with so much as a shopping cart, unless it's one specific person that works car audio at the location close to me (he's been there forever, and he's the only reasonably knowledgeable person about anything I've ever run into at a Fry's in general - their car audio is also a fraction of what it used to be, about 2/3 of the dept at the store close to me is empty... kinda goes for the entire store, really). Check Crutchfield to see what's compatible. The JBL integration will add a little bit, so will an adapter to retain steering wheel controls (not that much to be honest). If you're going to attempt DIY, order from Crutchfield - they're a little higher, but include pretty well done guides specific to your car, and heavily discount what you need to install everything. And yeah, 2-3 miles a day isn't even enough to let the engine warm up fully, so your city mileage will absolutely be terrible. Try to get it on the highway at least a couple of times a month to get it good and warm; that'll also boil any condensation out of the oil. I got my car at Carmax as well. It was expensive for what it was, but here it is 140k/5 years later (200k on the car itself), and it's held up really well (especially for an econobox GM). Aside from a small cigarette burn in the door panel (which I didn't notice for a few weeks after buying it), it looked brand new inside and out when I bought it. They were also the only place that would finance me below 20%  (I still got bent over on interest, but only half as bad as what most places wanted.. my credit is pretty crap).Human Tornada posted:I want to pay someone to add tint to my windows. Is there a surefire way to go about this so that they don't eventually bubble and look lovely besides "ask around"? Don't (EVER!) get the cheapest tint, and use someone that can give a nationwide warranty with 3M or FormulaOne. So long as you go for the mid to high end tint and get someone certified that can give the warranty, you should be good. Also make sure to avoid ever using a glass cleaner with ammonia (NO WINDEX) on the tinted side of the window. Stoner's Invisible Glass is some serious magical poo poo, and relatively easy to find (it's at Wal-Mart and Target in the automotive section, by the detailing stuff - both pump spray and aerosol). Sprayway is the best easily available (in grocery stores) glass cleaner I've found without ammonia, and cheap, but Stoner's kicks its rear end. kid sinister posted:So my truck still has a weird idle, 1988 F150 5.0L. I'm trying to adjust the idle air adjust spacer that I bought. Basically, some Fords had problems with their idles and this part allows air around the IAC valve to help it. I installed it, but I can't get the idle speed down to what I forget - have you tried another throttle body yet? The butterfly is held in by bushings that do wear out over time; air could be getting in around the bushings. It's an idea, if you haven't tried it yet. Platystemon posted:I turn off CC because I want the light on the dash to turn off. The dash light on my mom's Toyota drives me nuts whenever I drive it.  It's on anytime the cruise is ready to use, instead of only coming on when it's ready to be used.My Saturd has a tiny light on the steering wheel to indicate it's ready to use (it's in the on/off switch), but no dash light. I've had it long enough that I ignore the on/off switch light. Most of the Hondas I've owned had a light on the dash that would come on if you were actually using cruise, along with a small light on the dash switch to show it was ready to use, but the dash light was down with the switches (sunroof switch, dash light dimmer, etc) instead of in the cluster. I don't mind a light in the cluster coming on when I'm using cruise. Metal Geir Skogul posted:There's probably some regulation on cruise control that mandates a physical button, like how there was that mandate for the physical linkage between the brake pedal and the cruise control module (instead of relying on the brake light switch or something) that caused all of those trucks to spontaneously catch fire. Yeah uh I'm pretty sure that was mainly a Ford thing. Every car I've owned relied on the brake and clutch switches to kill cruise, except for my F-150.
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Mar 15, 2018 06:26
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The one time I dealt with car toys the amount of money they wanted to install equipment I already had was a complete loving joke. An actual shop later did the same work, and well, for 1/5th of the amount they wanted.
