|
Eletriarnation posted:Apollo Lake NUCs hit every item on the list. How about something like this that appears to have everything already in it? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076D76Z7L/
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 02:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:26 |
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:How about something like this that appears to have everything already in it? i have pretty much the same one. you're going to be hard pressed to get many people here to recommend a cherry trail cpu on anyhing i only bought it because i use it to run a znc server and irc bot off of and it doesnt really matter what specs that runs on
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 02:33
|
|
|
Careful Drums posted:I bought a used laptop with an SSD in it. I'd like to find out how much life the SSD has before it goes 'read-only' or whatever, so I can decide whether or not to replace it. Is there any way to find out (other than the hard way) ? Most SSDs seem to either die way before they run out of writes (some other kind of failure) or haven't run out yet because most are good for 20+ years. You can check how much life the disk thinks it has with Crystal Disk Info. When you run it your disk will show up as Good or Caution or Bad with a % under it which is what the disk thinks its condition is. My 500 gig 850 EVO from a couple of years back is still at 100% with 30,751 GB written in 881 Days. https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ The standard edition lacks anime.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 03:00
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ The only version worth downloading is the anime one 
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 03:18
|
|
|
Statutory Ape posted:i have pretty much the same one. you're going to be hard pressed to get many people here to recommend a cherry trail cpu on anyhing Hmm, fair enough. By chance have you ever run video on it and can report how it is? I really just want something that would only be running a video stream and some browser tabs, and I was hoping it would be capable of at least doing that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 03:52
|
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:Hmm, fair enough. By chance have you ever run video on it and can report how it is? I really just want something that would only be running a video stream and some browser tabs, and I was hoping it would be capable of at least doing that. I haven't tested video but it's not very snappy honestly. To tell you the level of hardware I was initially trying to go with, I had first tried it on a raspberry pi. Cherry Trail should genuinely be avoided for anybody that actually uses their stuff frequently imo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 04:19
|
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:How about something like this that appears to have everything already in it? It'll work, but it has HDMI 1.4 so 4K output will be limited to 30Hz. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Mar 22, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 15:46
|
|
|
Eletriarnation posted:It'll work, but it has HDMI 1.4 so 4K output will be limited to 30Hz. Given that I'm not gaming with it, I think 30Hz will be fine if I ever end up with a 4k monitor attached to it. Here's the Apollo Lake version, anything obviously wrong with it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MJXH5N
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 20:19
|
|
|
You’re not going to like 30hz when just navigating an OS, trust me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2018 21:59
|
|
|
kloa posted:You’re not going to like 30hz when just navigating an OS, trust me. Yeah, might as well drop the extra $50 and just build a good NUC. Thanks for the advice everyone
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 03:51
|
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:Yeah, might as well drop the extra $50 and just build a good NUC. Thanks for the advice everyone NUCs have probably matured a bit from when I had one, but I moved over to a mini atx based Celeron a year ago in a Thermaltake Core v1 case. Sure it takes up a little more footprint than a NUC, but it's been a great media PC that has never had a hiccup. Even with the stock fan it's nearly dead silent as it's never really taxed. Has heaps of drive bays to boot if you do require a lot of storage as well. It cost me a around $450aud, but also affords me the ability to upgrade at a much lower cost down the line. But if space is an issue you can't beat a NUC, they really are insanely small.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 08:08
|
|
|
Yeah, I have a mini-ITX Celeron N3150 board from ASRock and have been really pleased with it. It's tempting to try to replace my Core 2 NAS/Plex server for power savings but I'm already using it as an HTPC, I'm not sure if it would be fast enough, and I already have the Core 2 system idling around 50W including the drives so I'm not sure how much lower is feasible. The other issue I notice with those prebuilt mini-PCs based on Cherry/Bay Trail in addition to lack of HDMI 2.0 is that a lot of them come with only 32GB of built in storage. 32GB is perfectly fine for Linux but it's pretty much an absolute lower bound for Windows 10 and tighter than I would want to deal with even as someone who usually doesn't mind making such compromises. With 32GB you basically have to keep the system disk entirely clean to even have enough space to install major OS updates, so even 64GB is a huge step up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 15:58