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Mar 15, 2018 07:01
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Well yeah... if you didn't buy the equipment from them, they're going to want a shitload more money (at any shop).  If you're buying it yourself, you'll be installing it yourself.Glad you found a shop that was reasonable about installation on stuff you bought on your own. That's more the exception than the rule, though. So long as the stock radio is a standard size, installing your own stereo isn't difficult. It's mostly just knowing how to use wire crimpers, and knowing how to take the dash apart. Metra and Scosche have you covered on pretty much everything you need for installation. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Mar 15, 2018 |
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Mar 15, 2018 07:11
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Thanks for the advice, I had been leaning to Car Toys since they offer specials with the installation (minus extra parts, so I'm expecting to get hit there). Good to know that I might want to avoid it if I'm bringing my own stuff though. Are there any particular notes to watch out for with either Alpine or Pioneer head units? Figure the screens will be junk on the lower end and I can write off extras like built-in navigation but if they're crash prone or screw up the audio then that might make me reconsider things. Also thanks for the tips regarding needing to drive it more, first time in a while I've had a commute this short so I was starting to wonder if something was wrong with the car.
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Mar 15, 2018 07:23
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Personally, I've owned several Alpine, Pioneer, Clarion, Kenwood, and JVC head units. All great brands so long as you avoid their bottom of the line stuff. Clarion has mostly moved into marine audio, they have very little (if any) car audio stuff now. JVC never caught on that much in the US, but they're good. That leaves Alpine, Kenwood, and Pioneer; Alpine's low end stuff, IMO, is better than Kenwood and Pioneer's low end stuff. I've had Sony too, but wasn't impressed. Then again, that was in high school (.... mid 1990s). 
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Mar 15, 2018 07:29
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spog posted:https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-car-hire  We're 9 people on the trip, did try to float the idea of something with three rows of seats plus something with two seats and a soft top, but nope. Going with two big Volvo or Mercedes wagons with excess cover from these guys unless the thread discloses some horror stories about that kind of insurance.
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Mar 15, 2018 10:22
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Personally, I've owned several Alpine, Pioneer, Clarion, Kenwood, and JVC head units. All great brands so long as you avoid their bottom of the line stuff. Clarion has mostly moved into marine audio, they have very little (if any) car audio stuff now. JVC never caught on that much in the US, but they're good. That leaves Alpine, Kenwood, and Pioneer; Alpine's low end stuff, IMO, is better than Kenwood and Pioneer's low end stuff. The oem head unit in my forester was made by Clarion. JVC and Kenwood are different brands from the same manufacturer.
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Mar 15, 2018 14:56
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opengl128 posted:Ready to do some third hand diagnosing? Ugh. Wife's 2013 Elantra, 1.8 auto, 55k miles. She said while waiting at a light it starting shaking violently like it wanted to stall, and make a squealing noise. The shaking went on for a few minutes until the light changed, then she drove the rest of the way without much issue. Heard back from the dealer yesterday. The first call I got from a clueless service woman was trying to blame my aftermarket oil filter. She said they don't fit as well and can move around and the oil can go to different places and cause issues.  . Went back and forth 10 times before I asked to speak to somebody else as nicely as I could manage. Second guy at least sounded like he knew what he was talking about, initially said it might just be normal GDI noise, but I explained I know what GDI sounds like and this sure as poo poo ain't that. He admittedly didn't even look at the car himself yet, so he said he'd go check it out with another tech.Got a call a few hours later, yup, getting a new engine under warranty. Looks like the 12-14's had some kind of manufacturing defect. Details are scant, but whatever. They did ask for my oil change records, which I do myself but thank god I keep the receipts from oil and filters and keep a log of the date and mileage when I change the oil. They submitted the claim and will let me know once an adjuster comes out. I really hope they don't give me a hard time over the oil change records. e: found the TSB: https://static.superservice.com/content/pdfs/HYW/bulletin/CA/14-20-002%20%20UD%20Engine%20Knocking%20%20V2.pdf opengl fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Mar 15, 2018 |
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Mar 15, 2018 15:38
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EightBit posted:The oem head unit in my forester was made by Clarion. JVC and Kenwood are different brands from the same manufacturer. JVC and Kenwood merged in 2008, so yeah, you're correct on that. I always forget about the merger, since everything I've owned from JVC was from before then. Clarion does a lot of OEM stuff, I had forgotten about that.
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Mar 15, 2018 20:32
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kid sinister posted:So my truck still has a weird idle, 1988 F150 5.0L.
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Mar 15, 2018 21:53
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ExecuDork posted:My truck (1997 Ranger 4.0L) also has a bad idle. It's gotta be a vacuum leak or something like that, what's a good way to test for that? Crack open the valve on a propane bottle and wave it around the engine bay, wait for the surge? I tried that before about a month ago, didn't get anything. I tried a can of starter fluid also, nothing. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I forget - have you tried another throttle body yet? I have not. Still, that propane or starter fluid test would catch that, right? My best idea so far is to block off the IAC by replacing its gasket with a piece of cardboard and trying to adjust the air screws on that adjuster plate again. That should tell me if the IAC is letting way too much air by. I'm starting to think I need to touch the forbidden screw.
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Mar 15, 2018 22:05
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In the process of installing a trailer wiring harness on my 2008 Prius, I removed a clear yellow plastic cover for that white rectangular thing above the battery positive terminal. Any idea what it might have been? Google is useless.
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Mar 15, 2018 22:29
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Josh Lyman posted:In the process of installing a trailer wiring harness on my 2008 Prius, I removed a clear yellow plastic cover for that white rectangular thing above the battery positive terminal. Any idea what it might have been? Google is useless. Its a big fuse.
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Mar 15, 2018 22:45
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ExecuDork posted:My truck (1997 Ranger 4.0L) also has a bad idle. It's gotta be a vacuum leak or something like that, what's a good way to test for that? Crack open the valve on a propane bottle and wave it around the engine bay, wait for the surge? Brake booster leak? I've never had luck with the propane trick before.
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Mar 15, 2018 22:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Brake booster leak? I've never had luck with the propane trick before. If I start it and let it run long enough that the rolling idle settles down, then pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster, what should I expect? I've done that with other cars for other reasons and they would surge and roll very strongly, if my truck doesn't do that does it mean the brake booster (or the hose) is the leak? Is the logic of testing vacuum lines similar to electrical, disconnect them one at a time and see what happens?
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Mar 15, 2018 23:00
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rdb posted:Its a big fuse.
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Mar 15, 2018 23:01
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Josh Lyman posted:The white box itself is the fuse? If I cover it with electrical tape I should be okay then, right? Yes and put the cover back on unless its broke. You don’t want that exposed to water or even water in the air. Technically its a fusible link. The only replacement I see for it calls it a battery mega fuse. rdb fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Mar 15, 2018 |
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Mar 15, 2018 23:14
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ExecuDork posted:My truck starts fine, but if I don't put some pressure on the gas pedal right away it will die. I have to keep it revving (usually 1500 rpm or so) for a few minutes; my normal procedure is to sing along with the music for the length of a typical song. At that point, I can ease off the pedal and the idle will roll between about 400 and about 900 rpm for one or two cycles, then sit at about 800-900. My parking space is awkward so I usually have to reverse-and-forward a few times to get out, and even after my broken rendition of "Hell's Bells" it will sometimes die in the time my right foot is off the throttle and on the brake (I'm not good at the 3-pedal shuffle; manual transmission). On a drive about a month ago it was fine for 45 minutes of highway driving and the engine was up at normal temperature but it died when I reversed to turn around on a dead-end street. Engine temperature matters, but isn't the only thing. I've cleaned the IAC valve and there was a sensor in the air intake pipe, just behind (i.e. closer to the engine) the filter that was not seated properly in its position, and these things *seem* to have helped but it's still not 100%. Obviously it depends on what the vacuum line's function is as to whether or not removing it for testing is going to improve things. Like don't expect to remove your vacuum ball and have your HVAC controls work properly. Similarly removing the FPR line will probably not make your truck run better. oh yeah... also check your vacuum ball. Those lines break and balls crack all the time. Also get yourself the factory EVTM for your Ranger. A good manual is a godsend. Edit: are you getting any engine codes?
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Mar 15, 2018 23:16
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rdb posted:Yes and put the cover back on unless its broke. You don’t want that exposed to water or even water in the air. I did overlap 2 long pieces of electrical tape to make a really wide piece to try to cover the sides. The plastic/upholstery lid that covers the battery compartment has a bunch of padding on the underside, so hopefully that will help absorb any excess humidity. What makes my actions extra dumb is that, when I ordered the harness a week ago, I specifically checked to see where the fuse was supposed to go (there's an inline socket) and apparently I forgot about that AND didn't notice the socket until it was too late.   