|
|
|
You can plug an external drive in to do the update. Update will automatically suggest using it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 18:15
|
|
|
I noticed a lot of brands I had never heard of when looking for small SSDs. I was going to go with a 64GB which I saw going for ~$30, but ended up getting a 120GB ADATA for ~$40 since I didn't care too much about it dying at some point, and it was the cheapest I could go for 1 day delivery
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 19:02
|
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:I have a gaming PC with two monitors, and I've found that when I run video on my second monitor at the max 60 fps, it messes with my games running at 144 fps on the main monitor. Adding Chrome to the mix for looking things up screws with this even more. I'd like to get a mini pc to only run video / websites on (no gaming), something larger than a stick PC with the following: Before you do this try running the second monitor off your integrated video
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 20:40
|
|
|
 donated my old gaming laptop to my sister. she's been complaining about how slow it runs. we had the harddrive changed out as the laptop refused to boot and we figured the HDD had conked out. the slow issues are still persisting. she sent me this, and the two things I've noticed that seem a little sketchy are: 1) the relatively high temps on the CPU cores, for a relatively low load 2) pretty much 0% load on the GPU, yet 100% fan speed on the GPU what can we do to try and figure out what is causing problems for her? games run like poo poo, yet when I had this laptop new, it could run Battlefield and Guild Wars at high settings, without skipping a beat.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 22:19
|
|
|
What is a cheap(in Canada) external drive to grab? I don’t need anything big or fancy, like 250gb would be enough.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 22:34
|
|
|
Jago posted:You can plug an external drive in to do the update. Update will automatically suggest using it. Well it's about time. Remember when you would be told there's not enough space on C: and meanwhile you've got like half a terabyte free on D:, on the same physical disk even? "Sorry, need more space!" 
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 22:56
|
|
|
Q8ee posted:1) the relatively high temps on the CPU cores, for a relatively low load Unless it's actually a huge laptop, it's probably only got one fan with a heatpipe connecting both the CPU and GPU to an anemic little heatsink. Notice the lack of CPU fan in that picture. Is the fan clogged with dust? Or is it being suffocated by having the intake covered? (Easy to do when you use your laptop on your lap.)
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2018 23:02
|
|
|
Bob NewSCART posted:What is a cheap(in Canada) external drive to grab? I don’t need anything big or fancy, like 250gb would be enough. Canadian prices seem a little high, but the smallest portable drives these days are generally 1TB: https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Expansion-Portable-External-STEA1000400/dp/B00TKFEEAS/ https://www.amazon.ca/Western-Digital-Passport-Drive-USB-3-0-WDBYNN0010BBK-WESN/dp/B01LQQHI8I/ If you really want something smaller you'd probably need to buy an enclosure and a separate disk. It would save you much money. For example: https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Barracuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST500LM030/dp/B01M0AAA6X/ https://www.amazon.ca/ORICO-2588US3-Screw-Less-2-5-inch-Enclosure/dp/B00IWOZAAQ/
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 00:29
|
|
|
Fallom posted:Before you do this try running the second monitor off your integrated video Yeah... Integrated video... Would be nice if my motherboard had that. Built the NUC today. Everything's great other than when I go from either audio output on the NUC to either line in / mic on my desktop (to send to whatever output I'm using) there's a loud high pitched screeching. Further complicating finding the source is that if I plug my headphones into the NUC, it sounds fine. If I plug my phone into my computer using the new 3.5mm cable I bought, it also sounds fine. What should I do next to troubleshoot this?
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 00:35
|
|
|
Geemer posted:Unless it's actually a huge laptop, it's probably only got one fan with a heatpipe connecting both the CPU and GPU to an anemic little heatsink. Notice the lack of CPU fan in that picture. It's a very beefy Sager gaming laptop (basically a company that puts together laptops from various components, kinda like CyberPower but for laptops). IIRC it has quite a lot of vents, but they're thin and run along the edges, and then a big fan on the bottom. Will ensuring the laptop gets enough air circulation help resolve the slow issues my sister is having? I might just buy her one of those laptop stands with fans on them that help increase airflow. 