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Mar 16, 2018 |
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Mar 16, 2018 00:00
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I'd get a replacement fuse just for the peace of mind.
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Mar 16, 2018 01:30
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I drive mostly with cruise control. I have the Accel/Decel control buttons on my steering wheel. I take a lot of long highway trips lately, and it seems to make things easier. Are there any positive or negatives regarding how cruise control effects the longevity of your engine/trans? Does primarily using C.C. wear down on components somehow? Or is it actually harmless to the vehicle?
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Mar 16, 2018 01:42
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Dennis McClaren posted:I drive mostly with cruise control. I have the Accel/Decel control buttons on my steering wheel. I take a lot of long highway trips lately, and it seems to make things easier. I'm not aware of any studies, but your engine shouldn't care whether the throttle is being moved by your foot or a servo.
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Mar 16, 2018 01:54
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Supposedly it uses less gas.
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Mar 16, 2018 02:26
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edit n/m
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Mar 16, 2018 |
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Mar 16, 2018 03:07
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Yes, if it matches. Just FYI some of those big fuses are physically held in by bolts or just a general pain to remove.
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Mar 16, 2018 03:19
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rdb posted:Yes, if it matches. Just FYI some of those big fuses are physically held in by bolts or just a general pain to remove. So put the cover from the new fuse on the old fuse? If it’s in good condition, there’s no need to swap the fusible link itself.
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Mar 16, 2018 03:21
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Looking at some F350s at auction, what's the Ford diesel to particularly avoid, just the 6.0 or are there more?
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Mar 16, 2018 03:35
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At this point I would avoid all of them. The 7.3s are too old, have too many miles and too much wear. They aren’t anywhere near as powerful as a modern diesel, and the automatic transmissions were marginal. The 6.0s had some issues with electronics (FICM), EGR coolers, head gaskets, turbos, most of this has been worked out in the aftermarket. If you can find one thats been genuinely “bulletproofed” for a good price I would chance it. Repair bills on one of these are high but nothing like can happen on a 6.7. Power is better, still not great, and the transmission is good. 2005-2007 4x4s ride better than the 2003-2004s because ford changed the front suspension. I wouldn’t mind one of those if the price was right and the issues sorted. 6.4s were bad enough that ford decided to ditch International and make their own engines from now on. Most of the issues come from emissions equipment, so if you remove all of it some of its issues are resolved. It still has other mechanical issues and repairs are pricey. These also tend to be a bit short lived and highly abused (i think there is a tuner that is +300hp on a stock motor), so just generally beware. The 6.7 is ok until it isn’t and then your hosed. Its highly susceptible to damage from water in the fuel. Repair bills from this can stretch into the 10,000 range at a dealer. Parts alone are probably $5-6k. 2011s have issues with glow plugs breaking off and destroying the engine. Emissions equipment is generally OK. If you can swing it a 2015+ is supposedly the most sorted. If my budget was low I would buy a 2006-2007 LBZ duramax, 2005-07 bulletproofed powerstroke or any cummins in decent shape with cash left over to build the trans. If I had more money a 2014+ ram 3500 cummins/aisin trans. Second choice would be a 2015+ powerstroke or 2017+ duramax. rdb fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 16, 2018 |
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Mar 16, 2018 03:50
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Thanks for the rundown, it's amazing how much of the 6.0 has been worked out. Seems like it had a lot of problems that I can't believe made it off the drawing board, but which were consequently also pretty straightforward to remedy. Lol at those fuel system parts prices on the 6.7, I've seen smaller parts bills on engines with better than 6.7 per CYLINDER. Have to put a drat purifier in the bed. I'd like a Cummins but they seem to command huge premiums even in utterly disintegrated or redneckulated trucks, kind of like Toyota trucks do. Also a special place in hell for people who use ridiculous tuners
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Mar 16, 2018 04:17
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