Qubee fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Mar 24, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 00:45
|
|
|
There will be a point in temperature where the hardware will throttle down. I don't think that's as low as 60C, but I'm not sure
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 01:09
|
|
|
You may also need to reapply thermal paste. The OEM white zinc oxide or heat pad stuff will dry out given long enough.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 01:21
|
|
|
Bob NewSCART posted:What is a cheap(in Canada) external drive to grab? I don’t need anything big or fancy, like 250gb would be enough. You can buy 256 GB flash drives for like $80-$100 Canadian on Amazon.ca, or spend just $30-$50 canadian for 128 GB drives. So just look for flash drives at that sort of storage size.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 01:32
|
|
|
bah, i misread the requirements... bad post.
Volguus fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Mar 24, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2018 03:09
|
|
|
I need to replace a antenna for this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB45SI4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 do I need to buy a specific antenna? how do I figure out what kind of antenna it uses?
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 06:20
|
|
|
Odd Mutant posted:I need to replace a antenna for this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB45SI4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Most of them are screw on wifi antennas that use RP-SMA connectors. I don't know if you'll find one that looks exactly the same but finding one that functions is pretty straightforward: https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Power-TL-WDN3800-Tl-WN8200ND-Directional/dp/B00O5G8M1E/ https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00XEFWXGW/
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 07:01
|
|
|
I want to replace the HDD in my friend's laptop with an SSD, but the hard drive bracket that's holding it to the motherboard is secured to the current HDD with what looks to be a warranty-voiding sticker. I'm trying to find a replacement bracket so I don't potentially void the warranty by reusing the same one, but I haven't been successful. Does anyone have any tips for how to find a compatible bracket or what, specifically, a little white sticker over a bracket screw with a red exclamation mark (or some similar warning sign, I forgot to write it down) on it means.. Is this actually a legitimate sticker or can I safely ignore it without compromising the warranty, assuming I don't do any damage while swapping out parts? I'm in Germany and the laptop was also bought here. The laptop is an ASUS S510UA--BR124T and the bracket has X510 HDD BKT stamped on it - I'm assuming then that all (\s)510's from ASUS will share a common bracket, but my search results don't seem to support this theory. e: Ok, friend doesn't care about warranty, I guess I'll just swap it out (provided the screws don't prove stronger than my lovely screwdrivers) Sulla Faex fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Mar 25, 2018 |
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 12:34
|
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:Built the NUC today. Everything's great other than when I go from either audio output on the NUC to either line in / mic on my desktop (to send to whatever output I'm using) there's a loud high pitched screeching. Further complicating finding the source is that if I plug my headphones into the NUC, it sounds fine. If I plug my phone into my computer using the new 3.5mm cable I bought, it also sounds fine. What should I do next to troubleshoot this? So I've found that it's something to do with the USB switch and my keyboard. When I unplug one of the USB switch <> computer plugs the noise goes away. When I unplug my keyboard from the USB switch, or either turn completely off or completely on the key LED lights (having them dimmed causes the noise), the noise goes away. Given that the computers are both connected via this USB switch and 3.5mm audio cable, I guess the combination of my keyboard and a cable loop is causing the problem, but I'm not sure exactly how. Is this something I could fix with a different USB switch or keyboard, or a better solution than just plugging in the NUC to the line in on my desktop? Here's the hardware in question: USB switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM Keyboard: Logitec G710+
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 20:50
|
|
|
Drunk Badger posted:So I've found that it's something to do with the USB switch and my keyboard. When I unplug one of the USB switch <> computer plugs the noise goes away. When I unplug my keyboard from the USB switch, or either turn completely off or completely on the key LED lights (having them dimmed causes the noise), the noise goes away. Given that the computers are both connected via this USB switch and 3.5mm audio cable, I guess the combination of my keyboard and a cable loop is causing the problem, but I'm not sure exactly how. You're getting a ground loop between the devices causing noise to come out of the audio equipment: https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/solving-computer-audio-problems There's a lot of ground loop isolaters for a/v stuff but I'm not sure about USB. Maybe if you isolate the audio the USB won't be enough to cause issues: https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_s...d=1H02WRAU3VUI8
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2018 22:50
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:You're getting a ground loop between the devices causing noise to come out of the audio equipment: Makes sense, I'll order one of those and see what it does. If it doesn't, I'll just get a separate keyboard/mouse for the NUC
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 05:01
|
|
|
I bought a new thinkpad t480, and twice now it's done a thing where the screen goes black except for a few lines of static at the top and squares of static that blink on and off on the rest of the screen. The first time it did this I simply held the power button to turn it off and it worked again after that. This time though I did the same to turn it off, tried to turn it back on and now it's stuck in a cycle where the power button along with the keyboard lights turns on for a second or two, then goes black for about five seconds, and turns on again for a second or two. What the gently caress is wrong with it? Removing the battery and holding the power button down for 10 or 20 seconds caused it to stop cycling, but turning it on again it does the same thing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 03:45
|
|
|
icantfindaname posted:I bought a new thinkpad t480, and twice now it's done a thing where the screen goes black except for a few lines of static at the top and squares of static that blink on and off on the rest of the screen. The first time it did this I simply held the power button to turn it off and it worked again after that. This time though I did the same to turn it off, tried to turn it back on and now it's stuck in a cycle where the power button along with the keyboard lights turns on for a second or two, then goes black for about five seconds, and turns on again for a second or two. What the gently caress is wrong with it? Removing the battery and holding the power button down for 10 or 20 seconds caused it to stop cycling, but turning it on again it does the same thing. Open it up and re-seat any wires and cables first. Cuz that screen issue especially sounds like a loose connection's somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 03:59
|
|
|
fishmech posted:Open it up and re-seat any wires and cables first. Cuz that screen issue especially sounds like a loose connection's somewhere. I removed the battery connector to the motherboard and that stopped the lights cycling (also the CMOS battery but that did not affect the cycling), now the power button appears to work (IE it stays lit and is not cycling) but the screen is completely dead. I connected it via HDMI to an external monitor and there's also nothing but a black screen The monitor connections on the motherboard are wrapped in cloth so you can't disconnect them easily   What an absolute piece of poo poo icantfindaname fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Mar 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 05:54
|
|
|
Welp, resetting the memory fixed it. And I only scratched up/damaged the case very slightly
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 06:37
|
|
|
Has anyone with a Asus motherboard with built in Wireless AC (Qualcomm) had trouble getting it to connect via AC ? Instead it's connecting at 5ghz Wireless N. I don't see any settings or apps to control the connection preference. This is Windows 10 Home with an Asus strix z270i motherboard.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 07:19
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Has anyone with a Asus motherboard with built in Wireless AC (Qualcomm) had trouble getting it to connect via AC ? Instead it's connecting at 5ghz Wireless N. I don't see any settings or apps to control the connection preference. Have you looked at the adapter's properties sheet in devmgr, under the Advanced tab?
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 21:25
|
|
|
Hipster_Doofus posted:Have you looked at the adapter's properties sheet in devmgr, under the Advanced tab? Thanks, I hadn't seen those settings before. The only setting that seems applicable might be "Roaming aggressiveness" which can be set to 1 through 5, and defaults to 3.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2018 22:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 21:26 |
|
|
jonathan posted:Thanks, I hadn't seen those settings before. The only setting that seems applicable might be "Roaming aggressiveness" which can be set to 1 through 5, and defaults to 3. Yeah that's no help. I was hoping there was a setting for choosing which standard(s) to use, i.e. b only, b/g, b/g/n, n only, n/a, ac only, and so forth. Most adapters I've encountered let you do this. The variety and specificity of choices varies, but every AC-capable adapter I've encountered lets you choose "AC only pls." Sometimes it's in the form of "disable [band(s)], like on one of mine I force 5GHz by selecting "disable b/g" because it doesn't do n over 2.4. It's pathetic how woefully incapable mfgr's utilities tend to be. I'm sure there has to be something 3rd party out there for this but I've never needed such so I can't point you anywhere. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2018 21:07
|
|